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How hard can I push my ACM?


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Just received my Used ACM . It’s the 820wh 67v version . V1 I believe but with the v2 (12 mosfet) board installed . It starts  to show overspeed warning at 30kph on the app. I’ve turned off the 2nd alarm and set tilt back at 40kph . I’m just hesitant to actually push it that far for fear of failure  . Thoughts ??

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That wheel can safely travel in the low-20's. See EU Guy's rather infamous video where he pushes it until it cuts out. It's all filmed with a drone. You'll find it on his YouTube channel. That'll show you the top speed. I wouldn't feel comfortable pushing it much above 35-kph for long periods. The 84-volt wheels excel for speeds of 40-kph and above.

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25 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

That wheel can safely travel in the low-20's. See EU Guy's rather infamous video where he pushes it until it cuts out. It's all filmed with a drone. You'll find it on his YouTube channel. That'll show you the top speed. I wouldn't feel comfortable pushing it much above 35-kph for long periods. The 84-volt wheels excel for speeds of 40-kph and above.

So what youre saying is that I need an 84V wheel to really push some speed limits? I like the ACM a lot . It’s soo stable . I’m kinda saddening by the low 20’s but still faster than my 14D. If only the build quality was on par with KS . I’d probably completely convert to GW if they get a few things worked out . At the end of the day I paid a more than fair price so I’m happy . Think if they ever do the msuper “teslarised” I’ll be definitely get one . 

 

One more ore quick question: there is a tiny bit of back and forth play in the wheel when powered up and standing still . Flywheel locks have been installed to keep the axle nuts tight ...is this normal ...the small bit of play ? 

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Hey, that ACM looks familiar ?

What Marty said, low 20s are probably fine, but I would always pay attention to beeps/the final alarm and wear safety gear if you're going to push it. Good luck with the wheel and safe riding!

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Just now, Kevin Grandon said:

Hey, that ACM looks familiar ?

What Marty said, low 20s are probably fine, but I would always pay attention to beeps/the final alarm and wear safety gear if you're going to push it. Good luck with the wheel and safe riding!

Haha. It’s should . ? 

yeah I’m thinking some protective gear might be a good idea. I’m a bit of an adrenaline junkie so I will eventually push it too hard I bet . Just really wanted to give GW a shot and I’m very happy I did . 

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3 hours ago, Kevin Grandon said:

What Marty said, low 20s are probably fine, but I would always pay attention to beeps/the final alarm and wear safety gear if you're going to push it.

Repeating again for good measure: pay attention the final alarm.

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7 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

So what youre saying is that I need an 84V wheel to really push some speed limits? I like the ACM a lot . It’s soo stable . I’m kinda saddening by the low 20’s but still faster than my 14D. If only the build quality was on par with KS . I’d probably completely convert to GW if they get a few things worked out . At the end of the day I paid a more than fair price so I’m happy . Think if they ever do the msuper “teslarised” I’ll be definitely get one . 

 

One more ore quick question: there is a tiny bit of back and forth play in the wheel when powered up and standing still . Flywheel locks have been installed to keep the axle nuts tight ...is this normal ...the small bit of play ? 

Diagnosing "a tiny bit of back and forth play" is very hard since it's such a subjective statement. Sounds like it's probably not a problem. If it doesn't distract you as you're riding than it's probably nothing. If it raises to your consciousness while riding, it's probably something. How's that for a definitive answer :whistling:

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7 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Diagnosing "a tiny bit of back and forth play" is very hard since it's such a subjective statement. Sounds like it's probably not a problem. If it doesn't distract you as you're riding than it's probably nothing. If it raises to your consciousness while riding, it's probably something. How's that for a definitive answer :whistling:

@Marty Backe Not noticeable at all riding . Just when pushing the wheel back and forth by hand . So I blew 2 xt60 connectors last night . Bit of a spark and a bunch of soot . Wheel is down until I can get 2 xt60’s and re solder them . Lol never seen this happen before but man was it interesting. Everything still works (just one battery pack is down until I can get new connections for it ) so I’ll probably stay off of it until I get it fixed . 1500w in 420wh is probably a bad idea !

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55 minutes ago, Scott Henley said:

@Marty Backe Not noticeable at all riding . Just when pushing the wheel back and forth by hand . So I blew 2 xt60 connectors last night . Bit of a spark and a bunch of soot . Wheel is down until I can get 2 xt60’s and re solder them . Lol never seen this happen before but man was it interesting. Everything still works (just one battery pack is down until I can get new connections for it ) so I’ll probably stay off of it until I get it fixed . 1500w in 420wh is probably a bad idea !

hopefully nothing happens to your battery BMS....some others had that bad luck, when it sparked

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15 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

Think if they ever do the msuper “teslarised” I’ll be definitely get one .

They allready have that....the Msupers they sell now have 2000Watt Tesla Motor, fan on board etc...exacly like Martys teslarized ACM2...

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2 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

@Marty Backe Not noticeable at all riding . Just when pushing the wheel back and forth by hand . So I blew 2 xt60 connectors last night . Bit of a spark and a bunch of soot . Wheel is down until I can get 2 xt60’s and re solder them . Lol never seen this happen before but man was it interesting. Everything still works (just one battery pack is down until I can get new connections for it ) so I’ll probably stay off of it until I get it fixed . 1500w in 420wh is probably a bad idea !

Wow, how exactly did you do this? I'm going to guess that you didn't reconnect the connectors in the proper order. That's too bad.

