Cerbera Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 3 minutes ago, Topkek said: How do you determine if you have this slack, does it affect the ride mode? I feel like if I keep lifting it from the shock mount and front light it might cause this slack. This is a very long thread, but if you scroll back maybe 10 pages or so, and try and find the bit where we all discuss the sliders, there's a couple of vids where they demonstrate how to grab and move the machine to determine if you have the slack or not. But I don't think picking up the wheel as described would cause or exacerbate the problem. Though it will screw your back I really try very hard not to pick mine up at all ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 (edited) Training Day 6, and today is the first day I feel like the Master isn't having a say in where we go ! At last, I may have built enough muscle power to tuck it round those tight little turns and correct it when it wants to veer off in a direction while the movements are still small. And thanks to reminders here finally got to play with my modes, which are fully controllable within EUC world, so still haven't felt need to download Gotway app so far ! I like Medium, because it is a bit easier acceleration from standstill, and doesn't pedal dip too badly, whilst still making the ride quite soft and comfortable, though at the expense of some braking power I see ! Did a lot of terrain transitions today - pavement to road, road to sand, gravel to grass etc etc, and this wheel is phased by none of it - I don't get any of the sudden changes in pedal behaviour that others have reported - even in deep mud it exerts a level of grip authority I have never quite known before. Another day, another whole lot more to love ! Also, another 2 people felt the need to make 'rockin it dude' type comments as I wheeled past, but in the interests of fairness, an old woman also had to watch me make a desperate grab for a passing lamp post, and then some highly comical body extension moves as I slightly misjudged a target distance ! So not quite 100% cool yet then Also got bounced off my pedals once by a particularly unfortunate combination of exceptionally lumpy driveway contours, but my recent 1-legged balance practisings allowed me to recover without a drop. Talking of pedals, now finding it much easier to adjust foot position in-ride, which is helpful. Edited October 20, 2022 by Cerbera 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCzero Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 On 10/17/2022 at 10:47 PM, EMA said: don't wast your time with stock shock, it's garbage, get a simple coil and you'll be surprised So many say do not waste your time getting a new shock without a new linkage as well. And then we are talking money I do not have. The Master was expensive enough. I do not hav 500 dollars more just laying around. So I need the original to work for now. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted October 20, 2022 Share Posted October 20, 2022 1 hour ago, EUCzero said: I do not hav 500 dollars more just laying around. So I need the original to work for now. In that case an air volume decreasing spacer inside the original shock is your best bet to make it work decently. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimm10 Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 I noticed early on that my wheel had the "dead zone", "free play", "rocking motion", "looseness" or whatever anyone wants to call it. I found that switching the ride mode from soft to hard reduced the free play significantly. Did anyone else notice the as well? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Grimm10 said: I noticed early on that my wheel had the "dead zone", "free play", "rocking motion", "looseness" or whatever anyone wants to call it. I found that switching the ride mode from soft to hard reduced the free play significantly. Did anyone else notice the as well? No, that's an altogether different kind of looseness, and that one is intentional, designed to soften acceleration and braking. I can see how you'd confuse them but they are not the same. The looseness caused by hardware remains whatever the ride mode is doing. Edited October 21, 2022 by Cerbera 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UtahRider Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) 12 hours ago, Topkek said: Mine hits 134.4v on green (molicell), then I take it off. Are you supposed to leave on green, how do you know when to take it off? When I hit 50 and try to brake hard I get wobbles. Maybe I have too much air in shock and tire not sure. Using the stock pads. I keep charging 2-3 more hours once charger turns green to balance cells. There’s differing opinion on how often this should be done, I balance cells at least once a week, not every charge. There’s nothing in the apps that you can verify cell balancing but a few hours should do it. I don’t get wobbles. Maybe try carving while you break, seems to work for me, I think it’s just experience on the wheel, you’ll eventually figure out a method to eliminate wobbles. Practice more! Edited October 21, 2022 by UtahRider 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCzero Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 17 hours ago, Topkek said: How do you determine if you have this slack, does it affect the ride mode? I feel like if I keep lifting it from the shock mount and front light it might cause this slack. No. It is a forward/backward play/slack. Just turn on your wheel. Grab it on the seat and push it quickly forward and backwards a few times just a few cm/inches. If you feel or see no slack in the forward and backward movement, you are lucky. Then again. Why look for trouble if it does not already annoy you. Because it WILL annoy you after when you know you have it 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EMA Posted October 21, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) i'm working on a better fix for who has play/slack, done some maintenance on my wheel and printed some tools in tpu to help, plan to do a video on it.done some trails yesterday, it works even better than before: (the "squeak" noise removed after this clip ) Edited October 21, 2022 by EMA 5 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 5 minutes ago, EMA said: i'm working on a better fix for who has play/slack, done some maintenance on my wheel and printed some tools in tpu to help, plan to do a video on it. Very interesting, looking forward to it, does it remove slack completely? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 9 minutes ago, Rawnei said: Very interesting, looking forward to it, does it remove slack completely? it will eliminate the slack from the bushings and the pillars which is 99% of the job, you still have a really really small minimal play due to the tollerance between the tube inside the bushing. i didn't even tight the side screws, maximum smoothness from sliders i can barely feel if i want to with a gentle pendolum, impossible to feel while riding 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 47 minutes ago, EMA said: it will eliminate the slack from the bushings and the pillars which is 99% of the job, you still have a really really small minimal play due to the tollerance between the tube inside the bushing. i didn't even tight the side screws, maximum smoothness from sliders i can barely feel if i want to with a gentle pendolum, impossible to feel while riding I will hold you to your words. 