meepmeepmayer

That's a great practice wheel. Just don't assume the V5 is all EUCs have to offer. A "real" wheel with power is on another level and worth it.

It's just so nice, and I never even touched or never rode a Falcon! A Falcon with 3000+Wh would be my dream wheel. These big ass tire, slow ass acceleration wheels are not for me.

98.6V really is a little low. Not something-wrong-with-it, but not good either. Next time check right after charging (green light + keep charger in for an extra hour or so, and keep the wheel still, riding will drop the voltage naturally) and see what it says then. Might be interesting Anyways, we are talking a few miles (which is something, not nothing) range difference, so you're not losing a huge amount. But especially for a smaller battery, every mile counts. I hope you can se a higher voltage some time.

Pretty sure the app has an extra setting to switch to miles. I don't think it transfers from what you set on the wheel (no experience with the Inmotion app, but I don't think it's that nice, is it?).

@Puzz Yep, I didn't say your wheel is defective or giving you false info; just that you can check for a possible explanation. Simply open some app and see what voltage it shows you when the wheel is fully charged (when the charger has stopped charging, just keep it in after the green light for an extra hour or so.). If it's 100.8V or close, that's good. If it's notably different, get back to us here

As it's from an insurance, maybe they just googled for the issue and you were the first thing (and possibly only thing) they found. I guess I shouldn't suspect fraud if it's just incompetence/lazyness (still negligent to just ask you for money, basically just by association).

Dang you're right! 900Wh makes no sense for a 84V wheel (applies both to V12 and Falcon). Thanks! I guess I thought "well it's not super high voltage" and ended up at 84V instead of thinking about it

I guess in the US this is not attempted fraud? Because it sure sounds like it to me! I guess they just try and see if you pay anyways?? Lucky for you this has nothing to do with you. Also, I wonder how they can diagnose the RS so precisely after the fire, it looks pretty burnt.

The Falcon has exactly half the battery of the V12. A smaller battery means the voltage drops more when stressed, so the wheel will maybe beep more early/more easily when at low charge. So based on this, a fun+usable range of maybe 45% (instead of 50% for just the half battery size) of the V12's range is a reasonable expectation for the Falcon (assuming your speed is roughly the same). Do you get that? You may also overestimate your V12's range if you never rode it down until it beeped at you. Don't trust any battery percentages or "miles left" claims by an app too much. You may come home with "50%" left on the V12, but in reality you may be (quite a bit) over 50% of the range you would have gotten. In addition, you can check if your Falcon charges to the full voltage (should be 100V). Don't believe any percentages, these are just computed from the voltage, only voltage counts. What is your voltage after the charging has stopped? I think there have been some issues with Begode wheels lately where the charging stops a bit too early, this can eat quite a lot of usable range. Not sure if the Falcon is affected, but here's a video by Marty about the general issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIPYYW9Cwis . The bar display dropping right after you start could be a hint towards that, so I would definitely check if your "full" (after charging is over) voltage really is 100V.

This is a neat question! If I walk around with a big bottle of nitroglycerin, and someone accidentally walks into me and the entire thing explodes, we hit each other with no fault of my own, but I'm still to blame for the entire thing because I ran around with volatile explosives. Same idea for cars. The big and heavy car is often the problem. If a crash wasn't nearly as bad (or would not have happened) if the car was a bicycle or something, then you have good reason to blame the car regardless of any other circumstances (like who is "at fault" or whatever). Funnily enough, this is still a more nuanced position than the unofficially official one, where nothing is ever called a car crash unless only cars are involved (so there's nobody to deflect the blame and negative associations to). We all know what the majority of "bicycle accidents" and "escooter accidents" etc. have in common. So I vote your example is still a car crash

It should work now. Press the three dots in the top right corner of your post to "edit" it. And you should be able to post images now (though I think you could already do that, as the original post has images - not sure what went on there). Please tell if something else doesn't work as you need it

This forum is about discussing electric unicycles (and other things) in a way so people get something from it. If you have some (imagined) personal frustrations/weird political fixations, please vent them somewhere else, they contribute nothing here.

