Tightening the Monster Axle Nuts

[techyiam]

Planemo, my apologies, you are quite right. I didn't know that you jumped in and changed the context. The O.P. has a MSP axle that he like to get tighten.

Edit: misunderstood what Planemo meant by hollow axle.

His Monster motor is just a conventional motor. Conventional motors all have hollow axles to facilitate the running of motor wires to come out from inside the hub. So the Monster has the same type of axle as OP's MSP. He was actually in agreement that impact guns can over tighten, and do damage. If I had known that he was referencing hollow axle motors as conventional motors, there would not be have been any need for me to provide an explanation in a follow up post.

Edited February 11, 2022 by techyiam

[EMA]

35 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I believe you are suggesting to use a pneumatic impact gun. Those thing can pound the nut at over 300 ft-lbs. The socket they are using are not impact grade, and has a big slot in it. Moreover, there are motor phase wires and hall sensor wires coming out of the side of the socket. Once the nut is lossen, how do you immediately stop the socket from turning further, so that the motor wires don't wrap around and around the socket and thus damaging them, this assuming there wasn't a slip, or socket cracking in the first place which would result in the same outcome.

Have you done this before? Are you sure it is safe?

 

all the time without issues, fixed an msx axle 3 days ago, these tools are super easy and will fix your problem in 1 sec, literally.

unless you have a crazy levarage, like marty's video it's impossible to tight an axle nut properly,  all the people i know have tried alone without succes.

and i fix all of the wheels with a 1 sec job...
 

[techyiam]

I see.

If you don't mind sharing, is there a tightening torque value that you use, or did you rely on your experience? If you are an experienced, skilled mechanical person, that can be a whole different story.

 For sure, in the right hands, it would be childs play to tighten that nut with an impact gun. I just worry in the wrong hand, it could end up with an outcome of a damaged motor.

Of course the other advantage with using an impact gun is that you don't have to apply much of a counter torque.

In Marty's video, he was primarily struggling with providing sufficient counter torque while he was applying tightening torque. If he use a large crescent wrench on the hanger, it would have helped immensely. As I said before, my preference is still to use two sockets and flex bars at the same time, especially if you have the tightening torque spec.. And if that is not enough leverage, you can increase leverage with pipes over the bars.

Mind you, if you have the skills, experience and thus confidence to use an impact gun to tighten that nut, it would be way quicker.

Thanks for sharing. It is a good tip to know for those who have experience wrenching and are not afraid to try.

This reminds me of the task of the tightening the harmonic balancer on a crankshaft.  I could press for a second or two on a pneumatic butterfly impact wrench, or bring out the torque wrench and somehow lock up the crankshaft.

Edited February 16, 2022 by techyiam

[Boris Lämpel]

I have the exactly same problem.

You have to look that the brackets are not worn out / rounded, because then the nut will loosen again.

I had the problem after going upstairs - too much torque for the axle-L-hanger-connection...

I used a common 24mm tool like that:

As counterpart I used a door frame. I let the L-hanger (=pedal hanger) touch the door frame and fixed the wheel with my body so it could not roll away.

[wstuart]

7 hours ago, techyiam said:

I see.

If you don't mind sharing, is there a tightening torque value that you use, or did you rely on your experience? If you are an experienced, skilled mechanical person, that can be a whole different story.

 For sure, in the right hands, it would be childs play to tighten that nut with an impact gun. I just worry in the wrong hand, it could end up with an outcome of a damaged motor.

Of course the other advantage with using an impact gun is that you don't have to apply much of a counter torque.

In Marty's video, he was primarily struggling with providing sufficient counter torque while he was applying tightening torque. If he use a large crescent wrench on the hanger, it would have helped immensely. As I said before, my preference is still to use two sockets and flex bars at the same time, especially if you have the tightening torque spec.. And if that is not enough leverage, you can increase leverage with pipes over the bars.

Mind you, if you have the skills, experience and thus confidence to use an impact gun to tighten that nut, it would be way quicker.

Thanks for sharing. It is a good tip to know for those who have experience wrenching and are not afraid to try.

This reminds me of task of the tightening the harmonic balancer on a crankshaft.  I could press for a second or two on a pneumatic butterfly impact wrench, or bring out the torque wrench and somehow lock up the crankshaft.

