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JZT-Colorado

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About JZT-Colorado

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    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado
  • EUC
    Nikola+, KS16X, V10F, OneWheel Pint and XR

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51 profile views
  1. The Nikola is probably better at night, with brighter and fancier lights.. plus BT speakers... so the Nikola is a better "party wheel." Any other situations where the Nikola is superior to the MSX?
  2. Are there any riding situations where the MSX is clearly superior?
  3. Marty, do you prefer the MSX for rides like this (over the Nikola and/or 16X) for the larger wheel and greater stability? i also saw that Chooch has recently gone back to his 100v MSX too...
  4. I'll be doing a Fort Collins ride tomorrow... if anyone wants to join, just DM me or call or text (if you have my number... if you don't, just ask in DM).. -J
  5. @Jimmy Chang, You said you bought another wheel from eWheels.com, what did you get? :-)
  6. If y’all are willing to come to Fort Collins, I know an AWESOME trail ride we can do! Who’s in?
  7. Just picked-up a 100v Nik+!

    1. tessa25

      tessa25

      Congratulations! You've got a few more to buy to catch up with @Marty Backe.

  8. Just weighing-in here my own opinion: Of course I agree with weatherproofing, and that should be a given... but for me, I'd really like the Big Three (Kingsong, Gotway, Inmotion) to bring us options that have MORE power & torque (which I equate with SAFETY & fun, not necessarily speed, as I'm fine with 50kph) -- along with STABILITY (I'm not a fan of wobbles), but without making it as big as a tank. Sure, the Monster is powerful and stable, but it's also so massive that it loses nimbleness and quite a bit of convenience of being able to get up and down stairs as well as off-road capability. This would likely mean a compromise of battery life, but hey, we already have wheels with massive battery life, and I rarely ride more than 25 miles on a charge. What I'm looking for might have specs like this: 18" wheel for STABILITY 2400w motor 1000wh battery 40 pounds or LESS! In the car world, this is more of a Ferrari than a Camaro, if you get my reference. And if it looked more like a Ducati and less like a Roomba, that would be a plus too. -J.
  9. This is great feedback! The two polar opposites on the spectrum are probably the M10 and the Monster... Of those two, would you say that the M10 would provide more opportunities for learning?
  10. Good to know... I've never gone that far yet... but I'm willing to give it a try. -J.
  11. Ok... so here's the result of my 16X wobble-issue: I tried reseating the original (CYT) tire on the rim myself per @Mark Lee's suggestion -- but no luck. So I sent the 16X back to @Jason McNeil... he said the CYT tire that came on the wheel was defective and he replaced it with a CX tire (which was a bit of a surprise). So the wheel came back... and now... it's definitely better! Here are my observations and thoughts: The CX tire definitely has more of a "gyro effect" -- meaning the wheel is VERY easy to maneuver when going slow... but as soon as it gets up over about 10-12 MPH, it really stands-upright and requires a significant amount more lean to make it turn. This isn't necessarily a bad thing... but it's quite pronounced and required me to take it easy before I got used to it (nearly crashed it the first time I got back on, as I wasn't used to the amount of effort to turn it at speed)! Now that I'm used to it though, I actually like the effect quite a bit! It feels MUCH more solid and stable at speed and I was able to go from my previous wobbly max-speed of 18-20MPH now to the alarm I set at 25MPH without feeling like it wants to buck me off! One downside, however, is now I'm noticing wobble on acceleration and braking (whereas previously, with the defective CYT tire, it would wobble just trying to go straight and steady down the road). This was much more pronounced when I first got it back... and now that I've ridden about 50 miles with the new CX tire (and also lowered pressure down to 25PSI) it seems to have calmed-down now quite a bit. Maybe I'm just accelerating and braking faster? I'm hoping this current wobble is mostly due to a skills deficit and will continue to improve... but I suppose between the CYT wobbling all the time vs. the CX only wobbling on acceleration or braking, I definitely prefer the CX because of the stability at-speed. I can now ride seated without wobble (a BIG improvement) and I do feel that I have some control over the wobble now as it only happens if I accelerate or brake too quickly, assuming of course I don't have to brake in an emergency situation, which I suppose would be dangerous... but as I said, it seems to be improving with my own skill. I can also run at 25PSI now, whereas with the CYT tire I couldn't go over 22PSI, which then made more noise and had more "bounce" just going down the road and also contributed to the unstable feeling. Now... overall, I LOVE this 16X and feel like I made exactly the right wheel choice for my use of mixed roads & trails here in Northern Colorado, both standing and seated. It's a huge upgrade over my V10F -- it's MUCH more capable: I can go up some pretty serious hills without stalling, I can finally pendulum forward and backward, ride backwards as long as I dare, go down stairs without fear, and I even went UP a curb yesterday now that I have the Roll.nz bodyguard! Woo! The biggest downside I have now is that I've outgrown the V10F. What to do with it? I'm thinking to list it here for sale... It only has 250 miles on it, a few scrapes, but it totally worked for the purpose of bringing me into the hobby before I was ready for the 16X. On the other hand, I would still like to have two wheels -- but what should the 2nd wheel be? Nikola? (maybe too close to the 16X?) Mten3? (maybe too small and twitchy?) Monster? Other? Would love to hear others' thoughts! -J.
  12. I completely agree. Although the charger outputs at a constant voltage (the “size” of the electron pipe, which should remain at 84.2V and can be see on the charger readout when the charger is on but not yet plugged into the EUC), it does vary the amperage (the rate of “flow” of electrons inside the pipe) depending on the current output voltage of the batteries. The EUC's BMS controls the output voltage of the batteries, and thus “controls" the output amperage of the charger. This leads us to postulate that there are two probable reasons a fire like this could have occurred: 1. The BMS had a fault in output voltage and thus incorrectly "communicated" to the charger that the batteries achieved full capacity, and thus allowed the charger to overcharge the pack and cause the battery damage that could lead to a fire. 2. The charger either had a fault or for some other reason did not lower its output amperage when the batteries reached their maximum voltage threshold, thus overcharging the batteries and leading to the battery damage and fire. In my opinion, and based on my and @RetroThruster's observations, the problem appears to be #2, as the charger when plugged into a 16X does not automatically shut-off when the charger is set to 80% and the 16X's battery pack then reaches 80% capacity, and thus it is likely it also does not lower it's output amperage when it reaches 100% either. In the case of the user who experienced the fire, if his charger kept charging after the battery reached 100% rated capacity, the output voltage of the battery (not the charger) would then exceed the rated voltage of 84.2V, which would readout on the charger (the 88V the user saw), and cause the damage and subsequent fire. My 2-pence…
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