meepmeepmayer

Hi! It's a new user thing, will be gone soon.

Good choice for a wheel to learn on!

The GT Pro and GT Pro+ are outwardly the same, right? I mean the size of the battery casings. Is the case partly empty on the GT Pro? It can hold 240 cells (GT Pro+), but only holds 160 (GT Pro)? Or are are there different dimensions somewhere?

Mods say: Guys, you are staying on topic, right? (Should the speed measurement discussion be split off? It pertains to the GT Pro, but also would work as its own thread. Not sure what is better.)

The thing I would be worried about is if water got into the battery packs. That's a real (fire and failure) danger. If you can definitely rule that out, you can see if a new board helps or just the charge port got loose or whatnot. In principle, easy to repair. But if you aren't sure of your batteries, that will be an issue always hanging over the wheel.

Good answer! This hints toward it being 4p 2400Wh. With 2p, 168V would make more sense.

They can, but they tend to avoid it. That would be (in my opinion) the best option. But the Blitz seems to be a 134V wheel?

134V wheels come in multiples of 600Wh. So either it's not 4p (which one might want for "performance" or "racing"), or it's at least 2400Wh like the Master. Are the 50S cells good enough to go 2p or something like that?

Higher voltage would mean having to go to 2700Wh or 3000Wh, so less light weight I guess?

Yea those big daytime running lights were great! Best feature of the RS! They need to come back. I'm also not 100% happy with the all-metal builds. Plastic can be great - and lighter, and cheaper/easier to replace when damaged.

That's what they get for not allowing you to see the forum properly

It's going to cost more than the Lynx or the Sherman-S. And with how popular the few LeaperKim models are, I'm not expecting any price decreases for the existing wheels. So... 4700? 4999?

It is official. I just think there is very little overlap between the people here and there. Or at least it barely gets mentioned here. Maybe just because I don't use the Discord? Anyways, I think Discord as a knowledge database of sorts doesn't work. It's IRC but new - for chatting and whatnot. Nice if you want to ask someone something. Sucks for persistent information and looking up specific things.

Was the tire on the ground when you turned it on? If not, lifting (and subtly tilting) the wheel will make it try to correct that, but since it can't do that off the ground, it rapidly spins up until it shuts down. The anti spin button doesn't work (safety against accidental presses while riding) unless the wheel is almost still. If it was off the ground, it just shut off after a second or two. So if it was off the ground, it worked exactly as it is supposed to - trying to balance, and then shutting down when that doesn't work. That happens really fast.

This forum has pretty much nothing to do with the Discord group (or the Facebook group, for that matter) other than being started by the same guy. Not sure what's going on on Discord.

Looks exactly like one expects a Leaperkim wheel to look.

This is the one to look out for then.

That would be 2700Wh, 4000Wh, and 5400Wh if they are 151V wheels. Not that I would complain about such battery sizes. Just the prices, probably

The Lynx is 4p, and the Sherman L 6p. So an upgraded 151V Patton would be 2700Wh, like the Lynx. Basically a baby Lynx. Why not! With some weight savings, I also think a moderate to no weight increase is possible.

Is there a release date for the F22? If not, any guesses when it will be available?

A bigger battery Lynx. Pretty much exactly what they should offer, as in "makes sense and will sell". I wish they would offer more wheels, though. How about Patton but with higher voltage and big battery (3000+Wh). Not everyone wants a 20 inch tire. Try another Abrams! I never understood why there wasn't an Abrams-S, for example.

I wonder if it will be a Sherman-S with 151V and 3330Wh or 4000Wh. 168V? I don't think they'd release a wheel without suspension, and if it's called Sherman, what else might it be? Maybe L stands for "large" and it will have a bigger tire, so Abrams-S but they don't want to use the Abrams name?

You can "mention" people by typing @ and then begin typing their name and choose them from the menu that appears. This way they get a specific notification.

No! The general consensus is, higher voltage is great, with pretty much just one real downside (less battery size flexibility, and doesn't work for small batteries). Historically, it's been a real improvement, totally different to the pointless motor wattage numbers. Voltage directly scales with the max speed of any given motor. If you ran your Z10 at 134V instead of 58.8V, its motor would run 134.4/58.8 = 32/14 = 2.3 times faster. The V14's motor is built for more torque (done typically with more/stronger magnets and windings) instead of the higher max speed you could get from its higher voltage. That's why it isn't 2.3 times faster. It would rather have more oomph at low speed/better acceleration. That's a design choice. High speed and good acceleration/zippyness is always a tradeoff with electric motors. Choose one to lose the other, so you have to find a balance. There used to be HT (high torque) and HS (high speed) motors and you could choose which variant you wanted on your wheel (goes back up till the V12). Higher voltages allow for wheels that are fast and have good acceleration. No more choice necessary. Higher voltages are great! They can solve a real problem. The one downside is: a high voltage performance wheel, meaning good acceleration and speed, must have a big battery. Voltages are achieved by having a certain number of battery cells in groups. For higher voltages, that number increases (e.g. 14 for the Z10 and 32 for the V14). So your overall battery size must be a multiple of a big number, giving less flexibility with different battery sizes. Additionally, your peak acceleration/torque/zippyness is roughly determined by how many of these groups you have, and you need a certain number of them as a minimum if you want trustworthy performance. So you get a certain minimum battery size if you want a performance wheel. For 134V, with the typical cells used, your battery will be a multiple of 600Wh (that's what 32 cells contain), and you typically need 4 of those groups, giving 2400Wh. Just like the V14. With 168V, you end up with 3000Wh. Bigger battery, bigger weight, bigger wheel, costs more money, etc. You couldn't have the same performance with any smaller battery. That's why all the shiny new top wheels are big and heavy and expensive. Not just for bragging rights, it has to be like this. That's why small wheels like the mten or Falcon or even mid-range wheels like the V11 and S16 don't go for such high voltages. They limit their top speed to be cheaper, lighter, smaller, more reasonable. A way out of this is by using higher discharge battery cells. They allow for fast and zippy and light/small wheels. We're not there yet. - The one objective number to look at is battery size (in Wh). That's just an objective measure of how much battery you have and how much range you get. Everything else is very hard to use for comparisons. And luckily, everything else is good enough nowadays (including voltage), so in my opinion one can happily ignore any reasonable sounding specs and just listen to what people say about which wheel rides how in real life.

Watts mean nothing. Just ignore these numbers. They don't tell you anything useful or let you deduct properties of a wheel. Motor wattage is given by manufacturers because "big number = good" and people believe higher wattage means "more power" or "more speed" or whatever. Nobody here knows how they come up with these numbers, how they are defined in the first place, if they are just making stuff up, etc. How fast and powerful a wheel is (and more importantly, feels) can only be reliably found out by test riding it, or hearing other riders' impressions. The motor wattage numbers mean nothing. They are just a sales gimmick.