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Found 33 results

  1. PROBLEM l opened my 84V Gotway Tesla v1.2 charger as it was always feeling hot. This is what i found: 1. Inside of lid had obvious "overheat signatures" 2. Small Capacitors were too hot to touch (and 65°C one was bulging ever so slightly = had been close to pop), also the big choke was seriously hot. Also measured alu hestsink right by the ?mosfet?transistor? NOTE! Meassuring temp of components was made with an "air probe" = add guess-timated 15-20°C to the values for surface temp, making capacitors around 80°C EXTERNALLY in an OPEN UNIT that do not trap the heat energy. How much accumulates over time, i dont know, but it will be higher temps in a closed charger NO DOUBT Solution, MOD with active cooling 1. Draw around the active fan area and Drill as many 2mm holes inside that area as possible. Fan was placed right above the small caps and the choke to cool them the most (small 2mm holes because I dont want metal accidentally falling down as it could have if i would have made a large round hole). Make sure drillbit is SHARP (metal drill) or you will have melted plastic at hole entry&exit that is very hard to get rid of nicely (i know, i tried before changing drillbit) 2. Drill exhaust vents at the far end (by the ? transistors?mosfets? and small chokes) to direct airflow past all components including the big capacitors in the middle. I kept the output area a bit smaller than the input to have a slight over pressure inside. 3. Got a 5V 50mm fan (so it could be powered by a usb charger), cut an old usb cable and soldered + shrinked the package together. 4. Glued the fan with plastic based "sealant" (silicone would also work i guess) to make sure no air pressure/flow is lost in the "grooves" of the lid (air allways takes easiest way "out") and maximize pressure towards the small holes leading air inside. 5. Added a few cable holders + ties and there it is, working like a charm. RESULT Can feel the air blowing through all three exhausts, have yet to do a charge from low battery as the heat develops over time and then meassure exhaust temp. I do not think it will be very high as the heat was/is generated over a long time in a closed compartment (little jest energy per second, but a lot of energy in the long run) , so likely i will just feel a luke warm exhaust air, if even that, as the heat energy is removed instantly every time slice and is likely a lot less than what this simple convection cooling csn hsndle. A.k.a. it should be more than enough to kepp things chill :-)
  2. Link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2477689168956057/ My Gotway MSX (84V) Battery Repair Journey Background: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2465864426805198?sfns=mo As stated previously, I came back from a one week holiday and encountered an issue with my Gotway MSX. I realised my battery was depleting very fast despite starting my ride with a full charge. Turns out my battery has an issue and was unable to reach the full charge of 83.7V(as indicated by my own voltmeter). It was able to charge to 79.4V and my stock charger would turn green indicating full charge. Using my 3A and 5A charger did not “continue” the charge as well(both green lights), which meant all my chargers were functioning. This would only mean that one cell probably died somewhere, since the difference was almost 4.2V, the typical full charge of a 18650 cell. As I pondered what to do, either riding it as it is and risk deteriorating the battery further, or importing a brand new 20S3P 800wh pack for S$900(US$650), I realised I should check with the many reputable battery builders in Singapore. As you know, we have a lot of escooters in Singapore, and there are some people out there who have been making batteries since eons ago. I decided to go with Xoda, a custom battery builder in Singapore who has experience in building custom batteries way before we got into electric unicycles. I dropped him a message and, despite his busy schedule, he told me to just walk in anytime. When I arrived at 1100hrs, he got to work straight away diagnosing my pack even though it’s his first time working with an EUC battery. He found that one cell had indeed died and affected the surrounding cells, so 3 cells had to be replaced. It was a good thing he has Panasonic/Sanyo GA cells in stock as well. He proceeded to remove the BMS and remove the affected cells. Did a quick charge of the 3 new cells before repeating the process in reverse. Using nickel to spot weld the cells back together. Then he helped to put my pack together and gave it a new heat shrink wrap in black and then a final full charge of the whole pack. It took 1.5hrs for him to do everything and hand me back my battery pack. Back home, the first thing I did was to charge the unaffected pack on the other side of my wheel first before connecting my repaired pack. Once it was almost full, I connected back the repaired pack and reassembled my wheel cover and pedals. Then I used my stock charger to continue the charge of both packs. This is one of those times where I’m glad Singapore is a small country and glad that we have people who have the experience and know how to fix things at short notice, no matter how niche a market may be. I started my day at 10am, did a bunch of stuff, had lunch, and was ready to go wheeling by evening for a sumptuous dinner with my friends A big thanks to those who gave valuable advice along the way, notably Mathias Gran and Marty Backe
  3. Hi, i recently bought a V10 but the charger is not doing it’s job. Just looking for someone around with a V10 charger so that i can try to charge and se whether it is a charger or battery issue. I live in Perth. Thanks guillaume
  4. Hi guys, as some of you may know, I recently did a small DIY project to make a fast charger adaptor for my impending KS16X I ride a Gotway MSX however and didnt have a chance to test the adaptor because there arent many ks18L/XL in my group. Most of us ride gotways or kingsong wheels with the usual GX16 port. Today i had a chance to test the adaptor on a friend's KS18L. However when it was plugged in at the Lenovo end to the wheel(the other end NOT plug to any charger), there was no reading on the voltmeter. Turning on the wheel and plugging in again had no effect as well. Now im pretty sure the polarity on my adaptor is correct as i followed the diagram on the back on the KS18XL charger, and it was also tested using a multimeter. My question is, are kingsong wheels built such a way that i cannot get a reading just by plugging in the voltmeter even if the wheel is turned on? But if the other end is plugged to a charger and then the lenovo end is plugged to the wheel, then a current flows and i have a reading on the voltmeter.