Ok I think I'm getting this.  Here are my remaining questions

So in Marty's video, his wheel is clamped down to a big heavy work bench.  Doesn't this provide sufficient counter torque?  

I don't have Marty's workbench setup so I like the idea tightening both nuts at the same time so they counter torque against each other...... that would work right??  I also agree with the idea of putting a long pipe on the socket wrench - my mechanic buddies call that a breaker bar.  

My 2 other questions

1.  Would threadlock be ok?  I'm thinking of using blue threadlock but red is stronger.  Anyone have experience with this?

2.  What about allightment of the pedal hangers.  When the nuts are loose, can't the pedal hangers swivel around the axel all willy nilly?  If so, when I go to tighten them, how will I ensure that both pedal hangers are aligned exactly straight down - or at least straight relative to each other.   Or am totally wrong about this?? - I sort of thought the purpose of Marty bolting it down to the work bench and doing one at a time was to maintain alignment. 

[RagingGrandpa]

@wstuart's question merged now...

Socket:
The only appropriate option that doesn't require removing motor cables is cutting your own 24mm socket. 
We're going to a very high torque- "sensor sockets" are too flimsy.

Driver:
A 1/2"-drive click-type torque wrench is the only ergonomic and repeatable method.
My torque recommendation: 110 ft-lb for the cable side; 120 ft-lb for the solid side; with rapping the wedges until torque is held consistently.
I've had local riders loosen nuts after installation to 120 ft-lb, but we're scared to go any higher. The Gotway 101 ft-lb spec is insufficient for trail riding & jumping.

Holding:
I recommend the big crescent:  https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/8050-tightening-the-monster-axle-nuts/?do=findComment&comment=356306 
Torque it with the motor and hangers installed in the EUC shell- it will help ensure relative alignment, and the crescent will bear the tightening torque, not the plastic. The flats in the axle shaft ensure the hanger alignment can't become very far off.

Threadlock: 
... will never be strong enough in this application, because of the partial threadform and irregular clamping surface.
Go for red, such as Loctite 263. It will still come loose eventually.

 

Edited February 11, 2022 by RagingGrandpa

[techyiam]

On 2/11/2022 at 9:12 AM, wstuart said:

Ok I think I'm getting this.  Here are my remaining questions

So in Marty's video, his wheel is clamped down to a big heavy work bench.  Doesn't this provide sufficient counter torque?  

I don't have Marty's workbench setup so I like the idea tightening both nuts at the same time so they counter torque against each other...... that would work right??  I also agree with the idea of putting a long pipe on the socket wrench - my mechanic buddies call that a breaker bar.  

My 2 other questions

1.  Would threadlock be ok?  I'm thinking of using blue threadlock but red is stronger.  Anyone have experience with this?

2.  What about allightment of the pedal hangers.  When the nuts are loose, can't the pedal hangers swivel around the axel all willy nilly?  If so, when I go to tighten them, how will I ensure that both pedal hangers are aligned exactly straight down - or at least straight relative to each other.   Or am totally wrong about this?? - I sort of thought the purpose of Marty bolting it down to the work bench and doing one at a time was to maintain alignment. 

Marty's work bench shown in the video is a foldable work bench, not unlike a Black and Decker's Workmate.

I believe many people would not categorize these foldable work benches as heavy duty work benches. For this particular application, the set up doesn't provide a means to directly counter the applied torque, nor is the work bench sturdy enough. That table top is relatively thin plywood or worse, and the clamp doesn't look strong enough for the amount of torque we are dealing with. With the motor still in the shell, there is only a small stub of the hanger exposed, thus making it more difficult to apply a counter torque. 

Oh yes, you are quite right, they are also called breaker bars. But if you have access to a 1/2" drive torque wrench, then you would also know how much torque you are applying.

1. The consensus in this combined thread appears to indicate the use of the red thread locking compound. 

2. The hanger alignment question is actually a little more involved, and thus requires a short initial explanation. 

The gist of it is that the 24 mm axle nut has a serated seat that comes in contact with two matching anti-rotational wedges or inserts, which then makes contact with the back wall of the hollow part of the hanger. This top, hollow portion of the hanger is specifically design to allow a wedging action that compresses the two matching shims so that it is forced to expand between the axle and the side walls of the hanger, consequently locking the hanger to the axle rotationally. 

