Rawnei Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 3 hours ago, Cyberwolf said: I think that was it, I noticed there was a bit more that had dribbled out while I was changing the seals, so I went with 150ml - Redline 5wt for the Compression side, and 10wt for the Rebound, and also swapped the 66lb springs to 70lb. Made a big difference overall with the suspension, and in particular noticed that previously, it seemed very difficult to bunnyhop, to the point that I could barely lift it off the ground without a jump/speed to help. After changing oil/seals/springs, bunny-hopping is now just as easy as on my Patton. On a completely seperate note, and previous comment notwithstanding - I don't know if I got a lemon or something, but despite being Batch 4, this thing feels like a damn Batch 1 wheel; so much so in fact that I've found myself contemplating how many 12-Gauge Magnum Slugs it would take to swiss-cheese the motherfucker (and how many youtube views it might get!). This thing has been infinitely more frustrating to work on than my Patton, and the build quality just seems absolute shit in comparison. I've now spent more time working on this wheel than riding it, am on the 3rd tire/2nd tube (thought maybe the original tube was part of the problem), and still don't have the damn thing perfectly centered. For some reason, as soon as the bead pops into place, the damn tire seems to be practically welded in place (particularly on one side) regardless of what I've used to lube it... I'm also at this very moment unable to open or close the trolley handle without taking the handle-part off first. Speaking from the perspective of someone who has done nearly all my own automotive work for the past 30+ years, and has used both lathes and 3-axis mills to machine my own parts (and can generally hold tolerances down to about 5-tenths [of a thousandth of an inch]) out of aluminum, steel, and Grade 5 Titanium; this Lynx has been one of the most frustrating things to work on that I can presently recall... I dont care what independent QA was supposedly done - it didn't catch my non-centered tire, or the (outward-bulging) dent in one of the battery boxes, or the flimsy-ass and problematic trolley handle. I expected way the hell more from Leaperkim on this one and at this price-point... Sounds like you're having a lot of small annoying issues, re: taking the Lynx apart I found it easier than both Patton and Sherman S and they did some design consideration and improvements for maintenance that really helps (grooves for battery cables, the attachment for the mudguard, etc). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onkeldanuel Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 26 minutes ago, Rawnei said: Sounds like you're having a lot of small annoying issues, re: taking the Lynx apart I found it easier than both Patton and Sherman S and they did some design consideration and improvements for maintenance that really helps (grooves for battery cables, the attachment for the mudguard, etc). I also find these small changes really great, way superior over SS for working on 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onkeldanuel Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 3 hours ago, Cyberwolf said: I think that was it, I noticed there was a bit more that had dribbled out while I was changing the seals, so I went with 150ml - Redline 5wt for the Compression side, and 10wt for the Rebound, and also swapped the 66lb springs to 70lb. Nice, whats your riding weight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberwolf Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 13 hours ago, Rawnei said: Sounds like you're having a lot of small annoying issues, re: taking the Lynx apart I found it easier than both Patton and Sherman S and they did some design consideration and improvements for maintenance that really helps (grooves for battery cables, the attachment for the mudguard, etc). What it's seeming like is they get an "A for Effort" with the design improvements, but a "D for (consistent) Execution" when it comes to actual quality of build, machining tolerances, etc. - at least for the one I got... Yes, a bunch of small annoying issues that likely won't bother me while riding once I get it dialed-in, but will be looming in the back of my mind any time it requires work... For example, reducing the number of screws holding the battery box to the top seems great and definately reduces the teardown & assembly effort/steps, but that benefit is largely negated if every threaded hole looks like it was machined by a 10 year old kid using a half-worn-out old tap. I'd rather have the bazillion screws on the patton with reasonably clean threads on all of them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 25 minutes ago, Cyberwolf said: What it's seeming like is they get an "A for Effort" with the design improvements, but a "D for (consistent) Execution" when it comes to actual quality of build, machining tolerances, etc. - at least for the one I got... Yes, a bunch of small annoying issues that likely won't bother me while riding once I get it dialed-in, but will be looming in the back of my mind any time it requires work... For example, reducing the number of screws holding the battery box to the top seems great and definately reduces the teardown & assembly effort/steps, but that benefit is largely negated if every threaded hole looks like it was machined by a 10 year old kid using a half-worn-out old tap. I'd rather have the bazillion screws on the patton with reasonably clean threads on all of them... You got a lemon, no such problems here, I know many Lynx owners one of them got one with couple of problems but the others are fine, probably poor QC as usual. