Extremebull Commander Pro (134.4v,3600wh,suspension)

[Planemo]

18 hours ago, null said:

I’ll probably hope that it doesn’t happen to quickly and that they can be replaced by better rollers.

I'm not sure where he got them but my buddy found some generic rollers on Ali, taking the sizing from the original rollers which thankfully are nothing like a proprietary part. I think he bought 20 for like £10 or something. So not a problem to source equivalent/better non-begode parts but I can't comment on how to remove/refit as he got his tech guy to do it when he swopped out his CST186 for the Kenda 262. Oh and BTW he had no idea the bottom rollers were shot, wheel seemed fine to him! Only found out when the tech came across it.

[null]

Thanks for the added info @Planemo, cool to know for the rollers 👍🏻. I’ll start with the stock street / hybrid tire but will probably prefer a proper street tire at some point.

@TheNotoriousEUC : I appreciate the enthusiasm! Except the weaknesses it’s pretty much what I’m looking for so save bad luck, I should enjoy it

Edited November 15, 2023 by null

[BKW]

On 11/6/2023 at 3:57 PM, BKW said:

Anyone have any issues with the suspension rollers on their CP?

Mine looks as if it has come a bit loose from where it screws in and I'm guessing it's causing a rubbing/vibration effect because of this. I'm going to take it apart and inspect it soon (I've been too lazy to do it recently).

Are these plastic rollers relatively easy to fix or replace? Or even find parts for?

Just an update on this:

I finally took apart my CP today and that squeaking/rubbing noise was indeed the two big rollers on the bottom of the suspension. They weren't damaged, but one on the right side, as well as one on the left side, were both loose. I unscrewed them, cleaned them with some WD40, put loctite on the threads, and tightened them back into the holes. After doing this it seemed to stop the squeaking noise and rubbing feeling. Only time will tell if they come loose again, but this seemed to be the issue (thankfully)

On a side note: They require a small allen key/wrench to unscrew them. I will do some research on the internet to see if there is any roller with screw that can be bought independently. I'm not sure.

EDIT: After putting into google search "plastic roller with screw" I saw a lot of similar rollers on the internet. I'm almost certain just by that search alone it shouldn't be hard to replace if need be as there appears to be many online. I just found these online doing a quick search and they look like this:

Edited November 16, 2023 by BKW

[BKW]

Anyone else notice the latest firmware for the CP lets you press the killswitch button once to activate? This seems kind of dangerous to me because of its location. You press it once while riding and it can shut off on you. Thoughts?

[Bizra6ot]

It doesn't activate while moving, but when stationary seated it was annoying

Same thing on Ex30 MasPro on the previous fw, then after a few complaint posts on fb they switched the double click back on the latest fw a few days ago

[null]

Regarding charging speed: It seems that at this point we still have no official information?

- There is @Marty Backe s educated guess (?) of 10A but based on the v1 that was planned for 100v.
- There is the charging the batteries directly approach which is looking at 28A (?) but is both cumbersome and past the battery wear limit of 0.5C.

Since the electronics of the EBCP are the same as for some Begode wheels (Master / EX20/30?) wouldn't the specs of one apply to the other?
10A is pretty good already but when you're on a long range trip those charge breaks can get pretty long. If the battery health rate for a 3600Wh pack is 17A it would be nice to know if it was possible to charge with 2x8A for example.

Also: There was no conclusion regarding the single port rate AFAIK. The classic GX16-5 could take 5A on single pin and 8A when double pinned AFAICR. I suppose a GX20-4 has larger pins / contact surface so 10A double pinned shouldn't be an issue. The 10A chargers targeted at 134V EUCs have a single GX20-4 plug.

 

edit: Regarding charge breaks: it would be nice with an app function that could recommend a riding consumption range while taking in consideration the charge speed; ie, is it worth it to ride fast to get quickly to charge point and have more time charging, or whatever balance depending of charge speed. (the idea being to maximise the range during the day, considering time for charge).

Edited November 21, 2023 by null

[Planemo]

43 minutes ago, null said:

Since the electronics of the EBCP are the same as for some Begode wheels (Master / EX20/30?) wouldn't the specs of one apply to the other?
10A is pretty good already but when you're on a long range trip those charge breaks can get pretty long.

