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MSuper18V3 from Airwheel X5


Cerbera

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8 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

So it really doesn't matter when performing the main calibration if it's tilted slightly left or right.

 

7 minutes ago, Roll Model said:

I doubt a degree or two would matter much for the left and right...

On the MS3 I measured cutoff angle at 45 degrees exactly. Even if a few degrees off-center doesn't matter I imagine it's still something that it's good to be aware of when you're calibrating - there are bound to be some people that try it while it's leaning against a wall, which possibly would have some repercussions on tight corners ! :)

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5 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

 

On the MS3 I measured cutoff angle at 45 degrees exactly. Even if a few degrees off-center doesn't matter I imagine it's still something that it's good to be aware of when you're calibrating - there are bound to be some people that try it while it's leaning against a wall, which possibly would have some repercussions on tight corners ! :)

As the calibration ( as far as i know) is only working for the pedals...and not for left/ right...i think its no matter if you have the wheel on a wall or so...

you can not calibrate the qyro left or right...only front/rear...like i said..as far as i know!

but you can easily test it :-)

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5 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

As the calibration ( as far as i know) is only working for the pedals...and not for left/ right...i think its no matter if you have the wheel on a wall or so...

you can not calibrate the qyro left or right...only front/rear...like i said..as far as i know!

but you can easily test it :-)

Thanks, @KingSong69 That's interesting. In his video, Kevin Lee tries very hard to keep his wheel left-right centered as he calibrates.

I can see I am going to have to test this now :)

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3 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Thanks, @KingSong69 That's interesting. In his video, Kevin Lee tries very hard to keep his wheel left-right centered as he calibrates.

I can see I am going to have to test this now :)

dont know this a 100%....

....but what i know:

board are often just usable in their very own unique one config....example MCM3:

the board is on the side of the wheel...and you can NOT PUT it on the top of the wheel...and JUST recalibrate it...

so the Recalibration is working just for one axxis...

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59 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Thanks, @KingSong69 That's interesting. In his video, Kevin Lee tries very hard to keep his wheel left-right centered as he calibrates.

I can see I am going to have to test this now :)

:) 

I have two identical ks18 but ks16 does not know, however, calibration of the level I've discovered one peculiarity of my wheels. During calibration of the wheel to get a good result to be exactly vertical (if you seen from front or behind ) !  If the wheel is for calibration a little lean towards the side, becomes is soft and poorly controlled, after calibration !

Now I'm calibrate always support the wheel against the wall so that almost wants to topple over ( Vertically as possible and keep in contact with the wall ).

In this way, I have received all of the pedal positions usable !

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22 hours ago, Cerbera said:

I really struggle to go uphill at any sort of decent speed, or to get enough weight into my toes to accelerate past about 25 km/h. I have to lean so far forward in these circumstances that my heels actually leave the footplates altogether, and so I am hanging on by my toes ! This is sort of OK going slowly uphill, but when you're at 25 km/h + this is a big concern not to have all your feet on the pedals.

This is mainly because the pedal is not long enough. The bigger the wheel, the longer the pedal necessary to achieve the same climb angle or acceleration.
pedal3.gif

When I first got my V2 and climb a steep slope, I had the similar situation to put my weight to the very front of my feet and lift the heels.
cut_35.jpg

This is especially true for lighter riders, because the wheel allows this without getting overleaned or over heated. 
The solution, fit a pair of pedal extension:
pedpins.jpg

Then I was able to climb slope like this, limited only by the max torque that V2 can deliver:
MSV2-MS-24.jpg

I did similar extension to my V3 as well
pedal-ext.jpg

The switch from a 14" to 18" is a big step as far as the pedal size is concerned. Even with the extension, one should learn the "shift feet trick" to adapt different riding situations without get off of the wheel. "Shift feet trick" is just the moving feet of back or forth, one by one, 

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12 hours ago, zlymex said:

This is mainly because the pedal is not long enough. The bigger the wheel, the longer the pedal necessary to achieve the same climb angle or acceleration.

Thank you for that comprehensive explanation of what is going on there, and for sharing your rather impressive solution ! That's a bit too drastic for me to attempt on my wheel - I'm not big on metalwork skills. To be fair, i don't need to go up hills that steep ! And with more time on the wheel, using both foot shift and the 'squeeze and push' method, I am actually doing OK up hills now. I've also subtly adjusted the way I put weight into my toes so that it is more effective with the MS3, and so I'm minimising the problem to an extent that it is not bothering me much any more. 

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Just now, Martti said:

Hi,

Have You tried comfortable mode for upphill?

i have now 600 km on my new MS3, and very hapy with it

 

I haven't ! I assumed 'powerful' mode would be more aggressive up hills. Would be delighted to be wrong about that ! I've read quite a few posts where people say they can't notice any difference between any of the modes :) I take it you haven't found that to be the case ?

