Extremebull Commander Pro (134.4v,3600wh,suspension)

[eezo]

Does anyone else's wheel continually lose the horizontal adjustment setting? My wheel at 4 will tend to tilt forward, so I set it to 6 to level it out. Wheel turns off, I turn it back on again, the app is back at 4 but my wheel appears to have kept the prior tilt angle, except now the app shows it at 4. I've noticed when the wheel applies the killswitch due to a sideways lean, it intermittently messes up the horizontal tilt.

This is incredibly frustrating because every time I get on my wheel, I don't know what tilt angle I'm actually getting. I can't rely on the app.

[null]

Yes same, I have calibrated it several times, wondering if I did it properly. As I do get the long beep which only stop if I turn off the wheel I suppose so.

Mine needs an added angle of 4 in order to be straight. It doesn't seem to matter much but it bugs me that some calculations might not be optimal.

Edited December 21, 2023 by null

[eezo]

6 minutes ago, null said:

Yes same, I have calibrated it several times, wondering if I did it properly. As I do get the long beep which only stope if I turn off the wheel I suppose so.

Mine needs an added angle of 4 in order to be horizontal. It doesn't seem to matter much but it bugs me that some calculations might not be optimal.

I've calibrated mine multiple times also, with similar effect. After the calibration when I confirm using a level, the wheel is properly balanced. But sometime in the future, and I haven't been able to determine what/when causes it, the horizontal balancing goes wrong.

[null]

Also: the handles are not aligned with the rest of the EUC, they have an angle. Because they apparently were designed by someone who didn't have the CAD file of the EUC. They are several mm too short in height, so that the angle inward is pushing them outward. This is a ridiculous oversight as most industrial producers use 3D files where you can be sure parts matches in size.

So lets say, they made a miserable glip because their boss where breathing in their neck. The mould is done, it is too late. Ok. But then.. they make CNC handles.. and what do they do? They copy the dimensions of the plastic handle... so that the CNC handle also have a dodgy tilt angle and a gap.. my gosh. Are the people working for EB amoebas? Do they have eyes? With CNC you aren't even depending on a wonky mould, each piece han be adjusted. But no, they dont do that. TF.

How the handles should have been:

How they actually are, all of them. See the triangular gap. It is not the mold release angle from the top case.

Edited December 24, 2023 by null

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, null said:

So lets say, they made a miserable glip because their boss where breathing in their neck. The mould is done, it is too late. Ok. But then.. they make CNC handles.. and what do they do? They copy the dimensions of the plastic handle... so that the CNC handle also have a dodgy tilt angle and a gap.. my gosh. Are the people working for EB amoebas? Do they have eyes? With CNC you aren't even depending on a wonky mould, each piece han be adjusted. But no, they dont do that. TF.

I am not surprised.

I don't own a EBCP, but I do own a S22. Even before I bought it, when it first debuted, I already suspect the sliders were bad. But, at the time, I said perhaps Kingsong must have some advanced polymer bearing material to make it all work. But no, as it turned out, they didn't. It was the opposite. It is like some business men micro-managed, and did it himself. Basically, toy versions are done better.

You would ask yourself as to how can such a design can get all the way to production. Wasn't there even a prototype made and tested. I mean, we saw Jack riding the thing. The suspension sliders were so bad that people had to lie every step of the way.

You say how bad.

Well, somebody naively made the open sliders as part of the wheel well. So all the sandy grainy particles can get in the sliders. Which means you got to use dry lubricant. But dry lubricant won't work well because of the rubber stopper nor well with the polymer bearing block. Even if one can reduce the stiction, the stiction would still be too high. But it is even worse than that. The stiction can come back within one ride in the rain.

Yup, there is no way people who tested the prototypes can miss the flaw of this disastrous concoction.

 

But here is the crazy thing.

Third party vendors came to the rescue and came up with a solution that enable the suspension to perform quite well for the most part. It is still an open slider design though, and thus will still be subjected to all the negative associated with that.

And after the S22 is modded and dialed-in, the S22 rides very well.

Edited December 21, 2023 by techyiam

[techyiam]

@Hellkitten

Actually, it is even worse than what I vented above, and what I had imagined.

That rubber stopper also has another function, and that is it cleans the channel of the slider as it slides up and down. If I remove the rubber stoppers, I can hear the gritty particles grinding after only one ride in the rain.

Moreover, the grease they put in the sliders does not act as a anti-friction compound. Hard to believe, but it acts like an adhesive, believe it or not.