If its the same as the EX30 then yes it seems about 10A is about right. I read that someone pushed an EX30 to 11.5A but beyond that it shut off. Someone else said (again, EX30) that the charge rate needs to be dropped to a max of 8A prior to the CV phase as the BMS' also shut down at anything more during the CC/CV switchover point. that particular bit is frustrating because you could be happily charging at 10A then need to manually drop the current to 8A at around the 133v mark. I haven't actually been in this scenario yet to confirm but it's something I want to check out asap, although it prob won't be until spring time now.

In any event it's a bit annoying that I have a 15A charger but can't use more than 10~11A. Still, better than 3A or 6A I guess!

43 minutes ago, null said:

The classic GX16-5 could take 5A on single pin and 8A when double pinned AFAICR. I suppose a GX20-4 has larger pins / contact surface so 10A double pinned shouldn't be an issue.

Personally I think 8A on even a double pinned GX16 is pushing it a bit. I made a double plug/double pin for my 6A just to be on the safe side as I could definitely feel some warmth around a single double-pinned plug even at 6A. I never got a chance to temp gun it, and it was never too hot, but any heat on the leads/ports is saying it's too restrictive.

43 minutes ago, null said:

The 10A chargers targeted at 134V EUCs have a single GX20-4 plug.

You're right, most do, but again I think it's right on the edge even with a GX20. It's why the supplier of my server charger only supplies dual plug GX20's (I made the dual plug GX20>GX16 myself)

 

[null]

Thanks a lot for the detailed reply Planemo.

51 minutes ago, Planemo said:

If its the same as the EX30 then yes it seems about 10A is about right. I read that someone pushed an EX30 to 11.5A but beyond that it shut off. Someone else said (again, EX30) that the charge rate needs to be dropped to a max of 8A prior to the CV phase as the BMS' also shut down at anything more during the CC/CV switchover point. that particular bit is frustrating because you could be happily charging at 10A then need to manually drop the current to 8A at around the 133v mark. I haven't actually been in this scenario yet to confirm but it's something I want to check out asap, although it prob won't be until spring time now.

In any event it's a bit annoying that I have a 15A charger but can't use more than 10~11A. Still, better than 3A or 6A I guess!

Well I suppose the Begode specs settles it, especially if it has been tested higher and it failed. Thanks for that.
The 8A prior to CV is really a bummer! The CV stage is there for that, and it's not like 10A is insanely high either. Luckily I have an adjustable charger (doh for those who don't) but still, impractical to have to watch out for that.. I'll give it a try on the CP when it arrives and report back.

51 minutes ago, Planemo said:

You're right, most do, but again I think it's right on the edge even with a GX20. It's why the supplier of my server charger only supplies dual plug GX20's (I made the dual plug GX20>GX16 myself)

Yes I also prefer not being on the edge of things (my rapid 18XL charger is 9A rather than 10A as per Sebas' suggestion after thermal imagery). I'll eventually make a split on the cable to spread over two plugs. Considering the size of beefy EUCs it would be nice if they used a beefy port rather than constantly being on the edge of GXs. Thanks for the mention.

Edited November 21, 2023 by null

[Planemo]

5 minutes ago, null said:

Well I suppose the Begode specs settles it, especially if it has been tested higher and it failed. Thanks for that.
The 8A prior to CV is really a bummer! The CV stage is there for that, and it's not like 10A is insanely high either. Luckily I have an adjustable charger (doh for those who don't) but still, impractical to have to watch out for that.. I'll give it a try on the CP when it arrives and report back.

TBF I'm not convinced that the CP has the same charge board/charge amp restriction as the EX30 so bear that in mind. Maybe the new one (CP GT?) shares the same board as the EX30, but the older, regular CP 134v can charge at a higher rate. In fact I'm sure I read somewhere that it can, and without the issue of shutdown near CV.

5 minutes ago, null said:

Considering the size of beefy EUCs it would be nice if they used a beefy port rather than constantly being on the edge of GXs.

In a way I agree but we do have 2 ports which is enough for 15A no problem if double pinned. The problem is that most people don't seem to take advantage of the dual charge ports and insist on running one....