You were just poking around in the wheel, disconnecting and connecting things :confused1:

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43 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

I'm going to guess that you didn't reconnect the connectors in the proper order

What is the right order?  I get a spark every time I reconnect my 14c battery.  Is there a right order for the 14c too?

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33 minutes ago, Smoother said:

What is the right order?  I get a spark every time I reconnect my 14c battery.  Is there a right order for the 14c too?

I guess we are talking about different kind of sparks...

A little spark might occur all time on reconnecting, but here and in some other cases it was a spark that big, that it destroyed the xt60 connector and made it unusable directly. Metal pins and plastik melted.... If THAT kind of sparks happen, it might even defect the battery BMS.

That has happened on some ACMs (rehab and now here for example) and it seams that the difference between unloaded capcitor and battery was to high and caused the (ugly big) spark. In normal situations, connecting paralled batterys it shouldnt happen as long they have the same voltage.

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46 minutes ago, Smoother said:

What is the right order?  I get a spark every time I reconnect my 14c battery.  Is there a right order for the 14c too?

You always get a spark, yes. But not the kind that destroys connectors. That means he connected the battery packs together while the control board was also connected to the batteries. Always first disconnect the control board and then mess with the multiple battery packs. And when reconnecting, connect the battery packs together before reconnecting the control board.

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4 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

hopefully nothing happens to your battery BMS....some others had that bad luck, when it sparked

Well. After the incident I pulled the battery out completely . And powered it back up. Worked fine . Just too little juice to want to risk riding it . I’ve ordered some xt60’s from amazon and they will be here tomorrow 

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45 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

You always get a spark, yes. But not the kind that destroys connectors. That means he connected the battery packs together while the control board was also connected to the batteries. Always first disconnect the control board and then mess with the multiple battery packs. And when reconnecting, connect the battery packs together before reconnecting the control board.

Yes . This is exactly what I did . I thought the battery wires were disconnected but I was looking at the wrong set of wires . 

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57 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

I guess we are talking about different kind of sparks...

A little spark might occur all time on reconnecting, but here and in some other cases it was a spark that big, that it destroyed the xt60 connector and made it unusable directly. Metal pins and plastik melted.... If THAT kind of sparks happen, it might even defect the battery BMS.

That has happened on some ACMs (rehab and now here for example) and it seams that the difference between unloaded capcitor and battery was to high and caused the (ugly big) spark. In normal situations, connecting paralled batterys it shouldnt happen as long they have the same voltage.

How will I know if I’ve shot the bms ? I’m gonna replace the XT60 tomorrow and see what happens . Like I said , it powers on and everything with just the one battery connected . Everything looks okay. Only problem I see is the 2 xts are burnt 

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2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Wow, how exactly did you do this? I'm going to guess that you didn't reconnect the connectors in the proper order. That's too bad.

You were just poking around in the wheel, disconnecting and connecting things :confused1:

No. The shell was crooked( well the faceplate where the power button and light are as well as the rear led plate ) when I received it and there was something rattling around inside . So following a video of yours I took the shell apart. I was distracted watching a tv show and just didn’t pay attention to what I was doing . Lesson learned and completely my fault . 

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10 minutes ago, Scott Henley said:

How will I know if I’ve shot the bms ? I’m gonna replace the XT60 tomorrow and see what happens . Like I said , it powers on and everything with just the one battery connected . Everything looks okay. Only problem I see is the 2 xts are burnt 

You will see if the disconnected  battery pack still works , i guess, exactly i dont know.

But i know that happens to a Monster owner...he destroyed 2 packs by a spark happening

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Just now, KingSong69 said:

You will see if the disconnected  battery pack still works , i guess, exactly i dont know.

But i know that happens to a Monster owner...he destroyed 2 packs by a spark happening

Well. Like I said . The pack on the other side works . So I’ll disconnect the “good one “ and only connect the “bad one “ when I replace the connectors tomorrow . If it powers on I guess it’s okay?

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1 minute ago, Scott Henley said:

Well. Like I said . The pack on the other side works . So I’ll disconnect the “good one “ and only connect the “bad one “ when I replace the connectors tomorrow . If it powers on I guess it’s okay?

Yip, then everything should be OK.....

I guess that should be tested, as it wouldnt be good if one of the packs is not working and you dont know.

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4 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

Yip, then everything should be OK.....

I guess that should be tested, as it wouldnt be good if one of the packs is not working and you dont know.

Yeah . That would be bad ! I’d definitely experience a cut out . Hopefully all is well and it will work fine after I replace the plugs . The fact that it still powers on and everything seems like a good sign . So worst case I’ll need one new battery pack if this one doesn’t work . But thinking more about it I can’t image why the battery itself would be compromised. It looks good and didn’t burn itself . Just the connection 

image.jpg

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11 minutes ago, Scott Henley said:

Yeah . That would be bad ! I’d definitely experience a cut out . Hopefully all is well and it will work fine after I replace the plugs . The fact that it still powers on and everything seems like a good sign . So worst case I’ll need one new battery pack if this one doesn’t work . But thinking more about it I can’t image why the battery itself would be compromised. It looks good and didn’t burn itself . Just the connection 

image.jpg

The battery mostly dont get a damage...But the BMS inside the pack has some protection mosfets which might have burned.

Again: MUST not happen...but can happen....so better to check this pack....

 

Question: Have the other plugs bin still connected when that happend? (the charge plug and balancer plug?)

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