WARNING!!! genuine Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger can fry itself and the Sherman's control board! (You can open the charger and look at its capacitors to see if you are affected. Be careful.)

[fbhb]

3 hours ago, Planemo said:

@fbhb, are you able to measure the length and width of the big caps please?

Hey, @Planemo the HKLCON 220uf caps are 22mm diameter and 32mm tall.  Hope that helps, most probably an unknown Chinese brand so good luck.

 

Edit: By the way @Planemo, please also check out this New Warning topic I started earlier today if you have not already. Especially seeing as you have just taken delivery of a Sherman with the New wider rim.

 

Edited May 22, 2021 by fbhb

[Planemo]

1 hour ago, fbhb said:

Hey, @Planemo the HKLCON 220uf caps are 22mm diameter and 32mm tall.  Hope that helps, most probably an unknown Chinese brand so good luck

Ah so they are fatter (by 4mm) but shorter (by 5mm).

Max height available within the case is about 38mm so the 150uF's are already nearly as tall as they can be. I would say the 22mm diameter of the 220uF's is also the max.

I will see what I can find on RS, Farnell and Mouser. I really dont want to use anyone else following a previous job I did where I recieved some fully marked and stamped Infinion mosfets but they were counterfeit.

[Boogieman]

On 5/21/2021 at 8:52 PM, Planemo said:

Cheers for that. Yeah its a bit of a minefield, when I changed the caps in one of my ebike chargers a while back I was given the direct link and only needed to know the voltage and uF. Starting from scratch with this one is a bit tricky. I will go for the highest ripple but I dont know if doing so reduces capacity in some other area!

Edit: ok I have hit a bit of a brick wall. There really isnt much space inside the case to play with. The stock caps are around 36mm tall/18mm wide. The base circles printed on the pcb are about 22mm so theres some jiggle room available but height is about maxed out in the stock caps. All the decent 400v/220uF caps I have looked at are not only wider but also taller.

I can find caps which are aeound the max 36/37mm tall but then they are like 25mm diameter which is too much. It's really tight on the other surrounding components.

I would be interested to hear what 220uF caps have been fitted to the 'upgraded' YZ charger cos I am struggling to find them!

Cut out a circular hole in the plastic casing and allow cap heads to protrude - would look cool even  + its a sign of quality when someone modded the China crap .
And while You are at it, install added colling for the charger if it has shown any signs of running hot - see my Tesla charger cooling mod thread for more info on how to do simple

[Planemo]

1 hour ago, Boogieman said:

Cut out a circular hole in the plastic casing and allow cap heads to protrude - would look cool even  + its a sign of quality when someone modded the China crap .

You may jest, but I would have no issue cutting holes in the (metal) case were it not for the fact that I will likely transport this charger, stuffed into a backpack with all manner of other crap so I could do without 2 very fragile components poking out lol.

I have hit a brick wall with getting some decent 220uF caps, all the ones I can find are either too long or have the 'snap fit' case design. I just want the plain old radial lead type. They must be available somewhere, I am amazed the usual suppliers dont have anything

 

[Planemo]

@fbhb, are you in a position to clarify that the resistor closest to the cap on the blown 150 board and the good 220 board are the same? It certainly looks like the colour coding is different, but I cant be sure.

If different, maybe the caps are a red herring... or at least only partly to blame..

[fbhb]

12 minutes ago, Planemo said:

@fbhb, are you in a position to clarify that the resistor closest to the cap on the blown 150 board and the good 220 board are the same? It certainly looks like the colour coding is different, but I cant be sure.

@Planemo I have attached both of my original blown board 150uf and working 220uf capacitor photos below for comparison. To my eyes they do actually look to be the same colour coding Only soldered to the board in the opposite orientation!

 

 

[Planemo]

Yeah I saw those pics from the 1st page, I couldnt be sure though. Confirm we are saying black/red/red/gold/brown? (Forgetting orientation)

[fbhb]

3 hours ago, Planemo said:

Confirm we are saying black/red/red/gold/brown? (Forgetting orientation)

I have also had my wife check the colours in the photos above to confirm that the above is correct.

 

EDIT:  @Planemo after remembering that those photos were of the Original 220uf and 150uf chargers and that the Latest one had some changes, I went back to photograph the New 220uf resistor for you. As mentioned in a previous post, you will also notice that resistor R4 is No longer used in the latest 220uf charger I have here!

 

These 2 photos should hopefully be sharp enough to distinguish the colour information you require.

Edited May 25, 2021 by fbhb

[Planemo]

Cheers, yeah I remember seeing this noted before. I will see what I can find out 

[Tawpie]

Uhm… R3 has basically NO solder on either end. While I hope it’s not important, I’m guessing you really want that in circuit for best results.

[fbhb]

10 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

hm… R3 has basically NO solder on either end. While I hope it’s not important, I’m guessing you really want that in circuit for best results.

I can assure you that it is just the lighting in the photo which makes it appear that the soldering is imperfect, but that is definitely not the case. I would be the first one to pull YZ-Power up for shoddy soldering if it was in fact true, but in a bid to get a clear close up of the resistor for @Planemo there were unavoidable shadows being cast on the highly reflective solder joints!

Edited May 25, 2021 by fbhb

[Tawpie]

I sure hope so, this looks like the copper pad with no solder in the via…

 

Edited November 4, 2022 by Tawpie
delete attachment

[.....]

50 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

I sure hope so, this looks like the copper pad with no solder in the via…

Yup, looks totally acceptable to me. Add more 'glue' and itll be just fine...

