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Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh


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On 9/22/2023 at 6:03 PM, stizl said:

I have them also and they’re great. Just make sure to secure them somehow if you ride off road or do jumps, as the friction fit isn’t very strong. I lost one but backtracked and found it, and someone else earlier in this thread lost one too. 

You can either put double-sided tape underneath if you don’t expect frequent suspension adjustments, or put Velcro on the sides to the Velcro on the battery boxes.

You can also just use baby bumper foam on the wheel itself. I did both, but the wheel felt too wide at the top, so I notched the baby bumper foam down off the sides of the AliExpress pads. They now stay in place and accessing the suspension caps is a breeze  

image.thumb.jpeg.ebeab37c45e975cc90580b1e2d06fb5a.jpeg

 

i failed to heed this sage advice and have been practicing jumps with my bumper cushions on...lost one lol. now having to order another set.

and these weren't any major jumps. i'm totally new to it so all i was doing was tiny jumps in place, maybe few inches of air off the ground, and dropping off curbs. still lost one. so......another warning

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26 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Small pieces of Velcro on the sides is enough to keep them on and easily take them off if needed. 👍

yea i will definitely try that when i get the new ones. just outta curiosity what made you decide to sell the patton?

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6 minutes ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

yea i will definitely try that when i get the new ones. just outta curiosity what made you decide to sell the patton?

Where did you get that from? I haven't sold my Patton. 😅

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On 10/2/2023 at 8:37 AM, stizl said:

Here is a photo of all three tires, obviously with only the Shinko mounted, but you can get a clear sense of the profile differences

Awesome feedback. I believe I had that same model tire on a honda cb125 that I used to play on. I thought it was better than the cheap road tires that the bike came with originally. Mine were kenda block trail, but I believe they were also sold as golden boy and shinko.

One thing with the profiles - you can't really tell what they are unless the tires are mounted on the rim that you intend to use them on. A tire in it's relaxed position (not mounted) will rarely be at the same width (between beads) as the rim. Some tires actually come pretty squashed, or spread out in one area and closed in on the other.

 

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On 10/9/2023 at 8:15 PM, Uras said:

Mine were kenda block trail, but I believe they were also sold as golden boy and shinko.

One thing with the profiles - you can't really tell what they are unless the tires are mounted on the rim that you intend to use them on. A tire in it's relaxed position (not mounted) will rarely be at the same width (between beads) as the rim.

Indeed, I purchased a Shinko, there was a Shinko decal on it, but the sidewall says Golden Boy. The Shinko website also lists Golden Boy in the description. 

Regarding the profile, I agree that they can’t really be judged when not mounted. My original Patton knobby started off more rounded, (but not as much as the Shinko) then wore quickly to a flatter profile. I believe the biggest difference in the performance comes from the stiffer construction and firmer tread lugs of the Shinko. After about six hours of mostly trail riding on it, I am very happy with the performance.  It just has much more feel and feedback from the ground/road and for me is easier to read, to ride near the limit, and to recover if you go past the limit. 

For mounted and inflated side-by-side comparison, I cobbled together these screenshots from my phone. The 600mi stock knobby on the left, Shinko on the right, and unmounted stock tire on the top right. 

image.jpeg

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On 10/9/2023 at 7:15 AM, Uras said:

Those bolts are still mounting into soft aluminium - that alone has put me off the patton.

Aren’t the pedal or suspension brackets bolted to soft aluminum on all EUCs?

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On 10/13/2023 at 6:20 PM, mrelwood said:

Aren’t the pedal or suspension brackets bolted to soft aluminum on all EUCs?

geez, I'd hope not. The pedals on my 16x are supported by an axle so the stress is carried by big chunks of aluminium and not supported by any threads. They're quite tough - I've hammered mine hitting kerbs - not my strong point. mtb suspension bikes are high end aluminium - they generally don't thread into aluminium though, unless it's just to lock (not support) - same as my 16x. Suspension and pivot bolts are generally shafts supported by aluminium mounts - quite chunky. Threads are only for holding the shaft / bolts in place, not providing support.

