meepmeepmayer

Yes, I read that too! I hope it's not true and they just rode fast. Marty needs to do a range test. Did the original C40 motors of the EX and Monster Pro (before thy went back to their usual C30/C38) also come with higher batter usage?

This wheel looks so much better without the ugly-ass foam pad thing! Even if the ugly-ass foam pad thing protects the batteries. Hard choices. Maybe there will be a good alternative (3D-printed hard plastic thing) that protects those too-low (are Begode blind?) battery box outer lower corners but looks better. Now someone please tell those manufacturers (Inmotion excluded, they figured it out) that battery boxes don't have to be rectangular. Each cell row is shifted by 1/2 cell width anyways for better space packing. That lends itself to a nice 45 degree angle for making shield-shaped batteries. You can have low batteries and no low corners at the same time! Professional ilustration: Cells in shifted rows (random picture from here):

Where did you buy from? If it's from ewheels or a similarly reputable dealer, you can trust them. And you can always ask the seller how you can check (if you can - not sure). It's totally expected that the manual says 1110Wh, that's just the standard manual. In the world of EUCs, it's a miracle to get anything resembling a manual at all. You certainly cannot expect a custom manual for a dealer-provided variant (I don't think KS themselves offer alternative batteries). So that means nothing.

Split off from the T4 thread because this isn't about the T4.

It would be a Master with a smaller tire. Which isn't a bad idea! Big batteries shouldn't be exclusive to big tire wheels! Less than 2400Wh is tricky with 134V wheels. Voltage and battery size (both Wh and literal physical size) are connected. Having a 134V battery means either 2400Wh (like the Master) or some not very attractive compromises - having to use higher discharge cells which have less capacity but still need the same space and weigh the same as regular cells (or cost more), dividing an uneven number of battery packs between the two sides of the wheel = complicates construction, smallish resulting battery capacity - which make it rather unlikely that Begode would build it like that imo. 2400Wh and up is no problem, they just need to slap on bigger batteries. I think there's enough space to enlarge each pack by 50% and not have them them be too big or heavy for this wheel.

This is a good point. A EUC goes where you look, and if you look at the ground, that's where you'll go Standing straight (and relaxed) and looking forward is best.

Get a lot of yoga mats so you can thoroughly wrap your nice and shiny new wheel for the first few weeks of learning! That's when it will get all the scruffs. Don't start with attempting low speed maneuvers. Speed stabilizes you. Just get on with the help of a wall/pole and start by going straight and not too slow (15-20kph is fine! Walking speed or twice that is too slow to be stable.). Everything else - slower riding, stepping on, ... - comes later, because it is more difficult. Don't try to learn on grass. If you don't want to take your (heavily yoga-matted) wheel to asphalt, find a tennis court-like surface. But it should be a hard, smooth surface with little rolling resistance. Don't try to catch the wheel when it falls. Especially with such a heavy wheel. I'd be worried about unlucky injuries there. Just get yourself to safety and trust your yoga mats to do the rest. I think you can get away with wrist guards only for learning, but of course wear more protective gear if it doesn't bother you anyways. Power pads or not, trust your intuition on what looks to make more sense to you. Enjoy! You can only learn to ride once, and it's a lot of fun.

New questions: Are there nonlinear shocks? Could you do an electromagnetic shock? Maybe even with adjustable/programmable resistance curve? Ideally with no/low power use. Would be cool to set the suspension in the app and have one (or two) otherwise no-maintenance shock(s).

That's a good argument! If shock-only has a glass ceiling kind of limitation, we might end up with linkage suspensions winning out long term.

Thanks, everyone! So as I understand it (and read a bit about linkage), they allow for fine-tuning the suspension resistance curve from the mostly linearly behaving shocks. So you can have a more sophisticated suspension if it's done right. I'm surprised you guys prefer linkage from a maintenance standpoint. You'd think shock-only would be seen as better there? Less parts and all? Anyways, the real critical part seem to be the sliders, and both suspension mechanisms depend on those, right? So I guess the wheel and its particular implementation seem to count more than what type of suspension it has (with the wheels right now!), though a good linkage system seems to be the best in theory.

Locked motor = your board fried (shorting the motor, which locks it) and you need a new board. Your seller will surely help you with this.

See title. Which one is better? Marty said in a video (forgot which one) that he thinks the rising rate linkage approach is better. Is there a reason for this? Does it depend on the implementation? Can the linkage do something the shocks alone cannot? I do like the simplicity and robustness of the shock-only designs, so I'm wondering if there is a good reason for one or the other. Linkage suspension has the linkage in the back of the wheel, where one shock sits, providing the suspension action. Example wheels are the EX30, Master, T4, S22. A shock alone suspension has two suspension shocks directly between the motor+tire assembly and the rest of the wheel. Example wheels are the Sherman-S, Commander Pro, V13, V11 (a little different but fundamentally the same approach). (Sherman-S without battery packs)

Full voltage is 84V. Looks pretty good to me.

Videos of this generic wheel are 8 years old. That's actually quite impressive for how early that is. But I think it's safe to say this company didn't make it.

If anybody knows if this a feature of the forum software or a custom thing they did, please tell!

This is a fantastic mod. Even looks better than the S18 I think - tire size and rest of shell match better. Makes one wonder what the King Song people are doing all the time!

Ali gives me 3500-3600€ for the Commander Pro from Germany. Sherman-S is 3700-4700€ (???). Not sure how that will translate to local (EU) seller prices, but it looks like the Commander Pro might not be too expensive. Let's see.

Any ideas about the price? I'm seeing the Sherman-S for 4500€ (too much for me!) and the EX30 for 3700€ (pretty ok, given the market), so I'm wondering where the Commander Pro will end up in this trio.

I hope the wheel is good now and KS don't have to rename it a third time

That is.... weird. Some loose connection going on somewhere, or unwanted electrical connection? And pushing on the shell moves a cable/connector somewhere? Ask your seller (ewheels because of Molicel?) what they think of that. Maybe it's just a board error and you should get a new board? Better safe than sorry.

Here's the linked post as a quote: That means cell balancing on the V13 should be assured and everything is good Just charge to full (charger stops) and then keep the charger in for a bit regularly.

You can try any of the various EUC groups and ask if someone wants to help you learn. Tons of people in California who can help you: If San Francisco isn't too far, they are offering paid lessons here https://pev.works/training , which is associated with Alien Rides (reputable dealer): https://alienrides.com/pages/about-us. I'm sure there are moreopportunities, this is what I know about

Power pads are the obvious approach. If it turns out that they don't work for you, maybe a T4 ("16" incher with suspension) or V12 ("16" incher without suspension) would be more fun to ride for you? Nothing beats a smaller tire diameter (S18 is "18" inches) if you want the wheel to react faster. [Numbers in quotes because they aren't actually that in reality, but smaller is smaller anyways.]

Or reduce the price to 3600 (or less)! One 3600 should be in there somewhere

Hi and welcome to the forum! I changed your title so it is clear that you are looking for lessons