meepmeepmayer

No 4p wheel (like the 18L) has yet had battery-related cut out problems. No worries there. You also don't need to limit yourself to 40+%. Just ride until it beeps, and keep it non-extreme at lower battery levels.

This is a good tip. If your lower leg/calf muscles are tense, your easy and automatic balance goes out of the window. Tense any other muscles instead.

Yea, EUC riding isn't learned in one day. Practice is what works, as it does for you

"Bending knees" just means "don't totally lock your knees". It does not mean you should be riding (more or less) squatting. Just "stand" relaxed without 100% extending your legs. Literally like relaxed standing. So, if a surprise bump or pothole comes, your legs automatically feather instead of moving the shock through your entire body. These wobbles from tense leg muscles are completely normal. It will get better with practice and when you are more relaxed. Wobbles happen because the wheel is constantly being imbalanced (sideways) by you, the ground, the wind, everything. Usually you automatically dampen these disturbances away, as part of your sideways balance. Basically your body is moving in a straight line while the wheel constantly bucks a little under you, but you (with your legs) just automatically absorb it, cushion it, so it does not go out of hand, and the wheel just follows your body's straight line overall. With tense (leg) muscles however, your body will react slower and fail to do that. So the oscillations amplify into the notable wobble. The more you bend your legs, the less "flexible" your tense leg muscles are, the slower they react, so it makes complete sense that the wobble appears and gets worse like you say. EUC riding is the art of being relaxed and cool in the face of the wheel bucking under you and trying to do its own thing, rumbling over the uneven ground. The more practice you have, the better it will get. Extra factors like being tense or tired or frustrated also prevent being relaxed (I literally ride worse when I'm in a bad mood), so it's easier for wobbles to appear then, too. Ride, and enjoy (literally, so you are more relaxed), practice, and the problem will go away. It just takes time. That also is completely normal.

Broken chargers do happen occasionally. Ask your seller to send you a new one.

Beware of another tall person pitfall: you might bump your head on some bridge, tree branch, or likewise structure that looks tall enough to go under but isn't with the extra pedal height (and maybe the extra helmet height). A helmet helps here.

That's strange. I wonder what the reason is. Electrical interference? Somehow the seat puts (mechanical) stress on the board?

It's 3:2 (2*30 cells vs. 3*30 cells, assuming increments of 30 cells = 126V). Range highly depends on the speed. You can ride a Tesla (1000Wh) at 25kph and get 50km range, or ride it at 50kph and get under 20km range. If this new wheel has any top speed that people won't whine about, you can ride it down to zero in 15km if it has ~1000Wh. The only difference would be battery size and price, right? (And things that follow, like maybe top speed e.g. V10 vs. V10F) So what batteries/voltages would these 3 models use? They have to make sense. I think two models make the most sense: 2220Wh (like the S20) for the performance friends. 888Wh with the Samsung 40T cells for half the battery weight but still good performance, as a lighter commuter (that one really is a a good idea, @yoos is on to something here!). This would save roughly 4.2kg in battery weight, so the rest of the wheel must not be too unnecessarily heavy for this to work out. Both use 126V because that's what KS already has.

That's actually a great idea for a 126V wheel without a huuuuge battery but one that can still put out the amps. Though I hope 3p at least. 2p at 4000mAh is 888Wh, which really is too small. 3p would be 1332Wh which is still too small, but not as crazy small.

4p then would be 2072Wh. In my opinion that is too little difference (only 16 cells less) in weight, price, etc. to 126V, so not worth the effort.

Assumption: anything less than 4p isn't enough for a real performance wheel and will make people complain (see: S18). Then: the battery size of the S16 should be at least 1480Wh (if it is 84V like the S18) or 2220Wh (if it is 126V like the S20, same battery size). I think/hope 126V is more likely, so it might indeed be a mini-S20. Alternative 3p battery size is 1665Wh, or they do a 100V wheel with at least 1800Wh.

S16 speculations moved to their own thread:

Now we have one

Literally a "16 incher" (like the 16X tire size, not the 16S which is the actual 16 incher) in the new KS design philosophy (suspension and all) of the S18/S20, implied by the name "S16". Isn't it great what only 3 letters/digits can do? So far only rumor. KS tend to take their time, so I would not wait. At best I expect this:

The rumor is that the S16 comes next.

You can message now.

What does the readme.txt say? It will have explanations on what to do. This has nothing to do with Windows, you just have to do some settings before everything can work.

I interpret this Begode statement as "the motor as we build it today runs into some problem when turning even faster". Maybe the control electronics aren't cut out for it, or the Hall sensors are not "fast" enough, or whatever. I don't think the magnets or coils themselves are the problem. The difference to a "dumb" scooter motor is that a EUC motor must also be very precise at very low speeds. That probably complicates things a lot. There must be a reason the original Monster Pro and EX motors had a bigger diameter. That scooter motor is probably beginner level construction in comparison. Peashooter indeed. Anyways, the Master only comes in one version. Given that it's 134V and the other specs, it's going to have a lot of speed and torque.

Oh boy that sentence hits hard. So true. I would be extremely surprised if the next Veteran wheel is anything but a suspension 20-incher (what else would it be?). So there may be hope for you.

Kinetic energy is irrelevant as long as you don't change it, meaning you change your speed. Air resistance as well as other resistances (electrics and electronics, tire, etc.) are the main energy consumption of an electric unicycle, unless you were to always accelerate to max speed and the brake to zero and repeat until the battery is empty. In real life, your speed is more or less constant most of the time. Not much of your battery consumption has to do with changing your speed and therefore any kinetic energy (and you even get part of it back from the regenerative braking). Anyways, not sure what this has to do with the Master The argument that a speed wheel has better margins at low battery is a good one, though. I'm wondering if Begode always want to offer HT and HS options, or if the voltage increase is meant to allow for only one motor to both offer enough torque and speed. I think the 134V might be an attempt to have only one motor type. I also wouldn't be surprised if speed fanboys make them offer a HS version later.

Fixed

1 month delay. Possible price increase.

Don't melt your charge port or wiring!

Yes, 3330Wh would make this wheel a no-brainer!

That explains it, it is just one damping system from multiple parts! So what is the thing the Master uses? An air shock?