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EUC

Found 6 results

  1. Ok, so i did my first full teardown on my tesla v1.2 as i was changing tyre (was curious and want to move beeper....add tail light...paint some stuff....add some better dampening of the main board that rattles in the slots...cant be goodnfor gyro). I found one of the mosfets LEGS were "glued together" by circuit board laquer. I dont know if this is good (aka can prevent shorts between legs) Or If this is bad (aka laquer leads electricity which can overload the electronics) Any electric guru here that could say if i should A. Leave it be(my favourite, if it works dont mess with it) B. Remove laquer with i.e. a tooth pick (to decrease risk of burnt mosfet) . Im thinking it could pick up dirt, that could get moist, that would lead electricity (for example I found a dead fly on the main board :-) ) See attached image
  2. What is the maximum continuous current that this controller can handle? The MOSFETs are labeled as 100v, but I can't find any information about the controllers ability to handle current.
  3. Hi all! I have search a lot around this forum and other pages but still haven't found enough detail about the controller card of the Gotway EUC's. In particular the Msuper 3 since I'm currently working on a separate power-board with either 6 sturdier MOSFET's or 12 smaller as the original. Since most controller cards share the same basic setup I suspect that we could gather "all knowledge" in the same thread. One reason to go for 12 MOSFET's is the fact that there are components that them self may cope with currents above 360A but the connector leads stop at around 160-180A. So the first data I'm asking the forum for is Q1: Has anyone done actual measurements on the currents fed thru the motor of a Msuper 3? Preferably also an oscilloscope image... I have read a lot of documentation and can really recommend the Application Note AN-941 from where I quote the summary It is advisable to follow these general guidelines should be followed when paralleling MOSFETs: Use individual gate resistors to eliminate the risk of parasitic oscillation. Ensure that paralleled devices have a tight thermal coupling. Equalize common source inductance and reduce it to a value that does not greatly impact the total switching losses at the frequency of operation. Reduce stray inductance to values that give acceptable overshoots at the maximum operating current. Ensure the gate of the MOSFET is looking into a stiff (voltage) source with as little impedance as practical. Zener diodes in gate drive circuits may cause oscillations. When needed, they should be placed on the driver side of the gate decoupling resistor(s). Capacitors in gate drive circuits slow down switching, thereby increasing the switching unbalance between devices and may cause oscillations. Stray components are minimized by a tight layout and equalized by symmetrical position of components and routing of connections. I myself have not seen the 6 MOSFET-version of Gotways circuit boards but as I have understood the "fix" is to only solder another set on top, there's no other change of components, the impedance from the driver has been left unchanged. Also, as most of you have seen, there's no individual gate resistor, only a true parallel connection with the extra MOSFET simply mounted in the same PCB-hole. This may not be so serious depending on what frequency the PWM is operating at. Which leads med over to the next question Q2: Has anyone measured the PWM frequency of the Gotway controller board? But in general I sort of have a feeling that Gotway had a larger stock of controller cards and the add-on MOSFET is a quick fix. This is one reason they are somewhat reluctant to give hardware support and spare parts, many small re-sellers have tried and failed. It's more a question of selling new EUC's than fixing the ones that break. The plan now is, as I said initially, to build a separate power board. I de-soldered all MOSFET's along with the two 1200μF capacitors. Also all three motor-wires but realised that two of them are measured for current (the ACS709 circuit). Since there's no problem in that area at all I'll feed the current to "MotoA" and "MotoC" back to the controller PCB, keep it simple. Also, the main battery connector will be moved to the Power board, all the high currents will stay there. I will use only small signal wire connection to drive the controller card. The Power board will be mounted on the heat sink and a bigger heat sink will help balancing the heat in between the MOSFET's. Won't fit that big tunnel-thingy with a fan attached but some fan with thermostat will be used. One major drawback is that the electronics is cooled down partly by "air-speed" i.e. going slow on a hot day puts cooling to a test. The stripped controller PCB will fit nicely under the siren, it needs no additional cooling of any sort. If I get no response on the question above, I'll do some measurements o my own, just being lazy here ;0) But, please help out and collect as much electronic data as possible in this thread! Or link to other threads, I'll try to compile all data here if it seems to be spread out...
  4. While riding off road put the Bot in a stream, flooded the Controller compartment, the wheel beeped the rest of the way out of the woods and finally turned off after getting back to home. Dried the board off, cleaned the muck and dirt off, washed with alcohol, dried again, board would turn on, beeped then turn off, phone would also connect. With controller plugged into unit wheel when turned staggers/thumps, unplugged turns smooth. Checked the MOSFETS in curcuit one is shorted out of the 6, so it seems most likely reason. Want a new board, but seems no one has one in the US, so prob it will have to come from china, by slow boat. So decided why not replace the MOSFET while waiting for fun, well the exact MOSFET I can only get like only 1000 of them, so ordered 6 of a different brand of the same Volt and Amp rating, But could not match the Ohm rating. Question can I get away just replacing one, or should I replace all of the MOSFETS.
