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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


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14 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Mine starts with around 415w and goes up.

Is this normal?

It's consistent with my observations on other wheels. Power pulled from the wall goes up over time because the current output remains constant while the voltage output is slowly increasing. Only once the voltage of the packs becomes close to full does the current begin to taper off. 400W ish sounds right for the 3A stock charger to me.

Edited by chanman
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4 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Võib-olla saate probleemist valesti aru, kui ratas on sisse lülitatud, ilma sellel seismata, liigutage seda edasi-tagasi ja märkate, et keskel on lõtku, võib-olla pole see probleem teie jaoks, vaid paljude minusuguste sõitjate jaoks, kellele meeldib tehnilisi maastikul sõita. ja see on väga segav, pluss ma kindlasti tunnen seda istudes sõites.

No 

 

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Didn't Begode change the suspension sliders on the Master at some point in production?  I swear I read something that it went from a wide to narrow design (or maybe vise-versa).  Are different testimonials based on which design that individuals wheel was built with?

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34 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

No no no :)

My Master is like a stone! Even with power twisting and rocking, there is absolutely no play! It feels like rocking a bike back and forth. To achieve this, I did what I wrote in the long text!

I wouldn't drive a meter with such slack! By slacking like this, it also slackens when turning and therefore the steering is like a lag. My Master also had such looseness in the beginning, and therefore even when braking, it vibrated disgustingly. The gap was perhaps not as big as yours, but it was still very unpleasant.

 

 

Edited by Raptor
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46 minutes ago, Raptor said:

No no no :)

My Master is like a stone! Even with power twisting and rocking, there is absolutely no play! It feels like rocking a bike back and forth. To achieve this, I did what I wrote in the long text!

I wouldn't drive a meter with such slack! By slacking like this, it also slackens when turning and therefore the steering is like a lag. My Master also had such looseness in the beginning, and therefore even when braking, it vibrated disgustingly. The gap was perhaps not as big as yours, but it was still very unpleasant.

 

 

I wrote about trying to tune it here:

Problem is I can not find perfect middle ground, either it's loose or suspension not working.

47 minutes ago, dangasaur said:

Didn't Begode change the suspension sliders on the Master at some point in production?  I swear I read something that it went from a wide to narrow design (or maybe vise-versa).  Are different testimonials based on which design that individuals wheel was built with?

From Master V2 they made the holders for the sliders smaller, they talk about that in the ecodrift teardown, but nothing else seems changed mechanically.

 

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Can confirm cold weather removes beep and display on V 1.5 board.   Thought it was bricked when I tried to turn it one.  But it balanced.   Cool

 

It was 55 degrees F.

 

Edited by Wgm
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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

I wrote about trying to tune it here:

Problem is I can not find perfect middle ground, either it's loose or suspension not working.

From Master V2 they made the holders for the sliders smaller, they talk about that in the ecodrift teardown, but nothing else seems changed mechanically.

 

Adjusting the bushings of these sliders is only possible when all other moving parts have been disassembled. It has to be done one by one and very carefully. Only successful with very precise regulation. If the other moving connections are removed, then when adjusting you can feel when the slack disappears and when it still moves freely. Those videos where they try to regulate something are unfortunately very sloppy in my view, and with this kind of inaccuracy, of course, it will not succeed. The result is perfect only with an accuracy of about a hundredth of a mm. The fact that the sliders' play is especially problematic is that the gyro sees it as a disparity between the motor and the motherboard and also spoils keeping the position of the pedals while driving.

(In order to avoid later displacement, the adjusting screws must be screwed in together with the thread glue before starting the adjustment)

Edited by Raptor
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5 hours ago, EMA said:

i put some super thin 3d printed layer on bushings to reduce slack, almost non existent on my wheel .

this wheel is absolutely insane fun to ride, don't know how people can complain so much :wacko:

Untitled.jpg

Any guide out there on how to do it?
I can probably find out, but if there is already a video or a guide, I safe loads of time I need for all the other mods ;)

 

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1 hour ago, Wgm said:

Can confirm cold weather removes beep and display on V 1.5 board.   Thought it was bricked when I tried to turn it one.  But it balanced.   Cool

 

It was 55 degrees F.

