meepmeepmayer

I'm wondering if this will be a foot pain trophy or a "I can't hold it in any longer!!" trophy or just a "Well the battery is empty now" trophy. Cool idea!

This has been split off on request:

EcoDrift has a first article up about the V13! Unboxing and a first look. https://ecodrift-ru.translate.goog/2022/12/30/inmotion-v13-challenger-vneshnij-vid/?_x_tr_sl=ru&_x_tr_tl=en Really looking forward to their inevitable disassembly!

There is simply no time for any safety mechanism to kick in. A sudden strong acceleration that overleans you (which you pretty much only can do near the top speed, which you did) is going to happen too fast for any beep to sound or tiltback to kick in. You might very well have been a bit below the speed beeps, and then accelerated and that was too much. Four solutions for this problem (in general) I can think of: (Bad) Make wheels warn like 20kph earlier than they now do, to have a bigger safety margin for accelerations at speed. Then the S22 would be a 50kph max wheel (Best) Make wheels so absurdly fast that nobody would ever go that fast (is that possible?) and there you have your safety margin! (Good) Maybe high discharge cells can fix this issue! If you have less voltage drop just from the acceleration, you will have more time for warnings I guess. (Reality) Just don't accelerate hard if you are ~20kph or less close to the usual beeping top speed of the wheel.

Nice area though.

Nice, I need some real lights (not what the manufacturers call lights) for my future wheel (and my existing one!). Will have a closer look at these. Though they don't seem to be available in continental Europe?

Is the tire "blocked" or does it rotate freely? This sounds very much like the jump (or rather the landing) fried your board, and you need a new board. Can you contact your seller about this?

Is the Pro name official, or just something a dealer made up?

Charging a too empty battery might start a fire, though. So make sure the voltage isn't too low.

Contact your seller (if you bought new) before you do work yourself. This may just be a broken power button, but in the end it's not supposed to happen.

Does the power button work reliably when you switch the wheel on?

This thread is a year old and the V12 seems to be good now. Unpinned.

You're right. I wonder if these wheels will be loud in use, especially if some dirt gets to them.

Looks robust (to my amateur eyes), clean, simple. Liking it!! Do we know what motor they use on this one? EX30 vs. this will be interesting! Which suspension design will people prefer?

If you do the math, you get roughly 220Wh/kg for how much batteries weigh. 18XL would be ~7kg heavier (my estimate... 6kg just for the cells, and 1 kg for the rest) if you double the battery size to 3200Wh (exactly the same battery size as the original Sherman).

King Song electrical engineers being surprised by the existence of electrical interference... time truly is a flat circle

Guys, ride the original Sherman at max speed and see how far you get. Same battery size. Speed eats battery and that is never going to change. The V13 battery is borderline small if you really want to go close to 90kph a lot. Also, obligatory standard disclaimer: Speedy Feet range tests always get atrocious range. Not sure if it is how he rides (fast) or the temperature or a curse, that's how it always is, just a fact of life. Just add 35% or whatever to get what everyone else gets. In his latest video, Marty got 90 miles = 145km on his Master Pro (over 50% more battery than V13) down to the beeps, and he mostly went between 25-30mph = 40-50kph, not that fast, also in cold weather. That makes roughly 60 miles = 95-100km with the V13 battery size. Now floor it (lean it?) and guess what range you get then. The numbers are what you expect, both from the battery size and from Speedy Feet range tests which are always the lowest of the low end.

A checkbox was checked and now there should be no more e-mails. I don't suppose anybody actually wants the "Mark as solution" functionality to be enabled?

The HT did not have the bad problems. That was just the HS, which is fixed now. Both should be really good now.

Should be an easy repair if you do it yourself. Probably not worth it to ship in any case. The Bluetooth board is the small blue board on top of the actual board, see picture (right in the center). It's just plug in - plug out (plus maybe some glue/goop), very easy to replace. Opening the wheel on the top to get to the board is the main work, but not too bad either. Wait until you hear from your seller before you do anything. At the very least they should send you a new Bluetooth board and say the warranty will continue if you do the repair yourself. Also, try another phone, just to be sure that your phone isn't the culprit. Tiny chance, but who knows... Picture taken from here, where you can also see that opening the top to get to the board is just a few screws. Search for "We start to disassemble", there you can see how it's done. There's also a few Master disassembly videos on Youtube, so you can see what you might have to do. You're in the "This sucks!" phase of new EUC ownership. It happens sometimes (often?) with the state of our wheels, but be assured, once the initial problems are overcome, you will have a lot of fun and these little troubles are forgotten

Can you get an easy repair/replacement from your dealer? It's no big issue, but with a brand new wheel it's the seller's job to deliver it in 100% working order. Sounds to me like the Bluetooth board (it's an extra small board on top of the main one) is defect or loose (or missing?).

Hi, I made this into its own thread, you will probably get more help this way.

Today I got such an email. Exactly the same thing. Seems this is still ongoing. Anybody else got such reminder e-mails from the forum? We'll report this as a bug to the Invision people.

It's called Watt-hour (Wh) and it's literally a measurement of the energy content (dare I call that "work capacity") of the battery - I honestly have no idea what motor wattage numbers are supposed to mean and how the manufacturers come up with that number. They have used different numbers for the same motor, so maybe it's the theoretical throughput of the motor+board combination? But then shouldn't they be higher? Continuous throughput? My issue is: a "better" motor (more watts, whatever they mean) would give a worse result because you can use it to empty the battery faster (can you?). So until the manufacturers tell us how they come up with the motor wattages, I'm not convinced that battery size/motor power is an overly meaningful number. But who knows, maybe it is? If it works, it works. I'm staying with "More Wh = more range", and everything else (e.g. efficiency differences) is second tier to that. Let's do the (pessimistic for the ShermaS) math: Sherman-S: 192 cells * 3.6V * 4.9mAh per cell = 3386.9Wh V13: 240 cells * 3.6V * 3500mAh per cell = 3024Wh. That gives +12% to the Sherman-S, and so I'm expecting it to have 12% more range than the V13. What does the motor power comparison predict here? (I don't know the motor wattages for either wheel.)

I split this off because I think it is too little on-topic and too much political rambling.