Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension

[EMA]

On 1/8/2024 at 10:44 AM, Panzer04 said:

Having a Master V4 on hand, I can confirm it's between 41 and 42kg, within the accuracy of a bathroom scale. It's definitely on the chunky side. My scale could of course be off and it's actually 43kg..

naked or with pads and stuff ? what shock ?

[Panzer04]

1 hour ago, EMA said:

naked or with pads and stuff ? what shock ?

Stock Begode shock and new begode linkage. I did remove the kickstand, however, as my TPU casing has its own stand.

Remeasuring shows it at 42KG with all pads, Titan armour and Ripoff grizzla power pads (which is probably on the order of 1.5kg TPU). So I guess a little over 40kg without that stuff? Sounds lighter than I remember.

Here's a picture showing the measurement - I tried to keep it as upright as possible.

 

Edited January 16 by Panzer04

[EMA]

3 hours ago, Panzer04 said:

Stock Begode shock and new begode linkage. I did remove the kickstand, however, as my TPU casing has its own stand.

Remeasuring shows it at 42KG with all pads, Titan armour and Ripoff grizzla power pads (which is probably on the order of 1.5kg TPU). So I guess a little over 40kg without that stuff? Sounds lighter than I remember.

Here's a picture showing the measurement - I tried to keep it as upright as possible.

 

thanks for the details, btw you have lot of stuff on it

[Timwheel]

Hello team, this thread has been dying even though the master seems to still be in high use, but I see that as a win: it doesn't seem that the wheel poses much problems .... I recently crossed 3000km on mine without a single issue (V2), I just changed the thermal paste (made it run at +10°c ambient under pretty much any condition, so really cool in every sense)and made a custom "slim" pad set up. The wheel behaves beautifully and I'm still as happy to ride it as ever, learning to love it more everyday.

It seems to me that you can't make a real jump in performance from there. Even the new shiny lynx isn't really "better" performance-wise for most rides (I rarely go above 70km/h but I cruise at 55/60 for most of my trips).

I have the means to buy a new wheel, but as I want to make sure that this wheel is used enough to justify its production, I'm hesitating between selling it and using the funds to buy a new one, or upgrading it slightly to make it perfect. It is more to make sure i'm not spoiling myself too much and to not get back to buying a wheel every few months, which I did early on:
I began Riding june 2021, by the end of 2021 I had KS14S, MCM5V2, MS3S+, Nikola and finally a V12). I sold everything for a profit (which seemed absolutely wild to me ?), got a Sherman Max when It was available, loved that wheel to death but needed suspension for Paris' paved roads, sold it for a profit (AGAIN ??) and bought myself a Master in Nov 2022, which is currently my only wheel and is perfect for my use.

I just would like to upgrade the suspension geometry and have a handle up front to lift it with the kickstand and the handle more easily. That would make me willing to keep on riding nearly forever... I may miss a bit of battery, as I ride pretty hard and I'm 100kgs geared, but my trips are all 20km max and I always carry the big fat horrible charger with me to have as much performance enveloppe as possible. I only ride city, moderate speed (60 km/h cruising, maybe topping out at 70km/h from time to time but nothing crazier than that), and I appreciate the ability to seat on longer stretches of road (I try not to in order to be able to react and brake easily though). The only thing I may want is a bit more torque and responsiveness, but without sacrificing stability so keeping the wheel diameter (except if some of those 16" that are really 18"are really known for their insane torque and stability)

So here's my question:

Did any of you guys upgrade ? Was that upgrade significant or a side step ? What is your use case ?

Thank you very much for reading me if you did, and long live the master

[Janus]

2 hours ago, Timwheel said:

Hello team, this thread has been dying even though the master seems to still be in high use, but I see that as a win: it doesn't seem that the wheel poses much problems .... I recently crossed 3000km on mine without a single issue (V2), I just changed the thermal paste (made it run at +10°c ambient under pretty much any condition, so really cool in every sense)and made a custom "slim" pad set up. The wheel behaves beautifully and I'm still as happy to ride it as ever, learning to love it more everyday.

It seems to me that you can't make a real jump in performance from there. Even the new shiny lynx isn't really "better" performance-wise for most rides (I rarely go above 70km/h but I cruise at 55/60 for most of my trips).

