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I currently have the stock charger that came with the KS16X, which is the 84V, 2.5A charger. I am looking to add another charger to use simultaneously on the wheel to quicken the charging time. Would it be OK if I used a 84V, 5A charger and a 84V, 2.5 charger at the same time on the 16X? Ewheels recommends not charging the 16X above 5A at a time, but I've also read the 16X can do 10A safely. Thoughts on this? Any general safety concerns I should be aware of? Thanks

My 460Wh/84V Mten3 has been having consistent charging issues for months now. 99% of the time when I plug in the charger to the wheel, I get the same blinking green LED light that shows up when it's just connected to wall power. I used to occasionally get the red light that meant the wheel is charging but in the past few weeks I haven't been able to charge it at all. I contacted eWheels about this issue a few months ago and they told me Gotway had changed charger manufacturers and other people were having similar issues; they told me they'd send me a new brand of charger but as far as I can tell this new one is exactly the same as the previous one and it has the exact same issue. I've tried "warming up" the charger by plugging it just into the wall then removing it before plugging it into the wheel but that hasn't helped with the issue. I'm wondering if its an issue with the motherboard and if I need to crack the thing open to try and fix it or if I should try a different brand of 84v charger. Wondering if anybody here has had similar issues or knows of any fixes for this sort of thing.

Question: I'm thinking about getting the gol' darnest best charger I've ever seen to baby my MSuper's battery pack -- the Satiator model 7205, as seen at https://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html but there's a problem: there appears to be no proper factory-made cable-adaptor to attach the generic end of the Satiator cable to my EUC. Yeah, this is a prime example of a first-world problem. Unfortunately, servicing these real boutique gagets, even here in the States, appears to require extra effort! Nevertheless, anyone have any ideas or source to recommend? My email address: stevereno7777@gmail.com Thanks!

Have you ever wished someone made a charger that had variable voltage, variable amperage, auto detect between 110v/240v, swappable charging connections, and was smaller and lighter than two 10 amp chargers? Behold the Chargery C10325 charger. The first time I saw this charger was watching trip updates from Archee Jan Bloch as he rode his modified Gotway 3108W Monster from Boston to New York City and back, traversing 625 miles of continuous riding and charging. The C10325 is a 1500W charger and weighs 3.5kg (7.72 lbs). It's is a big boy, but still slightly lighter and about 9% less volume than carrying two 10 amp chargers from YZPower. (Read more)

2 ks18xl chargers perfect condition 100$ Mike 786-631-6684 Majeston@gmail.com

Hey I'm an electronics engineer! My EUC has an 800Wh battery, and I have never used more than 50% in a single trip. I love going to coffee shops and parks to get work done, so why not tap into that enormous potential to power my laptop all day? That'd cover me for more than 8 hours, even on ridiculous workloads like VR gaming. So I bought a cheap power supply that can drive my laptop using 30-90V, which is more than the range of the battery pack. I'm using an MCM5, and I've found that charger pins 1 and 2 go directly to the battery for charging, but it appears that something (possibly around the BMS) doesn't really like power going out of the charging port, so now I'm considering alternatives. Before I pull this apart, I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions or guidance - perhaps someone who's seen and understood the insides, like @RagingGrandpa?

84v 5amp fast charger with adapters 5 amp fast charger with v11 adapter and kingsong adapter 16x and more gotway wheels Bought from speedfeet at £150 and adapters with £15 each asking for £75 or £80 posted now sold

PROBLEM l opened my 84V Gotway Tesla v1.2 charger as it was always feeling hot. This is what i found: 1. Inside of lid had obvious "overheat signatures" 2. Small Capacitors were too hot to touch (and 65°C one was bulging ever so slightly = had been close to pop), also the big choke was seriously hot. Also measured alu hestsink right by the ?mosfet?transistor? NOTE! Meassuring temp of components was made with an "air probe" = add guess-timated 15-20°C to the values for surface temp, making capacitors around 80°C EXTERNALLY in an OPEN UNIT that do not trap the heat energy. How much accumulates over time, i dont know, but it will be higher temps in a closed charger NO DOUBT Solution, MOD with active cooling 1. Draw around the active fan area and Drill as many 2mm holes inside that area as possible. Fan was placed right above the small caps and the choke to cool them the most (small 2mm holes because I dont want metal accidentally falling down as it could have if i would have made a large round hole). Make sure drillbit is SHARP (metal drill) or you will have melted plastic at hole entry&exit that is very hard to get rid of nicely (i know, i tried before changing drillbit) 2. Drill exhaust vents at the far end (by the ? transistors?mosfets? and small chokes) to direct airflow past all components including the big capacitors in the middle. I kept the output area a bit smaller than the input to have a slight over pressure inside. 3. Got a 5V 50mm fan (so it could be powered by a usb charger), cut an old usb cable and soldered + shrinked the package together. 4. Glued the fan with plastic based "sealant" (silicone would also work i guess) to make sure no air pressure/flow is lost in the "grooves" of the lid (air allways takes easiest way "out") and maximize pressure towards the small holes leading air inside. 5. Added a few cable holders + ties and there it is, working like a charm. RESULT Can feel the air blowing through all three exhausts, have yet to do a charge from low battery as the heat develops over time and then meassure exhaust temp. I do not think it will be very high as the heat was/is generated over a long time in a closed compartment (little jest energy per second, but a lot of energy in the long run) , so likely i will just feel a luke warm exhaust air, if even that, as the heat energy is removed instantly every time slice and is likely a lot less than what this simple convection cooling csn hsndle. A.k.a. it should be more than enough to kepp things chill :-)