  5. Question: I'm thinking about getting the gol' darnest best charger I've ever seen to baby my MSuper's battery pack -- the Satiator model 7205, as seen at https://www.ebikes.ca/product-info/cycle-satiator.html but there's a problem: there appears to be no proper factory-made cable-adaptor to attach the generic end of the Satiator cable to my EUC. Yeah, this is a prime example of a first-world problem. Unfortunately, servicing these real boutique gagets, even here in the States, appears to require extra effort! Nevertheless, anyone have any ideas or source to recommend? My email address: stevereno7777@gmail.com Thanks!
  6. Hi - I use a rapid charger, with settings from 1 to 5 amps, and various percentages 50 to 100% My settings are 1 amp, 100%. My problem is that the charger doesn't shut off. Usually I'll plug in around 80% and I've left it on for over 10 hours waiting for the unit to shut off after a complete charge... The display by then usually reads: V: 84 A: .004 Is this a problem with the charger? The V10F shows 100% after just a few hours...but I'm wondering if I should leave the charger on longer or simply get in the habit of unplugging after awhile. Or get another charger... Thanks!
  7. (16/03/2019 updates in progress) Hello After more than a year working on my blog about the Mini, I decided a few days ago to monetize my blog, it reached more than 11,400 visitors from 115 countries. By joining affiliate programs with resellers, I choose spare parts and accessories for the Mini. I try to pay attention to quality even if it is difficult. I would touch a small percentage of a sale made, which will perhaps allow me to improve my blog, will see, I start with these programs. https://mini-j.jimdo.com/shop-guide/ It is therefore in total transparency that I announce the creation of a new site attached to my blog, called "Mini-J-S-G" (for the entire title: mini-j shopping guide) (cancelling) jojo33
  8. I sold a year old Inmotion V5F which worked amazingly for 2 years /1,000 miles commuting to work and putting it in my closet. Bought a new a SoloWheel Glide 2. Every time I charge, at around 75-80% the charger gets extremely hot and starts making a high-pitched noise which I assumed was an overheat alarm or could also be some type of whine. Customer support at eWheels is claiming this is normal...... For a test I put a fan on the charger during the entire cycle to keep it cool and surprisingly no funny noises from the charger. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it an issue with the charger overheating, or just a funny noise?
  9. Hello All! Patiently awaiting delivery of the V10 🤞 (yay) ... In the interim, I've been doing a bit of research on charging options. I understand the supplied charger takes approximately 5 hours to recharge from empty. However, I've seen talk online of so called "fast-chargers" that can reduce this time downwards. Can anyone offer any advice/guidance on this front, particularly relating to the V10? I've struggled to find any definite answers, a lot of talk around Gotways but nothing concrete for the Inmotion. I've seen talk around 4V/5V chargers but it's a little beyond me if I'm honest right now. Really appreciate any advice, guidance, links etc and particularly what type of charging time someone could expect if such a charger exists. Thanks all! 😄
  10. I recently found out that I could not fully charge my V8 using the original factory default 84V 1.5A charger. The charger light always turns green while the battery indicator on V8 is still blinking. Tried few different experiments using Charge Doctor Voltage output with 3 different chargers: Charger A - my oldest charger, about 15 - 16 months usage, indicates 79.8V - 79.9V. Charger B - about 6 months usage, indicates 80.5V - 80.6V. Charger C - about 3 months usage, indicates 81V. I have never really noticed the Voltage while they were brand new though. Are they supposed to be exact 84V showing on Charge Doctor? Could anyone with V8 and Charge Doctor confirm please? What is wrong with these? Which components are failing/aging and need to be replaced? Is it normal for chargers to have output voltage drops overtime like this? I believe I have always taken good care of them.
