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Keith

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Keith last won the day on September 8 2016

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About Keith

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    Veteran Member
  • Birthday 07/04/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • Interests
    Radio Control aircraft, photography, Malta.

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  1. Keith

    ACCIDENTs, CRASHs, Cutouts and Overleans.

    Spot on - Not sure it is actually him but it is certainly a close cousin. (IMHO) Long verbose posts that are going nowhere. A “brilliant designer and visionary thinker” who doesn’t know how to post a picture on the internet or video on YouTube. making a “Huge contribution to safety” with this thread:
  2. Keith

    EUC Netherlands, Dutch

    Alain, Did you not see the post immediately above yours from @Rudy Sijnke telling you he has sent you a private message (P.M.) In fact, whilst the Moderators cannot read P.M.’s I can see that you have been sent two.
  3. Keith

    IPS Zero: 30A Fuse blows

    I said to check across the THICK wires not thin. The thin wires go to transistors you aren’t likely to see much there. Was that just a typing error? whilst the article suggests the fuse will blow only on a board fault, I am not absolutely certain this is correct? A disconnect in just one of the three power wires will also cause over current - I’ve seen this a number of times in model aircraft BLDC motors which are much the same technology. It is possible the IPS might have a safe overcurrent shut down algorithm so would only blow the fuse on a board fault, but on an older wheel like this it seems unlikely they would have protected against a fault that shouldn’t happen. You seem to be sure you have proved you have a board fault, if so you have already said you can do nothing about it if you cannot obtain a spare - unless of course you feel you can diagnose back to a possibly faulty FET or two and replace them yourself - not the easiest thing to do and not something we will be able to help with much unless you can physically see burnt transistors. Even then it could have cascade failed other components on the board as well. I still think it would be very odd that the electrics should fail at the same time as just changing a tyre, unless, of course you did actually power it up with one power wire disconnected which may well have blown one of more FET’s at the same time as the fuse. You would have to actually spin the wheel at an even speed to measure the output across the power wires, the board would have to be seeing the wheel passing through every set of magnets (assuming sensors worked properly) to evenly send signal down all three coils (one after the other) if the wheel is stationary it will be driving only one or two coils
  4. It is astonishing how simple an apparently hard to grasp problem can be made when it is as well and briefly explained as this 😜. Great explanation @RockyTop. It is also amusing having just come from the pages of waffle that instinctively tell you a concept is just wrong in this thread 😜:
  5. Keith

    ACCIDENTs, CRASHs, Cutouts and Overleans.

    This topic has been done to death in the past and I’m surprised anyone is bothering to answer and rehash this all again! If you have proved this works then surely you can video yourself actually demonstrating it, otherwise this thread is just going to go round and round the same pointless loop. Perhaps you would also care to demonstrate how having a pair of prongs sticking out of the front doesn’t impede jumping up kerbs, uneven ground, etc as well? Beyond that, you are not allowing for the way riders will react in a failure situation, I.e. it isn’t the failure they react to as they haven’t trained there unconscious reactions for that so that extra millisecond or two your device gives them won’t (IMHO) help at all - I covered this here: The key point here is that if you DELIBERATELY fail the wheel you will fall safely with or without your “clever” idea. In a real failure you will try to correct for the tilt forward and will faceplant before you have time to think about rolling off, @The Fat Unicyclist Has got it right, if you want to prevent a faceplant you need to stick a big wheel in front and invent the bicycle, nothing smaller is going to make a bit of difference. Finally, You can see how well received the below guy was when he continually pushed his same “brilliant” ideas ad nausium - bear in mind that his worst descents into abuse in this, and several other threads, were deleted by the Moderators. It is time to stop this or demonstrate proof!
  6. Now to answer the question. To be honest, it is your above statement that showed a lack of understanding of EUC’s plus expecting the supplier to supply the BMS. It is absolutely vital that BMS on EUC’s DO NOT HAVE OUTPUT PROTECTION, cheap wheels that have used eBike BMS have been death traps and there is a long thread on disabling output protection on them. Any and all output protection on EUC’s has to come from the main control board just as a warning to the rider to take action. Under no circumstances, even if the battery is on fire, is it acceptable to just cut power. As @Marty Backe explained, the wheel is absolutely not sold without batteries for DIY enthusiasts so no BMS is supplied, nor directly available. You are quite correct that there is nothing stopping you, or anyone else building a pack. Gotway are really good at cramming the batteries in though so you might find that a self build results in lower, not necessarily higher, capacity. What, I cannot tell you, but hopefully someone with that wheel can, is whether the BMS has any additional signalling wires to the main control board to alert on individual cell failures? Some EUC’s such as the IPS brand have a wire from each series cell so that it can manage even a single cell (or cell group) fault. Some others have a BMS alert signal wire, However many do not and only total voltage of the pack can be monitored. This means it is also pretty vital that a matched, single batch set of cells are used in the build as poor cells will not be controlled by the BMS other than by balance charging.
  7. Keith

    Celebration Advice

    I think in most cases the proper outcome would be the award of a suitable medal. Heroic pilots of the First World War would earn the Blue Max so perhaps the Blue Marty would be appropriate? Or, if those daring men on one wheel could be seen as modern day Knights then something along the lines of “The Order of St John” could only possibly be “The Order of St Jason” in honour of our most active and supportive vendor @Jason McNeil. Or, come to think of it, perhaps simply “The Order of St @John Eucist! However this could only ever be awarded once as it is well known that: Once a King - always a King... but once a knight is enough! of course we would have to make a special case for @Hunka Hunka Burning Love, as he wouldn’t so much want just a medal but also a chest to pin it on 😜.
  8. Keith