Hey Guys I'm ordering a inmotion v8f but it comes with a US charger, I'm wondering if I can plug this charger into a UK socket with an adapter without the machine blowing up lol? I really don't want to pay £50 for a Uk charger. Thanks

I've been noticing that the light on my Ninebot S2 charger never turns green as it should when the charge reaches 100%... It is not a big deal, but I am afraid to fry my batteries. Suggestions?

I recently found out that I could not fully charge my V8 using the original factory default 84V 1.5A charger. The charger light always turns green while the battery indicator on V8 is still blinking. Tried few different experiments using Charge Doctor Voltage output with 3 different chargers: Charger A - my oldest charger, about 15 - 16 months usage, indicates 79.8V - 79.9V. Charger B - about 6 months usage, indicates 80.5V - 80.6V. Charger C - about 3 months usage, indicates 81V. I have never really noticed the Voltage while they were brand new though. Are they supposed to be exact 84V showing on Charge Doctor? Could anyone with V8 and Charge Doctor confirm please? What is wrong with these? Which components are failing/aging and need to be replaced? Is it normal for chargers to have output voltage drops overtime like this? I believe I have always taken good care of them.

Looking to buy a fast charger for my Gotway MSX. If you have one youre willing to sell, please let me know! Thanks!

Hobby Wheel Gadget Factory is proud to present the "Charge Doctor", specifically designed to survey the monowheels' batteries. It's in fact an off-the-shelf USB charge monitor I have hacked and reprogrammed for our use. Specifications Voltage 40.0V - 80.0V Current 0.00 - 3.00A mAh-meter 0-19999 mAh Energy meter 0-999.9 Wh Serial data output for logging at 9600 bauds TTL levels With 3-pin GX16 connectors compatible with Airwheel & clones, TG, iezWay, Gotway, Firewheel... (not on Ninebot One with a different charge plug) Plug & play Price 15€ + 4€ international shipping = 19€, Paypal payment to User instructions First line: voltage and current. Second line: total charge in mAh or Wh, click pushbutton (PB) to alternate between mAh and Wh. Hold PB for 2 s to reset the total charge. PB also enables calibration of the Charge Doctor (see below). Data logger Charge Doctor sends out data every 10s in ascii line format with ',' separator, at 9600 bauds, TTL level Line format: Time (seconds), voltage (0.1V), current (10mA), Wh (0.1Wh) Example: 590,596,193,183 <=> 590seconds, 59.6V, 1.93A, 18.3Wh Data are sent to a PC, MAC or Linux using TTL serial-USB converter dongle (cost < 2 $) and a terminal emulator for disk storage or graphic display (see below for a setup example). Look up "CP2102 USB converter" or "CH340G USB converter" on eBay (avoid PL2303HX chip based dongles which work fine but rather pricky when installing driver). Calibration Voltage is factory (ie by me) calibrated at +-20mV and current at +-2mA. Recalibrate when necessary only if you have an accurate multimeter. Press & hold the pushbutton (PB) for more than 6 s when the second counter is at the corresponding number : 1: decrease voltage gain (about 0,02V per PB click, so you must click 5x to see the number change) 2: increase voltage gain 3: decrease current gain (about 2mA per click) 4: increase current gain 5: reset current offset = 0 (no load) The variable to be calibrated flashes and the change direction is indicated by the display's up or down arrows. The calibration mode ends after 10s of no PB click. Lastest batch of Charge Doctors. Thank you Ironfox for being the first international buyer and for ordering 4 (four !) of them. Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1676.jpg Charge Doctor display, charging a 260Wh empty battery. 1) beginning: V=60.2V, I=2.11A, Charge=29.1Wh 2) near end: V=67.1V, I=0.4A, Charge=230.8Wh 3) end of charge: V=67.1V, I=0.0A, Charge=243.4Wh Notice that it's a generic wheel (TG) battery with Chinese cells, so total charge is only only 243.4Wh, the nameplate "260 Wh capacity" cannot be reached. On the Firewheel 260Wh, with Panasonic cells, I can charge up to 285 Wh. Charge Doctor - PC link using a Serial-USB converter dongle, data logging by terminal emulator puTTY. Only two connexions of the dongle are used: 0V and RxD Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1580.jpg Serial link : blue=0V, orange=Transmit (connect to dongle's RxD) Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1582.jpg More images on the French forum : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/ftopic1000-0.html