  11. Few days ago the power button on my V5F+ started misbehaving. At first my light would switch on and off while riding, then I had to hold the button for longer than usual to turn the wheel on/off and finally it wouldn't turn on or off at all. Anyone had this problem? Could it be just a button or the problem is in the control board? At the same time, while trying to diagnose the wheel in my garage, I was stupid enough to leave the charger on the roof of my car and forgot about it. Charger ended up in pieces, falling off the roof of my car while driving Could anyone please suggest where to buy spare charger for V5 in Europe?
  12. KingSong KS18L owners in the USA looking for a extra charger can get them here on ebay. I had several people contacting my about buying an extra charger so they could make use of their dual charging ports but I have been too busy and was only able to get to a couple of you. KS18L specific chargers can be purchased on eBay or at http://www.tec-toyz.com http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=323471539614&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111
  13. Got tired of carrying around the bulky charger to charge on the go on trips. So I had an idea to wire the charger internally, charging with the same 4-pin plug but off a 110v into the charger. Also solving the problem with battery power at the charging port .
  14. 4 pin Radwerkstatt 84v 10amp Charger (200 - 240v) (7 X Speed) for Gotway. In excellent working condition. Please note the charging look needs to be rewired with cables suitable of carrying the 10amp load and above.
  15. Hi Guys, Do you know if there are any portable chargers for EUC batteries with a Turbine or Pedal ? There are already portable chargers for mobile phones. I think it would be a great solution in emergency cases. Here is one example for mobile phones:
  16. Hi, I'm new to this website and I need help with my IPS 191 I remember that I charged my EUC last week and tonight when turned it on, it started to beep constantly. The battery must be full as the green light won't blink. It sounds like the time when you crash and it suddenly starts to beep and flash lights! Has anyone experienced this problem? I own a Llohtz IPS 191 which I purchased last December and It has been lightly used since. (50miles on the mileage) The app connects but shows no battery whatsoever! Unfortunately, the charger light shows green as soon as I plug that in. So, I'm confused...! Is it the charger or I'm going to have to investigate it further? I just don't know where to start. tnx
  17. So I have finally had time to mess around with my charge doctor and wanted to to a baseline charge log from what the V8 considers empty (tiltbact and shutdown) to full charge. I sat up last night waiting for the charge to complete and the currrent to drop to 0 and it seemed to take forever. I ended up going to bed and leaving it. I woke up this morning and the charger was still trickling 0.03A into the wheel. Looking at the Charge Doctor website the inventor mentions that his Firewheel charger did this and it is well known that Li-Ion should have the charge stopped unpon completion. Trickle charges are not good for the cells. I've attached the charging graph below. Is this normal? I wondered if the parasitic draw of the Charge Doctor could be fooling the charger to keep the power flowing but another chart of a Gotway wheel by the invetor shows a clear cut off of power from the charger. Anyone care to enlighten me what is going on here. Is this OK. Is this bad. Background: This is the first time I have logged a charge with the Charge Doctor. I'm going to do it twice with the 1.5A charger and twice with the eWheels fast charger to learn when and how (V or A) to set the Charge Doctor auto-shutoff for each charger (as the curve and constant current/constant voltage transition will move) so I get the charge level and depth of discharge I want. I will post the results when I have them and expect to repeat this in 6 months to gauge battery wear. Additional Info: The light on the charger LED did turn green just before the charge doctor showed 0.05A but it appeared to have no effect on the output.
  18. Hi everyone, I'm new to the EUC world and recently got an X8 to try out. I was reading the instructions and noticed that they say to plug the charger into the X8 first before plugging the charger into the wall. This is the first time I've ever seen this sequence for a battery charger, so I became curious as to what the difference is between Airwheel's steps versus plugging the battery charger into the wall first and then plugging it into the wheel. Anybody know why this might be? Thanks in advance for any help/advice!