I have the means to buy a new wheel, but as I want to make sure that this wheel is used enough to justify its production, I'm hesitating between selling it and using the funds to buy a new one, or upgrading it slightly to make it perfect. It is more to make sure i'm not spoiling myself too much and to not get back to buying a wheel every few months, which I did early on:
I began Riding june 2021, by the end of 2021 I had KS14S, MCM5V2, MS3S+, Nikola and finally a V12). I sold everything for a profit (which seemed absolutely wild to me ?), got a Sherman Max when It was available, loved that wheel to death but needed suspension for Paris' paved roads, sold it for a profit (AGAIN ??) and bought myself a Master in Nov 2022, which is currently my only wheel and is perfect for my use.

I just would like to upgrade the suspension geometry and have a handle up front to lift it with the kickstand and the handle more easily. That would make me willing to keep on riding nearly forever... I may miss a bit of battery, as I ride pretty hard and I'm 100kgs geared, but my trips are all 20km max and I always carry the big fat horrible charger with me to have as much performance enveloppe as possible. I only ride city, moderate speed (60 km/h cruising, maybe topping out at 70km/h from time to time but nothing crazier than that), and I appreciate the ability to seat on longer stretches of road (I try not to in order to be able to react and brake easily though). The only thing I may want is a bit more torque and responsiveness, but without sacrificing stability so keeping the wheel diameter (except if some of those 16" that are really 18"are really known for their insane torque and stability)

So here's my question:

Did any of you guys upgrade ? Was that upgrade significant or a side step ? What is your use case ?

Thank you very much for reading me if you did, and long live the master

Hi there

I am from Grenoble in France but let's stick to English! I have 10 years EUC riding now, and bought a Master V2 in 2022 along with a Shermax, after using a Tesla V2 and a S18 during 4-5 years. Now I got a Commander Pro as an upgrade to the Shermax => I can't ride without suspension anymore.

My use cases are S18 for commuting and urban tricks, Master (offroad tire) for offroading (mountain), Commander Pro (street tire) for long range roadtrips.

I agree that the Master is a very good wheel for everything except commuting (heavy in the train I must take) and very long-range trips. It is very nimble and precise for my riding in mountain/rocks. I had a supsension upgrade: I was quite lazy and wanted to test MyeWheel so I ordered thei product, and I am very satisfied. I kept the same shock. Surely you can find better, and another shock would also be better, but even through my rather tricky offroad circuits, the suspension does a very good job. Still, the one from the Commander Pro is much, much better, like a flying carpet.

For the moment, and because I have the luxury of being able to keep one wheel per use case, I won't switch to a Lynx or whatever GOAT wheel out there. I prefer to wait for the V2 of the next innovations like low-weight suspended wheels (Falcon), or switchable batteries (Inmotion) in 2025

 

[Cerbera]

Sounds like you have been quite lucky with your V2 Master, and somehow managed to get one that didn't have a failing shock, dodgy power buttons or bearing problems, all of which are fairly common with those machines I'd say. I had 2 of those issues, and numerous other problems in the first year I had it (nearly all of them resolved by Begode and the dealer, to their collective credit), and there has had to have been quite a lot of self-service, but I continue to like it regardless, because despite those things, and the enormous amount of time, cash and worry I have deployed on it, it has never cut out on me, and I don't think I will ever need more speed, power, safety margin or range than it happily gives me every time I ride... I also like how easy it is to get into and service and change tyres and whatnot.

I am under no illusion that those plastic battery cases and mountings are going to last forever either, so I have to keep a careful eye on them and the general structural components to make sure they are still doing OK; I try and do a full service on mine every 1000 miles for my own peace of mind.

However, as much joy as I continue to get riding it, I live in a country where there is a lot of wind, and that wheel's CoG is waaaay high, so I spend what I consider to be far too much time skating about on a blustery knife edge having to work a lot harder to maintain stability, and it can be a bit wearing doing that for mile after mile. It's a constant challenge I don't exactly dislike per se, but sometimes I wish I had that level of available power without having to concentrate as much, and so I find myself eyeing up the ET Max and Lynx for their much lower centres of gravity. I suspect that if my Master continues to only break in minor / generally repairable ways I will fix my problems by getting Hou's -5cm pedal mounts rather than buying a new machine, but when it is time to retire it it's getting replaced by something with adjustable pedal height, metal battery boxes and sprung suspension !

Edited February 22 by Cerbera

[Panzer04]

5 hours ago, Timwheel said:

Hello team, this thread has been dying even though the master seems to still be in high use, but I see that as a win: it doesn't seem that the wheel poses much problems .... I recently crossed 3000km on mine without a single issue (V2), I just changed the thermal paste (made it run at +10°c ambient under pretty much any condition, so really cool in every sense)and made a custom "slim" pad set up. The wheel behaves beautifully and I'm still as happy to ride it as ever, learning to love it more everyday.

