Marty Backe Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 36 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Is $1/ hour a fair wage? My wife would kill this underpaid absent minded professor if she knew about my ACM. Somehow the GW gods have kept her at bay so far!! Interestingly before my wife had surgery this past Monday she told me she would like to learn to ride an EUC! Awesome! If I do get caught with the ACM I can just say I'm building it for her! If it's good enough a Chinese worker... Hey, that's great news that you may have a new riding partner. Of course you'll want her to be riding an ultra safe wheel, so your ACM efforts are really going to payoff as you see her riding it around town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Split: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Making progress! I pulled the new (5) hall sensor and the (3) 14 awg motor wires through the axle shaft with ease. What a difference removing all of the burrs inside the axle made! Not a scrape or cut to any of the wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 Motor wires are tucked in and shrink wrapped nice and neat. I epoxied in the new hall sensors. Once dry I will attach the 9 wires and reassembled covers and bearings to the hub. Interesting find on my part. I knew the ACM's 3 motor wires that originally came from the motor and spliced together with crimped connectors were 16 AWG. What I didn't realize is that the wires coming out of the PCB are 14AWG. ( you can see the comparison in photo 2). At least I will not have drill out the holes on the PCB to accept the new wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Progress! It's starting to come together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 On 4/15/2017 at 4:57 PM, meepmeepmayer said: Progress! It's starting to come together Sorry for the late reply! Yes it is but progress is much slower than I would like. Finding the time has become a real issue due to all of the spring yard work, repairing an old jeep transmission, painting, repairing broken sprinkler lines and a honey do list that is never ending. I need to start getting into work earlier before seeing patients and get this wrapped up. And now after seeing @Scully's beautiful orange and green wheels I am thinking of painting the ACM as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 Well not so good news. Before epoxying in the new hall sensors I examined the small sensor openings and the surrounding coil wires as they are in direct proximity. Sure enough I cut two of the copper windings as I was either prying out the old sensors or cleaning out the old epoxy. I could not tell this was an issue until today as I examined the area closely using a magnifying glass. I suppose the 2 copper wires could be repaired but being a strong believer in fate I contacted Ian and he is getting me a price for a new motor. Although disappointed I just tell myself that this not some incurable disease. Just a little ripple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 4 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Well not so good news. Before epoxying in the new hall sensors I examined the small sensor openings and the surrounding coil wires as they are in direct proximity. Sure enough I cut two of the copper windings as I was either prying out the old sensors or cleaning out the old epoxy. I could not tell this was an issue until today as I examined the area closely using a magnifying glass. I suppose the 2 copper wires could be repaired but being a strong believer in fate I contacted Ian and he is getting me a price for a new motor. Although disappointed I just tell myself that this not some incurable disease. Just a little ripple. picture please. scraping the varnish should not be an issue. I have seen people re-wind the stators but I do not know how difficult it would be to just re-wind the damaged coil. it is defenitely repairable but you have to whatch some videos. I saw some of these ladies winding stators for e-byke motors by hand and not even looking down. It looked simple but I am sure it requires practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 27 minutes ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said: picture please. scraping the varnish should not be an issue. I have seen people re-wind the stators but I do not know how difficult it would be to just re-wind the damaged coil. it is defenitely repairable but you have to whatch some videos. I saw some of these ladies winding stators for e-byke motors by hand and not even looking down. It looked simple but I am sure it requires practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 Darn I hope I didn't jinx you. Is it just those two ends that are severed? Can you tell where they were seated originally? It should be possible to remove the laquer and do a solder repair and subsequent epoxy protective coating I'm guessing. I haven't Googled too much about electric motor repair, but are those two supposed to go to the other side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 Ugh? Can't you just reconnect those two wires? They aren't isolated, just part of the copper mass, right? So even if disconnected, the motor should still work? And connecting them, even with some duct tape, should be enough? All the work on motor cable replacement for nothing? Or are you just scared/getting fed up and want a motor someone else finished? