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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


onkeldanuel

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9 hours ago, BillyKo said:

So you're saying the High Power, Dangerous only comes on before the wheel cuts off?... I have my metric set on imperial.

 

High amps (speed bump/pothole) or high pwm% (close to max speed) this pop-up does not appear for 1st/2nd class alarms + 32mph does not match any of them(kicking in at 30kph/18mph & 45kph/28mph), that's why I told you to look at a gps app like Maps or whatever to see what the speed actualy is at "32mph + pop-up + beeps" 
Either the speed is biased by the metric/imperial mix bug (so multiplied/divided by 1.6), or it is well displayed and in this case I can't explain the beeps+pop-up at this speed sorry my friend

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This resembles something from the MC world. Sorry for the OT, hope for understanding:  This machine is fun - but belongs to another (cartoon) world. At 5:20 you will see, that the torque from the engine is so strong, that you can rev the engine just to lift up the MC from the kickstand.  I tried that once - scary!  And that was all, riding this bike was not for me :P

 

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17 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Uh oh ! I was thinking that problem didn't apply to Masters or surely we would have seen it by now - so many people have been riding those aggressively for quite a while now. I haven't been riding mine aggressively, but I agree I would be fairly mad to continue riding it if there was any sign it could be that issue.

Ah well, might be time to insist on a new motor from Gotway a bit more forcefully if they look like they are not playing ball. 

I am sorry. Did not want to scare you. But I have we have seen so many bad motors now it is hard not to think in that direction. 

I tk have some strange noises from my motor. Much more sounds and complaining than on my MSX84,  even is the Master feels si much stronger, it complains a lit with different sounds. Will record some of them next weekend. 🤔 

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15 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

But I have we have seen so many bad motors now it is hard not to think in that direction. 

No I totally agree we are right to be cautious and suspicious ! I have mine turned on all day now with the light on trying to drain the batteries for its impending 3 month hiatus while they see if they can sort me out a new motor... hopefully your sounds are not as potentially fatal as mine !

Edited by Cerbera
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14 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I'm hoping for a "Master King ÜberPro 2000" with a 30x5" tire, 170lbs weight, and 80mph top riding speed

I might be interested if it has 113 MOSFETs and 77 caps. The suspension must have less than 50mm of travel or come with a retractable step ladder, and require at least 1200 psi to hold me. I don't do big jumps so I just want @Robse's Rolls Royce ride. An $8 suspension pump will be fine, no need in splurging on accessories. Seat (or saddle) better be comfortable (preferably western style, not english) since all the riding will be seated.

Edited by Tawpie
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I will be getting new electronics for display/light issue, and a new suspension as my rebound do not work. Good news today.

Next will be to investigate the forward/back play. I am not convinced it is in the sliders. Feels like most of it is in the motor (like Rawnie suggest). I will mount it on a stable rig with out the motor, and see if it is still rocking back and forth.  But have to wait untill the weekend.  

The forward back play was enhanced on soft mode. Well the real play was not, but the feeling of the play was enhanced a lot. I did not notice before as I ride hard and medium. The play feels like 2cm (measured top of the seat), but when I measure on the tire it is more like 4mm play. When looking and feeling with my hand on the slider I see no movement at all. 

I really hope it is the sliders as there is a solution for that, but I am afraid it is not. If it is in the motor, it could be firmware, slow reading of the hall sensor,  or physical play in the motor.

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1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

I will be getting new electronics for display/light issue, and a new suspension as my rebound do not work. Good news today.

Next will be to investigate the forward/back play. I am not convinced it is in the sliders. Feels like most of it is in the motor (like Rawnie suggest). I will mount it on a stable rig with out the motor, and see if it is still rocking back and forth.  But have to wait untill the weekend.  

The forward back play was enhanced on soft mode. Well the real play was not, but the feeling of the play was enhanced a lot. I did not notice before as I ride hard and medium. The play feels like 2cm (measured top of the seat), but when I measure on the tire it is more like 4mm play. When looking and feeling with my hand on the slider I see no movement at all. 

I really hope it is the sliders as there is a solution for that, but I am afraid it is not. If it is in the motor, it could be firmware, slow reading of the hall sensor,  or physical play in the motor.

how the motor could cause something like this ? it's impossible to me

the play is the bushing moving back and forth, tight the side screw even if cause stiction, do you still have it ?

it's also easy to check if you slide the motor out, just move the rod inside the silver pillars

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Yes I still have it when sliders bushings are adjusted to sticking.

I will as I wrote slide out the motor this weekend and really find out what is actually loose 😉 I hope I am wrong.

Motor  an be "loose" if it can rotate without any hall sensor noticing and therefore not react with opposite electric power to counter this motion. 

