IPS Malta

Maybe I can shed some light on battery problems. I recently went to run some IPS Zero I had long stored and not used and discovered some interesting new facts for me that might help you solve the problem. The battery cells in the IPS are all connected to a control circuit. Formerly I thought it was because of balancing but actually that those are to read the individual cell voltage and not balancing. If I figured this right, the pack cells are charged in series and stops when the first cell hits the highest safe voltage. If the cells are not well balanced then the wheel will die quicker or not fully charge. Solution: once in a while go through fully charging the cells individually with an RC charger. This solved a range issue on one and another wheel going on low voltage warnings even after charging. With aged batteries maybe this has to be done more frequently though esp on aging batteries. What I understood is that charging stops when the first cell hits the max voltage and low battery warning kicks in when one cell hits the lowest voltage. If you have one cell with high voltage and one with very low voltage, it will neither allow you to fully charge all the cells nor give you the optimal range on that battery pack. Hope this helps and solves any related problems.

Oh I thought something got sorted out there. I ride mine in SZ when I am there. Yes totally agree, the S5 is nice to have for its better specs but the everyday commuting, the i5 is excellent

Is that the original charger? I think mine is smaller (i remember it smaller than my laptop brick). I'll try to get my wife sending me a picture of it later. If different we can also compare the brick's specification

I can say the same, I'm just missing my S5 in my collection since the LHOTZ. Where do you ride in HK?

The voltage reading as suggested @Slaughthammer works only with the IPS LHOTZ as far as what I tested. Forgot if it worked with the i5 As I have that wheel on the other side of the world but the i3(ZERO) shows them all 0 and it doesn't give you much information unfortunately

Anyone up to meet in Malta? We can organize a meeting for anyone who's on the island

@steve454 Yes, babies eat their parent's time (Esp when you're 24/7 with) so I'm not being here often and unfortunately rarely riding. Anyone needs the app though can send me a private message. @Randalab I'm sorry to read about your happenings. In my line of work I reach many disappointed customers on purchasing from abroad because most expect the same after sale as buying from a shop and forget the distance in between (its not easy to return a defective high valued product in China for several understandable reasons and you need to keep this in mind if you purchase a single product directly). Now in your case I think you have to take it against who you purchased it from (Quoting you po*******co). Ms. Yue from IPS in my opinion went out of her way to help you out and you still blame them. If you bought it directly from IPS she should have all the obligation to assist you, but since you bought it from another source you should talk to your supplier and if they think they should reach to IPS, your supplier should reach to IPS factory. If the large dealers are not working with IPS I doubt it is for quality but more for unreachable negotiation, unplanned future issues or irresponsible wrong information leaks and by quality I am not saying they have an always 100% good product out of the factory, but when they don't they do sort it out (which I call quality as trust me all factories have a defect by at least a minor one but not all admit and resolve them). Back to your case, trashing the image of a company you purchased for is making yourself loose the value of your purchased product when your issues get solved. If they don't respond timely does not mean they disappeared, again don't forget your distance and again it's not IPS's obligation to respond to you even though they know about some issues, their obligation is to send the resolutions to their direct buyers (dealers and single purchases directly from IPS). As for the shell, I didn't see the S5 but my last trades where on the I5 and I can understand why they don't sell shells separately. The ideal mounting of the shells need specific tools in my opinion. I hope you get your issues resolved though.

Hi @realbizkit and @littlelio. Sorry for the late reply. Yes we do rent EUCs. I am sending you a private message for more details.

@Rol did you manage to get some investigation done on your problem?

@Rol I reached IPS and the person assisting us just came back to the office. you can test both the motor and the board to find out where the problem is. The fuse you know how to check and you know it is getting broken. For the sake of others, I will write it anyway. Fuse test: Disconnect all the board wires completely from LED lights, motor and battery, open the control board box and locate the fuse. The fuse resistance should be less than 1Ω MosFET Test: You will need to test 12 Mosfets as follows (At this point the document they sent to me is a bit misleading so I am quoting as they say in their document with my suggestions in brackets) common or ground (-ve black probe) on the middle leg and +ve (red) on the left and right leg. record each resistance for the 12 fets i.e. 24 tests (due to polarity they request I think you need to find the voltage drop of each using the diode setup) Connect the +ve (red) to the left leg and -ve (black) to the right leg and record the last 12 resistances (again due to polarity they request I think you need to find the voltage drop of each using the diode setup) All recorded resistances should be similar and all high values of several Ohms (or I believe you should find no shorts) MosFET Diagram with PCB Behind FET for spoon feeding orientation |----------|------ Right | FET |------ Middle |______|------ Left Motor Test: With the motor disconnected, set the multimeter to Diode mode (this is a bit misleading for several reasons here too so will take it the same as the above) connect the +ve (Red) probe to the black wire and connect the -ve (black) probe to the green yellow and blue lines (do them for the 6/7 as I am not sure it's the Haltzer sensors wires or motor cables and about that red cable in pictures). You should read a voltage drop of around 0.7v their picture shows 0.602 on the hall sensor connection only not power cables Connect the -ve (Black) probe to the same black wire and connect the +ve (red) probe to the red green blue lines (again I don't know if its the power or hall lines, if the above is hall sensors then this might be the power lines but that's my assumption on the power lines not being tested) You should get a 0 of no resistance on the multimeter at this point. this is my point. While at it check to have same resistance on yellow-green, green-blue, blue to yellow I presume it should be. Once you do all the tests above kindly report the findings and results here before any conclusions as I have some assumptions and I don't have a Zero to check on ATM. Start off with the motor test... that's the easiest with no need to opening the control board

Hi guys, I just returned to China from some long busy travelling. I will get in touch with IPS to have more knowledge on the error code while also reading deeper in the thread as I just skimmed through. Will get back to you shortly.

