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Keith

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Keith last won the day on September 8 2016

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About Keith

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    Veteran Member
  • Birthday 07/04/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Surrey, UK
  • Interests
    Radio Control aircraft, photography, Malta.

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  1. I just had to contribute to this. Recently my niece got married, the groom’s family own a Manor House that is older than the USA and with its own church ( see below - the Manor House is on the right). See also https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teffont_Evias . I’m sure @Hunka Hunka Burning Love Will quickly spot, under “Notable People” that there used to be the kind of parties he is always hoping to get invited to 😜! As you can probably imagine this was quite a wedding with quite a big guest list. As a result the car was parked quite a long way away. During the reception I needed to fetch something from the car. Well the KingSong was in the trunk, it was a long walk back and I was in a hurry - there was, clearly, (I mean obvious to anyone surely?) only one thing to do 😀. They say a picture is worth a thousand words - well - How much my wife agreed with my decision is, I think quite clear:
  2. Keith

    Searching Inmotion V5F+ 480Wh

    I’m afraid your statements and assumptions are completely wrong. The V5F+ was a special version built at the request of Jason McNeil for ewheels https://www.ewheels.com/product/inmotion-v5f/ and exclusively sold by him, the V5F has the same physical size battery with lower capacity and specification cells and was what was sold elsewhere. When Solowheel came to a commercial tie in with Inmotion they gained exclusive rights to the Inmotion range, Inmotion no longer directly supplied eWheels and the V5F+ died as a result. Inmotion V5 and V8 wheels were then sold, in the US as Solowheel Glide 2 and 3 and the spec is lower than the V5F+. You cannot buy it new anywhere.
  3. Proof of what exactly? What are the two pictures you have shown without explanation? We know that some batteries are mislabelled already, are you saying one is a new battery and the other is refurbished or what? More to the point EXACTLY what problem is this personally causing you? You weigh 200lb’s and it won’t work or what exactly?
  4. @Charlie our apologies we had problems with spammers registering then sending private messages to random members all over the forum so we had to restrict new members. @Edddeus will need to P.M. you and perhaps pass on an email address or phone number you can contact him on.
  5. That is pointlessly emotive statement and has nothing to do with whether or not the machine has been refurbished - unless, of course you can prove that refurbished 9bot minis are having lower spec batteries fitted - if so then please give us that proof. That there is a discrepancy between the published weight limit on the battery and the machine does not, IMHO make it a “Bait and Switch”, more likely a change of opinion by the manufacturer about the performance of the machine. The usable weight limit is discussed in detail below. I’ve deleted the other post where you simply repeat this statement as, to leave it in place, would make you appear to be having an “axe to grind” instead of perhaps having a real point to make?
  6. This is an electric unicycle forum so it does not necessarily run to any expertise on motors generally. I’ve moved your question to off topic. As it happens I know of these motors having used them some years ago in model planes. The motor you are quoting is a simple brushed 550 mabuchi ‘can’ motor and its specification absolutely does not say it supports 2 options for power. It has no switching or multiple connections it simply says it can be used between 12V 5 Amps and 36V 3 Amps. There is nothing within the motor that will limit current - you would have to ensure that you did not exceed the rated current yourself. It will cut faster at 36V as it will spin three times as fast - so your first issue is whether it will spin too fast for your cutter with the possibility of it shattering and causing injury. Current, and therefore torque will increase the more you load the cutter and reduce its RPM. Torque is proportional to current so, if on 12V you really can go as high as 5 Amps* you will get more torque than at 36V 3 Amps - but remember YOU control current, run it at 36V and load it until the RPM drops right down without limiting current you will get a lot of torque just before it starts smoking! * Those figures are pretty high for a very simple cheap motor, even within spec it will overheat without some additional cooling if run for more than a minute or so. For anyone else wondering what this is - you can find it here:https://m.banggood.com/DC-12-36V-Lathe-Press-555-Motor-With-Miniature-Hand-Drill-Chuck-and-Mounting-Bracket-p-1144675.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc_elc&utm_content=gary&utm_campaign=ds-cpa-ds-usb&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6dyZ_ruW2wIVQp3VCh2bKwUYEAAYASAAEgK-kPD_BwE
  7. Keith

    KS16 wont turn on

    It takes a short circuit across the motor coils to cause that stiffness when turning so potentially it could be coil damage but at least 9 times out of 10 it is the MOSFET’s as they have a tendency to fail short circuit. So much for the fuse protecting the board - and I see this is the second time you have had this failure on your KS-16! As @Hunka Hunka Burning Love Said above disconnecting the motor wires from the board will prove if the short is in the motor or board. As to getting a replacement board in the U.K. Project 42 stock (and I believe repair) KingSong https://proj42.co.uk/contacts note there is a “this site might not be safe” warning at the above URL, This seems to be purely due to them using https and the site certificate expiring yesterday, if you aren’t comfortable using it perhaps try a P.M to @vladmarks who is with Project 42 (and who hopefully will see this and get his company ‘s certificate sorted out?) Speedyfeet https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/ also now seems to be stocking KingSong.
  8. Keith

    Buying First EUC - Just need some advice

    Welcome to the forum. To be honest, given just the two options you quote above it is a no brainier. A new Airwheel X3 is around $399 and, at least according to the below post, a replacement Airwheel battery is around $320. Whilst you might shop around and get a cheaper one That still, in my book, makes an X3 with a duff battery worth $80 at the very most! Perhaps others in the forum might make better suggestions and don’t forget to also take a look at our private sales.
  9. Keith

    New Rider, New King Song!!