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said: Hand wired motors? That reminds me of a video where they were making cigarettes by hand, very fast but not as fast as a machine. The cigarettes were made in some other country, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 That copper wiring is usually wrapped pretty tightly around the stator teeth so there shouldn't be any loose wires like that. With a break in the wiring, it effectively cuts the circuit to the stator stack so the motor will not work properly. I'm thinking with some careful examination first, one might be able to scrape off the lacquer insulation coating, place maybe some aluminum foil underneath, and solder the wires back together. A small piece of copper for a bridge could be used if needed to solder on to help span any gaps. Sliding some teflon tape under the wire and then applying non-conductive epoxy or other (RED GLYPTOL) insulating laquer could then be done and allowed to dry making sure the underside is coated. The aluminum and teflon could then be removed. Or so I theorize in my mind that it could be done that way... You might want to Google some electric motor repair threads for more info. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?240993-(Re)winding-and-building-motors-tips-tricks-checks-tests If you have an old electric motor or some of the copper windings, I would practice first on a piece which you cut in two to see how it is to join the ends back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 Man what an unpleasant end of a day. Mom was just yelling at the Dad over their child! I need a drink! 2 hours ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said: picture please. scraping the varnish should not be an issue. I have seen people re-wind the stators but I do not know how difficult it would be to just re-wind the damaged coil. it is defenitely repairable but you have to whatch some videos. I saw some of these ladies winding stators for e-byke motors by hand and not even looking down. It looked simple but I am sure it requires practice. Those ladies hands are so trained from years of winding stators! I know a lot of ladies that don't look down performing......... 1 hour ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Darn I hope I didn't jinx you. Is it just those two ends that are severed? Can you tell where they were seated originally? It should be possible to remove the laquer and do a solder repair and subsequent epoxy protective coating I'm guessing. I haven't Googled too much about electric motor repair, but are those two supposed to go to the other side? The first words that came out of my mouth were: "That fu...in Hunka!" Removing the lacquer is easy but locating the 4th wire that broke is not. It is hidden in the mass. I may be able to fish around on the opposite side of the stator. This stinks! 1 hour ago, meepmeepmayer said: Ugh? Can't you just reconnect those two wires? They aren't isolated, just part of the copper mass, right? So even if disconnected, the motor should still work? And connecting them, even with some duct tape, should be enough? All the work on motor cable replacement for nothing? Or are you just scared/getting fed up and want a motor someone else finished? I presented that question today to a guy that repairs electric motors. If the copper windings to any of the coils become compromised the processor will not receive the proper electrical signals (or something like that). He will take a look at it and if he cannot perform the repair he know a specialty shop that can. The issue is the cost! If I can pick up a new motor for $200 it might be worth it. If I received a new motor I would still add the new larger cables. That would be easy now. Scared....maybe a tinsey bit....OF MY WIFE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 13 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: The first words that came out of my mouth were: "That fu...in Hunka!" Removing the lacquer is easy but locating the 4th wire that broke is not. It is hidden in the mass. I may be able to fish around on the opposite side of the stator. This stinks! I did pray for you, Rehab, lord knows I did! No wonder why my ears were burning... I wonder if you can carefully fish that other wire out and see where the break is. Maybe soldering a copper bridge in to "reposition" the wire break where you want it to be might be something to try if it's inaccessible like in between the stator teeth. I think the idea behind the thin lacquer insulation is to try to maximize electrical field conductivity so it's best to use bare copper and insulated it after soldering with that Red Glyptol or clear epoxy resin. Apparently any clear or amber type of epoxy (eg. Gorilla Epoxy) should work according to that thread. Copper should be easy to flux and solder to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 1 hour ago, meepmeepmayer said: Ugh? Can't you just reconnect those two wires? They aren't isolated, just part of the copper mass, right? So even if disconnected, the motor should still work? And connecting them, even with some duct tape, should be enough? All the work on motor cable