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberwolf Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 13 hours ago, onkeldanuel said: Nice, whats your riding weight? 247lb with pack, 226lb without (as of today) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peytole Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 Here is a table retrieved from the instructions for the pidzoom Enhancer. This way you know what voltages to use for daily partial loads. NB: The lynx BMS activates balancing at 80%. I ordered the pidzoom hw170 and the Enhancer CE200, I will get back to you after some tests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberwolf Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Rawnei said: You got a lemon, no such problems here, I know many Lynx owners one of them got one with couple of problems but the others are fine, probably poor QC as usual. That's my assumption as well, but what makes it a particularly sore spot is that I deliberately waited on a later batch assuming that any early-batch QA/QC issues would have been worked out by then. Now I get to deal with this "luck of the draw" bullshit with it and hope that I can get it dialed-in, as it's not like I can just send it back for a replacement - particularly since it's not "unrideable", it's just (based on current state - who knows what time will bring) a bunch of smaller crap related to absolute shit QC at the factory - which shouldn't even be a consideration for a $4k+ wheel... Edited May 6 by Cyberwolf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peytole Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 5 minutes ago, Cyberwolf said: C'est également mon hypothèse, mais ce qui en fait un point particulièrement sensible, c'est que j'ai délibérément attendu un lot ultérieur en supposant que tous les problèmes d'AQ/CQ des premiers lots seraient résolus. Maintenant, je dois gérer ces conneries de "chance du tirage au sort" et j'espère pouvoir le configurer, car ce n'est pas comme si je pouvais simplement le renvoyer pour un remplacement - d'autant plus qu'il n'est pas "inutilisable", c'est juste (en fonction de l'état actuel - qui sait quel temps apportera) un tas de petites conneries liées au contrôle qualité absolu de la merde à l'usine - ce qui ne devrait même pas être pris en considération pour une roue de plus de 4 000 $... I have the lynx lot 1, apart from the power button which is stuck at first. I didn't encounter any problems disassembling and reassembling.... maybe you had a Chinese copy made by begode 🤣🤣🤣 or maybe they sent it to you 😜. This is already your 3rd message, I think we have understood your anger well. But having had and dismantled all the brands, leaperkim remains on top, especially with the lynx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 8 minutes ago, Cyberwolf said: That's my assumption as well, but what makes it a particularly sore spot is that I deliberately waited on a later batch assuming that any early-batch QA/QC issues would have been worked out by then. Now I get to deal with this "luck of the draw" bullshit with it and hope that I can get it dialed-in, as it's not like I can just send it back for a replacement - particularly since it's not "unrideable", it's just (based on current state - who knows what time will bring) a bunch of smaller crap related to absolute shit QC at the factory - which shouldn't even be a consideration for a $4k+ wheel... That's the unfortunate thing with Quality Control and why it's so important, no matter which batch there can be the occasional potato where something went wrong and then the QC process didn't catch it, this is why it's so important that the manufacturers strive to constantly improve that aspect, I think it's reasonable that they should provide adequate support for those cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberwolf Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 (edited) 44 minutes ago, peytole said: ...having had and dismantled all the brands, leaperkim remains on top, especially with the lynx! Agreed, it definately seems that way from what I've seen, overall. But still... 39 minutes ago, Rawnei said: That's the unfortunate thing with Quality Control and why it's so important, no matter which batch there can be the occasional potato where something went wrong and then the QC process didn't catch it, this is why it's so important that the manufacturers strive to constantly improve that aspect, I think it's reasonable that they should provide adequate support for those cases. Exactly. Right now I'm still trying to work through the issues and venting, but may find myself forced to reach out and see what solutions they're willing/able to provide (via the dealer I purchased from; I've been trying not to bother them with this just yet because they've taken great care of me with everything so far, and this would be a big problem to drop in their lap if there's any way to avoid it...) - particularly if I can't get this damn tire centered - which is the main problem which I needed to address in the first place... For reference, I started with the knobby, then tried a Shinko 241, and now have a 244 mounted. No rubbing, and the 244 is