I can't imagine why a suspension euc would mount with a dependence on thread when through bolts would be much stronger, more reliable. Luckily I'm not in any hurry to buy something with poor design like that.

Edited by Uras
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Apparently there now exists 70lb springs for the Patton:

image.thumb.jpeg.37c0787cab5940912e1bd65adb3b34b0.jpeg

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ElectricUnicycle/permalink/6705766859521220/

 

We recieved the 70lb shock upgrade for Patton this week at Ride One.
I always said although the suspension on Patton is stellar, it needed to be a little stronger.
Coming from the 62lb to the 70lb makes it capable of any drops any jumps without bottoming out(within reason)
In my opinion we now have the perfect off road machine! Thank you Mr Jack Electric Dreams for the underground hookup!
We will be dropping a co prison video for the 62,66 and 70lb suspension on Patton soon!

 

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On 10/9/2023 at 12:43 PM, Rawnei said:

Small pieces of Velcro on the sides is enough to keep them on and easily take them off if needed. 👍

What velcro strips do you use? i bought some regular ones at home depot and for some reason the glue on them doesn't stick well to the surface of the bumpers or the necessary spots on the EUC. they also have some "heavy duty" ones that are rated to hold up 10 lb instead of 5lb but i'm wondering if that might just be a rating for the strength of the velcro grip, and might have the same glue issue.

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4 hours ago, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

What velcro strips do you use? i bought some regular ones at home depot and for some reason the glue on them doesn't stick well to the surface of the bumpers or the necessary spots on the EUC. they also have some "heavy duty" ones that are rated to hold up 10 lb instead of 5lb but i'm wondering if that might just be a rating for the strength of the velcro grip, and might have the same glue issue.

Velcro with good glue is a real challenge to find, "Heavy duty" velcro refers to the velcro part and not the glue which matter more for our use case, unfortunately I can't give you any good recommendations, here locally we used to buy them in a local store in Sweden called Biltema which had their own brand Velcro, they don't sell their stock online and they stopped carrying their velcro in store for a while also so we're out of luck here too.

Amazon is a jungle of Velcro with plenty of mixed reviews so difficult to know what's what.

Perhaps possible to find something good on AliExpress or go around asking in hardware store about the glue specifically.

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Isn’t it more to do with good preparation of the surface that the glue should stick down on to?     The adonised finish on the battery shells on the ‘S’ is not the best for adhesion (plastic shells were better in this regard), but a little time spent on cleaning/preparing the surface might give good results, as could possibly fixing an intermediary tape or layer between the shell and the Velcro.    Adonised alloy sealing bars on vacuum chamber machines for example typically require an intermediary tape in order for the sealing bar covering tape (made of Teflon) to adhere to it.

Edit - might be worth trying to see whether eg gorilla tape holds well on the surface of the shell, if so, stick your velcro on top of that? Edit 2 - a toluene based impact adhesive glue like Bostik might also work - apply a thin layer, and let it dry. Then apply the Velcro on that?

Edited by Freeforester
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*warning* more thread derailment coming! 
There is definitely a difference in glue quality between brands of hook and loop. There are a few tricks you can do to help. Obviously clean and prep the surface first. Use a hairdryer to warm up the sticky side of your Velcro before adhering. Peel off the backing, then warm up decently and push firmly in place. Use the backside of a spoon to make sure it’s pressed down everywhere. Depending on what you’re sticking it to you can also use contact cement on the surface first. Let it set. Then stick the glue side to that. You can also combo both of those techniques. Just keep in mind the contact cement needs to be compatible with whatever surface you’re going to use it on. 