[NotMe]

Do anyone know if EB will add race mod to new firmware? Like Begode did.

[null]

So I just received* my EBCP 50E. Two small changes:

- The dangling part of the motor wire is now wrapped in a plastic spiral. (good I suppose)
- The larger shock-to-housing rollers has a black plastic wheel, not white. (probably random)

Will edit post with some pictures / updates is anything to be noted.

* I was looking forward to being happy and giving positive seller feedback for fast shipping, but It came in a totally mashed box (more like a bag) and with the wrong tire, I'll make separate post about that depending on the sellers response. It seems to work and not have any damage itself... (my first new EUC in years, disappointed...)

edit: 

Well the seller proposes to send me a street tire and a parking stand to compensate.. I would really have preferred just getting a street tire in the first place (I hate changing tires) but so it is...

I'll see if he can rather get me a aluminium trolley handle at half price, If changing tire I might as well get a nicer brand version.. I dont need the stand.

Edited November 27, 2023 by null

[Medhi Baclet]

On 11/25/2023 at 2:18 PM, NotMe said:

Do anyone know if EB will add race mod to new firmware? Like Begode did.

OF course, bro.

[BKW]

On 11/25/2023 at 8:18 AM, NotMe said:

Do anyone know if EB will add race mod to new firmware? Like Begode did.

I'm kind of confused by this. Doesn't the CP already have race mode on their firmware for a while now?

[BKW]

2 hours ago, null said:

So I just received* my EBCP 50E. Two small changes:

- The dangling part of the motor wire is now wrapped in a plastic spiral. (good I suppose)
- The larger shock-to-housing rollers has a black plastic wheel, not white. (probably random)

edit: 

Well the seller proposes to send me a street tire and a parking stand to compensate.. I would really have preferred just getting a street tire in the first place (I hate changing tires) but so it is...

I'll see if he can rather get me a aluminium trolley handle at half price, If changing tire I might as well get a nicer brand version.. I dont need the stand.

I responded earlier thinking you meant the 50S...

Pretty sure the rollers on mine are black as well.

Definitely get the CNC trolley handle. You might not need it, but the quality will last you forever which is worth it.

The K340A is a great street tire for the CP I've found. At first it wasn't very responsive, but that's because I needed to wear it in. Once wore in, I have no complaints

[BKW]

Btw, any good suggestions as replacements for the two black bumper/stands? They work fine but just looking to spice it up a bit

I've been looking on aliexpress and have seen a lot of options, but not sure about the sizing, etc.

Many different versions of these:

[null]

1 hour ago, BKW said:

The K340A

Thanks, yes I remember it being popular on the Sherman, it will probably be that or a Michelin city of sort.
Looking forward to riding, even with the off-road tire. As soon as it gets dry out there!

[NotMe]

9 hours ago, BKW said:

I'm kind of confused by this. Doesn't the CP already have race mode on their firmware for a while now?

Thanks for an answer. I mean if new race mod extend max speed. Like Begode increased ex30 free spin from 120 to 150 km/h using new firmware.

[NotMe]

I'm waiting for my 50S version to come and just wonder, can it be compared to my friend's ex30

He goes 100 km/h with new firmware

[GitDatPC]

40 minutes ago, NotMe said:

I'm waiting for my 50S version to come and just wonder, can it be compared to my friend's ex30

He goes 100 km/h with new firmware

My 50S is being delivered tomorrow 🤠

[BKW]

On 11/15/2023 at 8:11 PM, BKW said:

Just an update on this:

I finally took apart my CP today and that squeaking/rubbing noise was indeed the two big rollers on the bottom of the suspension. They weren't damaged, but one on the right side, as well as one on the left side, were both loose. I unscrewed them, cleaned them with some WD40, put loctite on the threads, and tightened them back into the holes. After doing this it seemed to stop the squeaking noise and rubbing feeling. Only time will tell if they come loose again, but this seemed to be the issue (thankfully)

UPDATE #2 on the rubbing feel/sound (the rubbing likely was NOT the rollers after all):

It looks like the big rollers were probably not the issue after all. I know this because the suspension started to make the rubbing sound/feel again after a few rides. So I took off the sides again and noticed the long bolts that hold the CNC rolling housing compartment were loose. I then looked on the inside of the shell that is used for the rollers to roll on and what I saw looked like the loose bolts were rubbing against that part of the shell (see picture). So I put some loctite on those long bolts and put them on fairly tightly (they didn't have loctite before).

