Inmotion v13 useful information

[Punxatawneyjoe]

13 minutes ago, jayceuc said:

after I do some heavy trail riding it gets “shaky” again and again

Something doesn't seem right, Ive done about 700 miles on trails with mine and have never had to touch them, Also i wiped off the grease and used 3m dry lube on my sliders and have had no trouble or stiction whatsoever.

15 minutes ago, jayceuc said:

When I tighten them up I’ll hear a squeak noise

That seems bad also, it sounds way to tight. Have you taken the wheel apart and made sure everything is tight?

[jayceuc]

On 9/4/2023 at 8:36 PM, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Something doesn't seem right, Ive done about 700 miles on trails with mine and have never had to touch them, Also i wiped off the grease and used 3m dry lube on my sliders and have had no trouble or stiction whatsoever.

That seems bad also, it sounds way to tight. Have you taken the wheel apart and made sure everything is tight?

Yeah, I’ve taken it apart a few times double checking everything I can.  The sliders have play (a lot) tightening the nylon bushings is the only thing that reduces the play. It’s almost as if the metal sliders (the ones attached to the motor) were machined slightly smaller or something.. My guess is the sliders constantly going up and down shave down the nylon spacers. ( hence the squeaking I hear.) 

[Punxatawneyjoe]

14 minutes ago, jayceuc said:

constantly going up and down shave down the nylon spacers.

This is what is concerning me about your sliders as well as the reason i removed all grease from mine. I knew i was going to be doing a lot of off road riding and i did not want the dirt/sand sticking to the grease on the sliders . The dry lube works great, i have barely worn into the anodized coating after over 1200 mi. So i was wondering what state your sliders are in and if there is any damage to them causing excessive wear. Sucks you are having this problem and i don't really know what to suggest aside from slider and slides replacement. I have never had to adjust mine and i am not taking it easy on the wheel, that's for sure.

[Forwardnbak]

Dry lube works well for me, over 2000km my sliders haven’t worn at all and no gunk collected. Still working well. 

[Peeler]

Hello everyone, I am considering buying a v13. Is there a way of checking if the wheel that I am buying is from batch #3? I remember with Veteran, you could tell by checking the serial number on the motor. 

[jayceuc]

On 9/6/2023 at 7:07 PM, Punxatawneyjoe said:

This is what is concerning me about your sliders as well as the reason i removed all grease from mine. I knew i was going to be doing a lot of off road riding and i did not want the dirt/sand sticking to the grease on the sliders . The dry lube works great, i have barely worn into the anodized coating after over 1200 mi. So i was wondering what state your sliders are in and if there is any damage to them causing excessive wear. Sucks you are having this problem and i don't really know what to suggest aside from slider and slides replacement. I have never had to adjust mine and i am not taking it easy on the wheel, that's for sure.

I guess I’ll say “stay tuned” I’m sure I’ll be investigating soon at this rate

[2disbetter]

Could someone explain how you would clean and apply dry lube to your sliders? I would very much like to do this, but I'm not sure how it is done. It will also be nice if folks recommend the specific lube to get. I just don't want to it and make things worse and collect a bunch of dust and dirt. 

Edited September 8, 2023 by 2disbetter

[Punxatawneyjoe]

8 hours ago, 2disbetter said:

Could someone explain how you would clean and apply dry lube to your sliders? I would very much like to do this, but I'm not sure how it is done. It will also be nice if folks recommend the specific lube to get. I just don't want to it and make things worse and collect a bunch of dust and dirt. 

You have to separate the wheel/sliders from the main body. If you haven't done it yet, then the steps are as follows (if i remember correctly).

Remove the 4 trolley handle screws

remove 6 back handle screws

remove the 4 side screws for plastic top

remove rubber adjuster plugs and 4 screws through top plastic underneith

remove 2 shock screws and 2 dampener nuts.

Lift the back of the top cover up and pull back to unlatch it from the front.  Reach under and unplug both battery connectors. Attempt to power on the wheel (to drain caps) unplug the headlight, charge ports, tail light and the main connector to the raptor controller. Set cover aside.

Unscrew 3 phase wires on raptor controller and unplug hall sensors. Remove the wire hold down screw on top.

Now the main body should lift up and off the wheel

Clean off all grease on sliders and spray several coats of 3m 08897 dry lube on sliders, letting each coat dry completely before applying another.

side notes: don't loose the 2 lock washers on the top of the dampeners they keep the shafts from spinning when you turn the nut up top.

when sliding the assembly back down onto the wheel keep it straight or you might dislodge the rubber blocks at the top of the sliders.

be careful not to strip the 4 screws that hold down the cover under the adjustment rubber plugs, they only thread into plastic, make sure the cover is all the way down before attempting to screw these in.