It seems to me that you can't make a real jump in performance from there. Even the new shiny lynx isn't really "better" performance-wise for most rides (I rarely go above 70km/h but I cruise at 55/60 for most of my trips).

I have the means to buy a new wheel, but as I want to make sure that this wheel is used enough to justify its production, I'm hesitating between selling it and using the funds to buy a new one, or upgrading it slightly to make it perfect. It is more to make sure i'm not spoiling myself too much and to not get back to buying a wheel every few months, which I did early on:
I began Riding june 2021, by the end of 2021 I had KS14S, MCM5V2, MS3S+, Nikola and finally a V12). I sold everything for a profit (which seemed absolutely wild to me ?), got a Sherman Max when It was available, loved that wheel to death but needed suspension for Paris' paved roads, sold it for a profit (AGAIN ??) and bought myself a Master in Nov 2022, which is currently my only wheel and is perfect for my use.

I just would like to upgrade the suspension geometry and have a handle up front to lift it with the kickstand and the handle more easily. That would make me willing to keep on riding nearly forever... I may miss a bit of battery, as I ride pretty hard and I'm 100kgs geared, but my trips are all 20km max and I always carry the big fat horrible charger with me to have as much performance enveloppe as possible. I only ride city, moderate speed (60 km/h cruising, maybe topping out at 70km/h from time to time but nothing crazier than that), and I appreciate the ability to seat on longer stretches of road (I try not to in order to be able to react and brake easily though). The only thing I may want is a bit more torque and responsiveness, but without sacrificing stability so keeping the wheel diameter (except if some of those 16" that are really 18"are really known for their insane torque and stability)

So here's my question:

Did any of you guys upgrade ? Was that upgrade significant or a side step ? What is your use case ?

Thank you very much for reading me if you did, and long live the master

I bought a V4 master, so one with numerous improvements over the earlier versions (primarily slightly better stock suspension geometry and metal battery cases, though it also has a more powerful motherboard - but I suspect that doesn't have much of an impact in the vast majority of situations)

Similar to you, I see little reason to spend much more money for similar performance. The master has its flaws, mostly caused by sticky suspension, crappy air shock and limited suspension travel, but the first two problems are somewhat easily fixed and the third has at least two public, albeit expensive, kits to address it.

Speedwise 80kph safe speeds is enough for me - such speeds eat battery anyway and are enot comfortable to ride at honestly - too windy.

My current criteria for a replacement wheel is identical performance characteristics, but less weight and better suspension (albeit I am considering a mod to extend my current master's travel). Lighter wheels are just so much more fun to control - that being said the earlier masters are seemingly better in this respect, as mine weighs 42kg :'(

I have tried a few other wheels from friends, and found the main factor in how easy they control to simply be the weight. All the 40kg wheels feel similar, whatever their other differences. S22 is most intriguing to me, but has many other problems that made me decide on a Master (and in any case I hadn't the experience to decide which wheel I would prefer prior to getting the master, as I was upgrading from 16X)

Also, I can strongly recommend getting a fast charger(10-15A), as it largely eliminates worries about battery capacity on the Master. A 1hr recharge after riding 80-100km on an EUC is very tolerable, much more so than 5hrs or more on the stock 3A charger. I see little need for a huge battery like EX30 etc if you can make use of a fast charger.

I see little point upgrading from the master if you currently like it, also given your stated use case - the only real reason is to benefit from the fit and finish of a new wheel, but if you look after your own wheel and keep it in good condition that hardly matters.

Edited February 22 by Panzer04

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

I am also very happy with my Master V4 (as it was called 12 months ago). It has metal battery boxes, the new rattle-free slider bushings and the new but still crappy adjustable linkage. After I made all these modifications, it was almost perfect for my purpose. 

- EPDM foam Power-Pads 40mm
- adjustable Jump-Blocks 65mm
- EPDM foam seat 40mm
- modified NyloNove front bumper with handle and rear bumper 
- NyloNove side plates (fully screwed not glued with Velcro)
- NyloNove XL pedals
- NyloNove suspension linkage
- Rockshox Monarch RT3 shock with max volume reducer 
- mudguard that covers the shock

- conversion to a Extreme Headlight 

- clear taillight cover 

- The last important mod was the lowering of the pedal hanger by 30mm, which really made it perfect. Stock pedal hight is just horrible, even for offroad.

