meepmeepmayer

Ehh.. you're not wrong At least a burning up motor would be something new... My dream wheel is still one where the battery is the limit and is monitored, and everything else can just take whatever it throws at it. Motor, cables, mosfets, you name it. But I guess it's not that easy, as in the end, the heat always needs to go somewhere and can accumulate in complex ways. Maybe motor + mosfets temperature sensors (and thick enough cables everywhere else) is the solution? I'd prefer such a hardware solution to any software thing that will necessarily have to be complicated (these Chinese manufacturers would implement that!) and overly conservative and can't automatically adapt to any situation. If heat is the problem, localize and monitor the heat.

@Bob Eisenman Oh wow, somehow I missed that. You always have (quite gnarly) crashes and that info gets lost a bit. Ouch. Nice range on the Monster! @RockyTop What wheel? For now, I can only remember breakages of the ACM style pedals. So the msuper X might still be safe, even if the ACM pedal breakages were a general problem (I still don't think they are, but who knows...). Do you have a photo (if there is anything to see)?

Problem is, wires have no fixed limits. It probably depends on how long some current is acting, as the heat dissipation is the problem. So do we use some "nominal" wire current number that is much lower than a what the wire can sustain for shorter times? This is all way too complicated. Thicker axle, thicker wires, no firmware changes necessary, problem solved Then you could even actually push cars til the wheel warns you due to mosfets getting too hot. [Gotway did increase their wire diameter after the old ACM/msuper motors had that problem. First there were slightly thicker cables in these motors (16AWG->14AWG) with the same axle thickness, then the thicker axle in their 2000W motor with much thicker cables.] You're absolutely right about that. But I don't think this specific stress test shows that wire melting during regular riding can happen, more like it's not going to happen if you can even push a car for minutes. But in principle, you're absolutely right. A wheel should always "work or warn". So: Other manufacturers wouldn't have that problem, and you could trust their wheels not to break then. I don't want to try because I don't trust their wheels to not break then. It's the right decision, though, it is still all super-intransparent Chinese engineering that's going on everywhere. -- But I'd definitely like to see (attempted) destructive testing of other wheel brands. Anybody with too much money around here?

Wow, what a cool idea @EUC GUY Destructive testing! Very helpful. Who pays for the damage, though... ouch, you knew this would happen. I can't bring myself to see this is a weakness or bad design by Gotway GW and others have the same (or comparable) axle and motor cable thickness. The only difference here is GW uses much stronger mosfets, so they aren't the weakest part. And since the heat sensor is at the mosfets (and how would one reliably monitor cable temperatures?)... So we can blame them for not using an even thicker axle and cables so the (monitored) mosfets would be the weakest part ... or do we blame them for simply using better mosfets than anyone else, while the rest is the same? All the other manufacturers do is monitor mosfet temperature and warn if it gets too high. As does Gotway. It just doesn't work for this situation. As far as I'm concerned, this proves the mosfets are indeed "better" than the cabling. Good to know. But I don't interpret that as a weakness, as the alternative employed by the other manufacturers is simply using weaker mosfets. Would be different if it happened on an extreme hill test. But pushing a car around just shows how overengineered the msX is. So does this video show a safety weakness or a safety plus? (I would still like to see motor cable thickness doubled just to be sure. That would be God-tier mountain riding hardware)

Eh... too crazy hot weather forever, then too cold and rainy, then ok but not much else, then I thought it was time to get a helmet before riding again with all the injury threads, then that meant I would actually have to get a helmet, then I finally got one, and another almost 2 weeks later... I had to take advantage of the last nice weather day here

In theory, the 84V should (could?) offer a little more torque. I don't think people have noticed any real differences in practice between the two options regarding torque. Not sure. I would tend towards the 84V because of the bigger battery and possibly a better price for what you get. But there's nothing wrong with the 100V variant either.

Not going to happen. Two things could cause this: The pedal bolt breaks so badly (I think it would have to be in two places) that the pedal falls off. That never, ever happened, as far as we know. The pedal itself breaks off. That happened with a bad production (presumedly) of pedals a few times (I think we had 3 known cases here) over a year ago, and was never, ever heard from again. And even if the pedal breaks, it would be not during regular riding, but when dropping on the pedals hard after jumping down a curb or so. Never heard of such a thing happening. Pedals breaking is a theoretical danger with EUCs that never happens. Just like bike pedals breaking isn't something pople consider. Forget about it. There are so many more realistic things to care about. Wear protection and drive mindfully Staying on the topic of pedals: I don't see how wear at the hinge could possibly happen. It's solid metal vs metal block (pedal and bracket), connected with a metal rod. And it's not like anything rubs against each other during riding, the pedal is just down in place. Never, ever heard of the slightest wear or change of pedal angle there.

