Linnea Veteran Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 Some riders gave the feedback that Msuper make big noise when riding, this problem is easy to happen after many times fall down. It is because the pedestal getting loose, you need to open the case to tighten the screws on it. Attachment will tell you how to fix the problem. Msuper.mp4 Find a machine like this.docx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esbu Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 I am having little shaking on my MSuper, now I know how to fix it Thanks for sharing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkopv21 Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 I have ridden my msuper18 MS for almost a year and started to get wobble effect like in the video above about a month ago and I kind of ignored it. So last week while riding EUC started to make noise and almost immediately sparks came out and wheel died. Once I popped EUC open I can see bolt to which wheel is attached to is cracked in half see attached. Folks do yourself a favor once your EUC starts wobble stop riding it and have it serviced by tightening screws or you’re risking falling off it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 6 hours ago, lkopv21 said: Looks like a fair bit of rust there too... what material are those axles made of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkopv21 Posted August 4, 2016 Share Posted August 4, 2016 Gotway probably best to answer to your question. I'm curious to see if anyone else had same issues after a year of using Msuper. I'm lucky i was cruising at low speed, as normally i go at the max, and i was able to run off it safely. I loved my EUC but the fact it only lasted less then a year isn't good. To break it down the amount i paid for the wheel and how long it lasted i could have leased a brand new car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 Again, this are improved/ modified bike parts with a different stress. The companies are so small in the EUC business. This shafts may last on most occasions. But can we be sure they torque them in factory? If you get an overtorqued nut on the shaft it may give up earlier (losing, shaft failure as above). Screws and nuts are normally calculated how much torque they need. More torque isn't better. Look at this stupid guys at your car garage. Do they use air-hydraulic impact wrenchs? I bet they over torque your wheel screws. But the stronger the EUC are, the heavier the forces/ more amplitudes. I bet a fatigue test is not conducted in development. This will come with the PLEV standard - for reason as we see here. The entire design of this motors and also other parts need to change. Starting from scratch at some parts. This can be done as an evolution and setting priorities what needs first to be changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEC Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 1 hour ago, OliverH said: Again, this are improved/ modified bike parts with a different stress This really irks me greatly seeing unsuitable e-bike parts being re-purposed without much of though like this. Be it dangerous BMS'es, weak axels and other mechanical parts originally designed to withstand less than half weight on two or more wheeled vehicles and even less of dynamic stress. Also the consequences of the failed part on EUC are much much dearer than on bicycle. Poor design and assembly plus lacking QA or any testing whatsoever leads to situation we have now. There is currently basically no EUCs manufacturer (maybe with exception of Inmotion) without a major issues, design flaws or FW problems present in their products. Customer's and distributor's feedback (as @Jason McNeil might attest) falls usually on a deaf ear and companies are playing ostrich instead of facing the issue head on and looking for / offering acceptable solutions. We as customers though are partially responsible as well by supporting such companies while purchasing such bad products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 1 hour ago, HEC said: This really irks me greatly seeing unsuitable e-bike parts being re-purposed without much of though like this. Be it dangerous BMS'es, weak axels and other mechanical parts originally designed to withstand less than half weight on two or more wheeled vehicles and even less of dynamic stress. Also the consequences of the failed part on EUC are much much dearer than on bicycle. Poor design and assembly plus lacking QA or any testing whatsoever leads to situation we have now. There is currently basically no EUCs manufacturer (maybe with exception of Inmotion) without a major issues, design flaws or FW problems present in their products. Customer's and distributor's feedback (as @Jason McNeil might attest) falls usually on a deaf ear and companies are playing ostrich instead of facing the issue head on and looking for / offering acceptable solutions. We as customers though are partially responsible as well by supporting such companies while purchasing such bad products. Yes. Inmotion is an underdog. Underestimated. They come from an engineering business and if you look on their products you see differences. But also Inmotion can only use core parts available on the market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEC Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 1 hour ago, OliverH said: But also Inmotion can only use core parts available on the market. Yes - and no. Look at the new design of V8 motor, their own battery packs or if you've seen the V5F disassembly video - that shows the fantastic design. And indeed those parts whey they don't produce themselves comes in different quality and price ranges so right choices on their side helps ofcourse as well. And as they're customers to their suppliers they have the choice and say to what use / accept and what not and oversight the quality and other important factors of the part used in their wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OliverH Posted August 5, 2016 Share Posted August 5, 2016 16 minutes ago, HEC said: Yes - and no. Look at the new design of V8 motor, their own battery packs or if you've seen the V5F disassembly video - that shows the fantastic design. And indeed those parts whey they don't produce themselves comes in different quality and price ranges so right choices on their side