Marty Backe Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 I dropped my truck off at the dealer for some work and rode the ACM2 home. Good thing I have my Pebble vibrate alarm set to 25-mph because this wheel easily exceeds 25-mph if you're not careful (i.e., you don't have to push very hard to go really fast). Really enjoying this new type of ACM. Turns out I had an unfortunately selling experience with my old ACM and now have it again, with a broken axle. Trying to turn a lemon into some lemonade, I'm replace the motor and control board with an ACM2 motor and control board. So I'm going to have two ACM2's. Not sure why yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 1 hour ago, KingSong69 said: The battery mostly dont get a damage...But the BMS inside the pack has some protection mosfets which might have burned. Again: MUST not happen...but can happen....so better to check this pack.... Question: Have the other plugs bin still connected when that happend? (the charge plug and balancer plug?) Yes. They were connected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Just watched Dan Coles YouTube video on replacing the xt60’s. I’m guessing that’s you @Rehab1? Looks pretty straight forward . The only thing is I’ll be replacing one on the lead wire that goes from the left to right side . It’s got 2 wires in each “hole “ so is there a different technique to ensure a good connection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 1 hour ago, Marty Backe said: Turns out I had an unfortunately selling experience with my old ACM and now have it again, with a broken axle. Trying to turn a lemon into some lemonade, I'm replace the motor and control board with an ACM2 motor and control board. So I'm going to have two ACM2's. Not sure why yet 3 I thought this is mostly a Crack Song problem. So you sold it to someone and within days/weeks, the axle broke? That's a bummer. Before you commit to ordering the motor and board, make sure the boards are of the same shape, or at least the new board will fit where the old board goes. There's always a risk of a shell/board modification that will prevent your upgrade. However, it makes no sense to replace like for like when such a good upgrade is available. Are the battery pack configurations compatible? I mean your switching from 67V to 84V aren't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 26 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Just watched Dan Coles YouTube video on replacing the xt60’s. I’m guessing that’s you @Rehab1? Looks pretty straight forward . The only thing is I’ll be replacing one on the lead wire that goes from the left to right side . It’s got 2 wires in each “hole “ so is there a different technique to ensure a good connection? The dual wires going to each terminal on my ACM is not standard. I added a step down transformer to power an experimental ventilation fan. You only need the one wire per terminal. Just don’t mix up the pos/ neg unless your into fireworks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 2 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: The dual wires going to each terminal on my ACM is not standard. I added a step down transformer to power an experimental ventilation fan. You only need the one wire per terminal. Just don’t mix up the pos/ neg unless your into fireworks. @Rehab1, Haha. No you misunderstood. I too have 2 wires going to one xt60. Is the long lead that goes from each battery . So do I solder them both at the same time ? Or one and then the other on top of that ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 9 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: @Rehab1, Haha. No you misunderstood. I too have 2 wires going to one xt60. Is the long lead that goes from each battery . So do I solder them both at the same time ? Yes 9 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Or one and then the other on top of that ? No - the solder has to melt and cool down "in one piece" or you (could) have mechanical/conductivity problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 11 minutes ago, Chriull said: Yes No - the solder has to melt and cool down "in one piece" or you (could) have mechanical/conductivity problems. Okay. Is there a technique for doing this ? The wires are pretty far so putting them both on there ...keeping them in place and soldering together seems kinda tricky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 It's very difficult to solder three things at once. Bare all wire ends. twist both blacks together, twist both reds together. tin all surfaces. Solder these combined wires to the appropriate terminal. Don't forget to slip some shrink wrap on FIRST. Make sure its big enough to go over the combined wires, and not just one wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 3 minutes ago, Smoother said: It's very difficult to solder three things at once. Bare all wire ends. twist both blacks together, twist both reds together. tin all surfaces. Solder these combined wires to the appropriate terminal. Don't forget to slip some shrink wrap on FIRST. Make sure its big enough to go over the combined wires, and not just one wire. Thanks ...please don’t take me a stupid bit : “tin all surfaces”? Meaning apply solder to the entire area ? I hope this goes well tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 4 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Okay. Is there a technique for doing this ? The wires are pretty far so putting them both on there ...keeping them in place and soldering together seems kinda tricky Find a hobby shop that sells RC cars and drones. They solder xt60's all the time. I changed the connectors on my quadcopter from Deans to XT60 at Hobby Lobby, and they didn't even charge for the labor, just the connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hobby lobby ??? Really ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 10 minutes ago, steve454 said: Find a hobby shop that sells RC cars and drones. They solder xt60's all the time. I changed the connectors on my quadcopter from Deans to XT60 at Hobby Lobby, and they didn't even charge for the labor, just the connectors. We had an rc store but it went under about a year ago. No one around here does this kind of thing . I’ve called around all day . Small town problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 52 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: @Rehab1, Haha. No you misunderstood. I too have 2 wires going to one xt60. Is the long lead that goes from each battery . So do I solder them both at the same time ? Or one and then the other on top of that ? I did misunderstand. Sorry . I ran back to work to throw an example together because of the importance. If you solder both wires together you will have a difficult time inserting the wires into the terminal. Here is what did: 1 coat both wires and terminal with flux 2) slide your heat shrink wrap over the two wires and position it 2-3 “ out of the way of your xl 60 terminal. 2) find someone to hold the two wires together with a pair of needle nose plyers and place the wires inside the terminal. I used a special octopus stand that really helps to hold and position both the XL 60 and wires. 3) heat the terminal and wires while applying your solder. Try not to overheat or the plastic XL60 housing may melt. The solder should flow evenly around the wires and into the terminal. Make sure there is zero movement after you remove your soldering gun or a mini torch. Let it cool completely. We don’t want a cold solder connection. 4) slide down your shrink wrap over the terminsl and heat gently until there is a good bond. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 7 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: We had an rc store but it went under about a year ago. No one around here does this kind of thing . I’ve called around all day . Small town problems In that case if you Google how to solder XT60 connectors, several videos pop up. I've watched a couple in the past, pretty helpful. Good luck with your repair. Or just look at the post above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 25 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: I did misunderstand. Sorry . If you solder both wires together you will have a difficult time inserting the wires into the terminal. Here is what did: 1 coat both wires and terminal with flux 2) slide your heat shrink wrap over the two wires and position it 2-3 “ out of the way of your xl 60 terminal. 2) find someone to hold the two wires together with a pair of needle nose plyers and place the wires inside the terminal. I used a special octopus stand that really helps to hold and position both the XL 60 and wires. 3) heat the terminal and wires while applying your solder. Try not to overheat or the plastic XL60 housing may melt. The solder should flow evenly around the wires and into the terminal. Make sure there is zero movement after you remove your soldering gun or a mini torch. Let it cool completely. We don’t want a cold solder connection. 4) slide down your shrink wrap over the terminsl and heat gently until there is a good bond. Hope this helps. Awesome . Thank you for the feedback and mini tutorial ! Would lead free rosin core solder be okay? It’s what I have access to right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 11 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Awesome . Thank you for the feedback and mini tutorial ! Would lead free rosin core solder be okay? It’s what I have access to right now I prefer a mixture 60/40 (tin lead mix) the melting temperature is much lower than lead free. It melts around 180-190 degree c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 2 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: I prefer a mixture 60/40 (tin lead mix) the melting temperature is much lower than lead free. It melts around 180-190 degree c. That's important, otherwise, there is a high risk of melting the plastic connector. Ask me how I know. . This is a VERY IMPORTANT connection. If you are not a seasoned solderer, and it sounds like you are not, then I would have someone more experience do it. It could literally be a matter of life and death. These are not the connections to cut your teeth on. Don't make me come back in a week with an "I told you so" post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 5 minutes ago, Smoother said: That's important, otherwise, there is a high risk of melting the plastic connector. Ask me how I know. . This is a VERY IMPORTANT connection. If you are not a seasoned solderer, and it sounds like you are not, then I would have someone more experience do it. It could literally be a matter of life and death. These are not the connections to cut your teeth on. Don't make me come back in a week with an "I told you so" post. Thank you for the concern . I’m a bit concerned myself but the videos I’ve seen look pretty straight forward . I’m only having to solder one battery connection . The other is just a lead wire connecting the 2 batteries and is not hot . I’m going to give it a go. I’ll let everyone know how it turns out tomorrow night . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 9 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: I’ll let everyone know how it turns out tomorrow night . Not if you break your arms in a face plant when a soldered joint fails. Soldering can be very difficult. I'm pretty bad at it myself, but I blame the solder I have. I need some of that low heat solder @Rehab1 mentioned. I'm getting a bit better after soldering 48 connections on my 18650 charging rack, but I'd still balk at face plant battery wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 2 minutes ago, Smoother said: Not if you break your arms in a face plant when a soldered joint fails. Soldering can be very difficult. I'm pretty bad at it myself, but I blame the solder I have. I need some of that low heat solder @Rehab1 mentioned. I'm getting a bit better after soldering 48 connections on my 18650 charging rack, but I'd still balk at face plant battery wires. Haha nope . Don’t want that ! I’ll test the connections before calling it job done. The stock solder ...although very ugly . Is extremely strong . Can’t break the connection by pulling at the wires . And I’ve tried ...hard . This is of course on the burnt one ...so it really doesn’t matter . So if I can get a solid solder like that I think I’ll be fine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Oops. My bad. For some reason I have XL on my mind. XT XT XT..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 23 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Oops. My bad. For some reason I have XL on my mind. XT XT XT..... Haha. Figured that’s what you meant . Well I’ll pop by tomorrow to let everyone know how it went ...if you don’t hear from me tomorrow night then assume there is a giant crater where my house used to be. ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 7 hours ago, Smoother said: I thought this is mostly a Crack Song problem. So you sold it to someone and within days/weeks, the axle broke? That's a bummer. Before you commit to ordering the motor and board, make sure the boards are of the same shape, or at least the new board will fit where the old board goes. There's always a risk of a shell/board modification that will prevent your upgrade. However, it makes no sense to replace like for like when such a good upgrade is available. Are the battery pack configurations compatible? I mean your switching from 67V to 84V aren't you? I now believe he broke the axle but lied to me when saying he had no issues when riding it for a few days. Evidenced by a damaged trolley handle that I didn't notice until after he returned it and took his money. I've seen the inside of my ACM2 and it strikes me as the same as the ACM. My old ACM is the 1300wh 84-volt version. So everything should be compatible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 3 hours ago, Marty Backe said: I now believe he broke the axle but lied to me when saying he had no issues when riding it for a few days. Evidenced by a damaged trolley handle that I didn't notice until after he returned it and took his money. I've seen the inside of my ACM2 and it strikes me as the same as the ACM. My old ACM is the 1300wh 84-volt version. So everything should be compatible. Sorry to hear this @Marty Backe. That’s pretty messed up. That would be like me trying to return my ACM because I blew the xt60’s by my own carelessness and trying to blame it on the seller . Not cool. If you buy a used item and damage it yourself it’s not the sellers problem, it’s yours . ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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