Rawnei Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 52 minutes ago, daniel1234 said: my 50e have range of around 70-80. I am sure 50s can squeze 90 km if you ride at this slow pace. I cannot help myself on Lynx, and I am pushing it to 3500w+ at a majority of starts/takeoff, so I rarely see that range myself... I don't like how the algorithm breaks, I am riding 100% hard all the time, just to get stopping force. I would love to have some more options to configure the ride feel. Just pedal hardness is not enough. For me, it is weird that there are almost no advancements in the software part of the new wheels. Not sure why - they could steal ideas from VESC community. 50E and 50S have the same capacity. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daniel1234 Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 1 hour ago, Rawnei said: 50E and 50S have the same capacity. Only at 1c - not at high load, over 1C I am losing some power on internal resistance. The difference is not huge on Lynx but noticeable -> but in principle, capacity is always dependent on the load in time(rate) you are discharging to. That's why a capacity test is done on multiple loads 1c / 2c ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 32 minutes ago, daniel1234 said: Only at 1c - not at high load, over 1C I am losing some power on internal resistance. The difference is not huge on Lynx but noticeable -> but in principle, capacity is always dependent on the load in time(rate) you are discharging to. That's why a capacity test is done on multiple loads 1c / 2c ... But you wrote "at slow pace"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peytole Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 (edited) Je suis sur le point de commander le chargeur et l'amplificateur de charge PIDZOOM. Quelqu'un a testé ? Edited April 30 by peytole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberwolf Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Can anyone confirm the amount of suspension fluid the Lynx should have? I would have thought it would be 150ml like the ShermS, but it looks to have about 140ml from the factory - is ~140ml the correct amount, or should it be 150ml? (i.e. - it may have been a little light from the factory) Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peytole Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 there is not really a compulsory level. I can fill between 120 and 160ml approximately. If you add more oil, it will become very hard at the end of the race and vice versa. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crystal7_Magic Posted April 30 Share Posted April 30 Hi Question about stock charger behavior. Nearly the end of charge, stock charger alternante Green and Red Light which is normal. However after this process, if we let the charger connected during several hours here are 2 behaviors I have seen on 2 lynx : Case 1: Light finally keep a fix Green light, lynx is kept turned on, and in the app we still get the "charging" statuts. Case 2: green Light disappears, and lynx is turned off What should normaly do the stock charger ? Keep the charger turn on with the green fix Light, or should it turn off automatically at a moment ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peytole Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 The lights alternate between red and green, this is the charging slowdown phase. Then, the light is green, low current continues to flow, this is the balancing phase. Some people say the charger shuts off after a while, but I've never waited long enough. I avoid charging it to 100% systematically, only every 10 to 20 charges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crystal7_Magic Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 6 hours ago, peytole said: The lights alternate between red and green, this is the charging slowdown phase. Then, the light is green, low current continues to flow, this is the balancing phase. Some people say the charger shuts off after a while, but I've never waited long enough. I avoid charging it to 100% systematically, only every 10 to 20 charges. In my case, I have tried to let it during all the night and at the morning the Light was still on, and by checking the bms information, min and max voltage on battery celle level did not change at All between moment where fix green Light has begun and 10 hours after. That is why I was asking how it is possible that some charger are able to shutdown 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 9 hours ago, Cyberwolf said: Can anyone confirm the amount of suspension fluid the Lynx should have? I would have thought it would be 150ml like the ShermS, but it looks to have about 140ml from the factory - is ~140ml the correct amount, or should it be 150ml? (i.e. - it may have been a little light from the factory) Thanks in advance! 150ml is the correct amount, possibly there was some more tiny drops in there that didn't come out? It has some nooks and crevices that can trap some oil while pouring it out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 8 hours ago, Crystal7_Magic said: Hi Question about stock charger behavior. Nearly the end of charge, stock charger alternante Green and Red Light which is normal. However after this process, if we let the charger connected during several hours here are 2 behaviors I have seen on 2 lynx : Case 1: Light finally keep a fix Green light, lynx is kept turned on, and in the app we still get the "charging" statuts. Case 2: green Light disappears, and lynx is turned off What should normaly do the stock charger ? Keep the charger turn on with the green fix Light, or should it turn off automatically at a moment ? Since I tuned mine down it doesn't shut down but if I check BMS it doesn't really do anything either