meepmeepmayer

This is the most official info we have on the 80% alarm: click. It's supposed to appear at 80% of the motor's max speed for a given voltage, or something like this. This is why the speed it appears at falls with falling voltage/battery charge, and it might appear unexpectedly when the voltage drop reduces that speed suddenly. The lowest speed the 80% alarm would appear is 24kph. Too fast to explain your beeps? Anyways, don't break your wheel trying to find out what those mystery beeps are But thanks for the tests! The battery wouldn't burst in flames. You'd just fall on your face because you overleaned the wheel and it couldn't keep up, or because you fried the board/motor cables in the worst case (you'd have to do pendulums or a huuuuuge steep hill until the wheel dies to achieve that). But the battery would not be a worry Even with a fried wheel and a short killing all the electronics, batteries seem to be unaffected. Thx for video. To me: you overleaned it or it just slipped on the grass (wheel was silent). The tire spun up (faster speed beeps). Then it fell over (slower fallen over beeps).

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The experiment is always right, awesome Maybe it's the voltage drop causing the low battery beeps and tiltback to appear? At 15% (= 54.75V for the 67V wheels, or = 68.4V for the 84V wheel) or less the wheel starts beeping, at 0% it does the tiltback also. Here's the website with the spec sheet: http://www.begode.com/productinfo/371629.html - mentions no "too much power draw" type beeps, and I never heard of any of those on any Gotway wheel.

You're right, I was thinking of the new cells! I even did the math for 3p/777Wh That makes it better. But I still think the 16XS will throttle very quickly when going 25mph, and the meager range estimate doesn't change. But it is safer in terms of peak power than I thought.

No, beeps are speed-related only. There's no "too much power used" beep or anything as far as I know

This topic is 4 years old(!) and should be ignored

edit: Correction, the 16XS is 3p, not 2p, which makes the case for its safety better. I got confused about the battery cells used. Also I accidentally wrote 16S instead of 16XS. Original post follows. - The 16XS has a relatively small (and therefore relatively weak) battery. I'm not sure you should go 25mph with it, whether that is safe. Probably not. And I'm not sure how long you can even do that before your speed gets throttled. Probably very quickly. Ignoring that, just find some 16X range numbers and halve them (16XS has half the battery of the 16X) to get an idea. Be aware that a relatively high speed of 25mph is going to eat a lot of battery (mind that when looking at 16X range numbers - look for high speed 16X numbers). So you're not going to get a lot of range from the 16XS. Going by the post above me, expect 15+ miles, but I would guess you would get speed throttled heavily on the second half of that. So you won't go 25mph for 15 miles. Long story short, the best thing to do here is get a 16X (or a similar priced, battery-sized wheel) You'll be safe at the speed you want to go (due to the bigger and more powerful battery), and you can hold that speed for a reasonable amount of time. You'll get the range that you actually need, going by the scooter rides you mention, with a bit reserves to spare, which is always good - for safety and fun (spontaneous ride extension). - Some explanation why I think that: Batteries are made of blocks of battery cells, connected in parallel. The 16X has 4 (edit: it's actually 6) blocks (called a 4p 6p battery), the 16S 16XS has half of that (2p 3p battery). The peak power output of a battery scales more or less with how many of these blocks you have. So one could roughly say the 16X is twice as powerful as the 16XS (as the battery limits what a wheel can do, along with the motor characteristics which matter mostly at high speeds). Some example 2p wheels are the Inmotion V8 (19mph top speed) and V8F (22 mph top speed). People have managed to overlean (overpower) the V8 close to its top speed when a sudden bump or so appeared. V8 custom mods with a 3p battery behaved better there. What this means (in my view) is that a 2p battery is good for 20mph, after that it gets sketchy. For higher speeds, I would want a bigger battery to ride safely. There aren't many 3p wheels sold, but the Gotway MCM5 is an example. Nobody managed to overpower that yet. Or the King Song S18, which is good, too. No problems there. Even better are 4p batteries. These configurations are used in so many performance wheels (like the 16X), and I can't recall a single case where there was a crash because the battery was suspected to be too weak (as opposed to crashes at high speeds, where people went faster than they should have with the given motor). So IMHO 2p isn't for fast and serious wheels, just for light or toy wheels. 3p is nice but the battery could be bigger (range!). 4+p is where the real fun starts, even if you just want to enjoy the range. - Get the 16X instead If it's about money, I'd strongly prefer a used 16X to a new 16XS for your use case, the price should be comparable or favor the used 16X.

Same to you! And since you now have had a taste of EUCs, get a real one An mten3 sounds absolutely perfect for you and your kids.

In addition to what is said above, 800W is only the nominal wattage. Peak wattage can be much higher. A motor is (for this purpose) just a hunk of metal, so unless you melt something or it gets so hot the magnets die, the wattage can get as high as you like in the short term. The real limitations in EUCs are always the battery (supply side of the power equation) which might just not give enough current to keep you upright the motor torque that just approaches zero as you approach the top speed, so you can always overlean any wheel if you are close to its motor's top speed That's what crashes people - accelerating too hard at high speed or with a too small battery. Motor power numbers are best ignored and you don't have to worry about them

Airlines worldwide have agreed on "We don't transport personal electric vehicles, even without a battery. Too much hassle." 100Wh is just in some rule somewhere that they don't even bother with. Only if you fly your own personal plane, which "$100 hamburger" refers to. Includes the flight costs

Any battery in a "new" i5 must have sat forever. And a lot of i5s were defect from the factory. It's such a cool and unique wheel, but I must recommend to only buy from a still existing manufacturer. Maybe you can remove the battery and check with a multimeter what voltage it has. Unless you can just send the wheel back to the seller, that would be the best.