    IPS Zero: 30A Fuse blows

    The wheel does turn completely freely when powered down and with the motor cables plugged in doesn’t it? If it is very stiff it would indicate a failed transistor on the main board, which I stilll think unlikely. I still feel that this looks like a disconnected power wire, I would agree that your above post does seem to exclude the sensor wires being faulty. If you put a multimeter on ohms across every combination of the three motor wires (the three thick wires disconnected from the main board) you should read pretty much the same resistance across all combinations. It will be wired something like the below picture with the blue yellow and green wires being points 1,2 and 3 below and the resistance should be very low. Don’t worry about the star or delta bit, I don’t know which yours is wired (probably star as torque is higher) but, as you can see the resistance should be the same across every combination regardless. unfortunately, none of us know, and I certainly cannot find on the internet anywhere, the IPS error codes. As @Chriullhas said @IPS Malta has a lot of expertise, he is a really nice guy, and may even be in China at the moment so if he sees this post he may well be able to identify the error code?
  9. Keith

    So I live at the top of a steep hill...

    Welcome to the forum. I have to second @Marty Backe‘s comment that this is the best analysis of what wheel to buy I have ever seen as well. Do have a watch of Marty’s hill climb videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQeDQAr2JgTSSujXThdlWxg As actually seeing them in action might help you to decide. Finally, whilst you are still using your current wheel, why not charge it at work to 100%. A 340Wh wheel ought to easily make a 6.8 mike round trip OK if the hill is around the 3 mile mark and it will be low enough on the return leg to work to not over charge going down. You won’t need to worry about charging to less than 100% if you start drawing power within a few hours of charging it - especially if you are going to be replacing it soon anyway.
  10. Keith

    IPS Zero: 30A Fuse blows

    There is a very big bit of what you did missing between these two lines surely? You are saying you opened it up and now it does not work. Is that all you did? You did not disconnect a single wire? What it sounds like you have done is either plugged in the sensor wires (the thin wires going to the motor) in the wrong order or the main wires. By the look of it, that may not be possible on this wheel as the thin wires are on a (polarised?) plug and main power wires colour coded (but are you certain it was blue to blue, yellow to yellow etc it does not always follow!) If this is not the case then I think it is possible a wire may have broken when it was disturbed (or it might just be that plug not making proper contact?) it could be any one of those thin or thick motor wires being disconnected or swapped could, I think, cause those symptoms. Basically I am making the above assumptions, Firstly on the basis that the odds that an electrical component should pick just when you were working on it to die are VERY small (unless you handled the main board and did static electricity damage - unlikely?) Secondly, The thin wires go to magnetic sensors (hall-effect transistors) which detect the position of the magnets in the wheel in order to decide which coils of the motor to energise, the control board pumps current down one set of coils (two of the three thick motor wires) until the sensors detect the movement and switch to the next set of coils (a different pair of the three thick wires) and so on. If one of those thin wires were broken the motor would start to move and never see the movement so it would keep increasing power to the first coils. If the main wires got swapped it would try to run backwards and the sensors would get very confused, if one thick wire was broken the wheel cannot turn so it can over current the other two coils trying to get it to turn.
  11. Keith

    Ninebot S2 thinks it’s S1

    I do not know the Ninebot wheels at all so someone else may know of a known issue with them? However, everything you are saying fits one of your batteries being faulty. In the typical oriental way of calling a spade “a steel, manually activated, earth relocating instrument” the message is saying: “One of the cells in battery 2 has a very low voltage compared to the others.” If it is in warrantee, I would discuss it with the supplier. if it isn’t in warrantee, opening it up and physically checking the voltage of the packs will help diagnose what is wrong. If it is a firmware issue, which seems unlikely, disconnecting the batteries completely may reset it. If it is that one pack is going faulty or it’s BMS (Battery Management System) is faulty or has a broken connection to a cell I am not aware of any way to reset a BMS. Assuming the S2 has at least 2 physical packs, You may, at least temporarily, be able ride with just the good pack, albeit with a lot less range? If you do open it up to measure voltages, please do not lose sight of the massive, arc welder level, current these batteries can deliver. Make absolutely sure you do not accidentally short circuit anything by (say) you touching a multimeter probe across two contacts.
  12. That’s great @John Eucist, let’s see how it goes 😀 mind you, I read the above at first as non-self-balancing-pervs. I thought you had built a section especially for @Hunka Hunka Burning Love. 🤣😂😜
  13. Q: What side of the road do they drive on in Florida. A: The side that is in the shade 😜
  14. Keith

    V5F DOA - Possibly Battery?

    From what you have described already, particularly the fact it was DOA, Regardless of any level of support from Inmotion I think you should be looking to return it to the supplier at their expense. I don’t know American consumer law of course but I would be surprised if their attitude would not be that your first point of redress is with your supplier. As @WARPed1701D has said, in the USA Solowheel and Inmotion have a joint venture and all their V5 wheels are branded as Solowheel Glide. It may not necessarily be old stock, but if it isn’t it has to be a ‘grey’ import, probably direct from China. I would think that would also make Solowheel/Inmotion USA support open to question. For example I do know that in the U.K. Nikon U.K. will not touch a “grey import” Nikon camera. What I would also, personally, find of concern is that I could find no address or even phone number on Freemotion’s website, which doesn’t hold well for the level of service you may get from them. They also have a specific clause against “modified” wheels which I would read as making it unsafe for you to consider opening it up to check if something simple like a lead coming unplugged in transit had occurred.
  15. Keith

    THE VIDEO THREAD!

    Great video. Funny how the riding improved with each stop for a beer 😜
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