meepmeepmayer

It's probably the charge port limitation. The weakest link determines the charging speed.

Really good point. If the wheel stayed on after charging, of course the batteryis lower.

Sounds to me your fast charger isn't so great. Or the voltage just gets displayed wrong. I'm 99% sure plugging in your stock charger will get you your 84V.

I'm not knowledgable about this kind of stuff, but using two of something in parallel always entails the risk that one of them brings the other down. E.g. the stock charger stops because the other one did. I don't know if that can happen (charging logic). So, I would try the stock charger alone first, to see what is up. 84V or not? Then, you can do 2 chargers and whatnot.

It's a bit low. The fast charger might be a little weak and not charge to the full 84V? Or maybe Darknessbot shows false numbers? Voltage readous are notoriously imprecise, that might be all there is to it, too. Occasionally new wheels used to need a few charges until they charged to full voltage, that might be it, too. Try your regular stock charger (only) and see what happens. In general, things like this are almost always a charger issue and not something with the wheel. When did it show that? Towards the end of the charging process, the current goes down to zero, so you might have caught it in that in-between phase. Balancing is charger-independent. The BMS (battery management system) of your battery packs does the balancing, but (for some equally dumb and inexplicable reason) it only happens when the battery is full enough, e.g. above a certain voltage. So all you need to care about is that you often enough reach that voltage (that's behind the "charge to 100% regularly" recommendation).

Yes, easily.

To be clear: Too many Amperes would mean more than the charge port (weakest link) can handle, but 5A is totally fine and way below any threshold. The charging get slower towards the end anyways, so Amperage matters even less. A 5A charger is totally fine for charging to 100% or any other percentage. Charging with a 5A charger is not bad for the battery in any way. You should regularly charge to 100% (and keep the charger in for a few hours after it goes green) to fully charge your battery. If you never charge your battery fully, it will age unevenly and may fail early. That is what @Chriullmeans. That's all. Hoping this clears up any confusion

@Paul ABy the way, thank you very much for posting the regular news updates!

Yes I remember that too. Well said. No idea about the details.

Imagine starting on a hill at a certain speed, and going down the hill and then stopping. Your kinetic and potential energy from that goes into regen (and motor heat). In principle, the way you do it shouldn't matter. So (in this simple theory) speed shouldn't matter (ignoring air resistance where speed certainly matters), and steepness shouldn't matter as long as the overall height difference stays the same. There might very well be different regen efficiencies at different speeds (and temperatures) or when braking harder. Or the motor might just do something entirely different at very low speeds (close to standstill) where it doesn't regen and just fine-balances. I think @RagingGrandpamentioned something like that once. I don't know. Maybe my wheel just got hotter due to the lack of cooling from the wind when going really slowly.

Yep, then just nothing happens. You can imagine shorting the motor, which locks it in place and acts as a parking brake. That itself doesn't need energy, and works without a battery (any fried wheel with the battery removed and the motor cables involuntarily connected will have the tire locked in place). And of course it also cannot magically create power from nothing. I think it works this way: when you accelerate, power goes from the battery to the motor. Whenever you brake (decelerate), the motor generates power that goes into the battery. So any braking recharges your battery. Rolling down a hill, you would normally get faster and faster, but in reality you keep a certain speed, so in effect you are constantly braking. And braking means regen. From my experience, going down really slowly creates the most regen (or at least the most heat). Not sure why. Maybe it is the lack of air resistance? If it is, not sure it makes enough of a difference to notice how far you can go down before the warning. I wouldn't try it. Or at most very carefully.

The board can't do that. The motor generates power downhill, and it either goes in the battery until the battery is overcharged enough to fail (catch fire), or the wheel stops (warning, and if you ignore it, sudden emergency shutdown) before that. There is no extra heat dissipation mechanism. It's "stop or fry". The V11 might be more finicky/careful with overcharging. Or it is better in regenerationg energy when going downhill. Or your V11 charger is better (stops at a slightly higher voltage) than your other chargers. Both kinetic energy (movement) and potential energy (lift energy) are proportional to weight. When you brake and go downhill, you get a percentage of that energy back, so higher weight means more regenerative charging. Eventually every rider will get a full battery going downhill, but for lighter riders will take longer, and they might run out of hill first. Yes, that's the confusing part. But presumably overvoltage is seen as generic error. I thought IM wheels had specific overcharge voices, but maybe not?

Not sure about the V11 in particular, but in general downhill beeps on full battery is an overcharging protection. Your battery is full, and any more recharging would force the wheel to switch off. Do you use the same charger for the V11 and the others? Try this: when you get that alarm, go back up the hill a bit, and see if you can go further down after that. This way you can see if it's indeed overcharging.

Link missing? I quickly googled a teardown video, and it looked like there are one pack on each side. Not 100% sure. It's this one: click. Don't trust me too much No idea.