Early on when the first S20's were taken apart, we saw how some of the rubber stoppers got stuck, and subsequently were tore out. At the time, I thought somebody didn't realized that the rubber stoppers were catching something or something still needs to be unfastened.

But no. In actual fact, it was the rubber stopper sticking to the sliders because of the grease. Can you image the amount of stiction.

Also, the grease attracted and collected dirt and other gritty particles, in an open slider design. Crazy.

So what a quagmire.

You can't remove the rubber stoppers because you would lose the self-cleaning function. But with them on, the dry lube doesn't work well with the rubber stoppers, even with the factory grease cleaned out.

 

All this trial and tribulation came about because after I unboxed my S22, I decided to find out exactly how bad the original sliders were, instead of following my initial plan of replacing the factory sliders right away.

What a journey. Hey, I was curious, and maybe because I was cheap too.  

 

Edited December 22, 2023 by techyiam

[null]

I fee your pain @techyiam!
It's really a shame when things are dodgy because of no good reason but bad choices..
(And its particularly rich when KS had the experience from the S18 to work from..)

[null]

Question regarding the EBCP: Are there some bearing covers existing for this EUC?
I am changing the tire and it's the occasion.

If I 3D file doesn't exist I could eventually make one. Is the concept just being a disk or is there some fancy geometry to handle the grime?

Speaking of grime the EBCP really should have a much larger internal mud guard, there are too many elements that dont like water and mud in the wheel well.

[null]

I just changed the off road tire to a street tire (contiscoot) and fount it to be partly a PITA.
The good thing is you dont have to remove the cable from the controller board.
The bad thing is that you have to do the tire change on a short leach while trying neither to pull or push too hard on the EUC.

There is only one video showing this approach to tire change. It doesn't show how you get the motor away from between the suspensions. I will describe it here:

First if you want to have the battery cases on spacers to be level with the EUC body (like the video) you'd better switch the front bumpers behind: this way the motor cable will be on top. To get the motor away you need to lift it up, then turn it to be able to place it on the rim or horizontally. Having the motor cable on top will make this easier. Dont forget to consider that the tube needs to get in, and that it cant be added from the cable side.

It was also a PITA because the rim is just 40mm wide, and the tire popped out from the one side as I was trying to fit the other side.
I would have thought such a large EUC would have a a wider rim than my KS16S.

The contiscoot looks quite narrow (75mm wide) in there with huge space on both sides. That was a bit disappointing.
I made some bearing covers while at it, will upload somewhere.

 

Edited December 24, 2023 by null

[null]

I can also confirm, as I suspected and we could guess from Martys video (and also see in the wheel well):

There is nothing whatsoever that keeps spray from the wheel well from landing on top of the battery cases. In fact the internal mud guard is so tiny I found lots of dust and even grass on top of the battery covers after only two rides, no off-road. If the battery covers are 100% perfectly sealed this would not matter so much, but I really cant trust them for that.

A really covering mud guard, one that envelopes also the sides would help a lot. There is plenty of space for one.
As it is I cant recommend riding this EUC in any other weather than perfectly dry, as it will spray water up on top of the batterie cases just from wet ground.

Its really a shame because the EBCP has qualities..

Edited December 24, 2023 by null

[Hungary]

New monster: 

 

[null]

Regarding charging the EBCP: I have a charger that is adjustable up to 10A (this one).
It seems to stop charging as soon as the current is a bit high. I had read that the Master (or was it the EX30?) stopped charging if arriving to CV phase with 8A or more. 

In the case of my EBCP however it cuts when charging at 8A with as little as 65% battery. 7A is OK. Due to rain I havent been able to ride it enough to map out where the limits are, or if it's just random. I also cant figure out if it's the charger side or the EBCP, not having other powerful 134V chargers, or 134V EUCs to test on. Basically what happens is the charger display suddenly displays 134V and 0A, while the EUC, if powered on, shows the actual voltage and the drop due to surface tension.

Have anyone been charging with 8+ Amps who can say how that goes for them? Or any experience with Begode charge current limit?

Edited January 7 by null

[Planemo]

Interesting, I thought I had read that the EBCP was happy at 13A and didn't need an amp drop before CV point. And yes, I read it was the EX30 that didn't like high amps when hitting the CV phase, I can't remember who it was that mentioned this. I think the guy was able to run 12A without problem but needed to be below 8A when nearing the CV point. But yeah, I'm sure the EX30 can handle 11.5A no problem up to CV point. I haven't actually got around to testing this myself yet as the season was over before I got my server charger.

