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You don't live up to your username @Funky No recent wheel is good enough for you, I guess you will just have either to wait again, or make a compromise somewhere. But you spill your anger again and again. It's good to talk about what could be made, but boy you sound so angry and unsympathetic.

Re: Shinko 244 I forgot to mention it but I also removed the tire hairs on each side to avoid the hairs rubbing against the battery cases (which they did before removing), those little hairs are quite robust and can wreak havoc if they rub against parts over and over again at speed, same on the stock tire the Kenda 262 has quite long hairs and it's best to remove those or you can have some strong wear on parts they rub against. It's a pain in the ass to do but you only do it once and you can have some peace of mind.

Great information/feedback for others, as usual @Rawnei!

Yup!

I only post these crashes to show the other side to new riders and what it looks like. We all talk about wearing the gear and this explains why and how common it happens. They can have real consequences sometimes. It would be interesting to know what percentage of riders experience serious injury/ broken bones over say different time spans and in different age groups. Safe rides everyone!

So I fitted the Shinko 244 on my Lynx today and had my first cruise on it, 22.5km total, very tight fit but no rubbing at all for me, also when I installed it I put some soapy water and inflated it to 40 PSI and it popped into place, I checked centering after and it was perfectly centered both horizontally and vertically by itself after popping in place so didn't have to do anything else. Theory regarding rubbing, maybe some motors have too much offset to the side thus tire ends up closer to one side and will rub, I can see that happening since it's a very tight fit. Regarding the tire itself, I don't have experience with Shinko 244 from before so some initial impressions from someone who rides only Knobbys and actually like the Kenda 262: When turning it feels like a hybrid between knobby and street tire, it wants to stay upright rather than fall like the Kenda 262, CST-186 or the S22 Julier tire, I'm not used to it but I can get used to it and it does have an advantage when taking curves at higher speed. It felt very stable when doing tight turns at slower speeds. The knobs are more pronounced and you feel them a lot more than the Kenda 262, specially in slower speeds, this effect might become lesser over time as the tire wears down but it's very very pronounced on a new tire. Shinko 244 is louder than the Kenda 262, it also has a bit of a different angry bee sound, for me it doesn't matter but for someone looking for a quiet tire this is not it, the 241 should be a lot more quiet. I noticed some tramlining and other different behaviors that I can not put my finger on yet and which I am not used to, I will have to experiment more with that and get used to it before making conclusions, it's something I will have to keep in mind when off-roading and it might not match my muscle-memory. I have not done any actual off-roading yet as today was a pretty rainy day and everything is super wet and muddy but it felt good on varied terrain, will be interesting to test it in a real off-road scenario when things are more dry (I don't like mud). Other things I did with my Lynx today: Switched the oil seals in the shocks to SKF Showa 37mm, same as I did on my Sherman S and Patton and filled with new fresh 5W fork oil, without exaggerating this is an S tier upgrade for me, due to the minimal friction on the SKF seals the suspension becomes noticeably more smoother and they should last longer too. I also checked the motor screws and none of them were loose, LK had marked them with a marker pen in factory and all the lines aligned, interesting enough I also checked one of them with a torque wrench and they were only torqued to 15Nm which differs from the specification they have given us before which is 18Nm, I didn't torque them more since they seem to be holding up fine after 1200km of hard riding.

And you'll wish you'd worn a full face helmet when you're fumbling around looking for your lower jaw and teeth. Yes, I am an ambassador for wearing a full face helmet, I confess it. Bicycle helmets and the like are useless junk.

Voltage alarm default is 124V, it's safe to change it to 126V in display menu just take it seriously when it actually triggers. If you have early batch Patton (like batch 2-3) then you will fry the controller if you go above 127.5V, if you have later version Patton nothing will happen overcurrent goes into battery packs instead like every other wheel. If you trigger alarm you can also accelerate out of it.

What to do before, during and after a crash? Before - Wear appropriate gear to protect yourself. During - This will happen so fast, you won't see it coming faster than you can emergency pee. After - You wish you had your protective gear if you're still conscious.

Full face helmet. Always full face helmet. Wear full face helmet always. Full face or no face. Repeat: Full face helmet. Alw......

I wonder if they said that as a tongue-in-cheek way of making a disclaimer: "Your honor, we weren't actually going that fast, it was all CGI!"

Does anybody know, where to get spare charger for S16?

Hi I am struggling to understand of how to set it up correctly or adjust… On the EUC World anpp the angle of the wheel is already set at 45 degrees, it’s dimmed as well so I can’t change the value. The only option I have is the HIGH,MEDIUM,LOW limit. I have left it at LOW. Is it alright? Do I need to change that 45 value somehow as well please? Thanks for any help. Art.

When I start riding (fully charged wheel) on the display I can see "FULL" , there is no beep. I break very gently. Should i be worried about it ? I have newest firmware

Some random saying IP67.. My 18xl has IP68 rating. (Till first ride in lake, doesn't mean it will work afterwards..) Disassembly videos will show us how well it is protected against water/rain. FYI those rides in that video - some light rain doesn't count. I want real test, where it pours like buckets. Followed by disassembly video, showing us result. If people don't show aftermath of "water/rain" test - it means jack shit. Because any wheel will ride in rain. We need to see the insides after the test.

for exactly this reason, an accurate "percentage of remaining battery" algorithm would take into account this discharge curve and be far more accurate than just a linear percentage of the delta between minimum and maximum voltage. Thank you for strengthening my point!

the percentage is not a good tool because the discharge curve is exponential. I prefer to look at the voltage on the wheel. I know 108 volts is the limit where the wheel will cut. Which corresponds to 3 volts per cell, so a good safety margin given that the 50th can go down to 2.5. But for my daily commute, I use the 120/145 volt range.

This review gives some great dimension specs and confirms its IP Rating...

Baby steps. In my (long past) experience, the most important thing was to just get rolling. If you have to hold onto a fence or light post to launch and stop, then do it. You need to learn how to balance on the wheel when in motion first, then you can graduate to free-mounting.

IP65 Dust proof splash proof.

BTW, I forgot to add in my first post that you definitely want significant ankle protection. Something like a high-top lightweight boot IMO. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VX03PS/ Those are more like a heavy duty sneaker than a boot but the big key is the padded ankle protection. I bring this up because a pedal strike on your ankle is a real possibility and it will hurt like hell...

Yeah the height is a bit of a draw back with suspension wheels at first. I started off on non suspension wheels and with my first suspension wheel I first felt that it was a bit scary. That feeling didn't last long but still the height difference was appreciable.

Yeah it is sort of a controversial topic. I know in my case that using helper objects turned out to be a major time consuming handicap until I realized that every method I was trying to learn via was basically broken by me not getting the core skill of mounting while rolling forward / dismounting completely conquered. Oof that cost me so much time. :[

I should clarify that it also comes with a seat