meepmeepmayer

Not my video. Car guy makes another MSX video. He likes it!

It's something like that. @Marty Backe can tell the exact number.

You can add your wheel (electric unicycle, EUC) or wheels to your profile. Just like your location, it will be shown next to each post (at least in Desktop view). Like this: Together with your (even just approximate) location, this is the most important info about you, so you're encouraged to add it. Do it even if you have no wheel but an upcoming one - How to add your wheel(s): On mobile: tap the "hamburger" icon (3 lines) in the top right corner -> account ->profile, and on the profile page tap the "pen" icon (see picture) to edit your profile. Add your wheels in the "EUC" field and tap "Save" at the bottom. On Desktop: Click your username in the top right corner and select "profile". On your profile page, click on "edit profile" (it is on the top right). Add your wheels in the "EUC" field and click "Save". Also please keep your profile up-to-date. It's confusing to talk with someone about a wheel when the profile doesn't say anything about the wheel. Be proud of your nice new ride! Thank you!

There's two components you can overpower: The motor, specifically the motor torque. This is strictly dependent on the speed. The motor has a speed where it has zero torque (the lift speed if you lift the wheel and let it run freely) and the torque goes linearly down to that. So the faster you are, the lower the available torque is. If it's lower than what you demand (like from a sudden pothole at speed), boom. The "80%" 3rd alarm (5 beeps - which is just a battery dependent speed alarm, as this thread showed) seems to be derived from the motor torque limitations. The top "lift" speed also depends on the battery charge (voltage really) so the 3rd alarm goes lower with lower battery. For reference, the Tesla lift speed is something like 70kph (guess). Unless you're very heavy (you're definitely not at 67kg) the 3rd alarm should very reliably warn you if you get too close to the motor limitations. A ton of people heavier than you (Marty included) ride with the 3rd alarm only and without problems. The battery. That mainly applies to small (2p or 1p) or very empty batteries. I think overleaning a 4p or bigger battery (like the Tesla) is extremely unlikely (unless you try). Especially on Gotways, which are still quite full at "0%", you'll have a really hard time overwhelming the battery. (I guess the combination of dropping voltage from a quick acceleration/pothole and running into the motor limitation at high speed can also occur, but I'd put that under motor limitation aggravated by the voltage drop.) Most overleans you hear of seem to be high speed motor torque overleans (= people over the official top speed of the wheel), and I guess some people are running into #3 (heavier people or small batteries plus some strong acceleration). As always, one can overlean any wheel by being crazy enough. Just don't do that 50kph is the official top speed and also the 3rd alarm speed at 100% battery (see Jason's post on page 1 - goes down to 39kph at 10% but there the low battery beeps already slowed you down). While I wouldn't go faster, you will be fine at it with your weight. Just never ignore the 3rd alarm if you hear it and use it as a guide for where the wheel's limits are (if you hear it at x kph, then a pothole or quick acceleration at x-2 kph is probably a bad idea). Looking at the numbers, 40kph seems like a no-brainer perfectly safe speed. The real danger at this speed really are non-technical crash reasons like that obstacle you didn't see This came up just recently: click. You can be perfectly safe with essentially only the 3rd alarm. Yes. Don't ignore your (possibly) only alarm. See above for the details. No. Tons of Tesla riders, no notable reported issues in comparison to other wheels. No. No non-misleading ones. The important thing: no brand wheel (Gotway or otherwise) is even remotely known for just cutting out mid-ride for no good reason. Otherwise nobody would ride it. - You seem to doubt the safety of riding a Gotway. To be safe, a wheel needs two things: Never cut out from sudden unexpected hardware failure. Wheels that people ride, Gotways/Tesla included, don't do that. Be as strong as possible. The stronger (higher top speed and bigger battery), the safer. The Tesla is much stonger than your KS (or the 16S for example), so it is much safer. Simple as that (Some people include their own behavior under safety. E.g. no forced tiltback at top speed or something counts as "unsafe". But that is about self-control, not technical safety.) The Tesla is perfectly safe for you. Especially you (always envious of the range lighter people will get).

See inline text. That Ron guy just thought it is a good idea to test the top speed of a wheel. Which can only end in one way. Beeps are there for a reason, and even then they are no absolute guarantee which is something a rider should be aware of (but unless you are very heavy or ride like crazy, the beeps are a perfectly good warning system)..

Don't overthink it and post where you want. Here or otherwise. Worst case, everything can be moved

It might make sense to ship a wheel without batteries so the heavy part is a normal package, and ship the batteries separately. At least if you want to follow all the rules. Still think those insane prices can't be right. - By pretending it's a normal package and not something with Li ion batteries? Did you ever see those standard battery stickers/labels on the shipping box? Do Jason's boxes have them? Wheel boxes from Ali? Plus bulk pricing for those "regular" packages. $100 for a 25kg package seems normal. My guess how everyone does it The full list I found: UN 3480 Li ion batteries alone UN 3481 Li ion batteries built into a device or packaged with a device UN 3090 Li metal batteries alone UN 3091 Li metal batteries built into a device or packaged with a device ("Battery" means an assembled pack, not loose cells. There might be some other rules for those.) I believe "our" EUC batteries count as UN 348X. There also seem to be two different labels and you have to use the one for >100Wh. The >100Wh one (applies to both UN 348X and 309X): Nobody hold me to that

There will be specific rules for Lithium ion batteries, so there should be no ambiguity. These prices are absurd that can't be right.