 

Edited September 8, 2023 by Punxatawneyjoe
missed a step

[jayceuc]

Would too much grease cause an expansion problem..? Would too much grease cause the whole sliding system to widen… is this why I would need to keep adjusting the nylon spacers? I’m desperate looking for anything I think even if you were to load up too much grease it would just get squished out. All I can say is I’m not as in love with my Vy 13 like I used to be. I’m afraid to be out on the trails and it just starts to develop that rickety shake feeling every time I go over a bump. It’s like when I’m riding and I slightly shift forward and back and I’m in like a neutral coasting state. The motor is slowing or speeding up slightly enough that it starts to shake. I feel like the sliders are just getting worn down with the constant up-and-down but why would there be a space to shake the shaft is designed in machine to be an exact fitting… they then slide up inside the V 13 shafts, so how could this be that a gap big enough to allow shaking develops? I’m almost wishing it was motor bolt problems. It’s not the motor bolts they are in tact.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

1 hour ago, jayceuc said:

It’s not the motor bolts they are in tact

Have you put a allen wrench on them and check the tightness?  Also is there anyway you could post a picture of the sliders ?

[mrelwood]

8 hours ago, jayceuc said:

Would too much grease cause an expansion problem..?

I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t. The sliders on the V11 are made of a treated POM, and I’m pretty sure the V13 ones are as well. I’m no chemist, but I’ve understood it not to swell due to oils or humidity, like nylon does for example.

8 hours ago, jayceuc said:

why would there be a space to shake the shaft is designed in machine to be an exact fitting…

All materials bend, deform and wear out. And all manufacturing processes have tolerances. While the black rails the sliders slide against are a solid item, the vertical bar the sliders are attached to is made of aluminum and shaped a bit like the letter “U”. I do think that the U profile on the V11 at least is not capable of holding it’s own on sharp bumps, which even destroys the suspension capability of handling sharp bumps very well. And a movement like this cannot not deform the aluminum with time. That’s why there is an adjustment for the V13 sliders.

In your case though, it doesn’t make sense that you need to adjust them so often. I’d be afraid that something is about to give. The sliders themselves or the adjustment mechanism from having been too tight (don’t know if possible), or even the vertical “U”-bars (highly unlikely).

 This is a very long shot, but at least it’s something you could try: Remove the adjustment screws altogether, and apply some thread locker on them. That would make sure that at least they can’t loosen up as easily.

[SteveCampisano]

Inmotion V13 charger fuse blown. 

Original Factory Charger 

Where do i get a replacement fuse

[novazeus]

idk if this useful info, but yesterday screwing around with the sliders, i had laid the turned off v13 on it's side. np the first time, but when i started it after the second time i laid it down, it said, "please repair" and went into full tiltback. i held the power button down and turned it off and back on and everything is fine now.

[jayceuc]

OK update the answer is revealed! So it turns out the up-and-down motion from riding slowly was wearing down the metal in the area where the nylon spacers sit. So this makes sense now.. I would tighten it, It would go away and then come back. It was never going to get better scary part is how is this is even possible how do I stop it from happening if I was to get new sliders, you can see all on the inner walls of the Unicycle the metal had been worn down am I just doomed to always have jiggle and play? Doesn’t seem right…? This area must also be getting warm or hot.. no? What the heck do I do??  my thoughts are the whole inner slider spots are never going to be a State now that they’re shave down.

[jayceuc]

On 9/8/2023 at 11:52 PM, mrelwood said:

I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t. The sliders on the V11 are made of a treated POM, and I’m pretty sure the V13 ones are as well. I’m no chemist, but I’ve understood it not to swell due to oils or humidity, like nylon does for example.

All materials bend, deform and wear out. And all manufacturing processes have tolerances. While the black rails the sliders slide against are a solid item, the vertical bar the sliders are attached to is made of aluminum and shaped a bit like the letter “U”. I do think that the U profile on the V11 at least is not capable of holding it’s own on sharp bumps, which even destroys the suspension capability of handling sharp bumps very well. And a movement like this cannot not deform the aluminum with time. That’s why there is an adjustment for the V13 sliders.

In your case though, it doesn’t make sense that you need to adjust them so often. I’d be afraid that something is about to give. The sliders themselves or the adjustment mechanism from having been too tight (don’t know if possible), or even the vertical “U”-bars (highly unlikely).

 This is a very long shot, but at least it’s something you could try: Remove the adjustment screws altogether, and apply some thread locker on them. That would make sure that at least they can’t loosen up as easily.

It DID DEFORM!!! how the heck right..? How does metal wear down from nylon…? 

