meepmeepmayer

25000km on an msuper V3 have also been achieved, for example. These had way weaker boards/smaller MOSFETs than we have now.

No old models have "started dieing" yet. Not even the cheap noname clones right from the beginning. There's a good chance your battery will be dead and the wheel be beat up and crooked way before any perceptible number of boards start failing.

No chance. You'll just fall, like suddenly everything is slippery ice. There are various videos of people getting dumped by hoverboards. These are very weak, so overpowering them is a good analogy for them simply stopping working. It happens so fast. Nobody, even if they expect it, can balance that. Or just anybody slipping on slick ground or a rolling log or something that suddenly gives way. I think the "slipping" analogy is a good mental model. Just try to stand on your wheel while it is off, and try to balance. You'll just slip, unless you are Superman. Now add yourself moving over uneven ground and not expecting it, with momentum and whatnot... no way! The good news (I can't say that often enough), the chance of this happening with a normal wheel is extremely small. It's one of these quirks that EUCs have that are really annoying and even frustrating, but in reality it is not as big as an issue as the intuition tells.

Yep there are two boards. One "power" board with the MOSFETs, and this "control" board (I guess? or just auxiliary stuff?) on top. I would like to add: I would trust a used board that has been confirmed working more than a new board that might (in theory) have a production issue. Pictures by EcoDrift:

Question about the suspension: The King Song S20 has this (very cool looking!) spring in addition to the air shock thingie (are there two shocks?). See picture: The Master (and EX20S) seem only to have the shock. How does the spring work? Does it work together with the shock, to create a more elaborate suspension behavior? Is it more of a fallback that kicks in when the air shock is compressed much? What does the spring do? Or is it just a different suspension design? I'm not familiar with what KS does with the S18 and S20. Trying to figure out how good the Master's suspension can be expected to be compared to the S20.

If I had to guess, I would say the variance between individual boards of a specific model might very well be similar (or even greater?) than the variance between different models, let alone manufacturers. Going by the fact that most board failures, if they happen, seem to happen right away (and should just have been caught by quality control). So I'm not sure comparing failure rates is meaningful, when all kinds of models and failure modes are thrown into one number. As far as "dies mid-ride after some time when you thought everything was good" rates, they are tiny for all manufacturers. That's the important bit I would say the V11 is in that good group. All wheels are, specific issues excluded.

@jmsjms For the (very tiny) chance that a sudden cut-out happens, you wear a (full face) helmet. This is just how it is with all electric unicycles. They are instable and actively balanced by electronics, so if the electronics fail for any reason, there can only be one result. If the tire locking up bothers you, I don't think that makes a difference to it being in "neutral". You still wouldn't keep rolling, you'd just fall the same. Note how the tire has a certain resistance when the wheel is off (due to the magnets causing back-EMF as soon as they are moved). That never goes away. And even if it did and you had a fully "neutral" freely rotating tire, you would still fall (but maybe on your back if you were braking at the time) like on super slippery ice. If you have the idea you could somehow keep rolling without active balancing, that wouldn't work. (The tire usually locking is due to the entire motor being shorted by an electronics failure connecting some things that shouldn't be connected. Not only is there the question which hardware design could prevent locking, as said above it would make no difference and introduce more potential points of failure, so nobody bothers with it.) Again, your V11 board does not get more likely to fail just because it is older and more used. If i worked till now, this is a sign of its quality. It's going to keep working. People would not be riding EUCs if sudden hardware failure crashes were anything but a one-in-a-zillion freak occurrence. It's a tiny tiny tiny chance you take, and maybe a mental hurdle one needs to overcome that this (theoretical) possibility exists. Be aware, wear a helmet, then forget about it and enjoy the ride The real danger is you making errors or some car hitting you etc. The one exception is known bad hardware, usually with known specific causes like misplaced hot glue (Nikola 84V first batch) or bad components (original V12 board that apparently isn't good enough). They get fixed fast, because nobody likes a wheel model or manufacturer that has any real chance of hardware failure crashes. And all others are as safe as an electric unicycle can be. I'm not aware of any V11 board issues. Even the old wheels with laughable weak board components (in comparison to today) don't show any signs of suddenly dieing after a certain time or mileage. They just keep working. Side note: Most (meaning virtually all) crashes you see are overleans, where people overpower their unicycles (usually) at top speed. These are not hardware failure cut-outs. Maybe it helps to be aware of this.

"More durable" and "bigger" are not the same. Could just be a different supplier with different specs, but the same size. If this is a real picture of the new board, the MOSFETs are the same size as before. Nobody here knows if it's a real picture.