after many hours, possibly that is something they will allow us to tune in the upcoming firmware but I don't see it as a big thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crystal7_Magic Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 59 minutes ago, Rawnei said: Since I tuned mine down it doesn't shut down but if I check BMS it doesn't really do anything either after many hours, possibly that is something they will allow us to tune in the upcoming firmware but I don't see it as a big thing. Interesting. Si in your case with stock voltage set on your charger, charger was able to turn off after a certain amount of time ? If it does not turn off after lowering the voltage on the charger, it signifies that the bms is the one sending the signal about end of balancing/charging, and is able to turn of the charger ? I also have lowered the voltage from 152v to 151.2v,but even with the stock 152v set on mine the charger never turn off. What was your stock voltage set on the charger ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 23 minutes ago, Crystal7_Magic said: Interesting. Si in your case with stock voltage set on your charger, charger was able to turn off after a certain amount of time ? If it does not turn off after lowering the voltage on the charger, it signifies that the bms is the one sending the signal about end of balancing/charging, and is able to turn of the charger ? I also have lowered the voltage from 152v to 151.2v,but even with the stock 152v set on mine the charger never turn off. What was your stock voltage set on the charger ? Mine was overtuned from factory, something like 151.9, I don't remember if it shut down but I "think" it did, then I tuned it down to 151.2 and it didn't shut down, now I have it on 150V and it doesn't shut down, so possibly there is a voltage threshold for when it shuts down (if at all?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolzi Posted May 1 Share Posted May 1 Lynx did something very weird today. After charging it would not turn on. Pushing the power button only kept the wheel on while pushing, like sleep mode that I did not enable. Then somehow it started balancing when I tried pushing it upright, without connecting the charger. Now the power button ceased to work altogether. I Could not turn the wheel off, like reverse transport mode. Connecting and disconnecting the charger turned the wheel off. The power button still didn't work after that when the wheel was on. Just when I was about to get my GoPro to document it, it magically fixed itself. Rode 47 km without problems. I Could not reproduce the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Artillery Posted May 2 Popular Post Share Posted May 2 Since I have not seen it anywhere else in the thread. The Veteran Lynx is certified by third party testing as IPX6. Link to Veteran Lynx PASS for - High Pressure Water Stream Test for IPX6 The X just means it was not tested, not that it is not also Dust proof. The testing was for 3 minutes of sustained spray by a 100L/minute water spray while mounted to a 1RPM turn table. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 2 Share Posted May 2 1 hour ago, Artillery said: Since I have not seen it anywhere else in the thread. The Veteran Lynx is certified by third party testing as IPX6. Link to Veteran Lynx PASS for - High Pressure Water Stream Test for IPX6 The X just means it was not tested, not that it is not also Dust proof. The testing was for 3 minutes of sustained spray by a 100L/minute water spray while mounted to a 1RPM turn table. All the various test reports was posted by Jason at some point in the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 (edited) On 4/28/2024 at 10:17 AM, WheelGoodTime said: At long last, I conducted my review of the Lynx. And I think it was the absolute best review yet Man! I appreciate the hell outta your videos👊 The Lynx has kicked my ass so many times already, lol. I love this machine! I thought about getting rid of her before she kills me, but I just can’t. I’ve learned to respect it for sure! Edited May 3 by o u euc 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 (edited) On 5/1/2024 at 11:11 PM, Artillery said: The Veteran Lynx is certified by third party testing as IPX6 My paperwork says ip65. That’s dust proof and low pressure splash proof. Not submersible. The 6 is for dust the 5 is for water. Batch 1 tho. I just read the report and it’s from before I got my Lynx. Strang my paperwork says ip65 instead of x6. There’s a big difference between high pressure water and low pressure. But in the report it was a low pressure rain test, yet they labeled it x6? I wouldn’t be afraid to ride it in wet conditions, but one should be aware that behind the toe pad gaurd are 2 large trolley handle holes to the sealed batteries. Other than that everything is well sealed. Bearing seals, and control box is sealed with silicone, and motor cable is sealed. should be good. Edited May 3 by o u euc 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sffish Posted May 3 Share Posted May 3 I'm adjusting the charger voltage so that it doesn't overcharge the batteries, right now I've adjusted it to 151.1V. What's a good total voltage I should shoot for? Another way to look at it is what should the individual cells read at the end of charging? Just under 4.2V? I don't have any downhills when I start riding so I can get close to the battery limit without fear of overcharging from braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 Re suspension oil, I wanted to try 140ml instead of 150ml to see how it behaves if it was noticable softer, well I can't tell for sure it's very difficult to judge, it feels good but don't know if it's really that much different from before, would really need two wheels side by side to compare, but nothing bad happens at least. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post novazeus Posted May 5 Popular Post Share Posted May 5 i think i got lucky. 2 5 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joyrider Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 13 minutes ago, novazeus said: i think i got lucky. Def. LOL. But lottery tonight bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t0me Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 (edited) Mods. Time will tell if it works, and is strong enough. Weather and injury conspiring against me riding much. So I got busy in the shed and did some new mods. None of the aftermarket pedals are big enough as far as I'm concerned, and they're expensive. What I've put together here is very cheap to do if you don't count labour time. I've used 4mm ali plate, some polymorph, new bolts, some trim and spare nuts I had lying around. I've achieved - nearly horizontal pedals (5mm spacing gives about 1 degree of tilt) and food pedals big enough to accommodate my preferred stance. Durability, comfort, strength... time and observation will tell. The profile of the ali channel the pedal hanger sits into adds to its strength. My spacers negated it. I needed something to fill the gaps. I used polymorph. Squished in there it formed the channel grip. Adding longer screws and "adjusting" the existing screw holes to allow the angle. The nuts I've used as spacers are 5mm, I'd suggest 4mm to give the pedals a little more tilt. At 5mm they're almost horizontal. 2' would be better I think. The pedal extension plates fit over some of the existing studs, using the front studs to add some rise to them. They're held on by one bolt with nyloc and oen threaded M5. That with the existing studs as "locators" to help hold them in place, should be enough, but time will tell. My front pads are 4mm ali plate too, attached only at the foot jump pad, they flex and have been working extremely well. When I find an offcut of angle the right size I'll be making up some rear pads in the same way. The pictures aren't in order. Edited May 5 by t0me 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onkeldanuel Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 (edited) 5 hours ago, Rawnei said: Re suspension oil, I wanted to try 140ml instead of 150ml to see how it behaves if it was noticable softer, well I can't tell for sure it's very difficult to judge, it feels good but don't know if it's really that much different from before, would really need two wheels side by side to compare, but nothing bad happens at least. Dont do less , will bottomout then...140 is perfect....(first i did 120ml and bottomed out on jumps then -->83Kg on 70lbs spring) The oil rating itself does more changes but nothing to major also...no harm also Now i use 95-98% of the suspension travel on my hardest riding with softest 2,5wt oil and have 27% sag it changes the charakteristics to your liking like faster/slower rebound/comp...little softer or harder ...for example very handy if your springweight is slightly off from Optimum... Edited May 5 by onkeldanuel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberwolf Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 (edited) On 5/1/2024 at 1:45 AM, Rawnei said: 150ml is the correct amount, possibly there was some more tiny drops in there that didn't come out? It has some nooks and crevices that can trap some oil while pouring it out. I think that was it, I noticed there was a bit more that had dribbled out while I was changing the seals, so I went with 150ml - Redline 5wt for the Compression side, and 10wt for the Rebound, and also swapped the 66lb springs to 70lb. Made a big difference overall with the suspension, and in particular noticed that previously, it seemed very difficult to bunnyhop, to the point that I could barely lift it off the ground without a jump/speed to help. After changing oil/seals/springs, bunny-hopping is now just as easy as on my Patton. On a completely seperate note, and previous comment notwithstanding - I don't know if I got a lemon or something, but despite being Batch 4, this thing feels like a damn Batch 1 wheel; so much so in fact that I've found myself contemplating how many 12-Gauge Magnum Slugs it would take to swiss-cheese the motherfucker (and how many youtube views it might get!). This thing has been infinitely more frustrating to work on than my Patton, and the build quality just seems absolute shit in comparison. I've now spent more time working on this wheel than riding it, am on the 3rd tire/2nd tube (thought maybe the original tube was part of the problem), and still don't have the damn thing perfectly centered. For some reason, as soon as the bead pops into place, the damn tire seems to be practically welded in place (particularly on one side) regardless of what I've used to lube it... I'm also at this very moment unable to open or close the trolley handle without taking the handle-part off first. Speaking from the perspective of someone who has done nearly all my own automotive work for the past 30+ years, and has used both lathes and 3-axis mills to machine my own parts (and can generally hold tolerances down to about 5-tenths [of a thousandth of an inch]) out of aluminum, steel, and Grade 5 Titanium; this Lynx has been one of the most frustrating things to work on that I can presently recall... I dont care what independent QA was supposedly done - it didn't catch my non-centered tire, or the (outward-bulging) dent in one of the battery boxes, or the flimsy-ass and problematic trolley handle. I expected way the hell more from Leaperkim on this one and at this price-point... Edited May 6 by Cyberwolf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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