With the wheel in place in the shell, the hangers are sufficiently aligned. As suggested in the previous thread, tightening the axle nut with the motor already inside the shell will provide the required alignment. And to use a large crescent wrench on the exposed portion of the hanger to counter the applied torque in order to minimize the counter-torque stress on the plastic shell. This occurs because the serated seat of the axle nut will bite into the shims which in turn will rotate the hanger, and with the addition of friction, causes the hanger to rotate along with the axle nut.

However, the exposed hanger stub's geometry doesn't lend itself to provide enough contact surface area for the crescent wrench to act on, nor provide an abundance of leverage for very high tightening torque values. But more importantly, by holding onto the hanger, you are subjecting the anti-rotational shims to extremely high stress due to it trying to oppose rotation, since to tighten the nut, ultimately the axle itself need to be held. By holding onto the hanger, you are making the shims take all the load. The very thing you want to avoid. Fortunately, we can take advantage of the fact that when the axle nut is sufficiently tightened, the hanger will be locked to the axle due to the action of the anti-rotational shims. Now we can put down the crescent wrench and applied greater torque on both axle nuts on the two sides at the same time, with much less rotational stress on the shims since the tightening torque on the axle nuts on each side cancels each other, so the hangers don't need to be held. Other secondary benefits include less worry of marring the surface of or possibly deforming the hanger.

Note that the slotted deep socket on the wired side will still be the weak link. It can break. So you still need to be mindful of how much torque you apply.

Moreover, about the anti-rotational shims; they are designed to wear in order to prolong the life of the axle itself. There is a practical limit as to how many times you can retighten the axle nuts before you have to replace them.

I still think EMA is on to something. By using an impact wrench, you can greatly reduce the stress on the shims during the tightening process, and thus preserve the shims better. But there is a huge downside if something goes wrong. Perhaps it is something worth pondering for some.

Edited February 16, 2022 by techyiam

[RagingGrandpa]

5 hours ago, techyiam said:

the exposed hanger stub's geometry doesn't lend itself to provide enough contact surface area for the crescent wrench to act on, nor provide an abundance of leverage for very high tightening torque values

I think you missed how yuge of a wrench this is.
Jaws are 1" thick. It works great and does not leave tool marks. (But it's so large, you won't find many other uses for it, sadly)

 

 

5 hours ago, techyiam said:

by holding onto the hanger, you are subjecting the anti-rotational shims to extremely high rotational stress
The very thing you want to avoid.

The nut must turn, and it bears on the shims. The shims must not turn, by design.

Why make life complicated just to minimize it? Shims don't break...

 

Edited February 12, 2022 by RagingGrandpa

[wstuart]

14 hours ago, techyiam said:

Marty's work bench shown in the video is a foldable work bench, not unlike a Black and Decker's Workmate.

I believe many people would not categorize these foldable work benches as heavy duty work benches. For this particular application, the set up doesn't provide a means to directly counter the applied torque, nor is the work bench sturdy enough. That table top is relatively thin plywood or worse, and the clamp doesn't look strong enough for the amount of torque we are dealing with. With the motor still in the shell, there is only a small stub of the hanger exposed, thus making it more difficult to apply a counter torque. 

Oh yes, you are quite right, they are also called breaker bars. But if you have access to a 1/2" drive torque wrench, then you would also know how much torque you are applying.

1. The consensus in this combined thread appears to indicate the use of the red thread locking compound. 

2. The hanger alignment question is actually a little more involved, and thus requires a short initial explanation. 

The gist of it is that the 24 mm axle nut has a serated seat that comes in contact with two matching anti-rotational wedges or inserts, which then makes contact with the back wall of the hollow part of the hanger. This top, hollow portion of the hanger is specifically design to allow a wedging action that compresses the two matching shims so that it is forced to expand between the axle and the side walls of the hanger, consequently locking the hanger to the axle rotationally. 

With the hangers in place in the shell, the hangers are sufficiently aligned. As suggested in the previous thread, tightening the axle nut with the motor already inside the shell will provide the required alignment. And to use a large crescent wrench on the exposed portion of the hanger in order to counter the applied torque in order to minimize the counter-torque stress on the plastic shell. This occurs because the serated seat of the axle nut will bite into the shims which in turn will rotate the hanger, and with the addition of friction, causes the hanger to rotate along with the axle nut.