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kutvis Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) I haven't been able to ride more than 20metres on my wheel. Got a lot of things to fix before it can be deemed as roadworthy. One of first things is the slack in the sliders, it is outrageous! I have no chanse to ride it like that, I did tighten the upper screws which helped a bit.. but the lower ones can't be tightened unless the hangers are taken out. I think I have to get some other solution as mentioned before such as small contact film between bearing(bushing) and attaching rod (not the sliding side). The slack is real and horrid. Waiting @EMA solution Edited October 21, 2022 by Kutvelo 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Kutvelo said: I haven't been able to ride more than 20metres on my wheel. Got a lot of things to fix before it can be deemed as roadworthy. One of first things is the slack in the sliders, it is outrageous! I have no chanse to ride it like that, I did tighten the upper screws which helped a bit.. but the lower ones can't be tightened unless the hangers are taken out. I think I have to get some other solution as mentioned before such as small contact film between bearing(bushing) and attaching rod (not the sliding side). The slack is real and horrid. Waiting @EMA solution If you let the air out of the shock absorber and push the sliders up, then you can get close to the screw!? Only one screw on the side of the slider needs to be adjusted Edited October 21, 2022 by Raptor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kutvis Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 Just now, Raptor said: If you let the air out of the shock absorber and push the sliders up, then you can get close to the screw!? I can? there is 2 of them, the one on bottom is so close to pedal hanger it can't be turned or then I'm all on the wrong screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 Just now, Kutvelo said: I can? there is 2 of them, the one on bottom is so close to pedal hanger it can't be turned or then I'm all on the wrong screws Only one screw on the side of the slider needs to be adjusted 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kutvis Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 Just now, Raptor said: Only one screw on the side of the slider needs to be adjusted Ohh, I did tighten the ones on top of the wheel all the way and it did solidify it a bit, but it still is completely horrible. I can feel the slack on bottom of the wheel when I move it. I just got it, gotta look more into this subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Kutvelo said: Ohh, I did tighten the ones on top of the wheel all the way and it did solidify it a bit, but it still is completely horrible. I can feel the slack on bottom of the wheel when I move it. I just got it, gotta look more into this subject. You only need to adjust one screw at the top and the other at the bottom, which is on the side of the slider!!! Edited October 21, 2022 by Raptor 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kutvis Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 2 minutes ago, Raptor said: You only need to adjust one screw at the top and the other at the bottom, which is on the side of the slider!!! Exactly, I tought I need to remove pedal hangar to adjust the one on bottom. I'll remove air, ty for tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 4 minutes ago, Kutvelo said: Exactly, I tought I need to remove pedal hangar to adjust the one on bottom. I'll remove air, ty for tip! you can see in my picture that I haven't taken anything. I just pushed the pedals down and then access is free! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kutvis Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 1 minute ago, Raptor said: you can see in my picture that I haven't taken anything. I just pushed the pedals down and then access is free! Aye, I'll do that next! After will do some velcro on pads and test as OG, then will swap new links and shock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UtahRider Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 14 minutes ago, Kutvelo said: Aye, I'll do that next! After will do some velcro on pads and test as OG, then will swap new links and shock What new link shock did you get? Please let us know how well it works when done, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raptor Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) 7 minutes ago, UtahRider said: What new link shock did you get? Please let us know how well it works when done, thanks. This loosening was also very unpleasant for me, and at first I couldn't understand where the slack was coming from. After adjusting the sliders on both sides, top and bottom, there is absolutely no slack felt or heard. To adjust, open at least one end of the shock absorber! Adjust by constantly moving the sliders! Otherwise, there is a risk that you will screw it too tight and the movement of the sliders will be jammed! It takes a long time, but it pays off! My Master is now quiet when driving like a proper car and the suspension is extremely comfortable! I made this video because some people on this forum didn't believe that the Master could get rid of this loosening. I showed that it can be done! Edited October 21, 2022 by Raptor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 31 minutes ago, Raptor said: This loosening was also very unpleasant for me, and at first I couldn't understand where the slack was coming from. After adjusting the sliders on both sides, top and bottom, there is absolutely no slack felt or heard. To adjust, open at least one end of the shock absorber! Adjust by constantly moving the sliders! Otherwise, there is a risk that you will screw it too tight and the movement of the sliders will be jammed! It takes a long time, but it pays off! My Master is now quiet when driving like a proper car and the suspension is extremely comfortable! I made this video because some people on this forum didn't believe that the Master could get rid of this loosening. I showed that it can be done! Hey now, maybe it worked for you but doesn't work for a lot of people, perhaps there is different tolerances on these parts making it random. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EMA Posted October 21, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted October 21, 2022 that's what i've done, you can find the stl file here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/f9e9a6nzohb9lh2/AACKmfN4XqpIoexfK3fFAEyWa?dl=0 it's a 2 layer ring, 0.3 + 0.5 , 0.8mm total YT description (hope it's clear, still processing): https://youtu.be/tNaiEbNTRhM 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.