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Ninebot E+ Control Board Burnout


Jonathan Tolhurst

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Yet another Ninebot E+ board burnout (I think I'm on 5 or 6), luckily I have a spare control board which I grabbed from an old wheel whose rim fractured :) 

Looking at the photos below, can anyone explain what parts may have burnt out here and why? I seem to remember a previous burnout affected the same area on the board. The MOSFETS appear to have been unaffected - there was no lock up of the wheel movement. Interestingly, this control board died at very low speed and when not doing tricks - maybe some solder came loose and caused a short? I'm pretty please how long this board actually lasted - it's survived better than my shins :facepalm:

Ninebot_ControlBoard_Burnout_Detail.thumb.jpg.682c44dcb3522ffaf94c9ac1643baa4a.jpg

 

Ninebot_ControlBoard_Burnout.thumb.jpg.60ff9dd646d2c34edbd6c37ba2e743ea.jpg

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Looks like a couple of SMD-power resistors burned next to the ground-wire from the battery, might be for measuring the total current through the motor (the thick trace appears to come from behind the mosfets). If the board's otherwise OK, those should be pretty easy to replace. Not sure why they've burned though, it takes quite a lot of heat/current to destroy them like that, bad contact raising the resistance?

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2 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Aren't E+ boards kind of rare nowadays? What's your plan if you can no longer get a new one?

Speedyfeet had them in stock until recently and should be getting a resupply in a couple of months (assuming they are still available). I do wonder how much the control boards cost Ninebot to manufacture - I'm pretty sure they (and the supplier) are making a pretty tidy profit selling them at £150 a time, although I expect that they replace a large number under warranty.

Not sure what I'd do when I'm no longer able to maintain my wheel (I'm continuously replacing parts), I have invested lots of time practising to become "at one" with my wheel, I'll have to weigh up my options :). One of the biggest selling points about the E+ was that it was really well build, parts were readily available and you could maintain it yourself.

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1 hour ago, Jonathan Tolhurst said:

Speedyfeet had them in stock until recently and should be getting a resupply in a couple of months (assuming they are still available). I do wonder how much the control boards cost Ninebot to manufacture - I'm pretty sure they (and the supplier) are making a pretty tidy profit selling them at £150 a time, although I expect that they replace a large number under warranty.

They seem pretty low cost... Lizardmech pointed out that they've even skipped proper gate-driver chips and built them from discrete components instead. Saves maybe a buck or two per board? ;) Apparently no current sensors either, only shunt-resistors, the chips next to them might be something like op-amps for measuring the voltage drop over the resistors? Bluetooth-chip is on a breakout (the kind you get for $2 from Aliexpress), but that seems to be the case with pretty much all wheels... the gyro/accelerometer is on a breakout too, I bought some MPU-6050 -breakouts for maybe 2-3€/piece, but those are not the same as the NB1-board.

But, in general, they've seemed to hold pretty good, many people have got thousands of kilometers on their NB1's...

 

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13 hours ago, Jonathan Tolhurst said:

Speedyfeet had them in stock until recently and should be getting a resupply in a couple of months (assuming they are still available.

Same time frame Ian told me last week.  In the US the sale of Ninebot boards to the general public has ended. I had to send in my grandson's NB1E+ last week to Ninebot US for repair. I wanted to purchase just a board from the company but No Can Do. Their site has this policy posted about why they will not sell directly to customers:

HIR6x80.png

The Main-Board (Control-Board) is the brains behind the brawn

The main-board, or as some call it the 'control-board' is the “brains" behind the brawn of your Ninebot One.  If it’s not functioning properly that means you're not happy . . . or riding!

Due to warranty and safety concerns, we can not ship Main-Boards, or Control-Boards directly to customers.  This item must be installed by a certified Ninebot repair service center.

 

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15 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Maybe consider going to InMotion?  @Hirsute seems to find them pretty suitable.  I thought he was going to post a video of the V8 that he won in the great EUC contest, but that never materialized.  :(

@Jonathan Tolhurst has developed such an amazing sensory proprioceptive feedback with his NB1 that changing wheels would have a major impact on his skill level. An example is the penny spin and the exact timing it takes to perfect this trick. Another wheel would have different characteristics. He would have a huge time investment reteaching his body to learn all of the new idiosyncrasies along with the possible damage to a new wheel. I am sure he has damaged numerous NB1s throughout his years of training.