Mods say: Please stay halfway on topic (a new wheel from a new company, with virtually zero information about it right now) and don't stray too far away into whatever else, especially into personal conversations. Thanks

Such a Patton 2/Patton V2, maybe even with 151V upgrade (2700Wh instead of 2220), would be sweet!

Heyo, I made this its own topic, I hope you don't mind (I can put it back in the T4 thread if you want, just say so). On your question: yes, the T4 (there's also the T4 Pro, a slightly upgraded T4, and T4 Max, a kind of version 2 (my words) of the T4) is a great first wheel, it has everything and is not crazy expensive like so many others. If it appeals to you, why not get it!

The trick is to be relaxed. If the wheel wobbles, let it buckle under you and don't try to grip it, but let it do its thing until it gets over it. You get wobbles when your stance is not relaxed, e.g. when going down hills and you're tense, because then you more-than-usual "grip" the wheel in one way or another (meaning your feet prevent it wrong wobbling freely until it calms down on its own, and then the wheel wobbling starts making you lose balance). What also helps against wobbles is going into some other somewhat powerful movement (like going into a turn or some other one-sided move like weaving), because that just gives the wobbling wheel some other input that makes it do something else and therefore stop wobbling. All you need is experience (because then you will be more relaxed in all kinds of situations) and this will go away, but it helps to consciously go for being relaxed (e.g. good and comfortable foot positioning on the pedals!!) and to know what to do when some wobbles start. Think of the wheel as a bucking bull that you need to calm down before it throws you off. Basically, your job as a rider is dampen the wheel's wobbling - it always does that, and how far it gets is up to you. Will it eventually throw you off, or will you get it to knock it off and be the boss? That's how I think about that

This goes away with practice and improved riding technique. You new riders are expecting to learn way too quickly Think of wobbles like this: The faster you go, the more violent will any ground imperfections hit your wheel, trying to make it wobble. Every rider can compensate for a certain strength of incoming wobble attempts from the evil ground, and that speed gets higher with experience and better stance. As a consequence of these facts: Every rider has a certain "wobble speed" where speed wobbles appear, and with more experience and a better stance, that speed increases. The trick is to be good enough so your wobble speed is above the speed your wheel can go or that you would normally ride. Then you're free of wobbles (until the ground really takes a dislike to you - technically a surprise pothole and a crash is just a real bad wobble that you couldn't compensate). That's my mental model for wobbles, and I think it works quite well. I literally had bad days (where you're tense and unrelaxed) and good days (where you're standing on the wheel super relaxed and everything just flows), and noticed being more wobbly on the bad days. Anyways, again: practice and good technique/stance (be relaxed!) will fix the wobbles. That just takes time to learn. (Exact foot positioning can make a huge difference for a relaxed vs unrelaxed stance, so experiment and adjust.) This is a great tip. If you're wobbling, don't grip the wheel (that makes everything worse), but let it freely buckle under you until it stops being dumb. Some strong one-sided input (like braking into a turn) can also help because it powerfully gets the wheel out of its wobble mode and into some other movement.

As I see it, the order of importance is: wrist guards (absolutely) >>> full face helmet (yea, not much to discuss here) > knee pads (pretty good idea) > everything else (optional/depending on personal views/depends on specific type of riding). Just picture how you would fall on a EUC to get an idea on what is important. You fall forward and would hit with the hands and then also the knees (if the fall is comparably slow) or the face (if it comes rapidly for some reason and you can't lift your hands in time). So wrist guards absolutely, and knee pads are probably something you don't want to ever regret not wearing as well if (don't ask me how I know). The helmet is great . The jacket, too. Don't worry about that jacket rating, I don't know of a single back injury from EUCs. That's just not like you would fall. A motorcycle jacket is nice, though, mainly to feel good about the danger of road rash in a crash. It might be the difference between "nothing happened to me" and "nothing dangerous happened, but ouch". Also acts as a kind of elbow guard (which some might want), just easier to put on and off. If you're wearing more than a shirt, that more might as well be a proper protective jacket like yours. - As for the wrist guards and knee pads: any cheap versions will do, so it's not like you must pay a lot here (pretty sure this applies to all safety gear - having something is 90% of the deal). I would say better ones are mainly for comfort when wearing them, unless you plan on some extreme riding. The point of wrist guards is to slide, not stop you and move that all that energy into your body (hands, shoulders) - so they should have hard plastic sliding plates. The point of knee pads is to cushion the initial impact, but more importantly not slide off your knee then, so they slide on the ground while your knees are safe from abrasion.