However, the exposed hanger stub's geometry doesn't lend itself to provide enough contact surface area for the crescent wrench to act on, nor provide an abundance of leverage for very high tightening torque values. But more importantly, by holding onto the hanger, you are subjecting the anti-rotational shims to extremely high rotational stress, since to tighten the nut, ultimately the axle itself need to be held. By holding onto the hanger, you are making the shims take all the load. The very thing you want to avoid. Fortunately, we can take advantage of the fact that when the axle nut is sufficiently tightened, the hanger will be locked to the axle due to the action of the anti-rotational shims. Now we can put down the crescent wrench and applied greater torque on both axle nuts on the two sides at the same time, with much less rotational stress on the shims since the tightening torque on the axle nuts on each side cancels each other, so the hangers don't need to be held. Other secondary benefits include less worry of marring the surface of or possibly deforming the hanger.

Note that the slotted deep socket on the wired side will still be the weak link. It can break. So you still need to be mindful of how much torque you apply.

Moreover, about the anti-rotational shims; they are designed to wear in order to prolong the life of the axle itself. There is a practical limit as to how many times you can retighten the axle nuts before you have to replace them.

I still think EMA is on to something. By using an impact wrench, you can greatly reduce the rotational stress on the shims during the tightening process, and thus preserve the shims better. But there is a huge downside if something goes wrong. Perhaps it is something worth pondering for some.

Thankyou so much this helps!!

So I just purchased a 24inch crescent wrench and a 25 inch breaker bar from harbor freight ($50.) I think I might try to get a used mechanical torque wrench (old used snap on https://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-Tools-TE250-Torq-Meter-Wrench-Inch-Pounds-0-to-250-Torqometer-1-2-/325015878844?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

I really want to try to get the torque value correct. When re tightening.  I think I remeber reading 100ftlbs being the desired value.  Does this sound right?

[Rehab1]

The custom 24mm socket used by both @Hsiangand @Marty Backewe’re fabricated in my shop. I have not heard of any breakage throughout the torque process. Just be sure the edges are polished to remove any hairline imperfections.

 

[wstuart]

8 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

The custom 24mm socket used by both @Hsiangand @Marty Backewe’re fabricated in my shop. I have not heard of any breakage throughout the torque process. Just be sure the edges are polished to remove any hairline imperfections.

 

Oh man I need one of those.  I'm so glad you saw my post!!!  Could I buy one of those from you?  I'm about to go get a socket and an angle grinder and do a total hack job.  I would much rather just purchase one of yours!

Edited February 13, 2022 by wstuart

[EMA]

that's what i use, do the job in the easiest way
 

 

[wstuart]

Wait nevermind.   I just did a total hack job on my 24mm socket with my Dremel.  I then cranked down on it with my 2ft breaker bar and some red threadlock. 

 

 

 

[techyiam]

13 hours ago, EMA said:

that's what i use, do the job in the easiest way
 

 

Thank you for sharing. 

I was wondering how you managed to use the impact gun approach successfully. 

Your socket is different from everybody else's, and you use a 350 n-m (257 ft-lb) battery powered impact gun with fine speed control. 

The non-deep, shallow slot socket is brilliant.

It really make sense to use the impact gun approach to repair lossen Gotway's axle nuts, not only because it is way easier to do, and effective, but you would end up with a more durable repair.

Kudos to you

Edited February 13, 2022 by techyiam

[techyiam]

On 2/12/2022 at 7:46 PM, Rehab1 said:

... Just be sure the edges are polished to remove any hairline imperfections.

Appreciate your sharing of a subtle, but important point. Micro-cracks on surfaces can increase the likelihood of crack initiation in a high tensile stress field. In fact, any stress risers due to geometries such as sharp outside corners, small radii in inside corners are no no's.

Edited February 14, 2022 by techyiam

[wstuart]

17 hours ago, wstuart said:

 

Oh man I need one of those.  I'm so glad you saw my post!!!  Could I buy one of those from you?  I'm about to go get a socket and an angle grinder and do a total hack job.  I would much rather just purchase one of yours!

 

3 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Appreciate your sharing of a subtle, but important point. Micro-cracks on surfaves can increase the likelihood of crack initiation in a high tensile stress field. In fact, any stress risers due to geometries such as sharp outside corners, small radii in inside corners are no no's.

Oh I'm sure there were some stress risers in the high tensile stress field of the hack job socket I made this morning with my Dremel..... I ended up just going for it....