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Yeah I get that, but judging by his talent I'm sure he would be able to adapt?  I guess I'm just thinking if the Ninebot is eventually going the way of the Dodo bird what options can he consider looking at?  KS16S is pretty heavy.  I don't know if he wants to go to a KS14 sized wheel, but that might be an option as long as the new axles are stronger.  It looks like Hirsute started on the KS14 and moved to InMotion.  V8 might be too heavy.  ACM is pretty wide and heavy.  V5F+ might still be the way to go.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 15/07/2017 at 10:23 PM, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Maybe consider going to InMotion?  @Hirsute seems to find them pretty suitable.  I thought he was going to post a video of the V8 that he won in the great EUC contest, but that never materialized.  :(

Really sorry about that. I thought I would make a video with the V8, but I never did it. I was very tired and disapointed by some critics that i received after the contest, and so i felt the need to moved away for a time from the EUC community and the forums. Otherwise my wounded arm is healed, and I started the circus tour again (in addition to my work for New Walkings...).

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On 16/07/2017 at 2:15 PM, Rehab1 said:

@Jonathan Tolhurst has developed such an amazing sensory proprioceptive feedback with his NB1 that changing wheels would have a major impact on his skill level. An example is the penny spin and the exact timing it takes to perfect this trick. Another wheel would have different characteristics. He would have a huge time investment reteaching his body to learn all of the new idiosyncrasies along with the possible damage to a new wheel. I am sure he has damaged numerous NB1s throughout his years of training.

I agree with you @Rehab1. And i am not sure that the penny spin is possible at all with an other wheel. I would like to see it on other brands, but it seem's that it is a NB1 tricks! 

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17 hours ago, Hirsute said:

I was very tired and disapointed by some critics that i received after the contest

WOW, I am very sorry to hear that. I really don't see any point why one could criticise you for having made this awesome vid, so many people enjoyed! It was pure jealousy wasn't it?

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17 hours ago, Hirsute said:

Really sorry about that. I thought I would make a video with the V8, but I never did it. I was very tired and disapointed by some critics that i received after the contest, and so i felt the need to moved away for a time from the EUC community and the forums. Otherwise my wounded arm is healed, and I started the circus tour again (in addition to my work for New Walkings...).

Welcome back buddy! Your presence is always welcome! 

We both took criticism throughout the contest last year but the judgments cast your way were so unfounded I had zero enthusiasm to sponsor another event this year. For those members that missed your outstanding performance here is an encore!

 

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  • 10 months later...

My board did this same thing about two weeks ago when my friend wiped out on it. I had a board replaced before under warranty, but cannot justify shipping and repair costs (~$280) to repair this old wheel with the new ones on the market. I just ended up buying a used one from @Joker10 so I will have the E+ and S1 until the Z10 is availiable. 

If anyone knows the rating on those resisters, I can solder them on and see if that was the only issue. I do have some wheel lockup, so do I have bad mosfets too?

 

21D117EE-755E-4E38-BAF4-F85CB575FDDD.jpeg

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I see a few Ninebot One C+ board available for $100. Would it be possible to pick one of those up and use that russian re-flashing method to change it to an E+ board without much drama? 

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1 hour ago, Daniel Burkemper said:

If anyone knows the rating on those resisters, I can solder them on and see if that was the only issue.

ninebot.JPG.54cd78b0e415017bbe039d5ab39f

Trying to see from that picture (right click -> "Open image in new tab" to see it in full size with Chrome, probably something similar for other browsers), they're either 1 or 7 milliohm resistors, 1 would make more sense, but not sure... Could be 2512's (imperial), as they need to withstand high power dissipation?

2000px-smt_sizes_based_on_original_by_zu

 

 

Quote

I do have some wheel lockup, so do I have bad mosfets too?

Possibly, the wheel should rotate freely. If you can disconnect the motor phase wires, and the motor then turns freely, certainly something's shorting the motor phases, usually it's one or more dead mosfets.

 

 

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a google search for r007 (the two missing off mine) came back as a strip or current resistor. 7mill ohms.  Think these are the for sale here:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Susumu/KRL6432E-M-R007-F-T1?qs=FG09h9tFCuA5fgBuyupdEw%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwg_fZBRAoEiwAppvp-XCHACRb8I68BfsrZCQqlPy_OV0ZjsJ1nKpklIhy9lh-1yTJlO4ZQRoCSeQQAvD_BwE

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