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I've had no problem getting the Velcro brand heavy duty stuff to stick to the magnesium alloy of my Sherman S (I presume it is very similar to the Patton), try wiping with Isopropyl alcohol first, then letting it evaporate, before sticking the Velcro on. I can pick up my Sherman S by the power pads, the pads hold to the Velcro and the Velcro holds to the surface of my Sherman S.

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8 hours ago, Freeforester said:

Isn’t it more to do with good preparation of the surface that the glue should stick down on to?     The adonised finish on the battery shells on the ‘S’ is not the best for adhesion (plastic shells were better in this regard), but a little time spent on cleaning/preparing the surface might give good results, as could possibly fixing an intermediary tape or layer between the shell and the Velcro.    Adonised alloy sealing bars on vacuum chamber machines for example typically require an intermediary tape in order for the sealing bar covering tape (made of Teflon) to adhere to it.

Edit - might be worth trying to see whether eg gorilla tape holds well on the surface of the shell, if so, stick your velcro on top of that? Edit 2 - a toluene based impact adhesive glue like Bostik might also work - apply a thin layer, and let it dry. Then apply the Velcro on that?

A lot of (most?) velcro has shitty glue regardless how much preparation you do, but yes always clean/degrease the surface first.

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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

A lot of (most?) velcro has shitty glue regardless how much preparation you do, but yes always clean/degrease the surface first.

 

- Might that not be generic hook and loop material, as opposed to the trademarked ‘Velcro’ with proper 3M adhesive?

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On 10/14/2023 at 6:19 PM, Uras said:

geez, I'd hope not. The pedals on my 16x are supported by an axle so the stress is carried by big chunks of aluminium and not supported by any threads. They're quite tough - I've hammered mine hitting kerbs - not my strong point. mtb suspension bikes are high end aluminium - they generally don't thread into aluminium though, unless it's just to lock (not support) - same as my 16x. Suspension and pivot bolts are generally shafts supported by aluminium mounts - quite chunky. Threads are only for holding the shaft / bolts in place, not providing support.

I can't imagine why a suspension euc would mount with a dependence on thread when through bolts would be much stronger, more reliable. Luckily I'm not in any hurry to buy something with poor design like that.

I highly doubt this is a huge problem. There are 8 screws to distribute the force too. We would have heard problems about this already

 

I did some calculations for the force requirement to strip the threads on a male 6061 bolt, which I assume is similar to the female aluminum threads on the pedal bracket. https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/force_required_strip_15799.htm. 900 lbs just for one thread to break. Because your weight is distributed to 8 bolts, you'll need 900 * 8 = 7200 pounds of force to rip it straight out. Not sure how to calculate the force applied to the threads by your weight torquing on the pedal bracket, but I doubt it's 7200 lbs. To double check, The aluminum suspension clamp strips at like 12nm of force guestimating, which the clamp force where the threads strip is around 900 lbs (https://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/torque_calc.htm). Someone definitely double check my math pleaseimage.thumb.png.272e1c3516510eeb3e50992c3bb4cb87.png

Edited by Critzlez
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So i am at work and have my stock charger with me for the Patton, never had problem plugging in the connector but now looking at it some of the pins are slightly bent on the port (on the wheel). The connector from the charger has 5 slots  and the patton has 6 pin...How do you get 6 pins into the 5 slots? 

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2 minutes ago, WILSONEUC said:

So i am at work and have my stock charger with me for the Patton, never had problem plugging in the connector but now looking at it some of the pins are slightly bent on the port (on the wheel). The connector from the charger has 5 slots  and the patton has 6 pin...How do you get 6 pins into the 5 slots? 

Sounds like you brought the wrong charger to work.

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3 minutes ago, Paradox said:

Sounds like you brought the wrong charger to work.

no, its the black 5a charger that came in the box for the Patton, and it had 5 slots on the head

Edited by WILSONEUC
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6 minutes ago, WILSONEUC said:

no, its the black 5a charger that came in the box for the Patton, and it had 5 slots on the head

5 pins is the 100v Sherman charger.  You brought the wrong charger to work.

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