I also don't think it was the rollers initially because this time the rollers were on tight since I fixed them last update. The only things that were loose were the bolt screws that hold the housing together, which were, once again, likely rubbing on the inner shell due to being loose.

When I first took apart the wheel I noticed these bolts were loose and I suspected they were initially that way because the CNC housing needs to freely slide on the suspension rod. I remember when I first tightened them a while ago the housing didn't seem to slide well, so I thought it was supposed to be a little loose. This time I tightened them and put loctite on them and it seemed to fix the rubbing feel/sound. Only time will tell if it stays this way; if it does, then I'm fairly certain this was the issue and probably not the rollers (although, the rollers were coming loose so it was good I tightened them with loctite as well).

The bolts weren't rubbing after my first update was done -- at least few a few days after -- because I noticed the CNC bolts were more loose than normal at that time, so I tightened them slightly (which were still too loose apparently).

 

Here are some pictures to give you a better idea (see below)

(bearings are dirty because I was dumb and put marine grease on them a while ago so it collected dirt there)

 

 

PICTURES OF HOW LOOSE THE BOLTS WERE, AND POTENTIALLY RUBBING AGAINST INSIDE OF SHELL CAUSING THE PROBLEM:

THE FLOOR OF THE SHELL WHERE THE ROLLERS ROLL ON. YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BOLTS WERE RUBBING ON IT SINCE THEY WERE LOOSE (see left top hole):

THE CNC HOUSING AND THE BOLTS WITHOUT LOCTITE:

Edited November 28, 2023 by BKW

[TheNotoriousEUC]

19 hours ago, BKW said:

Btw, any good suggestions as replacements for the two black bumper/stands? They work fine but just looking to spice it up a bit

I've been looking on aliexpress and have seen a lot of options, but not sure about the sizing, etc.

Many different versions of these:

Great, I didn’t think I *needed* anything else for my wheel……now I think I do. 😂
 

Edit: @BKW jumped into an AliExpress rabbit hole since I posted this. Search “Spirit Beast Screw Cover” and it should be a good start. 

Edited November 28, 2023 by TheNotoriousEUC

[NotMe]

5 hours ago, BKW said:

UPDATE #2 on the rubbing feel/sound (the rubbing likely was NOT the rollers after all):

It looks like the big rollers were probably not the issue after all. I know this because the suspension started to make the rubbing sound/feel again after a few rides. So I took off the sides again and noticed the long bolts that hold the CNC rolling housing compartment were loose. I then looked on the inside of the shell that is used for the rollers to roll on and what I saw looked like the loose bolts were rubbing against that part of the shell (see picture). So I put some loctite on those long bolts and put them on fairly tightly (they didn't have loctite before).

I also don't think it was the rollers initially because this time the rollers were on tight since I fixed them last update. The only things that were loose were the bolt screws that hold the housing together, which were, once again, likely rubbing on the inner shell due to being loose.

When I first took apart the wheel I noticed these bolts were loose and I suspected they were initially that way because the CNC housing needs to freely slide on the suspension rod. I remember when I first tightened them a while ago the housing didn't seem to slide well, so I thought it was supposed to be a little loose. This time I tightened them and put loctite on them and it seemed to fix the rubbing feel/sound. Only time will tell if it stays this way; if it does, then I'm fairly certain this was the issue and probably not the rollers (although, the rollers were coming loose so it was good I tightened them with loctite as well).

The bolts weren't rubbing after my first update was done -- at least few a few days after -- because I noticed the CNC bolts were more loose than normal at that time, so I tightened them slightly (which were still too loose apparently).