Once you know where Begode has failed, it's no longer a problem to get the suspension with shims perfectly smooth without any sticktion. 

Although it lacks range (despite a quick charger, as charging facilities are not always available), I am not yet ready to accept a wheel with a larger battery with more weight. Lynx looks nice, but it's absolutely not worth the money imo, because the quality is not really as good as most people say. 

ET-Max....I don't know, probably I would hate it for my use case, but I want something new, even I don't miss anything, except more suspension travel and more range 😅

That's why I ordered yesterday the new Master V4 (actually V5, but Begode probably lost track and labelled it V4 again)

So I will build all my modifications on the new Master, sell the old one, and then I will end up with the same wheel with 50S battery and maybe a little more torque due to the EX30 control board. Even though 70-80km/h was completely sufficient, I'm hoping for a bit more headroom, especially when the battery is almost empty, as I regularly run my battery down to 100 volts. Fast charging with 10-12A is then also no longer fast charging for the 50S. 

For me, the Master is still the best wheel for offroad and short speed runs

My Master 😍 > https://youtu.be/k5z22BZypbM?si=GWpK5OBQFPkdxnRR

Edited February 22 by EUC Custom Power-Pads

[Panzer04]

7 hours ago, EUC Custom Power-Pads said:

I am also very happy with my Master V4 (as it was called 12 months ago). It has metal battery boxes, the new rattle-free slider bushings and the new but still crappy adjustable linkage. After I made all these modifications, it was almost perfect for my purpose. 

- EPDM foam Power-Pads 40mm
- adjustable Jump-Blocks 65mm
- EPDM foam seat 40mm
- modified NyloNove front bumper with handle and rear bumper 
- NyloNove side plates (fully screwed not glued with Velcro)
- NyloNove XL pedals
- NyloNove suspension linkage
- Rockshox Monarch RT3 shock with max volume reducer 
- mudguard that covers the shock

- conversion to a Extreme Headlight 

- clear taillight cover 

- The last important mod was the lowering of the pedal hanger by 30mm, which really made it perfect. Stock pedal hight is just horrible, even for offroad.

Once you know where Begode has failed, it's no longer a problem to get the suspension with shims perfectly smooth without any sticktion. 

Although it lacks range (despite a quick charger, as charging facilities are not always available), I am not yet ready to accept a wheel with a larger battery with more weight. Lynx looks nice, but it's absolutely not worth the money imo, because the quality is not really as good as most people say. 

ET-Max....I don't know, probably I would hate it for my use case, but I want something new, even I don't miss anything, except more suspension travel and more range 😅

That's why I ordered yesterday the new Master V4 (actually V5, but Begode probably lost track and labelled it V4 again)

So I will build all my modifications on the new Master, sell the old one, and then I will end up with the same wheel with 50S battery and maybe a little more torque due to the EX30 control board. Even though 70-80km/h was completely sufficient, I'm hoping for a bit more headroom, especially when the battery is almost empty, as I regularly run my battery down to 100 volts. Fast charging with 10-12A is then also no longer fast charging for the 50S. 

For me, the Master is still the best wheel for offroad and short speed runs

My Master 😍 > https://youtu.be/k5z22BZypbM?si=GWpK5OBQFPkdxnRR

Well, I can't agree with lower pedal heights offroad :P, at least for rocky and rooty trails.

If you want higher recharge current you will have to bypass the charge board, as it is limited to 14A maximum (my charger can only do 15A, so I accept this limitation).

Low battery performance is good, but begode makes it painful to ride with incessant beeping starting at 105V (3.3 per cell) and it becomes unrideable unless you rearrange the pads backwards at 96V (3v per cell). In reality slightly earlier because it's whenever a cell hits these levels, rather than resting voltage.

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

Yes, you have a small disadvantage with 30mm lower pedals, but these moments where I lack ground clearance are very rare and all the advantages are there from the beginning to the end of every tour. Everyone has to decide for themselves.

2 hours ago, Panzer04 said:

If you want higher recharge current you will have to bypass the charge board, as it is limited to 14A maximum (my charger can only do 15A, so I accept this limitation).