the closest I've had it to being centered, but it's still off even to "eyeball" tolerances, with a visible wobble when spinning... Edited May 6 by Cyberwolf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 29 minutes ago, Cyberwolf said: Agreed, it definately seems that way from what I've seen, overall. But still... Exactly. Right now I'm still trying to work through the issues and venting, but may find myself forced to reach out and see what solutions they're willing/able to provide (via the dealer I purchased from; I've been trying not to bother them with this just yet because they've taken great care of me with everything so far, and this would be a big problem to drop in their lap if there's any way to avoid it...) - particularly if I can't get this damn tire centered - which is the main problem which I needed to address in the first place... For reference, I started with the knobby, then tried a Shinko 241, and now have a 244 mounted. No rubbing, and the 244 is the closest I've had it to being centered, but it's still off even to "eyeball" tolerances, with a visible wobble when spinning... What worked for me on the 244 was to deflate it, add soapy water around the rim/tire, then inflate to 40 PSI and it popped into place perfectly centered. If that doesn't work you could try my centering method described here which gave me good results on other tires: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberwolf Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 (edited) 1 hour ago, Rawnei said: What worked for me on the 244 was to deflate it, add soapy water around the rim/tire, then inflate to 40 PSI and it popped into place perfectly centered. If that doesn't work you could try my centering method described here which gave me good results on other tires: I've tried both of those methods without reaching what I would call "success". (though it is better than it was) It's possible that my compressor might just be taking too long vs. a larger one w/ tank (ryobi 18v tire pump), but across these 3 tires I've so-far tried (individually) soapy water, glass cleaner, baby oil, baby-powder, and commercial tire-bead lubricant. For the 244, having already been aggravated and trying to figure out what detail was eluding me, I read your thread (thank you, btw!) and used soapy water when originally mounting the tire, followed by several rounds of attempting to use the method you described - which may have helped me get a it bit closer, but honestly not 100% sure. I may just be pushing the problem to different spots on the tire each time. Tried going as high as 50psi before deflating and trying to adjust at 15psi, 10psi, and even 0psi, but no luck. Once the bead is set, it barely moves; the side opposite where the valve-stem points seems to develope an incredibly strong vaccum seal against the side of the tire and (at least with the temps as they've been lately) makes it unbelievably difficult to break the bead on that side. I may just need to wait for a hot sunny day to get this thing really softened up and try again, which is likely the next step. What concerns me is the possibility that since this issue was present with the original tire as well as two others, there may be a geometry or surface-feature issue that I'm just not seeing... Edited May 6 by Cyberwolf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 (edited) 4 hours ago, Cyberwolf said: I've tried both of those methods without reaching what I would call "success". (though it is better than it was) It's possible that my compressor might just be taking too long vs. a larger one w/ tank (ryobi 18v tire pump), but across these 3 tires I've so-far tried (individually) soapy water, glass cleaner, baby oil, baby-powder, and commercial tire-bead lubricant. I have not mount a Shinko 244 before, but I have mounted a stock tubeless tire on an Abrams. I don't even use lube on the tire bead nor rim. I used a pneumatic hammer compressor, and a high-flow air nozzle. I remove the valve stem core, and placed the nozzle tip on the valve and give the trigger a quick pull. And the tire beads pops right on, and centred. Edited May 7 by techyiam 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl105kg Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 22 hours ago, Cyberwolf said: I've tried both of those methods without reaching what I would call "success". (though it is better than it was) It's possible that my compressor might just be taking too long vs. a larger one w/ tank (ryobi 18v tire pump), but across these 3 tires I've so-far tried (individually) soapy water, glass cleaner, baby oil, baby-powder, and commercial tire-bead lubricant. For the 244, having already been aggravated and trying to figure out what detail was eluding me, I read your thread (thank you, btw!) and used soapy water when originally mounting the tire, followed by several rounds of attempting to use the method you described - which may have helped me get a it bit closer, but honestly not 100% sure. I may just be pushing the problem to different spots on the tire each time. Tried going as high as 50psi before deflating and trying to adjust at 15psi, 10psi, and even 0psi, but no luck. Once the bead is set, it barely moves; the side opposite where the valve-stem points seems to develope an incredibly strong vaccum seal against the side of the tire and (at least with the temps as they've been lately) makes it unbelievably difficult to break the bead on that side. I may just need to