  19. I'm not having luck with chargers it seems. The one in the box was DOA, and the replacement seems to be overheating. I'd only ever charged it from ~60% at the lowest, but today I got down to 30%. Plugged it in and about an hour later it starts making a really high pitched whine. The app is reporting it as 98% charged now, but the power brick is crazy hot. Measured it with an IR thermometer and it read 70 C. That was after 5 minutes or so unplugged, so it could have easily been 75+ when it started whining. Anyone else experienced a crazy hot power brick? I should probably just get an aftermarket one at this point. I'm not sure what works well and safely. As much as I like the V8, the geoblocking and these chargers issues are bringing me close to saving up for another wheel.
  20. Hi, Yesterday had a crazy idea I'm going around in my head with the possibility to charge my Gotway MSuper V3S 1300Wh 84v quicker as it takes 12h approximately. I saw a video while ago from Speedyfeet with a splitter so we can plug 2 chargers in to one GX-16 4pin port (charge connector of this wheel). After looking to the options I find at almost 150€ the 5A fast charger from speedyfeet an a 70€ 3A charger in Aliexpress, both options are expensive. I just remembered that the charger from my other wheel ( Inmotion V8) also is 84v and 1.5A exactly the same as the gotway MSuper V3S, only difference is the the V8 is 3 Pin while MSuper is 4 Pin and since I found here in this forum yesterday thanks to @esaj what type of connectors are used. I ordered 2 sets (male/female) of 4pin and 3pin so I can do a Y connection to plug the 2 chargers and just one female output GX16-4pin to get then 3A charger and reduce charging time to half (6h) but if needed can still do a full slow charge. Just need to get were + and - for each charger and the MSuper to make everything go smooth without explosions ? and sparks ⚡️ Question to the experts, do you see any inconvenient in doing this? Thanks
  21. Hey guys, Just found this forum and joined up. I've been an Airwheel X8 for nearly 2 years now. I recently had an issue with my X8. I plugged it up to the charger, correctly, and the light on the charger stayed green (wouldn't charge). I figured that a wire came loose so I opened it up. There didn't seem to be anything out of place so I ordered a new charger. The new charger seemed to do the trick. I tried to turn it on to test it to see if it fully charged, while still disassembled, and the wheel went crazy and jerked out several wires. I think that I got everything hooked back up correctly except for 2 wires. There is a purple and pink wire that start near the capacitors. They have connectors on the end that I assume plug into a connector that leads to the on/off button. The button has a white and red wire going out of the connecter and into it. I really don't want to screw it up so does anyone have a picture of this connection or know if it goes Pink to red, purple to white or vise versa? Please help, I need to cycle! I'm having issues uploading the pictures but I can email one if you think that it will help
  22. Hey Community, today i wanted to charge my MCM4. I plugged in the charger and he instantly lit up green not red. strange... I turned power on and off several times and measured the voltage on the plug. There are only 54V ... not the needed 67,2 Is there a solution how this could be fixed or do i need a complete new charger? thanks
  23. Hobby Wheel Gadget Factory is proud to present the "Charge Doctor", specifically designed to survey the monowheels' batteries. It's in fact an off-the-shelf USB charge monitor I have hacked and reprogrammed for our use. Specifications Voltage 40.0V - 80.0V Current 0.00 - 3.00A mAh-meter 0-19999 mAh Energy meter 0-999.9 Wh Serial data output for logging at 9600 bauds TTL levels With 3-pin GX16 connectors compatible with Airwheel & clones, TG, iezWay, Gotway, Firewheel... (not on Ninebot One with a different charge plug) Plug & play Price 15€ + 4€ international shipping = 19€, Paypal payment to User instructions First line: voltage and current. Second line: total charge in mAh or Wh, click pushbutton (PB) to alternate between mAh and Wh. Hold PB for 2 s to reset the total charge. PB also enables calibration of the Charge Doctor (see below). Data logger Charge Doctor sends out data every 10s in ascii line format with ',' separator, at 9600 bauds, TTL level Line format: Time (seconds), voltage (0.1V), current (10mA), Wh (0.1Wh) Example: 590,596,193,183 <=> 590seconds, 59.6V, 1.93A, 18.3Wh Data are sent to a PC, MAC or Linux using TTL serial-USB converter dongle (cost < 2 $) and a terminal emulator for disk storage or graphic display (see below for a setup example). Look up "CP2102 USB converter" or "CH340G USB converter" on eBay (avoid PL2303HX chip based dongles which work fine but rather pricky when