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mSuper V3s+ 1600mah Won't Turn Off


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After riding it and putting it on it's side the mSuper started beeping and when I brought it upright it won't stop beeping and doesn't self balance. The motor won't work either but there is some resistance there like the wheel won't run freely/loosely. I can turn the lights on and off using the power switch but when I hold the button down to turn it off it doesn't do anything. The button seems to work so I figure it's not that, at least I don't think that's the problem. I can connect to the Gotway App and change settings, see all the stats and it beeps to confirm any changes but the euc still won't function completly (turn off, self balance and continues to beep). I opened it up and everything inside looks fine.  I've finally resorted to disconnecting the battery to get it to stop and when I connect it again it still doesn't work and does the same thing. I even tried doing a re-calibration but that didn't work either. Sometimes it does the long beep like it's trying to recalibrate but just continues to beep and the euc still won't turn off even when I push and hold the button. I've tried a bunch of things. Before this everything worked perfectly and it's only about a month old, dated July 2017.

Has anyone else experienced something similar to this? Will I need to replace the circuit board? Any ideas what could be the problem?

Thanks,

Emile

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5 hours ago, Emile Beaulieu said:

After riding it and putting it on it's side the mSuper started beeping and when I brought it upright it won't stop beeping and doesn't self balance. The motor won't work either but there is some resistance there like the wheel won't run freely/loosely. I can turn the lights on and off using the power switch but when I hold the button down to turn it off it doesn't do anything. The button seems to work so I figure it's not that, at least I don't think that's the problem. I can connect to the Gotway App and change settings, see all the stats and it beeps to confirm any changes but the euc still won't function completly (turn off, self balance and continues to beep). I opened it up and everything inside looks fine.  I've finally resorted to disconnecting the battery to get it to stop and when I connect it again it still doesn't work and does the same thing. I even tried doing a re-calibration but that didn't work either. Sometimes it does the long beep like it's trying to recalibrate but just continues to beep and the euc still won't turn off even when I push and hold the button. I've tried a bunch of things. Before this everything worked perfectly and it's only about a month old, dated July 2017.

Has anyone else experienced something similar to this? Will I need to replace the circuit board? Any ideas what could be the problem?

Thanks,

Emile

Can you be more specific regarding the beeping. Gotway wheels actually provide some diagnostics via the beeps. For instance, if there is a hall effect sensor failure you will hear 2 beeps, 1/2 second pause, then 2 beeps, etc. That's the main diagnostic which will tell you if a hall sensor has failed.

Next, when you unplug the batteries, does the wheel turn freely (I'm guessing that it does. That means the motor is OK.

So it could be a failed motor, broken connection between the control board and motor, or bad control board.

Please provide some additional information per my comments.

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I'll post a video this afternoon when I get some time so you can hear the sound it makes and see what it's doing. But for now the wheel doesn't turn freely when it's powered on or even after I disconnect the battery and it's off. It will turn but there is some resistance. It sounds like the wheel is trying to re-calibrate itself and I can go through the steps of re-calibration but then at the end when it does the long constant beep and you are supposed to turn the power off with the button I can't because the power button won't allow me to turn it off for some reason. No matter how long I hold it down. But if i push the button it turns on the light, the flash and then no light. I'll post a link to the video this afternoon.

Thanks,

Emile

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Here's a video of what the wheel is doing and also an attached picture of the control board. Sorry for the low quality video but you get the idea. This wheel is only about a month old and I was really enjoying it while it worked. Would be nice to get it fixed quickly. I suspect it's something wrong with the motor, hall sensor or control board. Any ideas would be appreciated on things to try or solutions.

Thanks,

Emile

 

 

 

IMG_5520.JPG

Edited by Emile Beaulieu
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12 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

A little context. My ACM failed in a similar manner because the wires near the motor connectors melted enough to allow two of the motor wires to short together. That blew two of my MOSFETs (control board). The motor wire also melted into one of the Hall Sensor wires and therefore destroyed one of the Hall Sensors. So I had to replace my motor and control board.

Didn't you have to replace the parts of the wires that shorted together?  I forget how you did that.  I think you cut out the sections that had melted the insulation and shorted together and then soldered the wires back together, right?  You made a video of the repairs, I think, it's probably in the mods and repairs section of the forum.  And then you separated the wires so even if the insulation melted again, there would be no chance of shorting again.

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41 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Didn't you have to replace the parts of the wires that shorted together?  I forget how you did that.  I think you cut out the sections that had melted the insulation and shorted together and then soldered the wires back together, right?  You made a video of the repairs, I think, it's probably in the mods and repairs section of the forum.  And then you separated the wires so even if the insulation melted again, there would be no chance of shorting again.

Yes, since the connectors were messed up, I opted to cut out the connectors and solder everything together, including adding some extra length of wire for possible future repairs. I figure that the odds of having to swap out a motor or control board more than once is so low, soldering is a viable option.

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6 hours ago, Jason McNeil said:

In every single case I've come across of resistance while powered off—and there must be at twenty such cases over the years—has been invariably owing to a MOSFET failure. You'll need to contact the party who sold you the Wheel, to coordinate getting a new board replacement. 

Thanks Jason McNeil and Marty Backe for the info. I'm even more confused now as to what could be the problem between your two posts but I think I'll contact the person who sold the euc wheel to me and see if they can help me out before I go any further. I hope it's just a simple control board replacement. If Gotway says it's ok I would like to pull the control board to see what the remaining 6 mosfet's look like if there's any indication as to them being burnt out then I would know for sure that's the problem but I don't want to void the warranty without first getting permission.  I really hope it's not the hall sensor or motor problems since that is way more work than I think I am even capable of doing. I'll let you know what I figure out though.