Hello All, First Post I'm a an avid EUC rider, riding everyday to work and back in busy London. I currently ride a Ninebot Z10, which I love as the ride is so stable and I find this is really helpful when I am on the road with traffic. Despite the many reports of issues, I had had none until 6 weeks ago, when my Z10 stopped charging up. it appeared to be charging as the battery charging display was flashing as per when it charges. but the batteries were not getting any juice and the light on the charger remained green at all time. After many hours attempting to charge I decided to use the upload black box data option on the app and send the info to Ninebot, which they responded to very quickly. But said they could not help until I had tested charging with another charger, after a few weeks I got another charger and tested to see if this was the issue, alas this was not the problem. I have had suggestion that the problem could either be the charging port or possible a MOSFET, Has anyone else had the same issue and managed to or have it repaired. Or any ideas of how to get me back on the road? I have the option of sending this to my supplier who is happy to get his service department to look into this, but I would prefer to try and fix this in London rather than returning it to Germany Also if anyone has a good repair person in London that would also be very helpful. Thanks

Is this normal when charging any EUC that the board is vamping/draining the power to itself? I've noticed on several occasions that the wheel stays "on" after charging. First encounter I had taken a break from riding the EUC a couple of days and left it on the charger; when it came to ride it had drained itself from 100% to maybe 77%. I thought I might of not had the stock charger plugged in all the way. I did this another time and the power brick was GREEN and it had gone from 100% to a lesser amount sitting on the charger. Another time I entered into the room the 16X was charged and unplugged [ I had checked on the app to make sure its percentage and voltage was full] early in morning and could see a red light coming through the case. So I cycled the power to ON then off.. and then the red light was gone.

Hi guys! I have an ACM16 that I haven’t used in a few months, so when I plugged the charger to the outlet everything seems fine. LED light was on and when I plugged the charging port to the EUC I heard a pop and it tripped a breaker switch. The LED was off but when I unplugged the cable from the EUC the light came on. Not sure where to start. Anyone heard of this issue before? Thanks!

Link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2477689168956057/ My Gotway MSX (84V) Battery Repair Journey Background: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2465864426805198?sfns=mo As stated previously, I came back from a one week holiday and encountered an issue with my Gotway MSX. I realised my battery was depleting very fast despite starting my ride with a full charge. Turns out my battery has an issue and was unable to reach the full charge of 83.7V(as indicated by my own voltmeter). It was able to charge to 79.4V and my stock charger would turn green indicating full charge. Using my 3A and 5A charger did not “continue” the charge as well(both green lights), which meant all my chargers were functioning. This would only mean that one cell probably died somewhere, since the difference was almost 4.2V, the typical full charge of a 18650 cell. As I pondered what to do, either riding it as it is and risk deteriorating the battery further, or importing a brand new 20S3P 800wh pack for S$900(US$650), I realised I should check with the many reputable battery builders in Singapore. As you know, we have a lot of escooters in Singapore, and there are some people out there who have been making batteries since eons ago. I decided to go with Xoda, a custom battery builder in Singapore who has experience in building custom batteries way before we got into electric unicycles. I dropped him a message and, despite his busy schedule, he told me to just walk in anytime. When I arrived at 1100hrs, he got to work straight away diagnosing my pack even though it’s his first time working with an EUC battery. He found that one cell had indeed died and affected the surrounding cells, so 3 cells had to be replaced. It was a good thing he has Panasonic/Sanyo GA cells in stock as well. He proceeded to remove the BMS and remove the affected cells. Did a quick charge of the 3 new cells before repeating the process in reverse. Using nickel to spot weld the cells back together. Then he helped to put my pack together and gave it a new heat shrink wrap in black and then a final full charge of the whole pack. It took 1.5hrs for him to do everything and hand me back my battery pack. Back home, the first thing I did was to charge the unaffected pack on the other side of my wheel first before connecting my repaired pack. Once it was almost full, I connected back the repaired pack and reassembled my wheel cover and pedals. Then I used my stock charger to continue the charge of both packs. This is one of those times where I’m glad Singapore is a small country and glad that we have people who have the experience and know how to fix things at short notice, no matter how niche a market may be. I started my day at 10am, did a bunch of stuff, had lunch, and was ready to go wheeling by evening for a sumptuous dinner with my friends A big thanks to those who gave valuable advice along the way, notably Mathias Gran and Marty Backe

