Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb

[Paul g]

   And I was planning to buy this wheel 

[Funky]

9 minutes ago, Paul g said:

   And I was planning to buy this wheel 

Not all S-S are that "bad". He just got that "first" batch lemon. If my memory is right. He got that wheel at discount from aliexpress. (Sorry - if i was wrong.) That alone may explain all the shortcomings of the wheel..

If you are worried about problems. I would recommend buying ~3rd batch of any new wheel. Or even 4th batch. By that time most problems are ironed out. Also buying from local reputable dealer.

Edited February 13, 2023 by Funky

[Paul g]

10 minutes ago, Funky said:

Not all S-S are that "bad". He just got that "first" batch lemon. If my memory is right. He got that wheel at discount from aliexpress. That alone may explain all the shortcomings of the wheel..

If you are worried about problems. I would recommend buying ~3rd batch of any new wheel. Or even 4th batch. By that time most problems are ironed out.

     Yes, this is what I plan. V12 was enough for me    . But still who will guarantee they will solve the issue? This is still a question mark and all we can do is hope they’ll do something about it.

      If these problems with the suspension will continue Sherman S will have hard times selling. <- My stupid prediction. 

Edited February 13, 2023 by Paul g

[Funky]

7 minutes ago, Paul g said:

     Yes, this is what I plan. V12 was enough for me    . But still who will guarantee they will solve the issue? This is still a question mark and all we can do is hope they’ll do something about it.

      If these problems with the suspension will continue Sherman S will have hard times selling. <- My stupid prediction. 

Yeah - i personally hate that it doesn't have that solid "arch" holding both suspension sides together. Overtime the origami build will be problem. Also there is some play because of not having the "arch".. - My guess.

But luckily for people who change euc's like socks - long term problems aren't on their mind.  

Edited February 13, 2023 by Funky

[MrMonoWheel]

Yep this was a first batch second shipment straight from china. Now, everything I see with the wheel indicates that it is all brand new. Screws, housings, everything shows no signs of wear. I am 90% sure this wheel was right off the factory floor, but that other 10% always has me wondering. 

Either way, tomorrow I have a 40mm socket coming so I can hammer the new bearings onto the axle. The silicone for the hall sensor is dry and its nice and secure. The motor housing, magnets, and stator are all cleaned up and look brand new. I still expect GTKing to do something along the lines of a new motor/etc since the motor is supposed to be warrantied for two years, but for now this should hold me over. This wheel is essential for my college commuting so I gotta get it going as soon as possible.

[Freeforester]

 

7 hours ago, Paul g said:

     Yes, this is what I plan. V12 was enough for me    . But still who will guarantee they will solve the issue? This is still a question mark and all we can do is hope they’ll do something about it.

      If these problems with the suspension will continue Sherman S will have hard times selling. <- My stupid prediction. 

 

The remedy to the corrosion (if still unaddressed) is as laid out by Planemo, ie coating the internals with the lacquer most motor windings etc tend to be coated with; the jury is still out as to the durability of the design overall, but I tend to think that

a) we might have heard rather more as to the “undesirability” of the basic design (I highly doubt that Leaperkim would have released the wheel knowing it was generally a ‘bad un’, there’s too much at stake in terms of reputational damage, see KingSong S 20), and (to a lesser degree)

b) the earliest batch 1 wheels that have been offered at such a discounted price may have been so priced for a reason. 
 

Either way, a request made to your dealer of choice as the the nature of any corrosion protection afforded to the motor would certainly bring the matter into sharp relief sooner rather than later, if this aspect is not already being addressed by Lk; as to the overall durability of the wheel suspension design - wait another season if you can, and decide based upon your impressions and feedback garnered over the meantime. Remember too, that some may ride their wheels over different terrain and in different environmental conditions than you may yourself be contemplating.

[Planemo]

8 minutes ago, Freeforester said:

The remedy to the corrosion (if still unaddressed) is as laid out by Planemo, ie coating the internals with the lacquer most motor windings etc tend to be coated with

It's a tricky one. If the windings already show signs of corrosion and therefore cant effectively be cleaned back to a suitable condition without potentially causing damage to the wires I am not sure I would coat them with lacquer and lock in the problem. I would err towards stopping the corrosion where it stands by using something like ACF-50 which is brilliant to halt corrosion and prevent any further corrosion. I have used it for marine applications many times and it was originally designed for aircraft corrosion prevention. You can't really apply too much either, I would just coat the lot until it's dripping in the stuff.

Unless a motor manufacturer/EE has a better idea of course.

[Freeforester]

Gotta wonder if eg Begode, Lk or other manufacturers spec the actual companies making the motors to deliver them suitably coated?

[Steve Evans]

just a final (i hope) note on my bearing replacement (due to a knock allegedly caused by improperly seated bearings). 

i buttoned my wheel up yesterday after installing the new bearings. rode 40 miles today without issue. no more knocking. all good.

btw, i opted to do the work myself only because i did not want to wait the 3 to 4 weeks it would likely take my vendor to do the work and ship.

steve

 

Edited February 15, 2023 by Steve Evans

[MrMonoWheel]

I just got my bearings swapped today. I decided to replace the shitty silicone paste with Lucas marine grade wheel bearing grease, as its extremely resistant to water and doesn't sling out. I got everything buttoned up and then realized I didnt silicone the motor covers so I will pull it apart tomorrow and seal them.