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2 hours ago, Emile Beaulieu said:

Thanks Jason McNeil and Marty Backe for the info. I'm even more confused now as to what could be the problem between your two posts but I think I'll contact the person who sold the euc wheel to me and see if they can help me out before I go any further. I hope it's just a simple control board replacement. If Gotway says it's ok I would like to pull the control board to see what the remaining 6 mosfet's look like if there's any indication as to them being burnt out then I would know for sure that's the problem but I don't want to void the warranty without first getting permission.  I really hope it's not the hall sensor or motor problems since that is way more work than I think I am even capable of doing. I'll let you know what I figure out though.

Jason and my comments were not contradictory. I can clarify any further questions you may have, but I believe you have all the information that you need to further diagnose the problem. I would just about bet my paycheck that you have a failed Hall Sensor - the Gotway diagnostic beep is telling you that.

The Gotway MOSFETs are operated in parallel. Since the top row of six look good, the bottom row are most likely good. So I believe when you disconnect the 3 motor wires your wheel will still be stiff. There was probably a catastrophic failure inside the motor. But again, if you do a little bit more testing you will clarify this.

Remember, these wheels are fundamentally very simple. Batteries, a control board, a motor, and wiring harness. 

Good luck.

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Thanks again for the extra clarification and info. I disconnected the battery connection to the circuit board and disconnected the three motor cables and the wheel is still not spinning freely which is really bad news. Looks like the motor is the problem. I've already contacted my dealer and he is contacting gotway for a solution. Let you know what I find out.

Emile

Edited by Emile Beaulieu
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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
On 2017-11-02 at 4:42 AM, Smoother said:

SOOOOO! What did you find out?

Ok, so after about over 4 months since my mSuper died, I finally got it back fixed. 

After much back and forth with green and fashion. They sent me a replacement motherboard which I installed and it didn’t fix it, as soon as I turned the power on it blew the mossfits. I ended up mailing back the wheel for warranty repair work at my cost of $270 cdn.  Shipping took 3 months but any other carrier was twice the price. I received the euc about a week ago. They replaced the wheel/motor and motherboard and also included another new extra motherboard. The motherboard that was installed in the wheel is a newer version with a small cooling fan mounted on the aluminum casing of the motherboard so that it will blow air above and below the board.  I’m very happy about the upgraded cooling fan and can’t wait to see how much it makes a difference of the internal temperature. I was never told what the problem was but can surmise that it was a blown mossfit and also a faulty hall sensor in the the wheel. Anyways, I haven’t fully tested it out yet since it’s winter here and the ground is covered in ice and snow. But I’m glad to have my baby back and can’t wait to ride and test it out in the spring. 

Edited by Emile Beaulieu
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17 minutes ago, Emile Beaulieu said:

Ok, so after about over 4 months since my mSuper died, I finally got it back fixed. 

After much back and forth with green and fashion. They sent me a replacement motherboard which I installed and it didn’t fix it, as soon as I turned the power on it blew the mossfits. I ended up mailing back the wheel for warranty repair work at my cost of $270 cdn.  Shipping took 3 months but any other carrier was twice the price. I received the euc about a week ago. They replaced the wheel/motor and motherboard and also included another new extra motherboard. The motherboard that was installed in the wheel is a newer version with a small cooling fan mounted on the aluminum casing of the motherboard so that it will blow air above and below the board.  I’m very happy about the upgraded cooling fan and can’t wait to see how much it makes a difference of the internal temperature. I was never told what the problem was but can surmise that it was a blown mossfit and also a faulty hall sensor in the the wheel. Anyways, I haven’t fully tested it out yet since it’s winter here and the ground is covered in ice and snow. But I’m glad to have my baby back and can’t wait to ride and test it out in the spring. 

Looks like Gotway is putting fans on all of their wheels now. From my experience (lots of tough mountain riding in hot temperatures) the MSuper and ACM essentially never overheated. It's only their wheels that have fans that overheat must easier :(

Glad that you have a working MSuper again.

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38 minutes ago, Emile Beaulieu said:

Ok, so after about over 4 months since my mSuper died, I finally got it back fixed. 

After much back and forth with green and fashion. They sent me a replacement motherboard which I installed and it didn’t fix it, as soon as I turned the power on it blew the mossfits. I ended up mailing back the wheel for warranty repair work at my cost of $270 cdn.  Shipping took 3 months but any other carrier was twice the price. I received the euc about a week ago. They replaced the wheel/motor and motherboard and also included another new extra motherboard. The motherboard that was installed in the wheel is a newer version with a small cooling fan mounted on the aluminum casing of the motherboard so that it will blow air above and below the board.  I’m very happy about the upgraded cooling fan and can’t wait to see how much it makes a difference of the internal temperature. I was never told what the problem was but can surmise that it was a blown mossfit and also a faulty hall sensor in the the wheel. Anyways, I haven’t fully tested it out yet since it’s winter here and the ground is covered in ice and snow. But I’m glad to have my baby back and can’t wait to ride and test it out in the spring. 

Perhaps/Maybe you received one of the really new versions of the v3s+....afaik, when you are having a fan now, that is a good sign.

If so, your wheel should be much more responsive and harder  then before! Could you provide some photos of the board? Then we can perpaps say more....also a photo of the motor serial number/letters on the rim would be interesting!

Edited by KingSong69
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Sorry, I didn’t take a picture of the motherboard with the fan. But I took a couple pics of the motherboard serial number and wheel serial numbers. I’m not at home for a couple weeks so I don’t have access to my wheel till I’m back.  I’m not sure what the HB means?

 

DB0F39DB-5823-4F2C-B340-F9574041F03D.jpeg

Edited by Emile Beaulieu
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