Yes. There's only one failure mode here, with all electric unicycles. Board dies - you insta crash. (The tire will probably locked by the short then, not sure if this is what you mean.) But there is no reason to assume your board would suddenly die (at the end of the warranty period or at any other time). Boards tend to die right away from bad components (or unsuited ones, like presumably with the V12's old board) or they tend to live forever. Wheels suddenly dieing mid-ride "for no good reason" is extremely rare. Unless you have specific reports about V11 boards (or the boards of any other wheel you are riding) dieing mid-ride, there is nothing to worry about.

The RS Resolute used to be listed on the Begode home page. Now it is no longer there. Take that as you will, I think it means it is cancelled. http://www.begode.com/cpzs With the LFP EX2 cancelled, it would be Begode's only LFP battery wheel. Maybe the extra effort wasn't worth it now? Maybe the small battery size had too many complaints? So far, this is only speculation. Maybe this or another Begode LFP wheel will exist some day.

Here's the official Begode page for the EX20S. Quite a few pictures there: http://www.begode.com/productinfo/756873.html

By the way, here's Begode's official page for the Master: http://www.begode.com/productinfo/770685.html Only two CGI pics and the spec sheet there right now. They call it 大神 which Google translates as "Great God"

http://www.begode.com/ Information content varies by wheel, but they are actually surprisingly up-to-date as far as putting new wheels up. Master: http://www.begode.com/productinfo/770685.html EX20S (name change confirmed): http://www.begode.com/productinfo/756873.html Interestingly the RS Resolute is no longer there (it used to be), so I think it's dead. Would be the only wheel with LFP battery cells now that the LFP EX2 concept has been cancelled. So it would make sense if the effort wasn't worth it.

When you go from "Newest members" to "Members", you can send PMs.

Thx, I fixed it.

You can always argue that the inner rim of the hollow motor is the axle. For me, if it isn't an extra piece of metal that is pushed in/welded in and sticks out, it's not an axle (with all its associatd problems). That was the point of saying "no axle".

The firmware needs to match the wheel. Even having the board horizontal or vertical (for the exact same wheel model) requires different firmwares. So this won't work. The good news is: you don't need to replace the board. It has worked so far and there is no reason to believe it will stop working. Boards don't really age. Either they die right away/very soon due to some hardware weakness, or they tend to live longer than you will want to ride the wheel. The 84V Nikola board has never had any problems except the first batch with the hot glue disaster, which was a clearly delineated issue that was fixed. If you don't have one of these boards (after 7000 successful km it does not look like it), you are good.

Hollow motor, No axle! Motor cable is quite thick and could easily be made thicker! Very neat side assembly with the battery and what looks like lights(?). All looking very nice and clean. I just might have to buy one!

@PharmaCyclistYou're right, I'm afraid. Let's hope for the best. The Master price is lower than expected, maybe the EX20S price will be too.

The hairline cracks (don't ask me how I know) wouldn't be any problem either, but it's not nice to have them, of course. So gentle is the word of the day The wood idea is good.

How do you tune a wheel for the street? Harder suspension? Weights: EX20S 47 kg according to the picture Master 36kg (picture) S20 36kg (Google) X-Men 31kg (picture) V11 27kg (Google) S18 25kg (@yoos) All heavy

Not bad. Carefully bend it back (overbending may lead to some hairline cracks). I did that with a vise/vice. If you don't feel it during riding (as regular light bumps that come quicker with faster speed), it's not a problem at all. And if you feel it, that still would be the only problem. So it's no big deal, nothing catastrophic can come from this. But I would bend it back simply so it doesn't get worse. Not an uncommon problem: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aelectricunicycle.org+bent+rim

Not sure, but I think it was crappy. Some videos on this in the Hero thread, starting with this one: There must be a reason they are replacing (in effect) the Hero with the Master so soon. Can't just be because 1800Wh is ho-hum these days (at least for the absurd Hero price). Probably the rest wasn't too good, either.

I think the EX20S and the Master are real, and the rest (RS Resolute, Hero, other EX2 variants) are dead to unlikely. X-Men/XM I seriously don't know, but I think it will be real. Makes sense as Extreme Bull's second wheel. Where does the name "Raptor" come from for the V13? And is it "22 inch" (like the Monster) or "20" inch (like all the others, e.g. the Sherman)?

Yes, definitely! You're not the only one. Wishlist: 3600Wh (or in that area) (good) suspension no crazy high price no crazy heavy weight some resemblance of build quality I expect the EX20S to do the first two and fail at the latter three. Hoping for some Veteran wheel or the V13 coming to the rescue.