meepmeepmayer

How do you even change the tire/fix a flat on the S19? How much do you have to disassemble to get the motor out? Because any bit of disassembly looks like it definitely will not be fun with this wheel! I still think this will sell. It looks cool and fancy, and is good enough spec-wise so many people will eat the price (the V13 also seems quite popular despite the price that made people wonder who would even buy it).

Please stay on topic guys

PMs works now.

Sorry, I don't know. If (if) it's always the same motor, the board version should not matter, but I never followed all these Master versions and don't know if everything is compatible. Feel free to make a thread about it, people here will know every detail you could ask for.

This is literally nothing. My wheel has sat for months, it still works, and there is no reason it should not. Not the cause of your issue. - If the tire is "locked" (very hard to rotate, not merely "bumpy", that's normal and just the magnets being magnets), that means there is a short somewhere. That can be between the motor power cables, the power distribution board maybe (not sure - the small thing where the batteries and charge ports plug into), or the main control board ("board", with the mosfets and all). Or any other place (is there any other place? I don't know one.). Most likely, your board is bad. That's the standard cause of "wheel behaves strange suddenly". It can be subtly broken (without an obvious blown mosfet or such), so you cannot necessarily see anything. If the motor isn't actually shorted (hard to gauge from your description), my guess is just that your board spontaneously died (if the motor is shorted, that's also my guess, and the board is the one shorting the motor). Hard to explain, but the basic idea is just that something has broken and you methodically try to find out what/where that is, by disconnecting components (batteries, power distribution board, motor from main board) one after the other. The tricky thing is to find the right version of a Master replacement board (if that's the issue), with all the zillion revisions Begode made to it.

You find it ugly? I think it looks good. Not overdesigned, not underdesigned, simple and functional.

Anything new about this? This is the upgrade the V11 always needed (more robust board), the sooner it is available, the better.

M50T are the notorious, dangerous ones. No issues with the M50LT as far as I know. Yea but those affected MSP/Nikola/RS(?) wheels are a ticking time bomb apparently.

Maybe they don't want the packs to fall out when people do crazy stunts? But you convinced me that it's likely to be a 126V wheel. Cool! Now we have a Patton/Commander Mini/Extreme competitor! (Also, what is KS doing?)

Here's a picture of the T4. Adventure: You may be right. The battery packs seem a bit bigger (as tall as the tire diameter), so maybe it's a 126V wheel like the V13! That would give it 2220Wh like the Patton. (I don't expect a 134V wheel from Inmotion, but if they want to surprise us, I'm not going to complain.)

First impressions: Well, that's a 100V 1800Wh wheel for sure, if that picture is legitimate. Batteries are too physically small to be anything else. (edit: looks like it might be 126V!) And those battery packs do not look removable like some rumors said (I don't mind, never liked that idea anyways). No Patton/Commander Mini/Extreme competition. Maybe another 126V "16" incher from Inmotion will follow? Basically a V12 with suspension. Which is good, what took them so long! Price will be between whatever the V12 costs in your location and 3000 (it better not be more). It gets a bonus point from me just for having a sweet mud guard. Nice ground clearance, but it would be better if the orange metal guard was one continuous piece, so it could slide over an obstacle instead of possibly getting stuck on it between the two pieces. And the grab handles (front and back) are nice, they look very usable. Linkage looks a bit easy to damage in a crash indeed, especially for a trail wheel kind of design. I also hope it is rigid enough, with the battery packs being the frame.

Get an EX30 if you want speed. Then you'll see how big the difference to your V13 is in terms of perceived oomph.

It's a neat wheel! But you guys are right, it looks like it does not fit into the market easily. The problem for me is the price: The price makes sense. It is like a notably better version of the T4 (build quality, design, etc.) so it makes sense that it costs a bit more. But the price is too close to the S22 and other $3000 wheels (let alone the sub-3000 Commander Mini), which offer more performance and range. It may also be a bit too expensive for new riders as a no-brainer decent performance first wheel (I think a $2000 cutoff is about that price, otherwise why not pay a few hundred more for an S22 and the like if you break this psychological barrier anyways). Maybe it will find its fans. It does look cool and nice and shiny, that might be enough! The V12 sold well, too (I assume) and it costs not much less, without suspension. I hope KS know what they are doing in regards to market positioning. Maybe we people here are too much in the enthusiast/performance camp to see what other riders want and would buy. Also I should not blame KS alone for the lack of competitive cheaper entries into the market.

I wonder if the "agreement" includes an NDA so we won't learn anything from the testers. This might be more of a private test than I thought, as opposed to giving it to influencers who will talk about the wheel.

They mean the board board... the one that does the motor control. Not the BMS in the battery pack. In general, EUCs are very simple. When you have some "strange" unexplained issues, replacing the board is the usual thing to do (not much else it could be). Any chance of waranty from your seller?

Patton/Commander Mini/Extreme seem obvious, but you already have a wheel with this tire size. They would be more powerful, though. Maybe you want to go bigger and go for a Sherman-S/Commander Pro/EX30? Or a Master, as a little lighter and less pricy alternative? How much weight and price are you willing to accept?

It makes sense, so people won't just want a free wheel in exchange for "testing". But yeah, at first glance it sounds weird. But ultimately it's a more democratic public beta test than giving to the usual Youtubers/influencers. Not sure if that has any advantages, though, what would it do? And they'll give the wheels to people with social media anyways, so I wonder if this is even different. The good part: something is happening! New wheel!

You need to ignore these motor power numbers, they are meaningless. They say nothing about real world power and power limits. Only real world experience can tell. The A2 number is probably just "low" because the motor is small and such would theoretically overheat faster.

Official update video:

How about an A2? What do you think about the A2?

Haha, if they hadn't lost I would assume the monument would be a little more spectacular and ostentatious than this weird and boring thing. No EUC in the picture Which one did you ride with?

You're right, it's not free overall. Batteries will have more cells and cost more, different electronics, etc. What I mean by "free" is that, by increasing the voltage, you either get more top speed from an existing motor (but no torque loss because the motor is the same, after all) or you can wind your motor for more torque with the higher voltage cancelling out the top speed loss you would have otherwise. So "free" in the sense that you don't have to pay for speed with torque or vice versa, instead you simply increase the voltage. For example, the 100V Begodes offered HS (high speed) and HT (high torque motors), and people had to choose. Then the first 134V wheel (Master) simply used the HT motor, and it was still fast enough thanks to the higher voltage. In a general way, a higher voltage has those benefits but little to no downsides (forcing bigger batteries is a plus in my book, but obviously someone can disagree with that), so it is a "free" improvement in that sense. There's a reason EUC voltages (and power transmission voltages and electric car battery voltages and ...) tend to go up with time, not down.

Yep, that's it. The EXN has three battery packs. Two on the left side, and one on the right back side (the right front space is where the board sits). So it will naturally lean backwards and therefore creep a little backwards. No cause for concern, and not really an issue imho. See here for the internals, for example (timecoded 1:48):

Higher voltage in a EUC is pretty much a free improvement (more speed, or more torque without losing speed for it), with less battery size flexibility as the only meaningful downside I can think of. Why would you not want it?

Hi. Please post in English here Google Translate: Also, I would not expect a reply for a dead wheel brand in a 4 year old thread. But you can always try, who knows, maybe a miracle happens.