[UPONIT]

On 10/1/2023 at 11:50 AM, SteveCampisano said:

Inmotion V13 charger fuse blown. 

Original Factory Charger 

Where do i get a replacement fuse

From your dealer or any electronic part supplier? 

[Punxatawneyjoe]

On 10/1/2023 at 2:50 PM, SteveCampisano said:

Where do i get a replacement fuse

https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-5x20mm-0-2x0-78-F10AL250V-Fast-Blow/dp/B07S88HFDF/ref=asc_df_B07S88HFDF?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745502739840&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345029630260&psc=1

Its a 5mmx20mm 250v 10 amp.

6 hours ago, jayceuc said:

It DID DEFORM!!! how the heck right..?

It makes sense given its only aluminum and you probably kept over adjusting it driving it into the slide with force. Its supposed to float along the slide with a very tiny amount of "play" so it can glide easily. I have never adjusted mine in in 1500 miles.

 

[mrelwood]

20 hours ago, jayceuc said:

It DID DEFORM!!! how the heck right..? How does metal wear down from nylon…? 

Why wouldn’t it? Rock can be drilled with water. This is just aluminum. Plated and hardened, sure, but still aluminum.

Btw, it’s not nylon. But same difference. Yeah, your rails look completely ruined! It should take at least 3k miles of hard riding from a heavy rider to get to that point. Unless you used oil etc in there to attract sand and other stuff.

 The rails for the V11 were really cheap, hopefully they are for the V13 as well. Just make sure to clean the plastic slider guides when you install the new rails!

Edited October 4, 2023 by mrelwood

[jayceuc]

On 10/4/2023 at 11:37 AM, mrelwood said:

Why wouldn’t it? Rock can be drilled with water. This is just aluminum. Plated and hardened, sure, but still aluminum.

Btw, it’s not nylon. But same difference. Yeah, your rails look completely ruined! It should take at least 3k miles of hard riding from a heavy rider to get to that point. Unless you used oil etc in there to attract sand and other stuff.

 The rails for the V11 were really cheap, hopefully they are for the V13 as well. Just make sure to clean the plastic slider guides when you install the new rails!

I’m going to undergo the process of replacing sliders on both sides as soon as they arrive. After I’m completed, what lube or grease should I be applying? I don’t wanna chance a thing.

[jayceuc]

fast forward to 11:50 they show the wearing of the sliders

[Punxatawneyjoe]

3 hours ago, jayceuc said:

they show the wearing of the sliders

That's just the anodized coating worn off, not the actual metal like what happened to yours. My v11 has over 2k miles on the sliders off road and the coating is worn off but not the metal. IMO dry lube is the best option for these but @mrelwood might suggest something different, he has a lot of good ideas usually.

[mrelwood]

6 hours ago, jayceuc said:

what lube or grease should I be applying?

Me and a few other guys have found that candle wax is much better than any wet oil or grease. It stays on for much longer, and doesn’t attract crud. I use the basic small candles sold in the tiny aluminum cups. Dry lubes are generally a good suggestion, but I had poor success with a dry PTFE lube. Although, mine was a very cheap one, so better products might perform better and even stay on for longer.

 Going further, mixing molten candle wax with a thick PTFE grease (or even better, PTFE powder) does perform even better. It just requires additional work melting and mixing the stuff.

[novazeus]

u know what i think is the most useful information, known problems with the v13.

i mean it isn't perfect. but like a sticky post where if somebody overleaned or had an unexplained cutout.

so far it seems to be pretty error free from what i've read on this forum. the axle bolts, the high speed crash. that's about it. electronics wise pretty solid? idk, way over my head. i just try to ride them.

[novazeus]

like why would my old v13 after being laid on it's side, power off, then stood back upright and powered on, then say, please repair and go into full tiltback.

has that happened to anybody else? seems like there was a youtube video of a rider getting tiltback off the wheel.

i know and enjoy all the great parts of the wheel, but if there are weaknesses, i'd like to know them ahead of time. saves medical bills.

[jayceuc]

On 10/5/2023 at 4:40 PM, Punxatawneyjoe said:

That's just the anodized coating worn off, not the actual metal like what happened to yours. My v11 has over 2k miles on the sliders off road and the coating is worn off but not the metal. IMO dry lube is the best option for these but @mrelwood might suggest something different, he has a lot of good ideas usually.

Please yes hello what specific “dry lube” (if indeed dry lube is the winner) what exact lubrication is gonna be the best like “name brand” lube? Candle wax?? Wasn’t that an old sliding door trick..? This particular spot on the sliders clearly takes a little more abuse if it gets too dry, it will most likely wear faster from heat might even start squeak, it needs something!!?

Edited October 6, 2023 by jayceuc