wait for a hot sunny day to get this thing really softened up and try again, which is likely the next step. What concerns me is the possibility that since this issue was present with the original tire as well as two others, there may be a geometry or surface-feature issue that I'm just not seeing... Did you check the rim itself to see if it’s centered/balanced? I had my local pev repair guy help with my Lynx and resolved all my minor concerns I was having for example stuck trolley handle and centering wheel/tire and fender. one thing he mentioned was tightening the bolts in a pattern but I was not there during this process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matouf Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 Hello everyone, Thanks to a problel on the A13 highway near Paris (France) I decided to ride it with my lynx I thought I had to be arrested Et to finish, a suspension test on the Grande Arche of La Défense financial district. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 (edited) this was to view my lowered pedals to see how close they would come to scrape. hou can make them with a 55mm drop as well and still clear the battery cases. mine are 70mm drops and probably too low for rocky trails. easy to raise if i decide to later. chop off 15mm and drill 6 new holes. and to demonstrate how capable the v13 is on raw land. could be my favorite. with it's big knobby, it's hard for the lynx to compete with it's dinky tire, although it might be the best tire for the lynx for my needs. my "smooth" terrain is like cobblestone, with dips, mounds and potholes mixed in. mostly invisible. u know it when u hit them. i bottom out no matter what when i hit these unseen holes. trust me, i try to memorize where they are so i slow down or go around. they are hard on the knees and will reposition ur sneakers on the pedals. like with the v13, if u study the first part where i'm going up my hill, it's very rough in that section, and if my legs weren't giving the v13 lots of room to pitch side to side, i'd crash and probably break a leg. 120 pound object on a tire going 20mph hitting a glancing blow on a giant hard cow turd will break a leg. these cow turds become rocks. i crashed at the end because of a gust of wind and me holding onto this 6' selfie stick and iphone. i carry stuff all the time and i know the littlest thing in these howling pasture winds can jerk u down. i'm positive that's what happened to @Forwardnbakin his crash. it is amazing to me that a frigging pole can be such a sail in the wind. this is why i'm leaning towards the insta360 x4 with a helmet mount. haha, sorry, i thought i was on the video thread. i'm blaming thc. Edited May 12 by novazeus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Yesterday my Lynx did something very strange, for context I have 1600km on it now. Was on my way home from a long group ride in the middle of the day with nice and sunny weather here in Sweden atm, EUC World suddenly lost bluetooth connection to the wheel (I get the warning beeps), this has happened many times before and only way to regain connection in this situation is to turn the wheel off and on again so I did (I'm not the only one with this bug on the Lynx). Immediately after power cycling the wheel the pedals began acting strange, I have 74% ride mode which has some softness in the pedals but now they were rock hard, when doing turns they tilted backwards, super odd behaviour that felt very strange and alarming to ride. I turned the wheel off and on again couple of times but it didn't go away so having to get home I rode home slowly. Later in the evening I did a re-calibration and went out to test the wheel and everything was normal again, I also looked at the EUC World logs from earlier and could verify that tilt and roll values looked super strange, very little tilt-angle and some backward tilt angle in turns. Thinking about the current news and knowing that Lynx has a history of EMI interference problems I wonder if it has anything to do with this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 3 hours ago, Rawnei said: Yesterday my Lynx did something very strange, for context I have 1600km on it now. Was on my way home from a long group ride in the middle of the day with nice and sunny weather here in Sweden atm, EUC World suddenly lost bluetooth connection to the wheel (I get the warning beeps), this has happened many times before and only way to regain connection in this situation is to turn the wheel off and on again so I did (I'm not the only one with this bug on the Lynx). Immediately after power cycling the wheel the pedals began acting strange, I have 74% ride mode which has some softness in the pedals but now they were rock hard, when doing turns they tilted backwards, super odd behaviour that felt very strange and alarming to ride. I turned the wheel off and on again couple of times but it didn't go away so having to get home I rode home slowly. Later in the evening I did a re-calibration and went out to test the wheel and everything was normal again, I also looked at the EUC World logs from earlier and could verify that tilt and roll values looked super strange, very little tilt-angle and some backward tilt angle in turns. Thinking about the current news and knowing that Lynx has a history of EMI interference problems I wonder if it has anything to do with this: idk, my previously perfectly pairing jbl flip 6's kept unpairing yesterday. i was like, they invented