I think it's great to have different EUCs to try and compare (and learn riding on). This will be just so much more telling than just having one model and being like "that's how EUCs are". Also both Extreme and Falcon are great wheels. I think this combination is a great introduction to wheels. They can always get more later

Here's the video as embed

Yes!! Sweet, sweet range! Do you know when they started this? Presumably a long time ago already, but I never truly heard of this before.

Pretty sure they will. All these (like built-in GPS+tracking) sound like general new Inmotion QOL features. And even if not, audio sharing can be a great lock-in feature. If your friends have an E25, which beginner wheel are you going to buy? Something else, or the one that allows you to confuse pedestrians with synchronized moo sounds coming from your group outing? The possibilities are endless (and pointless, but that never stopped anybody). It's the iMessage of EUCs! "I have to buy an E25/Inmotion because al my friends have one...". They could just display "Locked and GPS-tracked" on the display (is there a display?) or something like that, at least briefly whenever the switched-off wheel is moved, plus some beeps/alarms then. Surely such a mode could be added by IM and enabled by the rider. Anyways, who would not use a bike lock on a EUC left alone somewhere? What monster would leave a EUC alone in the first place?

I guess some explanation of the King Song models can't hurt (don't focus only on them though, or get confused, or remember them): The 16S has 16 inch tire. The 16B/16C/16D are older versions of it. The S indeed stands for sport, not that it matters for any other model designation. (Similarly there were the 14 inch 14B/14C/14D, with the final 14M following.) The 18L has an 18 inch tire. Everybody except King Song knew right away its battery was too small, so they then hastily released a version with a bigger battery that everyone bought instead, the 18XL. The L means nothing. Then came the 16X, which has a "16 inch" tire (called so because it has same rim size as the actual 16 inch tires), but the tire is 3 inches wide (the standard nowadays that everyone uses) so real diameter is closer to 18 inches. The X means nothing. All those are really old wheels by now. The more recent King Song models are the S18 (first model with suspension) with an "18 inch tire" (more like 20 in reality due to 3 inch width). Then came the S22 (same tire size, higher range/performance), S19 (still same tire size, kind of an S18 successor, neat but too expensive for what it is) and S16 (smaller tire size like that of the 16X, fantastic first wheel for any beginner). The F22 (same tire size as S18/S22/S19) is announced as a more performant/range-y thing, which I guess the F stands for (at least this once). - It's hard to make a recommendation for your budget. It's not enough for an S16/S16 Pro (it's got everything and is just such a nice recommendation for a beginner who doesn't want crazy performance or pay A LOT), but older models sold at around €1500 are overpriced in my opinion (like a 16S or Inmotion V10F or who knows, not sure what current prices are, but they used to be overpriced imho). A used wheel may be great if you can find the right one. Maybe just ask for something under 1500 in the UK on the Private Sales forum here. I think it's best if you look for some options and post them with their price, then we can tell you whether it's a good buy or not, and hopefully approach a good choice for you. If you can wait a bit (you probably don't want to, we all know how waiting feels after you learned EUCs exist!), the upcoming Inmotion E25 just had the tiniest bit of info released, and might very well be a modern "budget" model (aka closer to 1000 than 2000) that isn't old-ass non-suspension possibly-overpriced. edit: I just googled for some UK dealers, and many are strange (barely any models). Not sure what is going on there.

For the record, we mods wouldn't just remove a post like this. People can "hide" (= remove) their own posts, though, for whatever reason they may have. But we are certainly not the leak police or validity police or anything like that!

What tire size is that?