Awesome, great pictures! I love seeing cityscapes and infrastructure like this, especially from the other side of the world. Thank you! That V10 cover looks really nice Other manufacturers ar stupid not to offer covers for their wheels.

It really looks like the wheel is building up to these crazy oscillations as soon as you start riding. I'm not sure the cracks are enough for that. They seem very minor. But maybe it's enough? For these oscillations to start due to the cracks, the board would have to be loose (moving against the motor/pedal bracket/pedal assembly) and be able to wobble a bit (and then it amplifies the wobbling into this crazy shaking). How loose is the board? Is there any way to tell if these cracks allow the shell to move against the pedal brackets+pedals+motor assembly? Or maybe the board isn't firm in the shell in some other way Did you ever try if the wheel does the same if you push it instead of ride it? If there's differences when you have weight on the pedal bracket (where the cracks are) and when you have not, that would point towards the cracks being the reason. If there's no difference... I don't know. Does the wheel go into the same shaking if you switch it on and keep it still and balanced on the spot (but you don't move it which might start the oscillation)? Does the wheel go into the same shaking if you move it back and forth (pendulum) on the spot? Maybe you can find some behaviors that illuminate the situation...

@US69 Are you guessing about the 2100Wh, or are you absolutely sure and have a source?

What safety gear are you wearing? Because right after the "This is hard..." phase comes the "I can ride!" success phase but you really aren't ready for unexpected stuff yet (like having to brake suddenly) so it's a dangerous time. I learnt that first hand and have a tiny scar on my shin to prove it (you don't need shin protection though). The trick (in general) is to wear gear before having a crash that convinces you you should have worn (more) gear. I've been quite lucky with my first crash (the rubbed through winter gloves convinced me I really needed wrist guards but my hands were fine because it happened to be winter) and less lucky with my second crash (convinced me to wear knee guards, but that knee scar won't go away from that) and I figured I should wear a full face helmet before regretting not wearing one. Trying to convince myself of elbow guards currently... one day I'll get some... eventually That wouldn't work. The EUC must follow a weight shift. No weight shift, it can do nothing productive except stand still. But essentially riding a EUC feels like mind control already. Try a lighter EUC that reacts more directly when you can, I'd be really interested what you think about it. What ride mode are you using?

@Dave U can't get his 2100Wh Nikola and open it fast enough! I want to know what is going on Will the 84V Nikola always be with white stripes and the board on top? Or will it become a "Plus" in all-black and have the board on the side, like the 100V? How exactly is the battery configuration of the 2100Wh, and where exactly are the battery packs? I don't understand why they do this strange thing with two small batteries on the sides (if that picture is still up to date), instead of putting the board on the side and just putting one standard Tesla battery in the now free top space. Weight balance? Is the 2100Wh some strange battery config? WHY? What happened to Jason? MIA approaching two weeks now (at least here). He might be able to answer a lot of these questions. He must be in a week month of hell, hope he is fine. Why does this wheel stuff have to be like Kremlinology, where all you can do is guess based on uncertain info? Do they not want to make it easy for people to know about and buy their wheels?

Thank you! Yes you're right, I finally need a wheel that can actually do the mountain tours I want(ed) to do in the first place instead of these flat-land substitute rides. I'm very much eyeing the current Nikola developments (2100Wh version and coming mountain tests) and am looking at the 16X as well. You've lived in Germany? Most of the noise is the road, but if you listen closely you can hear the beer bottles clinking (right word?). Maybe it helps you a bit

Zur Abwechslung schreibt mal jemand nicht nur was Vernünftiges, sondern 100% Vernünftiges zum Thema (in diesem Fall escooter). Man glaubt es kaum, es gibt noch (vereinzelt) Hirn im Land! https://www.spiegel.de/netzwelt/gadgets/wie-gelangen-wir-endlich-zur-e-scooter-gerechten-stadt-kolumne-a-1277730.html Und er nennt das Problem beim Namen: Autos.