Are you telling me that the new Master V4 actually accepts 14A without modifying the charge board? I was hoping/calculating with 12A.
I decided to use a 15A fast charger (PSU) because of the size and weight of the charger and because my Master 50E probably only accepts 12A.
I don't want to say Roger Charger, because there are no Roger chargers (unless a sticker makes it a Roger charger), but surely you know which China charger I'm talking about?
Can you let the charger run at 14A until the end or do you have to lower the amps yourself before the battery goes to 100%?

[Panzer04]

2 hours ago, EUC Custom Power-Pads said:

Yes, you have a small disadvantage with 30mm lower pedals, but these moments where I lack ground clearance are very rare and all the advantages are there from the beginning to the end of every tour. Everyone has to decide for themselves.

Are you telling me that the new Master V4 actually accepts 14A without modifying the charge board? I was hoping/calculating with 12A.
I decided to use a 15A fast charger (PSU) because of the size and weight of the charger and because my Master 50E probably only accepts 12A.
I don't want to say Roger Charger, because there are no Roger chargers (unless a sticker makes it a Roger charger), but surely you know which China charger I'm talking about?
Can you let the charger run at 14A until the end or do you have to lower the amps yourself before the battery goes to 100%?

14A is the absolute max, it cuts off immediately. In practice you need a charger that reliably outputs the amperage you set and no more - I found if I set high currents on my charger I would frequently come back to a cut off charger mid charge.

12A is a good number to use, I typically use that to ensure the charger doesn't get cut off

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

Great to hear, I need 12-14A only if I charge on a break in a restaurant an then I have always an eye of the charger. 

Usually I stop charging short after the current drops. 

[Cerbera]

1 hour ago, EUC Custom Power-Pads said:

Great to hear, I need 12-14A only if I charge on a break in a restaurant an then I have always an eye of the charger. 

Usually I stop charging short after the current drops. 

You guys really are lucky to be able to get power for long enough to recharge EUCs in restaurants etc ! Fairly sure there is almost none of that happening in the UK !

Perhaps it's because our UK electricity prices, driven by relentless profiteering and a government that seems to fully condone / facilitate it is so much so that is unfeasible to give it away !? Do they charge you at all for whumping such epic amperage up your wheels ?

Edited February 23 by Cerbera

[null]

Regarding charging in restaurants: Fast food chains have several points that make this easier than in mom and pop shops: They are impersonal and no-one will talk to you, they are noisy enough to mostly cover charger noise, they have electric sockets a bit everywhere for their vacuums and such.

(Only time we didn't get power from such a place is when we (group ride) triggered their breaker and they wouldn't turn it on again for us 😅)

Edited February 23 by null

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

22 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

You guys really are lucky to be able to get power for long enough to recharge EUCs in restaurants etc ! Fairly sure there is almost none of that happening in the UK !

Perhaps it's because our UK electricity prices, driven by relentless profiteering and a government that seems to fully condone / facilitate it is so much so that is unfeasible to give it away !? Do they charge you at all for whumping such epic amperage up your wheels ?

I think we are in the same boat with electricity costs in fkn Germany. I always say in advance to the owner or employee in a restaurant, that it doesn't pull that much electricity and I will give a good tip. 😊 If I'm still not allowed to charge my wheel, I'll take my money to another restaurant.  

In Germany, I can't afford to fail in a police chase because of a low battery.  

 

[Cerbera]

2 hours ago, EUC Custom Power-Pads said:

In Germany, I can't afford to fail in a police chase because of a low battery.  

Not sure if you're joking, or if you genuinely try and outrun them if caught ! Perhaps you do, being that your fines are so ludicrously high, and the law banning them ridiculous in the first place... but either way, I wouldn't have thought 'getting away' was a feasible option even if you can physically do it - if you are in a local area and the police are local too they will surely find it trivially easy to locate and catch you again, and then you got a 'fleeing police' charge added to whatever else they try and throw at you !? That's the trouble being being as unique / rare as we are in towns - we stand out to everyone !

Edited February 23 by Cerbera

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

Was not a joke. If I had been stopped every time I was pulled over, I would already have several criminal records, would no longer be allowed to drive another vehicle with a motor, would no longer have a driving licence and would be 10-20 thousand euros poorer. 

[sffish]

I would agree with the comments about the Master's power and range being enough for most use cases. The main thing making me want to upgrade is a better suspension.