Edited May 25, 2021 by ShanesPlanet

[Boogieman]

On 5/24/2021 at 10:02 PM, fbhb said:

@Planemo I have attached both of my original blown board 150uf and working 220uf capacitor photos below for comparison. To my eyes they do actually look to be the same colour coding Only soldered to the board in the opposite orientation!

 

Direction of Resistors (R3 & R4) doesnt matter.

What does matter is that R3 above looks fried (certainly overheated) by the silver stripe
Also solder on R4 is poor from the looks of it from here (reflowing wouldnt hurt - check backside if its as bad).

[Boogieman]

1 hour ago, Tawpie said:

I sure hope so, this looks like the copper pad with no solder in the via…

Damn  not even solder in the hole - You can see the leg going all the way through.
Wonder if backside is just as bad - that one needs a reflow - no doubt. I made better solders as a 7 y.o. helping dad in the work shop LMAO

[fbhb]

A quick update to this topic to show a photo posted on Facebook by Jon Luke Freeman (based in the UK), after suffering the dreaded "E CHAr" failure, straight out of the box on the very first charge cycle of his Brand New Sherman!

After a couple of weeks waiting to be supplied a replacement motherboard, his replacement arrived showing a New version number of: L21-10, which supersedes what I believe was the previous version: L20-42. (L20-42 being the version that I myself have been supplied on 2 occasions now, most recently at the end of April)

 

Of course, it would be good to know if there have been any changes made by Veteran to this version to prevent charger/motherboard fails in future, but unfortunately this kind of information always seems to be shrouded in mystery!

Edited June 29, 2021 by fbhb

[Dom22]

So, just my two cents on the topic guys. 

I had the "E CHAr" error then got a different type of charger and it bricked the second veteren board I'd installed with "E CHAr" again.

What I've taken from this is the ***problem lies in the veteren sherman***, not the available chargers based on my experience and lack of similar issues on other wheels.

Edited July 9, 2021 by Dom22

[Shad0z]

Seems like I have these dreaded 150uF caps in BOTH of my leaperkim chargers

Now the last thing I'd want would be to kill my sherman with one of these, so how would I go about getting proper chargers? Can I contact veteran or something
 

[Boogieman]

On 6/27/2021 at 4:40 AM, fbhb said:

A quick update to this topic to show a photo posted on Facebook by Jon Luke Freeman (based in the UK), after suffering the dreaded "E CHAr" failure, straight out of the box on the very first charge cycle of his Brand New Sherman!

After a couple of weeks waiting to be supplied a replacement motherboard, his replacement arrived showing a New version number of: L21-10, which supersedes what I believe was the previous version: L20-42. (L20-42 being the version that I myself have been supplied on 2 occasions now, most recently at the end of April)

 

Of course, it would be good to know if there have been any changes made by Veteran to this version to prevent charger/motherboard fails in future, but unfortunately this kind of information always seems to be shrouded in mystery!

I also have the 20-42. Recieved my Sherman in July 2021 :-/

[Boogieman]

On 8/4/2021 at 4:22 PM, Shad0z said:

Seems like I have these dreaded 150uF caps in BOTH of my leaperkim chargers

Now the last thing I'd want would be to kill my sherman with one of these, so how would I go about getting proper chargers? Can I contact veteran or something
 

I got in my new charger 2021-07:

KM 105°C 400V 220uF so they should be good to go.

Have been charging with my:

JIA RUI JR-B900-100 though since day one. 8A is more than enough for me, as I normaly use the 6A or 2A if i want to give the wheel some love over night :-)

4pins on both charge ports on my Sherman.

4pins connected on JIA charger, spitter start has 4 ports connected but only 2pins per port on splitter end on each contact, so i dont use splitter as the conductor area and pin area is the same in the end with or without splitter.

Cable length is of course also less without splitter + one less point that can heat up (splitter to charger)

Edited August 19, 2021 by Boogieman

[Shad0z]

What charger do y'all recommend to buy for the sherman? I'd like to get something that isn't gonna mess it up obviously, and on top if that something good. Any recommendations for a good 100.8V charger? 

[Rawnei]

4 minutes ago, Shad0z said:

What charger do y'all recommend to buy for the sherman? I'd like to get something that isn't gonna mess it up obviously, and on top if that something good. Any recommendations for a good 100.8V charger? 

I like the Yzpower 5-7-9A charger, did the fan mod so it's very quiet too.

[Shad0z]

28 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

I like the Yzpower 5-7-9A charger, did the fan mod so it's very quiet too.

I assume that one's okay even though the fucky chargers talked about in this thread are from the same company right? 

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, Shad0z said:

I assume that one's okay even though the fucky chargers talked about in this thread are from the same company right? 

Well I know several people who own one and haven't heard about a single one having a problem.

I'm talking about this one specifically: https://www.pmbatterychargers.com/900W-1008V-5A-7A-9A-current-adjustable-digital-display-partial-charge-lithium-li-ion-battery-charger-for-100V-gotway-free-shipping-p2579895.html

[Boogieman]

I'm using this one, similar but lower amps. If i really want to go high amps i have the original charger for 2nd charge port, but i mostly charge at the two lower amps and for now allways to 100%

Yes its the same shitty manufacturer as veteran chargers. Hopefully better quality though based on price.

https://www.pmbatterychargers.com/900w-1008v-2a-6a-8a-current-adjustable-digital-display-partial-charge-lithium-li-ion-battery-charger-for-100v-gotway-free-shipping-p2874084.html

 

There is a theead on chargers and there is one that is AWESOME (can create your own profiles, US made) but its impossible to buy, sold out everywhere and fairly expensinve but i would get one if i saw one.

Edited August 29, 2021 by Boogieman