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On 26.10.2016 at 5:11 AM, Cerbera said:

Thank you for that comprehensive explanation of what is going on there, and for sharing your rather impressive solution ! That's a bit too drastic for me to attempt on my wheel - I'm not big on metalwork skills. To be fair, i don't need to go up hills that steep ! And with more time on the wheel, using both foot shift and the 'squeeze and push' method, I am actually doing OK up hills now. I've also subtly adjusted the way I put weight into my toes so that it is more effective with the MS3, and so I'm minimising the problem to an extent that it is not bothering me much any more. 

 

4 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

I haven't ! I assumed 'powerful' mode would be more aggressive up hills. Would be delighted to be wrong about that ! I've read quite a few posts where people say they can't notice any difference between any of the modes :) I take it you haven't found that to be the case ?

No,

Comfotable mode lets toes down easier, works for me. Soft is too soft for me.

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2 hours ago, Cerbera said:

I haven't ! I assumed 'powerful' mode would be more aggressive up hills. Would be delighted to be wrong about that ! I've read quite a few posts where people say they can't notice any difference between any of the modes :) I take it you haven't found that to be the case ?

It's not always evident how the three modes are different, depending on how you ride the wheel. Acceleration differences are more subtle. If you want to immediately see the 'big' differences between the modes (you must cycle the power on the wheel after changing the mode), do this: travel at speed (> 15km/h) and then brake aggressively. In the most powerful mode the pedals will feel rigid (i.e. very responsive). In the easy mode they will lean back substantially before the breaking really kicks in. The difference is like day and night. Acceleration is different too, but not as apparent as the braking. 

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Going to be getting some body armour for use with the new MSV3. Found this.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/661-rage-pressure-suit-2016/rp-prod129513

What does everyone think of that ? (I don't mind looking like some kind of rubbish Robocop reject). Or what would you recommend instead ?

Thanks everyone

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Just now, HunkaHunkaBurningLove said:

Here's a thread about some protection options:

 

Ah - I only searched the forum for 'body armour', and didn't find a specific thread. Thanks for that one...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Right I've had a full 3 weeks on my MS3 now, and I'm about to do the final uphill tests. I have done 3 things to try and improve uphill performance - reversed the pedals, put the software in comfortable mode, and calibrated the wheel to -2.2 degrees back from center. I have established from tests that the rocking null area around the center of balance is about 1 degree, so I have tilted mine back just 1.2 degrees taking that into account. As I understand it, this is everything I can do without adding pedal extensions, right ?

Ok - did a 2 mile test run with those settings, and it is definitely better. Having tried all the things separately, and found out they are not quite enough, together they are definitely closer. Braking didn't seem too badly compromised by the 2.2 degree offset, so I am going to increase that to 5, and see if I can really notice if there is less pressure at the front required to force the wheel to accelerate faster.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Update: Uphills no longer a problem...

Very pleased to report that my struggles to go uphill are now a thing of the past, and so much so that I have now put the pedals back to the right way round, and reset my calibration to 0 degrees. It was all in the foot position; what worked perfectly with the airwheel doesn't do very well with the MS, and now I've had more than a month on the MS3 every day, I have adapted that, and my weight-shifting technique, and run-up speeds, to move my wheel up all but the very steepest of inclines without pedal extensions. So very happy with that ! :)

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On 10/27/2016 at 5:36 PM, Marty Backe said:

In the most powerful mode the pedals will feel rigid (i.e. very responsive). In the easy mode they will lean back substantially before the breaking really kicks in.

I really hate that sloshy feeling! IPS only has 2 choices: sport (hard) or comfort (soft). I only use sport.

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1 hour ago, MaxLinux said:

I really hate that sloshy feeling! IPS only has 2 choices: sport (hard) or comfort (soft). I only use sport.

Every so often I wonder whether comfort mode would be good for where I'm riding "just then." So I try it...

About 27 seconds later I change it back! 

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On 12/8/2016 at 10:32 PM, MaxLinux said:

I really hate that sloshy feeling! IPS only has 2 choices: sport (hard) or comfort (soft). I only use sport.

Ive found that sloshy setting grows on you if you use it for a while, and takes some of the bumpiness out of the bumps in the road for a more relaxed ride!

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4 minutes ago, Stefan Eekenulv said:

another way is to add a wedge in the front
it is just amazing the difference !

http://eucmods.blogspot.se/2016/08/msuper3-mod2-wedge.html

No offense meant:

Perhaps you have to say that a wedge is only helpful if you ride in the "monkey" Position, when have your knees bend a lot and your feet set back...

As i ride in a more upset Position, with only light bend knees, my foot Position is so that my toes are hanging/showing over the pedal

(and i see this foot Position, toes over the pedal on all riders which do not ride "monkey-monoski" style)

So a wedge like this would even be disturbing to me, as it would sit under my foot "ball"....

 

 

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