 

FUCK.... I have the same problem.... SICK!!!°!

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8 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

FUCK.... I have the same problem.... SICK!!!°!

This display cold problem is currently present on all these new Begode EUCs. This is what begode is looking for solving software . This is a display power software problem and does not threaten the balance while driving! Until then, though
: If you turn on EUC and the screen goes dark, then do a few ticking movements and turn the wheel off and on again for a while and everything will work. If you load the EUC even a little, the required internal temperature will immediately rise and the display will be switched on!

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3 hours ago, Raptor said:

This display cold problem is currently present on all these new Begode EUCs. This is what begode is looking for solving software . This is a display power software problem and does not threaten the balance while driving! Until then, though
: If you turn on EUC and the screen goes dark, then do a few ticking movements and turn the wheel off and on again for a while and everything will work. If you load the EUC even a little, the required internal temperature will immediately rise and the display will be switched on!

My wheel does this also.  Before I ride, I switch it on, and also engage the headlight, then gear up.  After temp on my app reaches 13 degrees Celsius, I see the rear brake light begin to flicker, followed by the headlight.  Once the headlight is on, I turn the wheel off and on again...then the display will turn on too.👍

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5 hours ago, Raptor said:

This is what begode is looking for solving software .

Speaking of which, the software presents a number of firmwares, obviously many different Begode wheels, with not a word what does what.

I'm simply not daring to do an update.

For example I see master v2(t) firmware. What is this?! Not a word. How could one risk it without knowing what is it and what is the wheel's version really and how it will affect it.

And it detects mine as a firmware not for master, it seems.

Edited by Aztek
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14 minutes ago, Raptor said:

🤔Hello .
I still watched this video and... I have the impression that the Master has completely forgotten to put bushings on the sliders, or at least there are not four! This gap is too big for that!

No, as I already wrote I have disassembled the whole wheel already, the video was made prior to that and deadzone is smaller after but still very noticeable.

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4 hours ago, Aztek said:

Speaking of which, the software presents a number of firmwares, obviously many different Begode wheels, with not a word what does what.

I'm simply not daring to do an update.

For example I see master v2(t) firmware. What is this?! Not a word. How could one risk it without knowing what is it and what is the wheel's version really and how it will affect it.

And it detects mine as a firmware not for master, it seems.

I think so too. Since my Master has worked better in other respects than many complain about here (my Master doesn't have pedals dipping when turning and pedals no swinging, etc.), I will not update the software! I have also been able to get the display to work in a few moments when it's cold (at very low temperatures I can't do the trick of switching the lights)! However, it always works: I turn it on and step on it and forcefully make a few forward and backward movements. The temperature rises immediately and now when I turn it on again, the display can work immediately.

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7 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

No, as I already wrote I have disassembled the whole wheel already, the video was made prior to that and deadzone is smaller after but still very noticeable.

In this case, maybe the bushings were still a little too loose! This adjustment is very tedious and requires time and patience, but the result is worth it! After a long adjustment, my Master is absolutely free of these slacks, and the sliders still move freely

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1 hour ago, Raptor said:

In this case, maybe the bushings were still a little too loose! This adjustment is very tedious and requires time and patience, but the result is worth it! After a long adjustment, my Master is absolutely free of these slacks, and the sliders still move freely

I think I will be tearing my wheel down to inspect/adjust/tighten these bushings once the weather dictates.  It'll give me an opportunity to go over the whole wheel for any other deficiencies.

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21 hours ago, Greg X said:

 

maybe You know, if there is a chance for Master with little bigger battery 2800-3000wh?

This model is close to sweet spot for most riders, needs just little bigger range. Ok, we will have ex30 soon, but this is already very heavy and very expensive euc, Master is lighter and much better priced.

 

Ewheels has a EX 2880wh model listed. That is as close to a slightly bigger master as you’re gonna get. It (maybe) will be the lightest version of the Ex Vs the 3600wh version. 
 

another thing to consider is that while this may sound awesome. 134v wheel isn’t going to give you 100v range on 2880wh. So 2880wh may be great for you in a 100v wheel, it might not be enough range for you in a 134v wheel. 

Edited by Mayhem
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