So how much can you improve the Master suspension? I've ridden a Sherman S and a Lynx and the way they feel coming off drops (curbs) is so much better than the Master. I've got an upgraded link with the stock shock. The stock shock has a volume reducer in there so it's more progressive. I run around 225-250 psi and it still feels harsh coming off drops but doesn't bottom out; however, on larger drops (1 ft or so) it starts to bottom out. I've heard the ema linkage or loc vo linkage are the way to go but ultimately isn't the Master's suspension limited by the amount of travel it has compared to the newer wheels?

Edited February 23 by sffish

[Timwheel]

Thanks for your answers guys ! Did any of you guy try the hounin linkage ?
Someone can sell it to me locally with a spring damper with 1000lbs. It sounds a bit too soft for me (about 100kgs fully equipped) but I may keep the original shock and just lower its pressure for comfort...
Thanks
https://houeuc.com/product/master-master-pro-linkage/

 

 

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

The short suspension travel can't be argued away, but with a good linkage and a better shock, the 70mm travel can be utilised very well. However, you still have to use your legs as additional suspension and you can't let the suspension do everything. 

Whether 20mm more travel on the Lynx justifies the almost double purchase price is something everyone has to decide for themselves. 

[Timwheel]

4 hours ago, null said:

Regarding charging in restaurants: Fast food chains have several points that make this easier than in mom and pop shops: They are impersonal and no-one will talk to you, they are noisy enough to mostly cover charger noise, they have electric sockets a bit everywhere for their vacuums and such.

(Only time we didn't get power from such a place is when we (group ride) triggered their breaker and they wouldn't turn it on again for us 😅)

I've seen a guy in Paris with a commander (I think), I mainly commute between Issy Les Moulineaux and near the stade de France, did we meet once by chance ? I would have been on a master with a TSG Helmet and motorcycle Jacket.

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

3 minutes ago, Timwheel said:

Did any of you guy try the hounin linkage ?

The Shock stroke is better than the original Master Linkage, but you can't expect much. If you still want to buy another shock with a 51 or 57 mm shock stroke, you won't be able to do anything with this linkage. Get rid of these shitty Begode shock and swap linkage and shock or do nothing at all. 

[null]

53 minutes ago, Timwheel said:

I've seen a guy in Paris with a commander (I think), I mainly commute between Issy Les Moulineaux and near the stade de France, did we meet once by chance ? I would have been on a master with a TSG Helmet and motorcycle Jacket.

Possible, sometimes I am on “les marechaux” north. White TSG and looks like the police in winter, black Fox proframe in summer. We’re so many nowadays I don't stop for chatting anymore, but a hand sign is always cool. (And if ever we recognize each other let's stop and say hi!)

Edited February 23 by null

[Panzer04]

2 hours ago, sffish said:

I would agree with the comments about the Master's power and range being enough for most use cases. The main thing making me want to upgrade is a better suspension.

So how much can you improve the Master suspension? I've ridden a Sherman S and a Lynx and the way they feel coming off drops (curbs) is so much better than the Master. I've got an upgraded link with the stock shock. The stock shock has a volume reducer in there so it's more progressive. I run around 225-250 psi and it still feels harsh coming off drops but doesn't bottom out; however, on larger drops (1 ft or so) it starts to bottom out. I've heard the ema linkage or loc vo linkage are the way to go but ultimately isn't the Master's suspension limited by the amount of travel it has compared to the newer wheels?

The master air shock is really not very good. Very high stiction and it's actually precompresses/heavily preloaded in most stock linkage configurations iirc. A coil shock (DNM AR-22) can be much smoother and more responsive. You probably also want to clean up the sliding mechanism and loosen it up (yet more work) if you want the smoothest suspension.

The Master suspension can perform very well for what it is, but as stock from begode it's merely passable, not good or great (given it's travel).

Whether you need a replacement linkage depends on which stock one you have. The latest S linkages are still a little short on the shock travel ratios, but perfectly passable and I would take a coil upgrade over linkage + begode shock (though the dnm shock only barely fits, it does fit :P)

[Timwheel]

Hello guys !

I went through a small flood in Paris today. 10m max of depth up to the pedals at walking pace. I rode then about 10km home, going 60+ kph most of the way and had a very steep hill to finish. The motor heated enough so that the wheel was dry when I arrived and with the centrifugal force it seems the water did not make any ingress. It's a master V2, never had any issues at 3300km riding fairly hard in Paris' bad roads, used it under very heavy rain from time to time with no specific care, except I did replace the thermal pad by some pretty good thermal paste, making it run just ambiant +10°C indicated.

Do you think I should be worried about bearings dying after that short excursion in the water, or any other significant damage ? Thanks !