helps indeed as well. I'm following Inmotions progress for some time. I've full respect of their efforts. They visited an eVelo exhibition (invited by Alex Segmüller (eMotion)) in Berlin/ Germany some time ago to get some feeling of customers. If they come with bigger batteries/ stronger motors I'll have a closer look and may buy one. Your're right with the motor of the V8. Has it titan/ magnesium side covers to lower weight? That's just the beginning of redesign of parts. But we become OT in the Gotway subforum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esbu Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 27.7.2016, two weeks ago, it was half year when I started riding MSuper. I noticed the same described by Linnea Lin - I posted above. Two days ago I finished repairs. Here are photos: and.. I did test ride almost 44 kilometers yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunToxx Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 On Monday, August 08, 2016 at 6:27 PM, ESBU said: 27.7.2016, two weeks ago, it was half year when I started riding MSuper. I noticed the same described by Linnea Lin - I posted above. Two days ago I finished repairs. Here are photos: . I did test ride almost 44 kilometers yesterday Did you have one of those tables Jane Mo suggested, or ist it possible to tighten the screws without it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlymex Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 I got the same problem on my V2 and I fixed it with a spanner, an anvil, and a hammer(not shown on the photo, strike on the arrow). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunToxx Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 That looks good, thanks. Did you have to undo all the wiring or is it enough to do it on one side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mistagear Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 If Gotway intend to continue with the threaded nut on end of the axle (I think its a poor method) they should at least adopt this style of nut picturesd so there is far less chance it will become loose. As machines are becoming heavier and more powerful, their current nut and retainer method will come under increased strain and more failures are likely to occur. Personally I'd adopt the clamped (double flat) shaft ends for greater strength. Can only hope this message gets back to them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I suspect that they may not be applying enough torque on these bolts which would explain the common problems we are seeing. For automotive purposes everything has a torque specification. Are they using a torque wrench to secure the bolts? A little bit of blue Loctite and a properly torqued bolt could possibly prevent these issues and serious accidents at higher speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Re-tighten the nut helps only briefly. Aluminium to give up, so it always loosens again and again. Until some part breaks down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 I wonder whether having a stainless flat washer on either side of the pedal would help prevent loosening or having an elastic nylon insert stop nut might do the trick. Have you tried Loctite blue @EUC Extreme? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Extreme Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 It does not help. The nut does not loosen, but the aluminum to give up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 With the softer aluminum and the amount of lever force on the single mounting point I can see why that would happen over time. I wonder if there is some way for EUC designers to incorporate two stainless metal plates to sandwich the aluminum pedal where the bolt fastens. That way the plates could distribute the force better rather than create that wear pattern in your photo and subsequent pedal loosening. Edit: @EUC Extreme is the wear only on the motor side of the pedal? I wonder if a countersunk area for a stainless washer could be milled into the pedal so a washer could be inserted in the motor side of the pedal to resist wear? Have you tried just placing a washer in between the pedal and the motor? It looks like the pedal's micro movement rotational tendency grinds away at the pedal. Maybe a square axle with a thread on the end would work better with a matching square hole in the pedal. That would stop any pedal play and keep things tight. If bicycle pedals / cranks have a square mounting hole, why do we have round ones? That's the part you don't want to spin no matter what. Also, can't they use the same hard metal alloy? It's very similar to what metal they use for high strength tools like crescent wrenches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunToxx Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 The Shop where I bought the Msuper said they would tighten the nut and then apply some sort of special glue so the nut won't untighten again. I forgot the name of the product, but it is meant exactly for that purpose. @EUC Extreme Do you think that is a good idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunToxx Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 When opening up the Msuper, what do you have to watch our for? Can you just pull connectors off the PCB? After all, there is a lot of electricity involved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vik's Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 14 minutes ago, sunToxx said: The Shop where I bought the Msuper said they would tighten the nut and then apply some sort of special glue so the nut won't untighten again. I forgot the name of the product, but it is meant exactly for that purpose. @EUC Extreme Do you think that is a good idea? That "special glue" is most probably Loctite (blue coloured). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunToxx Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Ah yes, thread locking fluid. That was the name of it. Not sure if 5hey use that brand or color though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunToxx Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 If I would use that myself, I would have to prepare the spot before because thread locking fluid does not work on aluminum? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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