65% seems well low enough to take 8A I would have thought, very strange.

[null]

1 hour ago, Planemo said:

65% seems well low enough to take 8A I would have thought, very strange.

Yes, seems way too low.. It might be the charger that is acting up but hard to say. I'll have to re-read the thread but I cant remember there was much rapid charger talk, exempt the approach of by-passing the charger board, but that's a different question.

[Planemo]

6 minutes ago, null said:

 It might be the charger that is acting up but hard to say.

Could be. But also, most of the Ali chargers dont output what they state either - my '8A' only put out 5.2A.

Thats why I'll never buy another generic Ali charger, they are generally pretty crap in build quality and it's a lottery as to what they actually output. I did get my server charger from Ali but they are fairly standardised so I wasn't so nervous. And after testing it does indeed output what it says (although I've only quickly tested up to 11.8A on my EX).

So you probably aren't even at 8A and it's still tripping, odd. Does point more towards the charger IMO unless your charge board in the wheel is iffy maybe

[null]

43 minutes ago, Planemo said:

Could be. But also, most of the Ali chargers dont output what they state either - my '8A' only put out 5.2A.

Thats why I'll never buy another generic Ali charger, they are generally pretty crap in build quality and it's a lottery as to what they actually output. I did get my server charger from Ali but they are fairly standardised so I wasn't so nervous. And after testing it does indeed output what it says (although I've only quickly tested up to 11.8A on my EX).

So you probably aren't even at 8A and it's still tripping, odd. Does point more towards the charger IMO unless your charge board in the wheel is iffy maybe

I've had a lot of chargers from Ali and around, this one at least seem to output proper Amps considering the wattage it pulls, even if it had 20% loss.
I've considered server PSU chargers, but the one I've had at hand was so noisy the prospect didn't really inspire me (not to mention how shoddy many of them look). Maybe some are less noisy that others, I'll have to study the question.

It would be quite annoying to purchase a new charger only to discover the EBCP board was the culprit though, I'm on a limited budget lately.

Edited January 7 by null

[BleepBloopBlop]

I read on Exteme Bulls facebook page they now list the freespin for the C40 50S CP is 145kph for the race firmware. Anyone test this?

[NotMe]

On 1/9/2024 at 8:43 AM, BleepBloopBlop said:

I read on Exteme Bulls facebook page they now list the freespin for the C40 50S CP is 145kph for the race firmware. Anyone test this?

I have been trying to find this firmware, but found nothing.

[NotMe]

Also no info about new firmware on their fb page. Asked about it in DM.

 

Edited January 11 by NotMe

[Hungary]

On 09.01.2024 at 06:43, BleepBloopBlop said:

Я прочитал на странице Exteme Bulls в Facebook, что теперь указано, что бесплатное вращение для C40 50S CP составляет 145 км/ч для гоночной прошивки. Кто-нибудь это тестирует?

Is there the C40 engine in EBCGTPRO? Not C38?

[NotMe]

10 hours ago, Hungary said:

Is there the C40 engine in EBCGTPRO? Not C38?

Yes, 50S version got C40, wide rim and EX30 motherboard.

[GitDatPC]

I updated to Begode app version 1.0.23, then flashed the firmware to JN2025202, but it still displays version JN2025201 after the update and power cycle. This is on my 50S. Maybe I should just try the freewheel spin speed now 😁

[EMA]

On 12/21/2023 at 9:10 PM, null said:

Also: the handles are not aligned with the rest of the EUC, they have an angle. Because they apparently were designed by someone who didn't have the CAD file of the EUC. They are several mm too short in height, so that the angle inward is pushing them outward. This is a ridiculous oversight as most industrial producers use 3D files where you can be sure parts matches in size.

So lets say, they made a miserable glip because their boss where breathing in their neck. The mould is done, it is too late. Ok. But then.. they make CNC handles.. and what do they do? They copy the dimensions of the plastic handle... so that the CNC handle also have a dodgy tilt angle and a gap.. my gosh. Are the people working for EB amoebas? Do they have eyes? With CNC you aren't even depending on a wonky mould, each piece han be adjusted. But no, they dont do that. TF.

How the handles should have been:

How they actually are, all of them. See the triangular gap. It is not the mold release angle from the top case.

 

if you print mine are fixed

[null]

1 hour ago, EMA said:

if you print mine are fixed

Nice, you've done a better job than EB 

Edited January 23 by null

[GitDatPC]

85% battery/90% magnetic weakening freespin on the 50S 😳👍🔥