@9botter not much... 4 maybe. But now I'm staying in heaven.... China now I will be in Malta around end of May for a month so maybe we can meet and go around (hoping my wheels are still in good shape back there)

the pressure of 35psi is very normal on a 2.5". you should adjust the pressure to the weight (which is why you have a range) in most cases our weight is more than what could be ridden on the tires so most of the time we need to aim to higher pressures mentioned. p=F/A ... A is increased so p needs to be less. the IPS wheels (LHOTZ to Zero) I remeber they had a huge difference and I was kind of afraid reaching high pressure on the Zero thinking it might blow up which it never did and I think I was on 45+ psi. As being tubeless the walls are more rigid so the tube needs less pressure as it only needs to oppose the force down while a tube one will need more pressure to sustain the walls too (I might be wrong on the last as I am no expert but learning on tire technology). As for the tire and wobble, I can understand that a more round surface might give you a feeling of a narrow wheel to which you need to adopt a bit (you're more like traveling on a rope now). There is also a factor of wearing the tire a bit (I was always suggested not to stress new tires for the first few hundreds of km (probably less on an EUC) on a car until they do their run-in period and get to their optimal state). Also is the rotation of the tire right? Did you see improvement in turning at higher speeds and wider turns as you have to lean sideways a bit on those? I think there it performs better with more road hold and less risky to skids on turns from what I can think about. I was also thinking that maybe the board didn't balance on closing it back. Did you try to hold it steady on flat and see if the wheel pushes more/less forward/ backwards when not loaded? If so maybe a calibration might help. Well done for the job, that new tire really looks nice and even the wheel have a new look now... you're making me want to experiment on my i5 here but that doesn't have the room for changes as you have on your KS. I need to dig deeper for a perfect different road type tire while trying to achieve something new, but will definitely have to wait for now (maybe mid 2018)

well, I am not going to comment on Safest ( I only rode IPS with no failures [just few bugs about LED lights that they updated and one power-up thing that I didn't even bother to report], but I know maybe I ride too gently compared to you) but @johrhoj, a crushed wire is more of a QC thing and probably you fall in that 2 % of the statistics. Never the less, yes there might be issues with Kingsong design/QC or better stuff in a Gotway, but you can admit that you can juice more power from a Gotway to a Kingsong. That being said do the better cabling and design reflect that on the same ratio? (the last statement is based on what I read, I never saw any of them open except some random pictures so I am the least who can judge, while both seem promising wheels for performance in their own way) @Marty Backe said it perfectly once somewhere here."he wish Gotway has from Kingsong and Kingsong has from Gotway". As safest wheel, it will always boil down to the individual then how to use them, where, for what and what you expect from them. For me, I find IPS safe for their objectives (and you have all the right to disagree). They know their hardware is capable of 100% and they know they are less likely to fail at 70% so by 50% you're getting warnings while 70% they make it hard to go beyond. The others definitely give you 90/100% of their capability but also expect you to assess your own behaviour more. Of course, if you ride any performance wheel at the same limits of the IPS probably you are getting same or even better safety, but in the end, you still can overcome that (even unknowingly) and start loosing on your safety margin. Edit: In the end, I commented anyway (couldn't resist apparently)

safety is being improved all the time in these devices while meeting new performance records. All vehicles have had death or injuries. Name me one that didn't? maybe a rowing boat though I suspect one could have drowned after going far out in the sea and caught some serious currents If you put a motor to a rowing boat, then you have more ability to fight currents but lets face it... if you put a motor you're more likely to go far out in the sea and challange the currents.. which in return it will increase the possiblity of being lost in the sea. Even if you take subway or airplanes who continuously check for fit to travel systems have failures that caused injuries or death (and the worst part is that the majority of the persons on board have not make any decision to cause such failure and where there unluckily). The ones who get injured are mostly the ones who look for reaching the device's limits (which happens to all forms of vehicles) I keep on stressing as I did on my long posts in the last 2 days, If we use it sensibly and reasonably they are far more safe than most means of transport that expose you to the environment. The reason is that we know the risks and what can go wrong with minimal feel of false safety. The worst part of it that it is a technology that has been introduced in mid our lives (and we already grasped a lot of its physics that needs to be known to the rider). A bicycle was there since we where born (and probably a motor bike also to all of us. I don't know if there is anyone old enough who don't recall a motorbike when he was young) which in return we accept such technology as safe as it was there with no question for understanding ever since, never the less if you're at a curve and your front wheel slips you're most likely going to crash with no recovery that you could think of (at least with an EUC you're standing and you are more likely to step off and recover).