Hi, i recently bought a V10 but the charger is not doing it’s job. Just looking for someone around with a V10 charger so that i can try to charge and se whether it is a charger or battery issue. I live in Perth. Thanks guillaume

Hi guys, as some of you may know, I recently did a small DIY project to make a fast charger adaptor for my impending KS16X I ride a Gotway MSX however and didnt have a chance to test the adaptor because there arent many ks18L/XL in my group. Most of us ride gotways or kingsong wheels with the usual GX16 port. Today i had a chance to test the adaptor on a friend's KS18L. However when it was plugged in at the Lenovo end to the wheel(the other end NOT plug to any charger), there was no reading on the voltmeter. Turning on the wheel and plugging in again had no effect as well. Now im pretty sure the polarity on my adaptor is correct as i followed the diagram on the back on the KS18XL charger, and it was also tested using a multimeter. My question is, are kingsong wheels built such a way that i cannot get a reading just by plugging in the voltmeter even if the wheel is turned on? But if the other end is plugged to a charger and then the lenovo end is plugged to the wheel, then a current flows and i have a reading on the voltmeter.

Hi - I use a rapid charger, with settings from 1 to 5 amps, and various percentages 50 to 100% My settings are 1 amp, 100%. My problem is that the charger doesn't shut off. Usually I'll plug in around 80% and I've left it on for over 10 hours waiting for the unit to shut off after a complete charge... The display by then usually reads: V: 84 A: .004 Is this a problem with the charger? The V10F shows 100% after just a few hours...but I'm wondering if I should leave the charger on longer or simply get in the habit of unplugging after awhile. Or get another charger... Thanks!

I sold a year old Inmotion V5F which worked amazingly for 2 years /1,000 miles commuting to work and putting it in my closet. Bought a new a SoloWheel Glide 2. Every time I charge, at around 75-80% the charger gets extremely hot and starts making a high-pitched noise which I assumed was an overheat alarm or could also be some type of whine. Customer support at eWheels is claiming this is normal...... For a test I put a fan on the charger during the entire cycle to keep it cool and surprisingly no funny noises from the charger. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it an issue with the charger overheating, or just a funny noise?

Hello All! Patiently awaiting delivery of the V10 🤞 (yay) ... In the interim, I've been doing a bit of research on charging options. I understand the supplied charger takes approximately 5 hours to recharge from empty. However, I've seen talk online of so called "fast-chargers" that can reduce this time downwards. Can anyone offer any advice/guidance on this front, particularly relating to the V10? I've struggled to find any definite answers, a lot of talk around Gotways but nothing concrete for the Inmotion. I've seen talk around 4V/5V chargers but it's a little beyond me if I'm honest right now. Really appreciate any advice, guidance, links etc and particularly what type of charging time someone could expect if such a charger exists. Thanks all! 😄

Few days ago the power button on my V5F+ started misbehaving. At first my light would switch on and off while riding, then I had to hold the button for longer than usual to turn the wheel on/off and finally it wouldn't turn on or off at all. Anyone had this problem? Could it be just a button or the problem is in the control board? At the same time, while trying to diagnose the wheel in my garage, I was stupid enough to leave the charger on the roof of my car and forgot about it. Charger ended up in pieces, falling off the roof of my car while driving Could anyone please suggest where to buy spare charger for V5 in Europe?

KingSong KS18L owners in the USA looking for a extra charger can get them here on ebay. I had several people contacting my about buying an extra charger so they could make use of their dual charging ports but I have been too busy and was only able to get to a couple of you. KS18L specific chargers can be purchased on eBay or at http://www.tec-toyz.com http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=323471539614&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111

Got tired of carrying around the bulky charger to charge on the go on trips. So I had an idea to wire the charger internally, charging with the same 4-pin plug but off a 110v into the charger. Also solving the problem with battery power at the charging port .