Ride today. I thought it would be nice and cool but it ended up being hot like a Gotway glue board On the right: Maxlrain Castle, mainly known for its brewery which is in the center here. Note there's a smaller building left of each one, they will be identified soon. Castle Each castle needs it associated inn right next to it. That's the first smaller building. I wonder what the second could be... The brewery. Hard to photograph, but you can watch the conveyor belt moving the beer bottles by in the window. Of course the brewery needs is associated inn and, naturally and most importantly, beer garden! That's the real attraction in this place. In addition to the usual Bavarian meats, note the guy is grilling another typical specialty: Steckerlfisch (fish on a wooden stick). Today it was surprisingly empty. This place is packed with both locals and tourists at the right times. Behind the brewery, some nice rural scenery and a patch of forest I crossed. The area is quite swampy courtesy of the last ice age. You an see the typical bog water color. This little froggie escaped my proximity by drifting with the current away from me, without moving. Nice trick. Some more scenes after the forest. I had to cut the ride short a bit because my batteries aren't what they used to be (or maybe my tire pressure was very low, I enjoyed some unexpected but very welcome cushy bouncyness of my beloved Chao Yang tire). On the way home along the river path. The end. Thanks to certain the no-photo complainers which made me take pictures

My evil plan has been thwarted In seriousness, while I've never sold a wheel, your buyer (if you decide to sell it) will get a nearly brand-new Nikola with an extra spare board (after the replacement operation and a bit of glue removal). I'd say original price minus $200 would be fair. My guess.

If I weren't on the wrong continent (once again... US always gets such nice used wheel sales), I'd have scammed @zenleetech out of his nearly brand-new Nikola already. "What, the glue-board, first-batch Nikola and I'd still have to put in the new board? That's worth at most $500. I'm going to give you $600 because I'm nice but that's a stretch already." [DON'T BELIEVE THAT ZENLEE] (Unfortunately I might also be too nice for that.) Alas the tyranny of geography...

That's definitely true. A EUC needs your constant undivided attention where you're going. It is not forgiving in that respect. So if you're distracted or focusing on something else... The same applies to a scooter with its small wheels which can get stuck or sidetracked by small obstacles. Maybe it's even worse overall than the EUC - hardware failure is not the consideration, just not seeing or being able to see an obstacle, and EUCs at least have much bigger tires. The ebike is going to be a lot more robust in that respect. @Rywokast I think the biggest problem on bigger wheels might actually be the slow acceleration. A nimble and zippy wheel is just going to feel much nicer to learn on. The Nikola, combined with its high weight, is maybe too sluggish to quickly feel safe on. @Marty Backe In totally unrelated news, I just started my own ebike shop under ebikesarebetterthaneucs.com!

Trust your gut on this one. If you feel safer or more relaxed on an ebike, get one instead! Just give the EUC a fair chance. Maybe the Nikola really is a bit too big and unwieldy for a beginner.

You should be able to edit your post now.

See here. You might be able to remove the rotor part of the motor after removing one of the side covers if it works like the Gotways. But that still leaves the question where you'd get a replacement part, because it is specific (has all the magnets). Probably you need to buy a new motor altogether. Ask Inmotion customer service or your original seller. It is also possible to bend back the rim with a bench vice if the damage isn't too bad and you're very careful. I managed to bend back a smaller deformation on my motor this way.

You tried and didn't enjoy it. Nothing wrong with it. Sell it (will probably be easy) and get a nice scooter or ebike.

Is it the EUC concept itself? Or are you just stressed by the entire repair and doubt aspect of your brand new and expensive yet problematic thing? Because the latter is completely normal! Coming to terms with a EUC is hard enough on its own. I had an issue about a month after I got my wheel and it was quite depressing to realize everything that meant. Can't imagine how it is if the issue were there right at the start, like it is with you, with the added stress of learning. Maybe I might have given up then? It is also common for riders to be very deflated and demotivated after a crash or another misfortune, so maybe you are in a similar position due to the complications. Psychologically one tends to have high highs and low lows with EUCs. If you're more on the side of currently being overwhelmed (or simply uncertain), you could wait til the Vegas meetup (3 weeks). Maybe someone can help you exchange the board then? You could take a break til then, and maybe someone will help you get better riding if that is what currently makes you doubt? A group ride will also definitely be a high point! If you really aren't happy with the thing in general, trust your gut and sell it and get something you can be happy with. No shame in it. Or maybe it's something else?

@Afeez Kay Well, I've been told otherwise (in private, you might be able to guess by whom) how "good" the concept of the 84V + 16.8V solution is and that the guy apparently didn't seem very knowledgable when asked some questions. I don't have the electrical knowledge to judge the build and say who is right and who is not (I only have third party info anyways, so I can't say exactly what happened). With all the crap the manufacturers are pulling, I'm just very sensitized about stuff like this where I'm not sure if it is good. (Your visit and video is still highly appreciated! Don't get me wrong. I didn't mean to seem hostile towards this mod or unappreciative of your efforts. But nothing is more frustrating to me than the perpetual uncertainty about the electronics of our wheels, and this is another case. Maybe I am too harsh here, I don't know. Sometimes I just wish for something that nobody can complain about.) - Anyways, this thread is about the 84V extended battery MSX where everything seems fine (Maybe even the 100V one is fine. Maybe not. I can't tell.) Here's the 100V extended battery MSX discussion for anyone who is interested: