Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Rehab1 said: I just reconnected my ACM packs an hour ago. The 4 BMS cables can be connected at any time. My method: 1) connect the 2 BMS connectors and then the XT 60 connector on the non mainboard side first. Secure your side cover. 2 flip your wheel over and connect the other two BMS connectors and then the other XT 60 battery pack connector. *** Not the connector going to the mainboard**** 3) once all of the other battery and BMS cables are fastened you can now connect the mainboard to the battery packs.**** Be deliberate when you connect these together. Sometimes there is a small spark. Be sure both the male and female xt 60 connectors are position correctly before trying to insert them together or your could end up with a huge arc. Wear leather gloves if you are unsure ir worried. I still wear them when connecti g packs just to be safe. Nice job!!! So.’l everything is hooked up now . But I’m experiencing hard tilt back over like 12mph. Any ideas ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 26 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: So.’l everything is hooked up now . But I’m experiencing hard tilt back over like 12mph. Any ideas ? But the wheel is rideable now? At least that is one good thing. What about the battery voltage, have you tried charging up fully since the repair? Is the speed limiter set too low? I know you had it set higher before the malfunction. You might want to contact a reseller for repairs, but that would cost about 60 dollars shipping both ways plus labor and parts. Maybe get another wheel and use the one you have for parts. BTW, that was some excellent shrink tubing work, red on red black on black and very neat. I would have just got black and put it on everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 8 minutes ago, steve454 said: But the wheel is rideable now? At least that is one good thing. What about the battery voltage, have you tried charging up fully since the repair? Is the speed limiter set too low? BTW, that was some excellent shrink tubing work, red on red black on black and very neat. I would have just got black and put it on everything. Thank you @steve454! This was my first ever solder job/wheel fix. I wouldn’t say my solders were pretty but they were damn secure. I just recalibrated the wheel because I couldn’t think of anything else to do and voila...no more tilt back . Using the darkness bot app (if it’s readings are accurate) my voltage stayed pretty consistent at 66v (the batteries are full as of now ) I did plug the charger in to see if it would start to charge and got a red light ...so assume that means it’s charging okay. Yep it’s rideable and tilt back is gone (for now ) My remaining question is how to tell of the pack that I had to re solder the connection on is actually working and weather the bms is okay. Since there are 2 batteries in this unit it would still work even if I have an issue . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 9 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Thank you @steve454! This was my first ever solder job/wheel fix. I wouldn’t say my solders were pretty but they were damn secure. I just recalibrated the wheel because I couldn’t think of anything else to do and voila...no more tilt back . Using the darkness bot app (if it’s readings are accurate) my voltage stayed pretty consistent at 66v (the batteries are full as of now ) I did plug the charger in to see if it would start to charge and got a red light ...so assume that means it’s charging okay. Yep it’s rideable and tilt back is gone (for now ) My remaining question is how to tell of the pack that I had to re solder the connection on is actually working and weather the bms is okay. Since there are 2 batteries in this unit it would still work even if I have an issue . I would suggest that you take it off the charger, wait until tomorrow, then try charging it again while you are near the wheel. Can't be too safe. With a major problem like you had, you should probably send it to a maintenance facility for diagnosis. I think you might have gotten a bad wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 29 minutes ago, steve454 said: I would suggest that you take it off the charger, wait until tomorrow, then try charging it again while you are near the wheel. Can't be too safe. With a major problem like you had, you should probably send it to a maintenance facility for diagnosis. I think you might have gotten a bad wheel. Since it’s charged (I actually had just finished charging it the night I had my little “incident “ ) I just plugged it in momentarily to see if it would show me a red (charging ) light . I bought this wheel used ...for a very very good price and the seller had no issues with it . It’s not worth the hassle or cost to send it to someone imo . It’s working now . The PCB is new and the upgraded V2 version so I think it’ll be fine . Pretty sure worst case I blew the BMS on one side ....meaning I’d just need to buy a new pack . But at $300 I’m hoping to avoid that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 9 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Since it’s charged (I actually had just finished charging it the night I had my little “incident “ ) I just plugged it in momentarily to see if it would show me a red (charging ) light . I bought this wheel used ...for a very very good price and the seller had no issues with it . It’s not worth the hassle or cost to send it to someone imo . It’s working now . The PCB is new and the upgraded V2 version so I think it’ll be fine . Pretty sure worst case I blew the BMS on one side ....meaning I’d just need to buy a new pack . But at $300 I’m hoping to avoid that too. Take it to @Marty Backe . Tell him you bought it from him a while ago, and demand your money back. He's sold so many dodgy wheels he'll probably fall for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 1 minute ago, Smoother said: Take it to @Marty Backe . Tell him you bought it from him a while ago, and demand your money back. He's sold so many dodgy wheels he'll probably fall for it. Nah. Just wouldn’t feel right ...I mean he might fall for it but I’d know ....I’d know the truth . I honestly think it’s okay. After recalibration the tilt back is gone . Voltage readings look good . Miles remaining (if the reading is accurate) shows 40mi. So if I can believe what it says that means both 410wh packs are online. The question to me is did I blow the BMS in this pack I just fixed . @Rehab1 has an ACM he’s about to sell and it’s looking pretty good to me right now ...if I get it then and only then will I consider contacting @Marty Backe about “taking back” this one . ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 20 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Pretty sure worst case I blew the BMS on one side ....meaning I’d just need to buy a new pack . But at $300 I’m hoping to avoid that too. A BMS might cost $20. if it's blown (no I don't know how to test this) it can be replaced. That blue shrink wrap can be replaced. Now you're an expert solderer patching in a new BMS should be child's play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 7 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Rehab1 has an ACM he’s about to sell and it’s looking pretty good to me right now ...if I get it then and only then will I consider contacting @Marty Backe about “taking back” this one It is totally ready for sale except for one quirky thing, the damn pedals won’t stay up. The magnets in the new pedals and side panels don’t line up. I contacted @Jason McNeil about it. Weird! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 20 minutes ago, Smoother said: A BMS might cost $20. if it's blown (no I don't know how to test this) it can be replaced. That blue shrink wrap can be replaced. Now you're an expert solderer patching in a new BMS should be child's play Haha. I managed to make a solid connection. And solder live battery wires without another explosion...so that’s good I guess . But I’d imagine soldering a BMS would be a more delicate matter. The Xt60’s weren’t so bad but it was 2 wires ...assuming BMS is more like a board with lots of connections close together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 18 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: It is totally ready for sale except for one quirky thing, the damn pedals won’t stay up. The magnets in the new pedals and side panels don’t line up. I contacted @Jason McNeil about it. Weird! That is weird . How far off are they? Have a price in mind ? It’s the 84v 1600wh version right ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 1 minute ago, Scott Henley said: .assuming BMS is more like a board with lots of connections close together. You assume correctly sir. However, there are lessons at YouTube University so you can see what it entails. I'm guessing two big wires out to the control board, two thin wires in from the charge port, and a number of thin wires for the balancing circuitry. Maybe two wires over to the other battery pack. Oh and two wires in from the battery pack itself. Something like that. All managable, after a little practice on some non-critical devices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 20 minutes ago, Smoother said: You assume correctly sir. However, there are lessons at YouTube University so you can see what it entails. I'm guessing two big wires out to the control board, two thin wires in from the charge port, and a number of thin wires for the balancing circuitry. Maybe two wires over to the other battery pack. Oh and two wires in from the battery pack itself. Something like that. All managable, after a little practice on some non-critical devices. Okay. Well I’ll cross that bridge when I get there . ACM is up and running . So that’s a plus . I’m gonna ride it exclusively for the next day or so ...get the batteries down to like 30% and see what my mileage was from 100. Then re charge. Do the range test over again. If I get considerably less mileage the second time around then I can assume the bms is bad and the second pack isn’t charging . Then I’ll persue my options. New pack : $330 ...changing out bms on my own ...priceless...? (and possibly out of my wheelhouse) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 8 hours ago, KingSong69 said: Yes, i would say so... But who am i ? Its just that i would connect the real power plug first....but who knows.... I'm not doubting you, just generally confused. On all of my Gotway wheels I did it opposite to that. Guess since it works for me I'll keep doing it this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted February 23, 2018 Share Posted February 23, 2018 2 hours ago, Scott Henley said: Okay. Well I’ll cross that bridge when I get there . ACM is up and running . So that’s a plus . I’m gonna ride it exclusively for the next day or so ...get the batteries down to like 30% and see what my mileage was from 100. Then re charge. Do the range test over again. If I get considerably less mileage the second time around then I can assume the bms is bad and the second pack isn’t charging . Then I’ll persue my options. New pack : $330 ...changing out bms on my own ...priceless...? (and possibly out of my wheelhouse) Assuming you have the 820wh version, you should expect ~30-mile range if both packs are good. I bet you're going to be OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 Little update: The ACM is up and running . Cruises around today at about 19mph for a few miles . All seems well. Minor play in the wheel but nothing horrible . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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