Just so you have no misconceptions: I'm willing to bet nobody knows the msuper X's max load, not even Gotway. Because there is none. They roughly estimate what weight might not be too much, and that's what goes into some spec sheet (if an official one even exists). These Chinese manufacturers use empiric experience at best and are bullshitting the rest of the time. How would they even come up with an authoritative number for weight capacity? Actual engineering calculations? Ahahaha This isn't nearly as bad as it sounds. Much like top speed and range depend on rider weight and aren't fixed, so is the possible rider weight. It works if nothing breaks. Since the electronics are mighty fine on the new Gotways, and their axles are as good as any, there's nothing speaking against them. The same applies to the latest KingSongs (like the 18L) and the Ninebot One Z. So all of these 18 inch wheels will work for you. As will reasonably strong 16 inchers - ACM2, Tesla, V10(F), 16S. (Maybe the 16S is borderline a little too weak, as are weaker wheels). As a heavier rider: You need to be a bit more careful with strong accelerations, strong braking, etc. Just listen to the warning beeps like everyone else. They may (or may not) come a little earlier, that's it. These wheels are built well enough so you can't simply overpower them if you don't explicitly try (maybe not even then). If anything breaks for weight-related reasons, it's going to be mechanical. Pedal, axle, bent tire rim. So don't jump down huge curbs every 5 seconds and you're fine. Big batteries are your friend, because they can push out more current. This is the advantage the msX has over the 18L and Ninebot One Z. But that doesn't mean the others are weaker, probably that will never play a role. But the big battery also gives you more range, which is always nice. From a safety point of view, any 4P battery configuration (840Wh 16S, ~1000Wh wheels) is good enough. I'd say if the msX is nice and shiny and whispers sweet words in your ear, there's no wheel that can be said to be stronger (but that doesn't mean that an 18L for example is weaker, it should be just as strong). And if there's any other wheel you really like, get that.

After a nearly 7 week break from riding ( didn't realize it was that long already!) it was time again. Some pics. Just a nice late afternoon 60+km joyride. Along the river... View from some heights on the way back. Route snaking into the distance

Kann da zwar nicht hinkommen, aber schön dass du das in die Wege geleitet hast!

It appears (I DON'T KNOW FOR SURE) any wheel without a hard plastic battery housing is at risk.

A lot of information was edited in later. Now, things have cleared up

A good point! I'm wondering how this can happen on a V10(F), but all the Gotways have loosely foil-wrapped battery packs and there was never, ever a water-related problem. The battery cable on my ACM (and many of their other wheels) exits the pack on the bottom, so this way no water can flow in. And the foil isn't tight (and not sealed), so condensation and wet air aren't kept inside. Maybe the V10 battery is wrapped too tightly, so it lets no water (from condensation) out? Does the tire throw water onto dangerous spots from where it can flow into the battery pack?

Sorry. I definitely didn't mean to put blame on @Steve, and I see that my tone was cold Honestly, it was just the lack of details that irritated me. "V10 fire" in the title and a scary video and pictures but no explanation how this had happened. Guess the wheel did get wet which caused this... edit: Just realized there is a post with info just before mine. We must have posted at the same time, didn't see it before. My fault Horrific story!

Yes, of course. But I assume they will find out how this happened and fix it. Then it will be a fine wheel. Not now, of course Oh...

I'd wait til we find out what exactly causes the fires. Most likely it will be fixed. Did you give up on Gotway or the Msuper V3 after the oscillation thing? These videos are scary, though. Such a fire indoors would be disastrous. The V10(F) is too fine of a wheel to dismiss it if they can just improve on some known weak points (this, and maybe something can be done with the overheating on hills) and then it will be as good as any other wheel. -- Is it confirmed the fire(s?) are from water ingress? Or might there be another cause? I wonder how this can happen as IM designed the wheel with some waterproofing features, while a certain other manufacturer who doesn't even seem to give a **** about that has a perfect track record in wet conditions. (Un)lucky design?

Does @Bobwheel know about this?

I'd assume it's just a server issue. Solowheel as a brand is kind of dead, but the wheel and app is by Inmotion and should definitely work. Are you using a "Solowheel" app? Maybe the Inmotion app is the right one, I'm not sure, Solowheel app might be discontinued. You can try. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.inmotion.ble https://itunes.apple.com/de/app/inmotion-scv-bluetooth-version/id891233812?mt=8 @Jeffrey Scott Will has some info maybe?

Does @Jason McNeil know? He should be the first one to contact. (And apparently he delivers to Europe? Cool.) Anyways, details please, details

Yes, please. I don't want to trivialize what happened, but New account with one post (ok, that can be easily explained, you posted here to warn us). These brand batteries dont just start burning by themselves. So what exactly did go on? Where and when did you buy what wheel exactly, and how exactly did that fire happen? We don't need another Hoverboard panic, or excuses for people to smear electric ridables, so please give details.

Wo cares about trucks? The poor KingSong!

Hmmmm. Maybe I was hoping this would be true. Watertight EUCs that work underwater is something I always thought desirable (think river crossings). Well, you got me (in hindsight, apparently that isn't very hard to do). This is what I get for not making a comment regarding you and submerged vehicles!

Electric motors are amazingly strong. Every time I see these tiny diameter motor on electric skateboards that can pull a 100kg guy up a hill, it's unbelievable. If you're ever unlucky enough to short your motor wires together, it's incredible how hard the tire is to turn even with barely any power being generated from the movement. -- What do you mean by shaking? There is a rare oscillation issue with the V8 that can happen, presumedly from how the wheel deals with the not-too-strong battery. But with a V10 and the big battery, this definitely shouldn't be the case. Hoping it's not that.

Ist ein Unterschied ob es ein Thema unter vielen ist, oder quasi das einzige. Alles andere hier wird davon erdrückt. Drum schlage ich eben vor, das auszulagern. Das schadet keinem, oder?

Submerge in 10 feet of water? I wouldn't try it. For example, what about the motor axle? But good to know this updated version of the V10(F) should now be rain- and weatherproof beyond all doubt.