The Tesla (late 2017) did no longer have the Gotway dance, unlike the shin-murdering Gotways before. That's all I know. Maybe there's still dance-like behavior under the right conditions? I can't imagine the un-fixed this.

Inmotion V8 = Solowheel Glide 3 Inmotion V5F = Solowheel Glide 2 The charge ports are different, so the chargers don't match, but I think that's about the extent of the differences. $650 is too much for a used V8 in my opinion. Usually they go for about 500, a bit more if in excellent condition. And yes, "Solowheel" would mean it (aka the battery, the rest doesn't age by sitting) might be a bit older and sat for a while. As for charging, use an app to see the exact voltage, don't just go by some bars. Should be very close to or slightly over 84V.

Something that no longer exists. Earlier (2017) Gotway wheels didn't switch off fast enough when fallen over sideways. Instead, they sped up frantically when the wheel was almost on its side already, leading to a crazy rotating wheel on the ground that might try to jump up or murder your shins before finally switching off. The wheel equivalent of this: This has been fixed long ago, now when Gotway wheels fall over, they just switch off and lie there peacefully

84V charge port has 4 pins, 67.2V charge port has 3 pins. You can see it immediately if you look at the charge port. 512Wh means 84V, too. Unlike ebike batteries, EUCs go by maximum voltage, so 84V (or 67V) is the max you would see.

Well, in that case it makes sense that all the stress is on the bearings. Somehow I expected the magnetic repulsion to do all that work, but it's the bearings!

This has little to do with outside temperature or obstructed cooling or whatever. The motor power cables simply are too thin for certain high currents that appear under extreme stresses (continuous very steep uphill). Usually the motor cables melt their insulation, short together, and the short blows up the rest of the board like a mosfet or a capacitor. You can tell because the cables are melted together, which probably wouldn't happen from a mosfet or other component frying and producing the original short. To prevent this, Gotway (they had the same problem 3 years ago) and Veteran simply added fiberglass insulation sleeves (this stuff doesn't melt or burn, these white sleeves you see around the motor power cables and in some other spots). The first Shermans didn't have that insulation. I very strongly believe the Sherman in the French example was one of the first ones because the fried board looks extremely similar to what happened to Marty's test Sherman on overheat hill. With this insulation, while the cables are technically still too thin (electronics that get that hot are simply too small for the purpose) nothing really can happen. Under high stresses, the next weakest component that would break are a mosfet or a capacitor, and it appears the overheat alarm kicks in before these die. So TLDR, with the fiberglass insulation, this frying won't happen, no need to worry with the current Shermans as far as I can tell

These are different motors. The torque one has stronger (wider) magnets, and maybe there's also a difference in the number of magnets/windings (idk). Torque: 38mm wide magnets, hence designated C38 Speed: 30mm wide magnets, C30 (it's just the MSX motor) So you would definitely need a new motor. And to flash the firmware or get a new board. - It's probably easier and cheaper to sell the MSP HT and buy a new HS.

Can you elaborate? What I see in the picture you posted, which is what I had in mind: The pedal hangers are screwed into the stator. The rest of the wheel and rider sit on the pedal hangers. The bearings only hold the black "gotway made in china" cap (plus the rotor/tire assembly) that rotates over an internal stator that doesn't. So the bearings connect everything that rotates and everything that doesn't (naturally), but in the end there's not much that rotates (the outer tire/rim/magnet ring plus that cap extending towards the middle). Right? - Do you mean that impacts from the tire travel into the bearings? I always thought the motor's magnets/windings catch that (they don't rub, after all, but maybe that's only due to the bearings?). - If the stator is shitty and bends and puts uneven loads on the bearings... for me that's not a bearing problem, but a stator problem But you could make a point that this distinction doesn't matter because you got a problem either way. - That's a really good point. Maybe expecting bearings to be waterproof doesn't make sense. So you'd just need an extra cap.

edit: not true unfortunately The bearings only hold the motor covers anyways, there isn't even any load worth mentioning on them. I guess the actual balls/disk inside are crap material. Or something is so uneven that they quickly get grinded away. So I believe you're right, better quality/brand bearings is probably all that is needed to fix this. And an assembly process that doesn't endanger them.

Watch this video by Vee. Contains some horror footage from the Gotway factory, which might very well explain why some bearings fail and others don't. (Timecoded at 8:02, Begode footage begins at 8:24, but watch her commentary too, it's very good) Now this pertains only to the manufacturing side. To be fair, Begode are pausing production to figure the hollow motor bearing question out, and I expect them to have this fixed when they restart production. Same for Inmotion, they will (or already did) fix this. - Whether these big bearings are susceptible to water and dirt is another question. Would better quality bearings hold up? Is it a fundamental thing with these size bearings? I don't know.

3 motors, 3 wheels, makes 9 possibilities! We're only at 4/9 now That's the one I'm surprised they didn't yet make. But I guess that would be the EXN in essence. Post-Sherman disturbed anthill syndrome? Anyways, I'm not complaining. Begode certainly is trying new things, like that strange extended heatsink on the EX.

Looks like you have a dead battery pack. Since it's a brand new wheel, contact your seller.

You can keep your wheel for 6 months and won't notice any battery discharge. Mine has been around 75% for a month now (after my last ride), and I don't plan to do anything till spring (its standing around inside, at room temp). Just charge to 100% before you ride, and do nothing after you ride until you charge it again when you need it.

2nd alarm at 45kph instead of 35! Still no freely choosable alarm speeds, but better than before.