New Veteran "Abrams" 22-inch Wheel

[alex5454]

Quote

I would say zero. You were pushing the top speed. My bet is that you were actually reaching the maximum output of the batteries. I'm curious what your amp draw as the time. I'd also worry that a big bump would dump me at that speed.

I did not look at any other data, however I was on a perfectly smooth new road, with pressure at 1.7 bar, rider weight 70 Kg full equipment .. in my opinion I had just activated 80% output I had margin

[alex5454]

On 11/13/2022 at 4:51 PM, kiitick said:

I would say zero. You were pushing the top speed. My bet is that you were actually reaching the maximum output of the batteries. I'm curious what your amp draw as the time. I'd also worry that a big bump would dump me at that speed.

 

Hi, new speed record today with full battery

[kiitick]

Just as I suspected. Your amperage is WAY over the max continuous voltage for that battery pack.  The max sustained draw is just under 10amps, with 24s6p, you're looking at 60 amps. Your highest spike is double that amperage at 120. The PEAK should be less than 15 amps per pack, for a total of 90 (not sustained). I think it's awesome that you are going that fast, but the batteries aren't designed for that amp draw. You'll damage them by doing that. 

[techyiam]

On 11/7/2022 at 10:40 PM, Kekafuch said:

My chassis is flexing where the tire will easily rub the inner fender. It does seem the flex is from the bar that spans the axle to the front/back but I am not sure. 

I think it is exactly that.

I went back to watch Kevin's videos on the Abrams. In one of the earlier videos, he complained that the cross-bar that spans front to back to provide mounting points for the front and rear crash bars were made of steel and thus can rust. In a later video, Kevin mentioned that the production version now has the cross-bar made of aluminum alloy. Unfortunately, the alloy bar looks to have exact dimensions as the steel one. The problem is that aluminium alloy is significantly weaker and less stiff than steel. Leaper Kim in their haste attempt to make Kevin happy and to keep costs down to a minimum, did not redesign the part to suit aluminium alloy. They just switched the material used to make the bar.

And hence, the structure is a lot less stiff.

Edited November 18, 2022 by techyiam

[alex5454]

On 11/13/2022 at 1:46 AM, I2x2 said:

Hello to everyone on this chat! I’m looking to get a the vet Abrams but it’s been a while since I’ve looked into it. Last I’ve read is that they had a lot of cut out issues but now it’s fixed. And the new batches (second batch) now have no issues due to new motor and firmware updates. If that’s true what’s the motor date/serial number is the ones with no issues ?

Hi, I always travel around the 50-60 km/H maximum speed ...that was just a test.

[techyiam]

2 hours ago, alex5454 said:

I always travel around the 50-60 km/H maximum speed ...

Among your wheels, how would you rank them in terms of stability and how planted they feel at 60 km/h or higher?

[alex5454]

1 hour ago, techyiam said:

Among your wheels, how would you rank them in terms of stability and how planted they feel at 60 km/h or higher?

Hi, Abrams comfort is one of my favorite wheels mostly because of the roll bars. 22" is really the best you feel the difference when you switch to a 20" especially at high speeds... even if I have to say the master with shock absorber is really comfortable but it is very sensitive ... you are higher .. I think a wheel type master PRO 22" with shock absorber would be truly definitive on long journeys ... the shock absorber does a lot but at high speeds you need to know how to control the wheel especially in case of braking it is not so simple compared to one without shock absorber.

[techyiam]

27 minutes ago, alex5454 said:

the shock absorber does a lot but at high speeds you need to know how to control the wheel especially in case of braking it is not so simple compared to one without shock absorber.

Thank you for your detailed reply.

Interesting about braking at high speeds with suspension. Inmotion V13 has the option to remove the suspension. This option could prove useful for some riders adapting to it and at higher speed riding. 

 

Edited November 18, 2022 by techyiam

[techyiam]

Does anyone know the difference between the first batch motors and the new motors?

Supposedly, around the Feb-Mar timeframe, motor production got an update on the hall sensors. However, the new motor is supposedly be something different than that.

Does anyone has an Abrams with the new motor? 

[techyiam]

Has anyone bought an Abrams from EEVEES sometimes this month in their Neon November Sale?

[Fuerte]

I did and I love it. Haven’t ridden to much yet, but very large and stable.

[techyiam]

3 hours ago, Fuerte said:

I did and I love it. Haven’t ridden to much yet, but very large and stable.

EEVEES supposedly ships out their Abrams with the new motor. Can you check yours to see if there is a stamped manufacturer code and production date on the motor rim? Thanks.

[Fuerte]

They said, new motor, new tire and updated firmware. I would pull the trigger, it rides nice.