For any future DIY bearing replacers, a 40mm socket is the perfect size to put over the inner race and hammer it onto the shaft. This is the one I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QO9FAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Clem604]

For those of you who don't like the top of the suspension hitting your legs here is another option instead of the LK side pads/seat combo. It's nice that it also has suspension adjustment dials included as well.

https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1415860967/sherman-s-inner-knee-support-with?click_key=3734b96d11d207bf9a19a1fa58a6a277c51deaf0%3A1415860967&click_sum=83116f13&ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=veteran+sherman+s&ref=sr_gallery-1-1&organic_search_click=1&from_search=1

Edited February 15, 2023 by Clem604

[MrMonoWheel]

Got the wheel sealed back up today. Some notes about the process. Getting the motor covers off is a right pain in the ass. The first one I did I used thin flathead screwdrivers going around the perimeter slowly nudging it upwards, but the cover just flexes without sliding off the bearing. The secret I found is to tap in screwdrivers at 3 locations 120 degrees apart, then use a torch or heat gun to heat up the area where the bearing seats. As it heats up you will hear it popping off the bearing. Once a gap forms, tap in two tire spoons 180 degrees apart and then heat up the same area as before, the spring-like tension caused by the tire spoons will cause the side cover to pop off as you heat it. Much easier than prying it off cold.

[wstuart]

2 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Got the wheel sealed back up today. Some notes about the process. Getting the motor covers off is a right pain in the ass. The first one I did I used thin flathead screwdrivers going around the perimeter slowly nudging it upwards, but the cover just flexes without sliding off the bearing. The secret I found is to tap in screwdrivers at 3 locations 120 degrees apart, then use a torch or heat gun to heat up the area where the bearing seats. As it heats up you will hear it popping off the bearing. Once a gap forms, tap in two tire spoons 180 degrees apart and then heat up the same area as before, the spring-like tension caused by the tire spoons will cause the side cover to pop off as you heat it. Much easier than prying it off cold.

Nice!  Thanks for the tip!  How's it riding now?

[wstuart]

I got asymmetrical pedals today.  The give way more room up in the toe and really match my stance on the wheel.

With my new Kinetic side pads, Leaperkim suspension cover and wider pedals, the wheel is now perfect.  I was able to rip around in high winds today and it didn't feel sketchy at all.   There's just nothing more I could ask for from an EUC.  

 

 

 

 

[KiwiMark]

I have my new pedals on the way to me, hopefully the shipping is very quick. I'll be fitting the NyloNove pedals as soon as I get them. I don't really mind the stock pedals to be honest, but I definitely like the NyloNove pedals on my V12HT more, so I'm keen to have the same type on my SS. My stock pedals are also a bit scraped up from a couple of pedal clip incidents, so new pedals will have the wheel looking a bit better.

[MrMonoWheel]

8 hours ago, wstuart said:

Nice!  Thanks for the tip!  How's it riding now?

I just rode around campus today and its night and day vs before. Smooth riding and quiet, and the suspension is nowhere as sticky as it was before. When I tore it down I used some 3-in-1 brand silicone lubricant and dripped it around the seals on the stanchion, then cycled the shocks upside down to work it in. I did that a few times as it left some dirt behind and then put everything back together careful to balance the tightening of screws. It still makes clunky noises though and I think the tire is somehow hitting the mudguard because it has an intermittent noise as it spins. I really hate how flexy and unsupported the mudguard is, its always bent one way or the other and rubbing against something.

[Stevebee]

Not just about the Sherman S but was surprised how well it faired against the over 100v “big boys”

 

[wstuart]

6 hours ago, Stevebee said:

Not just about the Sherman S but was surprised how well it faired against the over 100v “big boys”

 

Yeah I was surprised by that too.  I mean it feels fast, but I've ridden a Master and a Commander Pro and they felt faster.   Also, he did this without high-speed mode enabled.  I think alpt can be said for having confidence in the wheel while cornering too.  He seemed confident in the wheel.

It would have been nice to see a Commander Pro in the mix too

[wstuart]

Anyone know what the last setting is on the sherman S menu.  It says it's called "mode" and it has values "on" "off".  I was messing with it and I can't remember what default was .  

 

I know it's not high-speed mode because I haven't downloaded that firmware yet. 

[Paul D]

4 minutes ago, wstuart said:

Anyone know what the last setting is on the sherman S menu.  It says it's called "mode" and it has values "on" "off".  I was messing with it and I can't remember what default was .  

 

I know it's not high-speed mode because I haven't downloaded that firmware yet. 

Could it be low power mode?

[Steve Evans]

2 minutes ago, Paul D said:

Could it be low power mode?

the SS display is so cryptic when it comes to these settings. and the app is even less help.

has anyone listed all the options and what they mean?

[wstuart]

Here's a picture of it.  Kinda looks like it says "L mode"??  It comes right after selecting mph/kph and showing voltage.  I know it's the last setting because after this it cycles back to the first setting which is pedal hardness.

 

It's hard to see in the pic but the top is flashing "on" currently.  I'm hoping to figure out what I'm turning on and off before I ride.   In a video I watched, this is where high speed mode would be turned on, but like I said, I haven't downloaded that firmware yet, and the H-speed menu screen in the video looked different. 

Edited February 17, 2023 by wstuart

[Paradox]

Maybe low battery mode?

[wstuart]

Just now, Paradox said:

Maybe low battery mode?

Oh wow, I didn't know there was such a thing on the sherman S .  The manual doesn't mention it....... but then again the manual doesn't mention that there would be anything after the voltage setting item.  Here you can see the manual lists "voltage trim" as the last setting...... but this comes after voltage trim

[Paradox]

5 minutes ago, wstuart said:

Here you can see the manual lists "voltage trim" as the last setting...... but this comes after voltage trim

Is voltage trim used when calibrating the display to match the actual voltage of the batteries?