When I opened the wheel up the bolt was totally loose - I could spin it with my fingers.

I cleaned the axel and bolt, put on some red threadlock and  squeezed together as hard as I could with my 2 foot breaker bar and 2 ft crescent wrench.   I'm not sure what the torque value was..... but it's riding amazing now and the slop is 100% gone!  We'll see how long it lasts....

 

 

[techyiam]

4 hours ago, wstuart said:

 

Oh I'm sure there were some stress risers in the high tensile stress field of the hack job socket I made this morning with my Dremel..... I ended up just going for it....

When I opened the wheel up the bolt was totally loose - I could spin it with my fingers.

I cleaned the axel and bolt, put on some red threadlock and  squeezed together as hard as I could with my 2 foot breaker bar and 2 ft crescent wrench.   I'm not sure what the torque value was..... but it's riding amazing now and the slop is 100% gone!  We'll see how long it lasts....

 

 

 

That's fantastic. Now you can have a suitably powerful euc to continue your euc journey without having to feel pressed to get a stop-gap wheel.

Good choice on the lengths of your selected tools to get control on the leverage. You must feel good knowing you managed to eliminate all the slop from a Gotway wheel with the dreaded axle nut loosening issue. 

Out of concern, sorry to rain on your parade just a bit. Just in case you are not aware, fractured sockets are a thing. Keep in mind that when the socket fails, it can be catastrophic in nature, letting go completely with all your might applied.

[wstuart]

1 hour ago, techyiam said:

That's fantastic. Now you can have a suitably powerful euc to continue your euc journey without having to feel pressed to get a stop-gap wheel.

Good choice on the lengths of your selected tools to get control on the leverage. You must feel good knowing you managed to eliminate all the slop from a Gotway wheel with the dreaded axle nut loosening issue. 

Out of concern, sorry to rain on your parade just a bit. Just in case you are not aware, fractured sockets are a thing. Keep in mind that when the socket fails, it can be catastrophic in nature, letting go completely with all your might applied.

Thanks man.  So in 2 weeks I've gone from a v8f to an 18L to an MSP HT.    Wow each wheel is amazing.  I dont know if I consider the 18L as a stop gap wheel - time will tell.  I must admit though, that each wheel has a purpose.  My wife and I go bike riding by the bay on a crowded boardwalk (totally flat and never more than 8mph).   Yesterday when we did this I used my V8F instead of my beachcruidwr bike.  The v8f was brilliant for this.

  For commuting I'll probably use either the 18L or MSP - I'll have to see how rough the road is along the 8 mile commute, and how much the hills kill my 18L battery. 

The MSP is absolutely brilliant for offroad! - I tried a little bit of it today and OMG is it fun.  These wheels are alot like my 3 bikes - my mountainbike, my beach cruiser and my road bike. Each is perfect for its purpose.

BTW I have a v10f coming soon!!  I will probably replace my v8f with it as the V8F doesn't do so well with my 230lbs on hills.  I will only do this though if the v10f is as nimble and adept at the low-speed beach cruising with the wife

 

As for the socket - I knew I was taking a risk, but the 2 foot long levers really allowed me to limit modulate the pressure I was applying to the tool - I didn't really have to pull with all my might.  For this reason I felt even if there were a failure it might not be so catastrophic - at least from an injury standpoint.  

If it comes loose again - I will probably get another socket and do a better job grinding before I repair again.

Edited February 14, 2022 by wstuart

[techyiam]

Oops, I now recall that you did mentioned about having already purchased an 18L. Glad that you like the 18L that much.

They are not kidding when members warn newbies that it is very hard not to start buying more and more euc's. Sometimes I think the frequent launches of new euc's with serious issues may not be all bad, because of this, it has made me now wanting to wait and wait for new wheels to get the serious issues fixed before I will pull the trigger. And this can take a long time.

Regarding the socket, it sounds like you are in good hands then.

 

[Planemo]

5 hours ago, wstuart said:

 the 2 foot long levers really allowed me to limit modulate the pressure I was applying to the tool

And this is exactly why I never use power tools anywhere near my wheels.

