meepmeepmayer

The 4% number you quoted from me is wrong (math error) but everything doesn't seem to be too exact anyways. But it's significant. I always noticed having less range starting from 100% than when the charger was in overnight, that's the explanation. If the reverse diode makes it worse AND you can't even charge to 84V (or can you?), that's a bummer.

For Gotway, 4.1125V per cell is full (see here), so that would be 82.25V for 100%. So keeping the charger in after 100% to get to 84V can make a multiple mile difference on a big battery wheel.

Modifying the charger sounds dangerous. Accidentally plug it into another wheel and you might start a nice fire. @Marty Backe Thanks or the info. Looks like it may depend on the specific diode maybe? One would need a charge doctor or similar energy counting gizmo to test how much more it charges after the light goes green, and if wheels with vs. without diode show a difference how much you can charge after the green light.

Is it really true that the reverse diode @Jason McNeilrequested limits the charging? Gotway wheels already consider themselves 100% full at around 4.1V per cell, so that's more than 5% usable battery/real range lost compared to 4.2V. But you can charge to 4.2V by keeping the charger in for an hour or two after it has gone green. If the reverse diode really stops that and 98% is the max, that comes out to ~10% usable battery capacity/real range lost!!! I'm hoping from the rest of the video (where he indeed is "no engineer") that it's not true. Can these special ewheels Gotways with the reverse diode be charged to 4.2V? You have such an msX, any idea? Otherwise it's a great video, you're right that his enthusiasm really shows. He's also a great figurehead for possible new riders.

Do you have a quote or image? I'd like that in cold print. But that would make the 2400Wh new Monster the best Monster.

Shouldn't every BMS switch off charging if the current is too high?

The @ thing does not work at all on my Android phone. Desktop, always. So don't be surprised if it's not there for mobile devices.

All you talking about repairing the camera... I thought this "accident" was all Marty's devious plan so he "had to" get the new X. Or are we not supposed to talk about the plan and pretend otherwise? In that case, sorry I wasn't informed or paid enough to keep quiet. Anyways, that latest vlog video really showed that these 360 cameras are fantastic. I agree with Marty's sentiment and hope he doesn't sooner or later stab anyone behind a corner with his stick held in front.

By "how to build" I meant not confusing the GX-connector pin layout, using thick enough wires, etc. I very much agree with the 5A limitation, on Gotways more is asking for trouble anyways and you rarely need a faster charger for any wheel (and if you do, you can always get an extra one). If you're interested in a possible alternative, look at the chargers being sold on 1radwerkstatt.de (you probably did that already long ago but I figured I should mention it). Also a generic model than can be adapted to different voltages, charging currents, etc, and a bit less fancy (no nice display or control knob), but it exists. Hey that is important (and good) to know! That info is very well hidden on the site (and not to be found on the fast charger page). With pretty much any wheel, cable thickness vs. charging current is the only concern. Batteries are always far below anything interesting, as you did the math for.

Yes. The only problem is the non-matching plug (GX16-4 vs Lenovo thing, I assume you have the Gotway version, but ewheels also sells the charger with a Lenovo plug fitted). So if you can build an adapter cable (GX16-4 input to Lenovo output), yes, one 5A charger works for 84V Gotways (without adapter) and the 18L/XL (with the adapter). Someone more knowledgable must say whether such an adapter can be bought somewhere or how exactly to build it. Should be just two plugs connected by thick enough cables. There's a nice picture of the different "ends" on the ewheels site: https://www.ewheels.com/product/ewheels-84-2v-rapid-chargers/ Actually, if @Jason McNeil offered such a adapters, I'm sure a lot of people would like that One charger could be used for a lot of different wheels. Also here's a thread with more info on the 18L/XL charging:

That's a really good point. There can be too much of a protrusion and then it will impede sliding. I guess the Flexmeters are officially the best then

In the U.S, try ewheels.com (email or call and ask).

And how many of these were really car accidents because a car was involved (and more likely than not the guilty party)? "Scooter accidents" my ass. Couldn't agree more with your post. These days (also with the ridiculous situation in Germany) I'm getting more and more incited to start throwing bricks at car windshields from some highway bridge

Yep, write an email to Ian from Speedyfeet (info@speedyfeet.uk) and ask how well it works shipping to Brazil. But the site says free worldwide shipping. Airwheel is shit (small battery) and the price is crazy? Ninebot is ok but outdated and the price is not too good. Both very old models. Also check AliExpress sellers "Rockwheel Store" and "green and fashion travalling store", they might have some good offers on 11.11. (China discount day). Check the Commercial Advertisements & Deals subforum for such possible offers: https://forum.electricunicycle.org/forum/18-commercial-advertisements-deals/ That would help to find the best wheel for you.

Can you make a picture comparing the width of both wheels, please? They never really show how thin or thick the S5 is. Also if you want to post some detail shots, we have no real pictures of the thing. Great to hear of a different experience. If the S5 works as advertised, it's a pretty cool wheel! Is the S5 as nicely carryable as the i5 (given its weight)? This suitcase form factor has some definitve promise!