Mechanical failure in the motor causing this is not likely

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8 hours ago, EUCzero said:

I will be getting new electronics for display/light issue, and a new suspension as my rebound do not work. Good news today.

Next will be to investigate the forward/back play. I am not convinced it is in the sliders. Feels like most of it is in the motor (like Rawnie suggest). I will mount it on a stable rig with out the motor, and see if it is still rocking back and forth.  But have to wait untill the weekend.  

The forward back play was enhanced on soft mode. Well the real play was not, but the feeling of the play was enhanced a lot. I did not notice before as I ride hard and medium. The play feels like 2cm (measured top of the seat), but when I measure on the tire it is more like 4mm play. When looking and feeling with my hand on the slider I see no movement at all. 

I really hope it is the sliders as there is a solution for that, but I am afraid it is not. If it is in the motor, it could be firmware, slow reading of the hall sensor,  or physical play in the motor.

Wait! Are they accepting the cold weather blinking/failing of light and display as a deviation + replace the parts? Gotta ask myself too if this is the case.. :)

Edited by Kutvelo
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7 hours ago, Kutvelo said:

Wait! Are they accepting the cold weather blinking/failing of light and display as a deviation + replace the parts? Gotta ask myself too if this is the case.. :)

Begode actually admitted on facebook a week ago.

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21 hours ago, EUCzero said:

I will be getting new electronics for display/light issue, and a new suspension as my rebound do not work. Good news today.

Next will be to investigate the forward/back play. I am not convinced it is in the sliders. Feels like most of it is in the motor (like Rawnie suggest). I will mount it on a stable rig with out the motor, and see if it is still rocking back and forth.  But have to wait untill the weekend.  

The forward back play was enhanced on soft mode. Well the real play was not, but the feeling of the play was enhanced a lot. I did not notice before as I ride hard and medium. The play feels like 2cm (measured top of the seat), but when I measure on the tire it is more like 4mm play. When looking and feeling with my hand on the slider I see no movement at all. 

I really hope it is the sliders as there is a solution for that, but I am afraid it is not. If it is in the motor, it could be firmware, slow reading of the hall sensor,  or physical play in the motor.

Doubt it’s firmware as mine doesn’t have this play, knock on wood.

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8 hours ago, EUCzero said:

Begode actually admitted on facebook a week ago.

What are the details? Are you just getting a replacement or is it a completely redesigned part again? Which parts are you getting?

Have the link to the FB post?

Edited by Rawnei
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Have we discussed this one here yet ? Poor old Lectric has had a nasty fall, and looked back to find his Master aflame !

Some people in comments there linking the cold screen thing to this MB fire, which happened after a cutout on a foggy morning in London recently to this poor guy. Sounding like a condensation-based short to me so far, but we lack enough information, so it's pretty much guesswork.

What was interesting about this one for me was that he kept his wheel in a cold garage - I wonder if that might have led to condensation somewhere as the board warmed up, or cooled down again in the 3/4 hour it was off while he flew his drone. 

Now, I was unlucky enough to be caught on my Master in its first 2 big rides out in horrendous rain, and generally moist air, and parked mine up, covered in a plastic bag during the worst of it.

I waited for half an hour, decided the rain wasn't going to ease, so risked the 11 km journey home in similar torrential downpour, and the Master did not cut out on me, so I am wondering what the difference could have been. Mine is kept indoors, and was left on all the time it rested, so my motherboard possibly stayed at a consistent temperature for the whole ride.

Do we think that could have been what made the difference in his having a cutout, and mine not ?

 

Edited by Cerbera
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1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Have we discussed this one here yet ? Poor old Lectric has had a nasty fall, and looked back to find his Master aflame !

Some people in comments there linking the cold screen thing to this MB fire, which happened after a cutout on a foggy morning in London recently to this poor guy. Sounding like a condensation-based short to me so far, but we lack enough information, so it's pretty much guesswork.

What was interesting about this one for me was that he kept his wheel in a cold garage - I wonder if that might have led to condensation somewhere as the board warmed up, or cooled down again in the 3/4 hour it was off while he flew his drone. 

Now, I was unlucky enough to be caught on my Master in its first 2 big rides out in horrendous rain, and generally moist air, and parked mine up, covered in a plastic bag during the worst of it.

I waited for half an hour, decided the rain wasn't going to ease, so risked the 11 km journey home in similar torrential downpour, and the Master did not cut out on me, so I am wondering what the difference could have been. Mine is kept indoors, and was left on all the time it rested, so my motherboard possibly stayed at a consistent temperature for the whole ride.

Do we think that could have been what made the difference in his having a cutout, and mine not ?

 

I doubt there is could enough to do that yet in UK, but the moist air is pushed inside the mobo by the gap I showed on the previous picture. Especially if the "seal" is not aligned perfectly. Mine isn't I know this for a fact. It came a bit ripped from factory.