 

Here are some pictures to give you a better idea (see below)

(bearings are dirty because I was dumb and put marine grease on them a while ago so it collected dirt there)

 

 

PICTURES OF HOW LOOSE THE BOLTS WERE, AND POTENTIALLY RUBBING AGAINST INSIDE OF SHELL CAUSING THE PROBLEM:

THE FLOOR OF THE SHELL WHERE THE ROLLERS ROLL ON. YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BOLTS WERE RUBBING ON IT SINCE THEY WERE LOOSE (see left top hole):

THE CNC HOUSING AND THE BOLTS WITHOUT LOCTITE:

It is a common problem with hydraulic suspension wheels. 2 of my friend's Sherman-S also had rubbing sound and

 adding loctite worked fine.

Hope it works with your wheel too

[null]

There is relatively little ressources about the EBCP and its issues / fixes, so thanks for sharing @BKW .

A few observations on mines first day out:

- The spiked pedals will ding the shell if you carry the wheel with the help of a leg. This is pretty much the only way to carry it up and down stairs. First time I take it out, shell is already damaged. I'm sad, especially that I dont even like spiked pedals. Must replace foam pads with something rigid.

- To carry it up the stairs I activated the lift switch. What wasn't my surprise when it started spinning up mid stairs: It seems leaning it past cutoff angle deactivates the lift switch, so when you take your next step the EUC spins up. Brilliant experience.

- As I'm paranoid about water ingress I am keeping an eye on where the tire sprays things. Already now I can see the internal mudguard is too short, and mud have been sprayed above it, both back and front, and that's when trying to avoid anything wet. I'll probably try to extend it somehow.

Edited November 28, 2023 by null

[eezo]

3 hours ago, null said:

There is relatively little ressources about the EBCP and its issues / fixes, so thanks for sharing @BKW .

A few observations on mines first day out:

- The spiked pedals will ding the shell if you carry the wheel with the help of a leg. This is pretty much the only way to carry it up and down stairs. First time I take it out, shell is already damaged. I'm sad, especially that I dont even like spiked pedals. Must replace foam pads with something rigid.

- To carry it up the stairs I activated the lift switch. What wasn't my surprise when it started spinning up mid stairs: It seems leaning it past cutoff angle deactivates the lift switch, so when you take your next step the EUC spins up. Brilliant experience.

- As I'm paranoid about water ingress I am keeping an eye on where the tire sprays things. Already now I can see the internal mudguard is too short, and mud have been sprayed above it, both back and front, and that's when trying to avoid anything wet. I'll probably try to extend it somehow.

If you want to stick with the stock pads, I highly recommend you split them. There are two "scoring" lines by the front part of the pad and the back part of the pad. I used the "inner" most line and cut that piece out so I could place the pads separately. It made a huge difference in the pad performance, and also the front pad position on mine now blocks the pedals from scraping the shell.

Begode has had QC issues with the lift switch killing some wheels. It's currently recommended to not use the lift switch and instead always turn the wheel off.

The biggest risk of water is between the side panel and top piece. The underside/inside where water spray might get is pretty well sealed.

[null]

3 hours ago, eezo said:

Begode has had QC issues with the lift switch killing some wheels. It's currently recommended to not use the lift switch and instead always turn the wheel off.

Thanks for the tip, maybe it wasn't even the angle but a random "lift switch disengages". Will stick to power off for stairs for now.

3 hours ago, eezo said:

The biggest risk of water is between the side panel and top piece. The underside/inside where water spray might get is pretty well sealed.

It seems to me those two gaps lead to the same place: the corner where the plastic casing of the battery joins the side panel. The top gap (1) is large and water would slide right down, but it is easy to tape over or silicone. The gap underneath (2) is just the battery housing and the top part touching, there is no joint. Also, on the inner half (on both sides of the shocks) the top part goes higher up, leaving what I'll call the "main area of concern" entirely exposed.

So to me while (1) might be somewhat worse, it is easier to "fix", at worse with a shower cap, while (2) is not much better as the battery casing joint is plenty exposed and cant be saved by any easy tape or silicone work.

If the battery casing has a proper / safe seal (red) we should be good, else it looks like an upstream battle against water.. I wish it was the former but seing someone (too many pages) got a BMS alarm going off after riding in the rain, I'm not convinced.. If there had been more of these around there would possibly be better info, but not the case..

(I'd say the top of the battery covers is the main area of concern because it's where water can rest rather than flowing down like on the sides. Here is also where the cables pass)

 

 

Edited November 29, 2023 by null