Oh wow you got hit on all fronts. Battery has issues, too? Dang

Given that they often use a year old motors in some wheels, that's pretty brazen. Though the price is outright cheap compared to other options, so I guess it's your best bet (what about shipping, though?). Speedyfeet and Jason didn't work out? It's either that or a (more expensive) battery-less new wheel.

By cross country I mean with the wheels. Not necessarily in winter. I think "cross-country" can have some other meaning, but I didn't mean that, my bad You mean with the wheels? That would be dreamy.

Nice pictures. That looks like a place than can get very cold. Would it be possible to go cross-country there on these meadows, or rather not?

I'm not saying the D3O doesn't help. I just think it doesn't do very much. It's just stuff that gets hard under stress. It's essentially very advanced cushioning foam, the way it is utilized in a EUC crash. But that's it. It's still a thin layer. Multiple cm of D3O would be something different. What counts for dampening impacts is a big crumple zone (the widely protruding u-shaped slide plate and then the cushioning foam inside the guards). Actually in doubt, I'd rather have your Triple 8 guards than the Flexmeters, because the triple 8 slide plate actually sticks out and can bend inwards, the Flexmeter one sits mostly flat on the guard. Broken wrists seem to come from overextending/overbending the wrist. That happens more if you fall to the side (think snowboard) and hit the ground with your wrist already bent than the way you hit the ground in a EUC crash (superman forwards, wrists straight, mostly unbent). We've heard of so many shoulder injuries from the impact moving up the arm, can't recall a broken wrist from a reported crash. Well, that's my theory at least, didn't test it, obviously. The Flexmeters are explicitly designed to move the force from your wrist up to your forearm and arm to protect the fragile wrist bones (meant for snowboarding). Hence their long form so they can bend at the wrist and your arm takes part of that force. That's nice for your wrists, but bad for the shoulder if you hit hard. A big crumple zone and sliding forwards instead of the ground pushing against you lowers the force of impact in the first place. My ideal "wrist" guards (really palm and shoulder guards for EUCs, with wrist protection a secondary purpose, because I think overextending the wrists is a secondary problem with EUCs) would literally have an inch thick crumple zone between the slide plate and the guard itself. Make it from D3O or just foam, I want thickness.

Maybe we need to start an international Flexmeter smuggling ring Or maybe @EcoDrift should import a batch and sell them. I don't think the Flexmeters would interfere with your elbow guards. The Flexmeters are <25cm long so they don't cover too much of your lower arm. Maybe 15cm or so from where the wrist bends. Not sure what you mean with "two plates". You mean it covers both sides off the arm, underside and top? -- What is important is impact protection. When your palm hits the ground, it needs to dampen the impact. So that's what the slide plate is for. First it bends and cushions the first impact. Then it slides forward so your arms are not pushed into your shoulder. D3O really doesn't help for that. The best protection against hitting something is lot of thickness between you and what you hit. Like a car. If you hit something frontally, the motor etc get destroyed but the rider is fine. If something hits your car from the driver side, you will be hurt because there's nothing between you that can get compressed (only thin car door). D3O isn't thick, so it doesn't help much. I would get wrist guards for skateboarding/longboarding. They are meant for hitting pavement at high speed. They have these U-shaped plastic slide plates/impact protectors. For example "Triple 8 Wrist Savers" (not expensive) or something similar. I think a good, impact-cushioning plastic piece is the most important in a wrist guard. D3O is maybe a nice extra, but no that important. Many wrist guards are made to prevent bending the wrist and breaking it. With EUC riding, that is not a big danger. The impact softening is the important part.

If only there was a picture of a 84V Monster with the msX type board. That would clear everything up.

Ich bought mine here: https://wintersport-online-shop.de/handgelenkschuetzer-flexmeter-d3o (Switch to English on top. Shop is in the Netherlands.) Good shop, everything went quick and fine, they even wrote email to ask for hand measurements to check I ordered the right size (see size chart on Demon website). Flexmeters are hard to find in Europe. The "doc something" are the same I believe, as they are originally from France. You don't have to get the Flexmeters if they are too expensive. D3O isn't that important. Important is that hard plastic slide plate to cushion the first impact and prevent abrasion. You don't bend your wrist in a EUC accident so much, impact and abrasion are the bigger dangers. Especially impact that will transmit up to your shoulder. Longboarding protectors have that slide plate too, for example. The stronger and more feather-y it is, the better.

Both top dealers didn't say anthing definitive? Oh well, I guess a 84V 2400Wh Monster with the new msx type board would have been too good to be true Maybe the next iteration of the Monster is that and is coming soon. I just want to add for clarity (in case some people reading this got confused,) it's not the voltage that counts (84V or 100V), just the type of board and its mosfets and the surrounding electronics, mostly cable/axle thickness. Old board (ACM, ms3, 84VMonster) = bad (on hills), Tesla board (Tesla, ACM2, ms3 1900/2000W) = fine, new board (msX, MCM5, 100VMonster) = awesome.

Quoting what I posted in the video comments to a similar question: So the 100V Monster would be completely fine there. Watch @EUC GUY's infamous video what it takes to kill a wheel with this board. Pretty much any hill would be far below that. That's a bit ambiguous. What does "latest version" mean? Is the 100V the "latest version" or does he explicitly say the newly built 84V have the msX type board?