replacement for nothing? Or are you just scared/getting fed up and want a motor someone else finished? No no! Crazy @meepmeepmayer lol. Lol. It lok like the winding for the statues is like 10 conductors in parallel and wound a bunch of turns. Maybe 4 turns. You need to find out. If you are buying a new motor, might as well se if you can rewind the damaged coil. It's essential to not scratch the varnish but not catastrófico. I think once you get your motor, you could try to rewrite the coil slowly and gently. You will need some wooden poke sticks to shape and pack as you spool the turns around the right space. Find out the gauge, how many in parallel and how many turns. I would try since this motors only have a couple of turns per coil and not hundreds like the little motors. This rewinding is very commonly done by the drone hobby people. They require their motors to pack more power and rebuild them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 I am certain you could just epoxy the cut wire tight and forget about it ant it will just work fine. The coil wounds are like 10 wired in parallel and you only lost 1. I bet you won't even notice the difference. At worst you have one coil of 54 working at 90%. I would jut clip the damaged wire and put epoxy so it does not keep lossening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 10 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: I did pray for you, Rehab, lord knows I did! No wonder why my ears were burning... Greatly appreciated! Possibly you forgot to send in your donation to the GW Gods or are you still giving to the Ninebot Deity? If your $50 weekly GW pledge is in arrears @Marty Backe will forgive you and gladly accept your money! 10 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: I wonder if you can carefully fish that other wire out and see where the break is. Maybe soldering a copper bridge in to "reposition" the wire break where you want it to be might be something to try if it's inaccessible like in between the stator teeth. I think the idea behind the thin lacquer insulation is to try to maximize electrical field conductivity so it's best to use bare copper and insulated it after soldering with that Red Glyptol or clear epoxy resin. Apparently any clear or amber type of epoxy (eg. Gorilla Epoxy) should work according to that thread. Copper should be easy to flux and solder to. Thanks for the advice! I need to examine it more closely today! Your idea would work if I can find the 4th wire! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 10 hours ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said: I am certain you could just epoxy the cut wire tight and forget about it ant it will just work fine. The coil wounds are like 10 wired in parallel and you only lost 1. I bet you won't even notice the difference. At worst you have one coil of 54 working at 90%. I would jut clip the damaged wire and put epoxy so it does not keep lossening. I thought the same but the electric motor technician explained that a damage coil, no matter how small, could have adverse affects on the wheel's function. If I repaired it in this fashion would you step forward and be my test pilot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 3 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I thought the same but the electric motor technician explained that a damage coil, no matter how small, could have adverse affects on the wheel's function. If I repaired it in this fashion would you step forward and be my test pilot? It would surly have less torque, which is something we don't want on these. If I were re winding my motor, I would add, not remove windings. Actually, I'd match it, but definitely not remove any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 @Rehab1 Wow...that sucks! All this work and then a new Problem appears.... I dont want to take away your "motor-for-200-bucks dream"...but from my experience in GW/KS Prices you more have to expect double the Price-at least :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 4 hours ago, KingSong69 said: @Rehab1 Wow...that sucks! All this work and then a new Problem appears.... I dont want to take away your "motor-for-200-bucks dream"...but from my experience in GW/KS Prices you more have to expect double the Price-at least :-( I decided to drop off the motor to a local highly revered electric motor company. The inside of their building was a bit of a shocker, a bit disorganized, but they are suppose to do excellent work. They will call me with a price for rewinding it first. Once Ian receives the price for a new motor from Gotway I will make the determination on which avenue to take. Picture 2 depicts their work shop with my motor, picture 2 shows the lacquer buckets and 3 depicts the coil winders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos E Rodriguez Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 looks like a gateway to hockworth from harry potter. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 2 hours ago, Carlos E Rodriguez said: looks like a gateway to hockworth from harry potter. lol. Their front entrance is much nicer! This door has been busted down numerous times from thieves trying to steal copper coil inside the building! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.