[Hellkitten]

My buddy had a few cutouts with the old motor and firmware. He’s since upgraded both and hasn’t had an issue. He’s ridden it hard for a few k and said the trusts it now. It’s his favourite wheel now. 

Edited November 21, 2022 by Hellkitten

[techyiam]

5 minutes ago, Hellkitten said:

My buddy had a few cutouts with the old motor and firmware.

You wouldn't happen to know what was improved on the new motor?

[Hellkitten]

3 hours ago, techyiam said:

You wouldn't happen to know what was improved on the new motor?

I have no idea. Sorry. We were hanging out while riding and I asked him about trusting his Abrams and he said after installing the motor and firmware he’s had zero problems.  We never went deeper then that. I’ll try and ask him next time we chat. 

[techyiam]

I need a favor from those who have purchased an Abrams recently to check their motors for the date code. It's stamped on outer rim of the motor cover.

For example, 

211000xx   (2021, October) 

220100xx   (2022, January) 

I think the code is year then month of manufacture.

Supposedly, motors that were manufactured around February 2022 or later have the new hall effect sensors.

Thanks.

 

Edited November 24, 2022 by techyiam

[techyiam]

Madpack and others who have updated their firmware from the original version 2.0.02 to a later version complained that for a light rider (70 to 75 kg), it takes much more effort to brake.

Can someone confirm whether this is true or not?

Also, has any light rider (70-75 kg) never experienced a cutout below 8 km/h regardless of firmware versions. 

And lastly, for those who have ridden firmware 2.0.02 and the latest version 2.2.15? confirm that the latest firmware doesn't make braking higher effort? 

[InfiniteWheelie]

Does anyone know if it's possible to remove these plastics bits on the metal tubing? I haven't taken apart my Abrams to check.

Edited December 4, 2022 by InfiniteWheelie

[techyiam]

13 minutes ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Does anyone know if it's possible to remove these plastics bits on the metal tubing? I haven't taken apart my Abrams to check.

I haven't remove my battery packs yet, but it is very straightforward to do. Plenty of disassembly videos showing that.

However, I have remove a pedal. Also, very straightforward to do since my Abrams is new, and thus no oxidation yet.

To remove the the pedals, it is just two hex screws at either end. I used a Chinese takeout chopstick to push the pedal rod out.

To remove the battery packs, it is just five hex screws per pack. Just make sure you disconnect the battery cable connector before taking away the pack.

I did look at cutting out the plastic trim of the battery pack that covers the crash bar. I think it can be done. But if you do, it will leave a large gap next to the wheel in the front view.

[InfiniteWheelie]

10 hours ago, techyiam said:

I did look at cutting out the plastic trim of the battery pack that covers the crash bar. I think it can be done. But if you do, it will leave a large gap next to the wheel in the front view.

Is it a separate piece that can be removed, or part of the rest of the battery pack and would need to be cut?

That gap is the reason I want to remove them, so it’s easier to lock the rim.

 

Edited December 4, 2022 by InfiniteWheelie

[techyiam]

19 minutes ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Is it a separate piece that can be removed, or part of the rest of the battery pack and would need to be cut?

Nope. It would need to be cut. They are molded together as one piece. Also, once cut, the side of the battery pack would like it's been hacked, unfinished.

The pedals Hex screws are 5mm. The battery pack Hex screws are 4mm.

I just unfastened one battery pack, and took a close look underneath.

[Kekafuch]

1 minute ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Is it a separate piece that can be removed, or part of the rest of the battery pack and would need to be cut? 

That gap is the reason I want to remove them, so it's easier to lock the rim.

 

32 minutes ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Is it a separate piece that can be removed, or part of the rest of the battery pack and would need to be cut? 

That gap is the reason I want to remove them, so it's easier to lock the rim.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ca5gGcilg5k/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

He also went and removed the bars in other mods but cannot find the pics anymore. Reinforced w angles under the shell.

[techyiam]

Oh, another thing with cutting off the "wings tips" on either side of the battery pack, your crash bars will not be as sturdy. They actually provide some support to these bars.

Another thing is, if the crash bars mounting screws are loosening first before installing the battery packs, the creaking noises coming from grabbing the crash bars can go away.

Edited December 7, 2022 by techyiam

[techyiam]

I did the EUC Upgrades (Kevin) capacitor upgrade on my Abrams. 

I bought the capacitors from the linked site he provided. As he had warned, shipping was slow, but the capacitors are exactly the same ones that are already on the board. I added two capacitors, making it a total of 4 capacitors. I also switched to Soft Mode. My first impression after the mod, is that it is now smoother, snappier, and more responsive. Starting from rest, the motor is a bit quieter. So it is almost silent.

I am wanting to add 2 more capacitors, making it a total of six.

Has anyone tried the 6 capacitors configuration?