No idea. If the weight distribution is even (it does not fall to one side), that indicates it has a pack on each side. So 520 or 680Wh. You can also google some weights and see if that confirms it. But 520Wh and 680Wh weigh the same (same number of cells, just different capacities) so this can't distinguish between these two. Open it, or sell it as "680Wh or 520Wh" (if it is), I don't believe it will make much of a difference in price. The important part is "one or two packs?".

Translation: "We'll try again in 10 years, with better preparation and a strategy". Hopefully nobody takes these peace talks seriously. These are just for show. Ukrainians do them so nobody can say they didn't try. Does anybody think, after this, that they are going to accept any territorial concessions (Donbass, Crimea) or hope for the best in future relations with Russia ("security guarantees")? Russians do them because... I don't even know. There is no way they can come to an agreement, giving up territory is unacceptable to both sides. The Ukrainians will slowly have to kick the Russians out of their country, until it's done. This is the only way this can realistically end. Russia can't "win", only destroy every piece of civilian architecture they can hit, so what other possibility is there?

Either countries are souvereign or they are not. You cannot go "but not this time..." then, and then blame anybody but the aggressor. Pretending Russia isn't Russia and every country is the same also doesn't work. Russia has no legitimate "security interests" or whatever that NATO could or does threaten.

Let's try a different approach: If your high-speed, high-range wheel could have any weight you wanted, which weight would that be? So that it still is stable etc. 20kg? 25kg? 30kg? More? Would you want different weights for offroad and on-road riding? Is there a perfect weight for a performance wheel, or does it depend on what you want to use it for?

It's not. Didn't watch the video, but this both-sideing is ridiculous (and plain false). Don't confuse decades-long Russian propaganda with reality. If you don't want a country to join an alliance specifically against your country, maybe think about why they do it, instead of blaming them. The only threat that NATO poses is are unassailable free and prosperous countries that make the Russian cleptostate look as horrible as it is, that's why all the NATO-whining happens. The only threat NATO (and "the West") poses is to the mafia in charge.

This is true. No wheel feels heavy while you are riding it. And some weight might be nice to get stability. But you feel the weight when you are not riding, and I wonder if wheels couldn't be a little lighter without any downsides when riding.

The wheel/board literally does not know which battery is connected. It just reads its voltage. So no app can do anything. To know the battery capacity, you have to open it and check the sticker that (hopefully) is on the battery packs. I don't know any other trick to figure out the battery size. Gotway wheels had these small stickers with the battery size on them, presumably you didn't happen to overlook that somewhere on your MCM4?

It's a great looking wheel, and one of the ligther ones. Tell me about it

2.2kg for only a tire?! If you say it I believe it but...phew

At this point, it's not the batteries that are so crazy heavy. For any given wheel, only about 25% of weight is the battery! The motor and rest is so heavy! I was going to expand on this here, but it got long and it is offtopic, so you can find more here:

At first glance, one thinks bigger batteries are to blame for the crazy heavy new wheels. But if you do the math, it turns out it's not the batteries. It's the motors and the rest of the construction! And it was always this bad. Here are some example wheels: Abrams 44kg, of which about 10kg (only 23%!!) are the 2700Wh of battery EX20S 47kg, of which under 14kg (29%) are the 3600Wh battery V11 27kg, of which under 6kg (22%) are the 1500Wh battery V12 29kg, of which under 7kg (24%) are the 1800Wh battery S18 25 kg, of which under 4.5kg (18% OMG!!) are the 1110Wh battery S20 36kg, of which under 9kg (25%) are the 2220Wh battery Master 36kg, of which about 9kg (25%) are the 2400Wh battery Sherman MAX 39kg(?), of which under 14kg (36%) are the 3600Wh battery This is depressing! If you're very lucky, only one third of the entire wheel weight is the battery. More likely, it's one fourth or even (way) less. For comparison some slightly older wheels: RS 27kg, of which under 7kg (26%) are the 1800Wh battery 18XL 25.5kg, of which about 6kg (24%) are the 1600Wh battery 16X 24.5kg, of which about 6kg (25%) are the 1600Wh battery Nikola 26kg, of which under 7kg (27%) are the 1800Wh battery V10F 20.5kg, of which about 4kg (20%) are the ~1000Wh battery This isn't even better! Some really old wheels: ACM 20kg, of which about 6kg (30%) are the 1600Wh battery Msuper V3 26kg(?), of which about 6kg (23%) are the 1600Wh battery It was never good - Do you think wheels could be lighter if manufacturers cared (more) about weight? Or is there some reason why the motors must be so heavy and the boards must be in heavy metal boxes and so on? How could wheels be made lighter if it's not the batteries? You can take away from this thread that battery weight has always been a constant (and low!) part of wheel weight. So the new, crazy heavy wheels aren't even as bad as one might think. Or you can take away that manufacturers need to start caring about weight, because 40+ kg is not fun - (Big shout out to @AtlasP's wheel comparison table from which I took most of the weights.)