US69 Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 14 minutes ago, esaj said: Another KS16S -rider (@Lukasz) said he had 1.02 pre-installed when the wheel came, mine was on 1.00. The last I checked (which is at least several weeks ago, but still later than when he got his 1.02), it wasn't available through the app. so maybe, maybe this is just a wrong firmware fault? Didn't you check on the availability of firmware files/bins on the Ks website? really.....never heard of a Ks16 tilting forward while driving :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 I ordered mine on June 26th, the seller said they will forward the order to the factory. Tracking code became active 28th, so I would assume it is latest batch, shipped soon after the 28th. Very interested to see if this firmware hunting reveals something! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted July 13, 2017 Author Share Posted July 13, 2017 Holy duck. I spent the better part of a second hour in the woods in the middle of the night calibrating, looking at my phone laying on the pedals while riding various speeds and terrains, etc. The issue has been SOLVED. My senses were utterly and completely out of whack. My KS-16S does NOT tilt forward. My feet are so accustomed to the Lhotz after 2600+ km that they didn't know what a flat level feels like. I'm ashamed of my body. In a way that I don't think anyone has ever been. Or will ever be for that matter. Edit: I LOVE my KS-16S! Especially on the hard mode! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 18 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Did anybody try the 16S and the 84V ACM, or the 18S and the 84V msuper V3, and can compare? Will the Gotways still feel stronger, and how big is the difference? My wife's KS 16S arrives Monday. It will be fun to compare her wheel with my ACM 1600 now that it is back together again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 6 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: My wife's KS 16S arrives Monday. It will be fun to compare her wheel with my ACM 1600 now that it is back together again. Really interested if you "feel" the 1200W vs 1500W difference, and the difference due to form factors and weights. Which one feels more powerful, acceleration, high speed behavior, etc. 45 minutes ago, mrelwood said: My feet are so accustomed to the Lhotz after 2600+ km that they didn't know what a flat level feels like. Over 500 km per month? Not bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanghamP Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 3 hours ago, mrelwood said: I ordered mine on June 26th, the seller said they will forward the order to the factory. Tracking code became active 28th, so I would assume it is latest batch, shipped soon after the 28th. Very interested to see if this firmware hunting reveals something! My tracking code says "label created" for July 5 but nothing else. I got the all-black version which evidently took a week to make. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 31 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said: Really interested if you "feel" the 1200W vs 1500W difference, and the difference due to form factors and weights. Which one feels more powerful, acceleration, high speed behavior, etc. Remember it is my wife's wheel so I need to get permission! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scatcat Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I would like to test the KS16S too, see how the 1200W feels like compared to the 2000W I have in my GT16... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted July 14, 2017 Author Share Posted July 14, 2017 34 minutes ago, Scatcat said: I would like to test the KS16S too, see how the 1200W feels like compared to the 2000W I have in my GT16... I would think that at these power levels the difference the rider can feel in sane conditions is just in the programming. If I understand correctly, you'd need a long crazy steep uphill to consume the peak power and reach the "rated" territory. I just rode the cross-country skiing trails that my 520Wh Lhotz couldn't handle. The steepest uphill was past what I could've climbed up in my youth mountain bike years. Couldn't consume past 1300W with the KS-16S, even when accelerating as much as I dared. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scatcat Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 11 hours ago, mrelwood said: I would think that at these power levels the difference the rider can feel in sane conditions is just in the programming. If I understand correctly, you'd need a long crazy steep uphill to consume the peak power and reach the "rated" territory. I just rode the cross-country skiing trails that my 520Wh Lhotz couldn't handle. The steepest uphill was past what I could've climbed up in my youth mountain bike years. Couldn't consume past 1300W with the KS-16S, even when accelerating as much as I dared. Yeah I read you. My power meter in the app usually tops at 60% even when going uphill fast, that is about 1200-1300W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techflyjy Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Got my matte black ks16s 2 days ago. It has lg 840wh battery instead of Sanyo and firmware is 1.02.I assume thats newest one. Haven't ride that much yet because the weather, will report back . Question: I have ks14c charger. Can i use that to charge 16s too? From the lable they all have same spec. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 15 minutes ago, techflyjy said: Got my matte black ks16s 2 days ago. It has lg 840wh battery instead of Sanyo and firmware is 1.02.I assume thats newest one. Haven't ride that much yet because the weather, will report back . Question: I have ks14c charger. Can i use that to charge 16s too? From the lable they all have same spec. Thanks. Should work just fine, as both are 67.2V chargers. I actually use the KS16S + Firewheel -charger with 2-input Charge Doctor to charge the KS16S. Doesn't seem to matter that they have slightly different voltages, around 67.2xx for the KS16S original, 67.8V for the Firewheel, although both state 67.2V on the labels. The charge still terminates at 67.2V according to the Charge Doctor. The voltages seem to vary a little bit from one charger to the next, as they're usually adjusted by trimpots, they can likely drift a bit. A few weeks back, I just adjusted friends' fast charger (the aluminum cased one with optional 80% or 90% charge, ordered from Jason McNeil with KS16B in the spring of 2016), that was putting out something like 66.5 or 66.7V (don't remember exactly, still a good bit below 67.2V) even when set to 100% charge and never actually balanced the cells. I set it to something like 67.25V, to make sure the balancing runs, shouldn't make much of a difference for the cells (on average, the cells should get up to 67.25V / 16 cells = 4.203125V / cell). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 44 minutes ago, techflyjy said: Got my matte black ks16s 2 days ago. Congrats! Hopefully the weather is more cooperative for you this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pard Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 On 7/15/2017 at 7:40 AM, esaj said: Should work just fine, as both are 67.2V chargers. I actually use the KS16S + Firewheel -charger with 2-input Charge Doctor to charge the KS16S. Doesn't seem to matter that they have slightly different voltages, around 67.2xx for the KS16S original, 67.8V for the Firewheel, although both state 67.2V on the labels. The charge still terminates at 67.2V according to the Charge Doctor. The voltages seem to vary a little bit from one charger to the next, as they're usually adjusted by trimpots, they can likely drift a bit. A few weeks back, I just adjusted friends' fast charger (the aluminum cased one with optional 80% or 90% charge, ordered from Jason McNeil with KS16B in the spring of 2016), that was putting out something like 66.5 or 66.7V (don't remember exactly, still a good bit below 67.2V) even when set to 100% charge and never actually balanced the cells. I set it to something like 67.25V, to make sure the balancing runs, shouldn't make much of a difference for the cells (on average, the cells should get up to 67.25V / 16 cells = 4.203125V / cell). How did you adjust the fast charger to balance the cells in the end? I have the fast charger for the Msuper from eWheels and it cuts at 83.2 instead of 84.4 even when set to 100% charge. It will not reach a true 100% charge and balance the cells, so I switch to the standard dumb charger after the fast charger cuts off, to top off and balance the cells. I ordered a charge doctor to make sure I can balance the cells with some certainty rather than using the dumb charger.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 6 hours ago, Pard said: How did you adjust the fast charger to balance the cells in the end? I have the fast charger for the Msuper from eWheels and it cuts at 83.2 instead of 84.4 even when set to 100% charge. It will not reach a true 100% charge and balance the cells, so I switch to the standard dumb charger after the fast charger cuts off, to top off and balance the cells. I just adjusted the output voltage, the actual balancing is handled by the BMS(s) inside the battery pack(s). There were four trimpots inside the charger, one for voltage, one for max current, one adjusted when the led showing charging/full will turn from red to green and the last one... I don't know, maybe it was for the partial charge. At least I think there were four. Anyway, I used a multimeter to see which trimpot affects the output voltage by turning each half or one turn (and turning it right back to original position if it didn't affect the output voltage). I recall I needed to go through them at least twice before the output voltage would start to change... If you try the same, be careful, the charger must be powered to see the output and there are parts running at mains voltage inside. To lower the chance of accidentally short circuiting something with the metallic shaft of a screwdriver, I actually used a plastic covered "screwdriver" that's normally used to adjust oscilloscope probe compensation: It's easier to see the output voltage changing upwards, because there are (or at least should be) large filtering/bypass caps at the output, they might keep the voltage high when the output should have already dropped (multimeters don't draw much current at something like 10M typical input impedance with voltage measurement). So if nothing happens with the output voltage and you've already gone through all the trimpots (and turned them back to where they were), try turning them in the other direction (clockwise vs. counterclockwise). Once you find the correct trimpot, adjust slowly and monitor the output voltage. Accurate high precision multimeter helps there, as you can see very small changes in the voltage, I used a HP34401a with 0.0035% base accuracy for DC voltage and 6½ digits, but it should be doable with a basic multimeter too (you just won't see as small changes). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pard Posted August 14, 2017 Share Posted August 14, 2017 Not for the faint of heart. I may give that a try. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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