I like to 'feel' whats going on. Its also why I wince when I see people using electric drills to remove/refit the tiny panel screws on Gotways etc. I'm never in that much of a rush with any wheel work that I need power assistance, not to mention most threads/fasteners on euc's will cross thread/strip as soon as look at them. I guess I'm just old skool 

[Rehab1]

On 2/13/2022 at 4:00 PM, wstuart said:

Oh I'm sure there were some stress risers in the high tensile stress field of the hack job socket I made this morning with my Dremel..... I ended up just going for it....

Sorry for the late reply. You did it! Congrats! 

 

[techyiam]

On 2/12/2022 at 10:37 AM, RagingGrandpa said:

I think you missed how yuge of a wrench this is.
Jaws are 1" thick. It works great and does not leave tool marks. (But it's so large, you won't find many other uses for it, sadly)

 The nut must turn, and it bears on the shims. The shims must not turn, by design.

Why make life complicated just to minimize it? Shims don't break...

 

If you can bear with me, I need to give a little background before I can answer your questions. 

There is a significant difference between the case where a wheel is being torqued down with the car up on a hoist, with only the axle providing the counter-torque, and another case where the wheel is being torqued down with the wheel firmly planted on the ground. In the latter case, without any flex, all the tightening torque is essentially  transferred to the nut. Whereas, in the former case, with flex, although the torque wrench says the tightening torque has been applied, the nut could still be under torqued.

The anti-rotating shims is a metal that is specially selected to deform in such a way that when the axle nut is tightened, it will expand outward with one end toward one side of the hanger, and the other end towards the machined flat of the axle. Consequently, the shim material cannot be arbitrarily harden.

When the axle nut is being tightened, the axle needs to be held. This can achieved by putting a crescent wrench on the hanger which is locked to the axle via the shims. One end of the shim makes contact with the machinced flat on the axle. There are two edges on the flat that runs in parallel with the axle. These edges digs into the shims, especially when the axle is rotated, and thus create extremely high stresses. Wihen very high tightening torque is applied, I suspect the portion of the shim that makes contact with the edges of the flat on the axle can go "plastic".

As with interference fit, very small dimensional changes can result in very large changes in forces. Once the shim had gone plastic, the shim can no longer support as much force, thus loses its effectiveness to prevent the hanger from being rigidly locked to the axle. As a result, there is more flex as some part of the shim goes plastic. Consequently, less tightening torque is actually transferred to the axle nut.

Because of this limitation, 18" or larger crescent wrench will be sufficient.

I also suspect Gotway had chosen the ~100 ft-lb tightening torque because the hanger would be sufficiently locked to the axle, if shims with no wear are used. But for axles that had lossen, implying that the shims could have some wear on it, more tightening torque would be required because the shim needs to expand more to compensate dimensionally for the material that had been worn off. But that would mean more counter  torque torque is required in order to hold the axle. Holding the hanger with a crescent wrench now may not provide this anymore because this will in turn just causes the shim to go plastic.

Therefore, in order to compensate for shims that have wear on them, it may be necessary to tighten both axle simultaneously, using much higher tightening torque. 

For even more durable results, the impact gun approach may be used, if one knows how.

Edited February 16, 2022 by techyiam

[RagingGrandpa]

Slightly OT, but since we're buried on page 6...

3 hours ago, techyiam said:

There is a significant difference between the case where a wheel is being torqued down with the car up on a hoist, with only the axle providing the counter-torque, and another case where the wheel is being torqued down with the wheel firmly planted on the ground.

As an automotive engineer, you got my attention with that analogy... do you have any literature or direct experience that provides evidence of that? (Inconsistent clamping force when a standard torque is applied to a tapered wheel nut and supported by the hub and axle, vs the tire?) Thx

 

Edited February 16, 2022 by RagingGrandpa

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, RagingGrandpa said:

As an automotive engineer, you got my attention with that analogy... do you have any literature or direct experience that provides evidence of that? (Inconsistent clamping force when a standard torque is applied to a tapered wheel nut and supported by the hub and axle, vs the tire?) Thx

 

Have you had personal experience before performing the above;, and then then lowering the car down and re-torque? Either way no worries.

[RagingGrandpa]

Well, not actually... with 2WD vehicles and nothing to clamp the brakes, we can't put final torque on the front wheel using hand tools... and impact guns are imprecise and risky... so my habit is "snug in the air first, torque on the ground later"

 

(For EUC axles, the technique of multiple passes at 110ft-lb, with tapping/rapping the wedges between passes, has proven practical and effective throughout multiple installations, for me.)