meepmeepmayer

@US69 Was hältst Du von der Idee, mal einen eigenen "German Legal Discussion and Issues" Thread zu machen? Dann können wir 95% der Posts dahin verschieben (bzw. die Ausnahmeposts in eine neue German Discussion Group und den hier umbenennen, ist leider einfacher) und der Thread hier ist nicht dauernd damit zugemüllt. Geht mir langsam auf den Senkel hier...

Für einrädrige selbstbalancierende Fahrzeuge gibt es vermutlich eine Gesetzeslücke, weswegen es keine Zulassung und Pflichtversicherung (und damit kein Pflicht) gibt. Siehe "Grosskopf" (hier im Thread von hinten nach vorne suchen, sind nur 80 Seiten) . Ich würde warten bis was von der Staatsanwaltschaft kommt, die Polizei hat da eh nix zu melden. Dann sieht man weiter was wirklich Sache ist. Sieht so aus als hättest du keinen Führerschein und das ist deren eigentliches Problem. Stimmt das? Theoretisch braucht man wohl für jedes KFZ (in der Hinsicht scheinen EUCs solche zu sein, anders als bei Zulassung usw) nen Führerschein. Ja so etwa. Glaube man braucht auch ein paar Upvotes. Hab ich mal gemacht.

It has very good image stabilization, absolutely no shaking, making it (like you rightly said) look cg-like. I'd guess a (pricier) gimbal is involved.

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All you need to do is open up a wheel and see. The only gyro-something there is the tilt sensor (which is essentially the same tilt sensor you find in smartphones, as @esaj said). The only thing ever acting as a stabilizing gyroscope (= something spinning) is the part of the motor-tire-assembly that spins when riding (which is the tire, the outer rim of the motor, and the side cover plates of the motor). But that only stabilizes in the sideways direction (left-right), not the front-back direction the motor controls. Also, I don't see what a real gyroscope would be stabilizing? A EUC is always in a dynamic state around an equillibrium, and any stabilization would be counter-productive then, wouldn't it? There's never really a final, stable state a gyro could stabilize, any state will have to be modified very soon and the gyro would mean it's more work to do that. It essentially would defeat itself, as I understand it. Here's the inside of my ACM (the other side only has the second battery pack). As you can see, just a board (with one of the chips being the gyro sensor, measuring the tilt) on a heatsink, some cables to the motor and battery (and lights and switch and speaker and whatnot), and no other (gyroscopic) parts. Same as with every other electric unicycle or self-balancing device you can buy There isn't anything hidden inside the motors, too.

How about trying the msX there? Its tire is wider than the Monster's, after all. Might be interesting to see how well it really fares.

Deleting the app won't do anything because that won't change the setting that is already saved in the wheel, which the app has changed. Use the official Gotway app to set alarms, as Darknessbot apparently doesn't work properly for this. "Open all alarms" followed by "default alarms" will reset to default ("default alarms" alone doesn't do anything). I always recommend doing a lift test once you've configured the wheel, to confirm everything works as intended. Put the wheel between your legs and lift it and see (in an app) at which speeds the speed alarms and the tiltback (can be felt as a jolt) appear. Do you have a 84V ACM (1300 or 1600Wh) or 67.2V ACM (the smaller ones)?

Yea, the current situation is confusing. KS have serious issues (lift sensor, bricking firmware, apparently catastrophic app) that one wouldn't expect with their experience. Inmotion have serious issues (overheating, water intrusion) that one wouldn't expect with their experience. And Gotway... everything just works. Has there been a single complaint about an msuper X or MCM5? They just work, powerfully. Feels like I'm in opposite land. I firmly believe, though, that if Gotway ever release a wheel and app that allows firmware updates like KS and IM do and have other features like their apps (like actually knowing which wheel is connected), the sheer awfulness, irresponsibility, how-could-anyone-do-this-and-think-it's-ok, and disaster will manifest into a physical form and spell the end of the world or tear reality or something KS and IM go smarter (more elaborate and thought out construction and limits), GW overengineer and call it a day. For now, seems like the second way is working out better.

That was all? It feels firm like on the first day? Thanks for the update!

Sure It was so late, I figured I might as well wait an hour and get the live experience. I liked the part where you two answered the beginner questions (foot stance). You should make that the focus of a future episode, it seemed helpful.