bluetooth eons ago and it's still this sketchy. same problem with apple airdrop. maybe i'll skip riding today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 12 Share Posted May 12 Today it was time for the Sherman S to behave weird, turned it on and "no conn" message on the display, power cycled it, total milage and settings was reset, had to set all the settings again and re-calibrate it then afterwards rode 42km without a hitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lu2x Posted May 13 Share Posted May 13 17 hours ago, novazeus said: idk, my previously perfectly pairing jbl flip 6's kept unpairing yesterday. i was like, they invented bluetooth eons ago and it's still this sketchy. same problem with apple airdrop. maybe i'll skip riding today. Interesting. I have driven 1100 km on my Lynx. I never had any problem before that. 10.5 my several times during the ride it stopped holding the angle of the pedals -2. After going downhill or after braking, the wheel remained tilted to the rear and could not tilt forward to an angle of -2. I always had to stop for the wheel to lean forward to -2 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrabChampion Posted Tuesday at 03:12 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 03:12 AM On 5/12/2024 at 4:48 AM, Rawnei said: Thinking about the current news and knowing that Lynx has a history of EMI interference problems I wonder if it has anything to do with this Not the first time I have heard of leaperkim wheels being susceptible to unexplainable interference issues. I have heard a few cases where sherman max's just take off in a mall while being trolley'd Also I heard reports to avoid using headlights with a wattage higher than 35w. When your headlight draws more power than 35w it interferes with the board and is likely the cause of the headlight tilt issue that some Lynx units had. Couldnt be fixed by a firmware update but Leaperkim suggests replacing the headlight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted Tuesday at 05:01 AM Share Posted Tuesday at 05:01 AM 1 hour ago, CrabChampion said: Not the first time I have heard of leaperkim wheels being susceptible to unexplainable interference issues. I have heard a few cases where sherman max's just take off in a mall while being trolley'd Also I heard reports to avoid using headlights with a wattage higher than 35w. When your headlight draws more power than 35w it interferes with the board and is likely the cause of the headlight tilt issue that some Lynx units had. Couldnt be fixed by a firmware update but Leaperkim suggests replacing the headlight The thing that happened to my Lynx was totally unrelated to any of those known issues, it has happened once in 1600km of riding out in the open no where near any store or electronics, I suspect it was interference due to the solar storm can't find any other explanation, however my wheel loses bluetooth connection now and then and I have to power cycle the wheel to re-establish it. The headlight issue is caused by unstable stock headlight, the stock headlight draws only 18W, it's a rare problem only a few reports of that, someone on facebook added a resistor to their lamp and fixed the problem while waiting for new lamp from LK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stickysock Posted Tuesday at 03:10 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 03:10 PM 10 hours ago, Rawnei said: The thing that happened to my Lynx was totally unrelated to any of those known issues, it has happened once in 1600km of riding out in the open no where near any store or electronics, I suspect it was interference due to the solar storm can't find any other explanation, however my wheel loses bluetooth connection now and then and I have to power cycle the wheel to re-establish it. The headlight issue is caused by unstable stock headlight, the stock headlight draws only 18W, it's a rare problem only a few reports of that, someone on facebook added a resistor to their lamp and fixed the problem while waiting for new lamp from LK. Could be anecdotal , but Sunday after a new tire install I started to ride and at a stop light I did my typical idling pacing back and forth. After the second back and forth I felt the Patton tilt something crazy a few times. It was odd enough for me to stop my test ride. It was like I just took a hard breaking turn and the wheel was struggling to come back to center. Rode again yesterday and the weird tilt is non-existent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssenPT Posted Tuesday at 03:15 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 03:15 PM Yesterday I posted here complaining about an odd behaviour with my pedals. I set them to 100% hard mode, 0º and the wheel horizontal angles starts to offset mid-ride. I have to constantly stop and readjust/recalibrate. I also had interference with the headlight so I unplugged it think it would fix this behavior but it didn't. It's funny how all of the sudden you guys are also complaining about the same issue in the same time-frame because, in my case, I thought these problems happened right after a recent overcharge break cut-out I had days ago. I've opened a warranty case with the store in hopes of getting a replacement board but right now, after hearing you guys, I can't really be sure If there's an outside interference that is causing this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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