installing driver). Calibration Voltage is factory (ie by me) calibrated at +-20mV and current at +-2mA. Recalibrate when necessary only if you have an accurate multimeter. Press & hold the pushbutton (PB) for more than 6 s when the second counter is at the corresponding number : 1: decrease voltage gain (about 0,02V per PB click, so you must click 5x to see the number change) 2: increase voltage gain 3: decrease current gain (about 2mA per click) 4: increase current gain 5: reset current offset = 0 (no load) The variable to be calibrated flashes and the change direction is indicated by the display's up or down arrows. The calibration mode ends after 10s of no PB click. Lastest batch of Charge Doctors. Thank you Ironfox for being the first international buyer and for ordering 4 (four !) of them. Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1676.jpg Charge Doctor display, charging a 260Wh empty battery. 1) beginning: V=60.2V, I=2.11A, Charge=29.1Wh 2) near end: V=67.1V, I=0.4A, Charge=230.8Wh 3) end of charge: V=67.1V, I=0.0A, Charge=243.4Wh Notice that it's a generic wheel (TG) battery with Chinese cells, so total charge is only only 243.4Wh, the nameplate "260 Wh capacity" cannot be reached. On the Firewheel 260Wh, with Panasonic cells, I can charge up to 285 Wh. Charge Doctor - PC link using a Serial-USB converter dongle, data logging by terminal emulator puTTY. Only two connexions of the dongle are used: 0V and RxD Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1580.jpg Serial link : blue=0V, orange=Transmit (connect to dongle's RxD) Zoom image : http://googledrive.com/host/0BxMfsstZ1EMcfkYzSzFmTVRHZGg5UzUwQjlqbk1wTzJTNjJiMG9wRWRKdVZlMnlEbGVqZkE/chargedr/DSCN1582.jpg More images on the French forum : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/ftopic1000-0.html
  24. Hi All - This is regarding a TG-T3. So I was out tooling around on a low battery, got the tire in some broken sidewalk and had a minor crash due to lack of power (no speed, just jumped off, was right after a stop sign, walking speed or less). I guess my kids had wrecked some time previously harder, and the battery side panel popped and battery (hanging on wires) fell out. It wasn't a fast or hard crash, so I figured no big deal, put the battery in, snapped the panel on, and rode home. I put the charger on, and next day was 'green light' on the charger. However the wheel only showed one red (where it was when I plugged it in). I figured the wheel must be not displaying correctly, rode a couple blocks to the store, and got a full battery fail on the way back. Battery fail on TG-T3 is flashing lights, lots of beeping, slow tiltback, and wheel stops. Not dangerous at all. Anyway, it's obvious that there was no charging done. I put it back on the charger, and the charger light just stays green, it doesn't turn red as it usually does when charging. Nor does the charger whine (it usually does) nor does the fan come on. Simple enough to drop $20 on a new charger, I just want to check in and make sure consensus is that the wheel is ok. I am worried because I did have that little crash and did get the battery hanging out. of course it ran fine, so I suspect the charger quite a lot. I have a multimeter, but the charger isn't going into 'load' mode, so I doubt I'll see any voltage on it. If you know how to make it go into load I can go check the charger. Any help appreciated! Thanks.
  25. Hi all- I was so delighted with myself today -- we've had terrible weather for a few days, so I haven't gotten to practice. This morning I managed to make some tight circles and figure eights for the first time, and was feeling like I'm really improving. When I got home, the app said I was at about 35%, which seemed right, so I decided to charge it. I have charged it once before, from 40%, with no problems. I went to plug it in and the red light simply wouldn't come on - only green. I wiggled things a bit and it still wouldn't come on. Then, I came to this forum (which I should have done first, instead of wiggling), and saw the kinds of problems people have had with the pins breaking off and so on. So I peered at my connector and the port on the Ninebot and nothing has broken off, but one of the pins looked bent. I used tweezers to try and bend it back but still can't seem to plug it in and get a red light. I guess I need to write to my distributor and try and get some help or perhaps even cough up for a replacement but any further advice? One of the things about my charger that is odd is that I would imagine I am supposed to align the line on the grey connector with the little divot in the charging port ... but if I do that, the pins are completely not aligned with the holes. It's almost like someone put the grey part on askew. Very sad - we are heading into 3 days of gorgeous weather.
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