  5. Hello EUC community, I've started my EUC journey three month ago with a used e-run 14'' EUC and quickly found out I need something stronger and faster. I bought an IPS ZERO (340Wh) mid of February and got it delivered mid of March. In my third ride it broke - fortunately while I was holding on to a light post. I contacted the seller and after describing the facts, I received the information (full correspondence below): Control board is broken, he will send me a new one. One day later I got an other email stating that an exchange of the control board is not necessary: I should buy the MOSFETs in my country and replace them on my own! This is not acceptable! I asked IPS for help (email to manager@ipselectricunicycle.com on the 19.4.) but received no answer yet. I bought from IPS because of their good name and expected good quality. From my todays perspective I don't see either. Could you help me getting this issue solved? Best Regards Stefan My correspondence with the seller and IPS (read from bottom to top): Dear IPS Management, I've bought a brand new IPS Zero that stopped working after the first few kilometers. Contacting the Seller a few days ago (details below) I got the confirmation, that the control board is broken and they will send a new one. Today (19.04.2016) I received the Info I shall buy and replace the MOSfets on the control board (see correspondence below). This is not acceptable. I've bought a new IPS Zero for 699$ and want to have fun driving. I don't want to start getting an expert in taking it apart and fixing electronics. I hope that you can help me solving this issue. Details: IPS Zero (340Wh) Series Number: 1015xxxxxxxx Order Date: 14.02.2016 Delivery date: beginning of March 2016 Ordered from: shopelectricunicycle.com Order Number: 7216 With best Regards Stefan __________________________________ Am 19.04.2016 um 18:07 schrieb Martin Lee: no other solutions! Thank you Martin Lee Electric Unicycle Online Shop Email:sales@shopelectricunicycle.com Web:shopelectricunicycle.com Phone:+86 185 8021 8352 __________________________________ From: Stefan Date: 2016-04-20 00:01 To: Martin Lee Subject: Re: IPS Zero 340Wh - stopped working -Order: 7216 - 14.02.2016 Hi Martin, I'm not an electronics expert. I just want to have fun with my brand new 700,- $ EUC. Please come up with an other solution. Best Regards Stefan __________________________________________________ Am 19.04.2016 um 06:09 schrieb Martin Lee: Dear Stefan, you can order the attachment MOS parts in your country,not necessarily change control board IPS technical said. Best Regards Martin Lee Electric Unicycle Online Shop Email:sales@shopelectricunicycle.com Web:shopelectricunicycle.com Phone:+86 185 8021 8352 __________________________________ Am 18.04.2016 um 20:40 schrieb Stefan : Hi Martin, Thanks for the fast reply. Please find attached the photo with the series number. Do you also send a description of how to change the control board? Best Regards Stefan __________________________________ Am 18.04.2016 um 07:36 schrieb Martin Lee: control board is broken ! send me the series number on tire like attachment l will send you the control board. Best Regards Martin Lee Electric Unicycle Online Shop Email:sales@shopelectricunicycle.com Web:shopelectricunicycle.com Phone:+86 185 8021 8352 __________________________________ From: Stefan Date: 2016-04-16 22:38 To: Martin Lee Subject: Re: IPS Zero 340Wh - stopped working -Order: 7216 - 14.02.2016 Hi, I've attached the videos in lower quality BR Stefan __________________________________ Am 16.04.2016 um 15:03 schrieb Martin Lee: when l open the link turn to attachment ! what can l do?? please send by attachment l can check it easy 10-30MB is OK . use phone take a short video it is too simple ! Thank you! Martin Lee Electric Unicycle Online Shop Email:sales@shopelectricunicycle.com Web:shopelectricunicycle.com Phone:+86 185 8021 8352 __________________________________ From: Stefan Date: 2016-04-16 20:27 To: Martin Lee Subject: Re: IPS Zero 340Wh - stopped working -Order: 7216 - 14.02.2016 Hi Martin, I've made two videos you can find here: LINK deleted PIN: IPSZero The IPS Zero does not switch on any more. Also it doesn't charge. The wheel doesn't rotate free. It is not mechanical blocked, it feels more like it flips from one magnet to the next. BR Stefan __________________________________ Am 11.04.2016 um 03:42 schrieb Martin Lee: Dear Stefan, please send me the video explain what is going on. what l am talking about is video l hope l can receive the video by attachment from your next Email if you want to solve the problem quickly. Best Regards Martin Lee Electric Unicycle Online Shop Email:sales@shopelectricunicycle.com Web:shopelectricunicycle.com Phone:+86 185 8021 8352 __________________________________ From: Stefan Date: 2016-04-11 02:22 To: Martin Lee Subject: IPS Zero 340Wh - stopped working -Order: 7216 - 14.02.2016 Hi Martin, I was on a ride with my IPS Zero and while standing on it and holding to a lightpost it stopped working. The lights went out and I could not find him on the IPS Mobile app. The charger wont charge, also the battery was down to ~65%. What is your proposal? Best Regards Stefan
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