    @mfvtgtgs, welcome to the forum, and great write up. Just one thing I would pick up on. Virtually everyone considers learner mode to be unpleasantly soft, even complete beginners, you might want to try the medium mode (I think it is “cycling”) before you get much further. See the 4th paragraph in the below posts for example: Shins hurting is a pretty common problem when you start off (for me as well!) I have never been totally sure whether it is the shins hardening up or the riders learning not to frantically grip the wheel between their legs - you really only need to stand on the peddles not grip the wheel tight. However, whichever reason it is you should find the problem goes after a week or two.
  10. Keith

    Battery Specs on Tesla, & Mten3

    20 cells, max 4.2V would be exactly 84 volts - not 84.7. That is only useful as a charging max voltage and is fairly meaningless from a power point of view where the average discharge voltage is what is usually stated 3.6V/cell or 3.7V/cell (if the manufacturer likes to exaggerate a bit) so 72V or 74V. So your research so far hasn’t been too successful 😜 The Tesla comes in both 850 and 1020 Wh and either pack has the same amount of cells, just with different capacities (~2900 mAh vs. 3500 mAh) so that will be a 20S4P configuration. I don’t know what cells it uses (possibly LG MJ1 in the 1020Wh battery ?) but typically max discharge is 10A for both sizes so peak discharge will be 40 Amps at 72V. (Some 18650 cells can discharge higher) Tesla has a 1900W motor so continuous current will be set by that = 26 Amps. Running at that power, assuming nothing overheated, you would get only about 30 minutes out of the larger battery so in reality it is more likely to be somewhat less than 14 Amps.
  11. Right up to the point where the airline tells them to naff off due to its batteries. @kour, are you sure that wasn’t posted on April 1st.?
  12. Ip54 is pretty much no protection at all, just “not much dust will get in and you can splash water on it OK.” To be honest, unless you have a very good reason to take the motor apart (I.e. the bearings are clearly failing) the best advice I can give is leave it alone. I doubt you can grease the bearings, it isn’t a 1950’s car so they should be sealed for life, but the biggest problem you may have is clearance between the stator and rotor will be very small and there is likely to be sufficient play in those bolts around the circumference of the, I suppose you could call it a shell or hub cap (the black bit with “Ninebot one” written on it), coupled with VERY powerful magnets that you may have some real difficulty reassembling it with out rubbing. If you do take it apart I would recommend only removing the shell on one side at a time so there is a chance the other side will preserve the clearance. You might find the bolts are locktited in (they certainly should be when you refit them) so you might find you need to heat the bolts to get them out (soldering iron down the Hex socket works well). You should find that the bearings are in the shells.
  13. Keith

    New Inmotion V10 (V8 Fast)

    Just brings a whole new meaning to: “Doing a data dump”.
  14. Keith

    Inmotion V10F Brand New UNOPENED BOX

    Which beautifully demonstrates just how stupid you are being! Nobody will bother to discuss (say) the Glide series with you as they are only available in the US and few people know what is available in Japan so will ignore you. (As indeed will I from now on!)
  15. Keith

    Charging Strategy - Levels and Frequency

    Just to add to @US69‘s spot on answer. Charge floor is ambiguous to put it mildly. A manufacturer will take a decision on what they consider is a safe minimum voltage for the battery to reach under load. A Lithium Ion battery off load is pretty much flat at around 3.3V, so in theory 3.3V is 0% (not zero volts as you might think) but at high load, internal cell resistance could take that as low as 2.5V. The more cells you have in parallel, the lower the internal resistance and the lower the current flow the less the voltage drops. Either way the alarm or tiltback voltage would need to be higher in these cases. Add to the mix that you probably have 40 cells comprising 20 series cells in 2 parallel, then individual cells may be lower than others so a “Fudge” factor for that is also needed. In practice many wheels, I do not know if this includes the Solowheel, see 3.4 or 3.5v per cell as the alarm point, under load that could easily be 40% unusable capacity anyway. So adding an additional 40% to that would be pretty pointless. You can see by the above that talking in terms of low end percentage is not really helpful. If someone says that the batteries should not be discharged below (say) 3.6V per cell off load, then that is a value that has a clear meaning, 40% really does not unless it is set against some baseline first.
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