If the wheel is standing still I don't think it is very sensitive to water with intact parts (not sure about panel area?), but riding in rain.. oh no no. I have all covered anyway, don't need a display with helmet mounted HUD.

I got my Grizzla's today and start to fix the wheel soon enough, I'll take a few photos of the places I'm sealing. Gotta make the wheel powder snow and water proof.

Edited by Kutvelo
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Hmm. In the case of my V2 the cables seem to completely fill the gap but don't have the rubber seal there. Perhaps that is how I have got away with it so far ?

 

Having said that, there is that massive open hole right next to it, so who knows what's getting where...

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On 10/19/2022 at 2:53 PM, Cerbera said:

...

Lastly for today, I have ordered a Michelin City Extra 80-90-14, which I will probably fit shortly after it arrives, rather than waiting for the CST to wear down to more relaxing and comfortable levels..

Where can I get one???

On 10/23/2022 at 4:24 PM, mrelwood said:

Personally I didn’t like the City Extra all that much, but it sure fits city riding so much better than the C-186!

Any other city riding options to recommend?  Anyone try this?

Amazon.com: Pirelli Angel Front Scooter Tire (90/80-14) : Automotive

On 10/23/2022 at 6:03 PM, Silver said:

I like the Kenda 340A Ewheels put on there Masters so far.

My stock Kenda 340A from eWheels bounces.  Its not round.  The bead around the rim is noticeably off to one side but I've not been able to squash-reinflate or run enough distance at < 25 psi to even it out.  So as it is its amplifying the speed wobbles and the shaking becomes disconcerting over 35mph.  I can still go faster on my S22.  

What is the best city tire for the Master???

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39 minutes ago, Elliott Reitz said:

Where can I get one???

Well I got mine off these guys, as they are in the UK where I am; not sure how much that helps you in the US though !

I have not tried it yet - my Master died before I had a chance to fit it, but I'll put it on when (hopefully) the new motor arrives.

I bought it because it was the next evolution on from the City Pro, which has a great reputation.

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6 hours ago, Elliott Reitz said:

Where can I get one???

Any other city riding options to recommend?  Anyone try this?

Amazon.com: Pirelli Angel Front Scooter Tire (90/80-14) : Automotive

My stock Kenda 340A from eWheels bounces.  Its not round.  The bead around the rim is noticeably off to one side but I've not been able to squash-reinflate or run enough distance at < 25 psi to even it out.  So as it is its amplifying the speed wobbles and the shaking becomes disconcerting over 35mph.  I can still go faster on my S22.  

What is the best city tire for the Master???

The tire will NOT even out by riding. You have to deflate it, and realign it by hand. Pump it up fully and then some more, then deflate again and do it agan.

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23 hours ago, EUCzero said:

The tire will NOT even out by riding. You have to deflate it, and realign it by hand. Pump it up fully and then some more, then deflate again and do it agan.

Yea, It's tolerable at 13psi (while risking my motor).  At 20psi its still bouncy but I did do 38mph with it like that today.  I had a simlar situation with the Kenda K262 that I put on my old S18.  It has over 2000 miles on it and has barely evened out.  At first it was so bad I sucked under 20mph.  By squashing I got it so I only feel it over 25 and since that wheel's so anemically powered I rarely am bothered by it. 

But with the I'm finding that the out-a-round amplifies the speed wobbles over 30mph and I have no expectation that I can make it any better.  I can't even get the bead-mark to line up evenly.  

On 10/27/2022 at 9:50 AM, Cerbera said:

Well I got mine off these guys, as they are in the UK where I am; not sure how much that helps you in the US though !

I have not tried it yet - my Master died before I had a chance to fit it, but I'll put it on when (hopefully) the new motor arrives.

I bought it because it was the next evolution on from the City Pro, which has a great reputation.

Thanks.  I got this reply on YT from Aivar Ilumets:  
Hi, Here in the video is a Pirelli Angel scooter 90/80 14, but later I changed the multi-season Heidenau K66 90/90 14. I bought them from a local store in Estonia, but they can be ordered from all over the world. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dCQWwxw2JiCLrBGL6  &   https://photos.app.goo.gl/dgU2NaEbWXjJdDh47

So I just ordered the Pirelli from ebay:  Pirelli Angel Scooter Tire 90/80-14 49S Front or Rear Bias Reinforced Tubeless | eBay

And the valve stems:  2PCS BENT VALVE STEM 45 DEGREE ANGLE FOR SCOOTER TUBELESS TIRES | eBay

Reply
PS:  I put pics of my Seat for the Master on FB Electric Unicycle Club groub here:  GotWay Electric Unicycle Community | Facebook

Edited by Elliott Reitz
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