That was wonderful to watch! From having the mountains in the hazy distance to going right into them! I love when that happens on my riding as well, from a destination far away to passing it. Also nice tour of the infrastructure. Wish there was a 16 incher with 3000+Wh and good electronics and a 3 inch tire

Thank you!

@palachzzz Appreciate very much your effort into keeping Wheellog alive and up-to date Without Wheellog, having to use the official apps, would be a significant reduction in ride experience with our wheels! A question: What is the Gotway formula? Do they just go linearly, aka 3.2V = 0%, 3.3V = 10%, 3.4V = 20% ... 4.2V = 100% (or some other linear progression)? Or is it nonlinear with some empiric values from a table? I would be very interested in such technical details, so if you have them... And an explanation: As a (Gotway) rider, I don't care so much about how much battery % in terms of Watthours used and Wh left I have. What is important for me, how far am I away from the 15% voltage (3.35V?) where the low battery beeps and slowdowns start and where I have some experience how much range I have left before the battery is empty. For example, I know approaching 30% "battery" under no load means the 15% beeps are coming very soon under load. So knowing when beeps and slowdown start exactly and reliably is more important than knowing Wh used, because the wheel beeps depend on voltage, not Wh used. That's what @Marty Backe means. An idea: maybe instead of having one "battery %" reading, have two. One in the old-style, with the inaccurate Gotway-formula which is exact for the beeps, and another one with a formula that is more accurate in counting the Wh used and estimating the Wh left. So for example: * Battery (voltage): 31% * Battery (Wh): 23% (Numbers taken from the post above this one, same battery charge state)

Interesting that the EcoDrift guys see the Z's low voltage responsible for the high weight of the wheel. Can anybody shed some light on the technical background for this? Why do higher voltages allow using less metal? Because the currents are lower to achieve the same power? -- Here are the other EcoDrift Ninebot One Z articles if these haven't been posted before: A first look: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2018%2F08%2F09%2Fpriehal-ninebot-z6-nachalo-ne-zaladilos%2F&edit-text= Disassembly: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=de&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2018%2F08%2F10%2Fninebot-z6-razbiraem-izmeryaem-i-vzveshivaem%2F&edit-text=

I always pictured to be anonymized in style, Hunka should get the Laughing Man treatment. The perfect futuristic-cool, fitting our wheels. You have a plugin for that?

I have no words, except... lol indeed.

Not sure if this has been mentioned here already, but Speedyfeet lists the Z10 as preorder for 2000 GBP = 2200€. Better Euro price than I expected (2500). No definitive date. https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/collections/electric-unicycle/products/ninebot-one-z10

Reminds me of my mud runs. A knobby tire is perfect for this kind of ride through mud, wet grass, and other soft surfaces.

@fbhb ****, nice! Where is this?

I don't understand why you are keeping the ms3. The two ACM2 I can understand, one nice one and one to bang up and not worry about on mountains, but what's the point of the ms3 when you have the msX with so much better electronics and tire? Sooner or later, you'll need space for another wheel. They won't stop releasing shiny new ones, you know But one can see you're happy from the photo So good on you! Wondering when GW comes out with their next wheel, must be any minute now...

Nice, Marty, nice! You're living everyone's dream here

I will agree with you on that as soon as Ninebot builds a wheel that brakes as the Gotways do Maybe that's just a firmware update away, but somehow I wouldn't bet on it (if only because the Ninebot engineers wouldn't risk enough even if it was easily possible). I think you should to the Mt. Wilson tour or something like this with your Z, where you have to grab the wheel a lot. To see if you can force it like you can with GWs. That should also show how strong it really is under higher stresses. Also, is the msX the redheaded stepwheel at the moment?

Gripping the wheel will be counter-productive as it tenses your muscles, which leads to the feedback loop problem that is the wobble. Do everything to stand as relaxed and comfortable as you can. Go by feeling, not how you think you should stand on the wheel (most of all, foot stance. E.g. stop at a pole/signpost and correct your foot positioning). Relaxed = no wobble. Comes with experience and good stance.

@RockyTop Before I saw your name, I was sure it was a @Hunka Hunka Burning Love post. He must be a bit slow with his recent crash... or outsourcing

Great video!