Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb

[Mango]

3 minutes ago, Clem604 said:

Did you order yours from AliExpress? At least you have it now and the fun can begin!

Yes. I'm surprised it took so long because others received theirs much sooner from Aliexpress.

[MrMonoWheel]

14 hours ago, techyiam said:

Are you are referring to the motor side covers, which houses the bearings, where they are fastened to the inner diameter of the rim contact surfaces?

Yep I'm referring to the motor side covers, I'm pretty sure I'll be fine though. I asked that question when it was late and I was tired so I forgot I've been doing this stuff for years 😂

 

10 hours ago, Tasku said:

Prolly not then. I live in different timezone. Zzz
 

 

They use silicone to seal the gaps. You need to redo it everytime the wheel is opened. It is for that extra waterproofing. It is easier to look where they had it before and then clean and redo it. You did open your wheel yourself last time, so you did not use silocone to reseal the gaps? I forget, I assume you did not open motor covers.

In some cases these devices need some air to move around, so some of the extra waterproof might make the device heatbuild quicker. Just to keep in mind, in general.

When the sizes get rare, you might need to put grease yourself. You should check where you purchased em. If from euc related store, ask there, and they ask their mechanic.

Oh yeah I sealed everything up with silicone, I was asking about the motor side covers. I bought the bearings off eBay directly from SKF and in 99% sure they are pre greased. I've never heard of a sealed bearing being delivered dry (except for the ones used in the batch 1 Sherman's apparently 😂).

 

2 hours ago, Mango said:

If in doubt with the grease type, just clean it out with a submersion in mineral spirits. The general guideline for how much grease is 30% but that's for dry applications of the bearing (fans, belts etc). I personally put in approx. 80-90% grease volume since the bearing housing comes in contact with moisture.

Good to know if I ever need to regrease.

[Dreygun]

@MrMonoWheel Whenever i changed my motor covers after a bearing swap, I smeared a thin layer of RTV on the mating surface and around the screw holes just same as whenever I removed the differential covers on my axles to change the diff oil (jeep). It worked for sealing the oil in on those, so I figured it would be good enough/overkill on euc motor covers to keep liquid out. No issues....yet lol

Just a thin, finger smeared layer, not a bead. Didn't want anything squishing inward, making it hard to clean off the next time.

 

 

 

On a side note, has anybody ever tried to use that silicone water beading spray on the outside of motor covers, around the axle area, seams on the shells before? Thinking the motion and breeze at speeds would have the water flowing right off. 

[Paul A]

From the EX30 thread.

Member Cobaltsaber:

To note, 5 sherman-s suspension forks have started leaking in china. Leaperkim for some reason has a 2 year warranty on battery, motherboard and motor, but only 3 month warranty for the suspension :/

[KiwiMark]

I went for another 100km ride today:

I didn't push the limits too hard, so no blood loss this time. I took the Insta360, but it might take a bit of time to edit over 3 hours of footage. I now have over 500km on my wheel, still can't fault it.

[Clem604]

2 hours ago, Paul A said:

From the EX30 thread.

Member Cobaltsaber:

To note, 5 sherman-s suspension forks have started leaking in china. Leaperkim for some reason has a 2 year warranty on battery, motherboard and motor, but only 3 month warranty for the suspension :/

I'm not sure how widespread or true this is but because I bought mine from Eevees, I have a one year warranty on the entire wheel. Hopefully I won't have to use it.

[MrMonoWheel]

4 hours ago, Paul A said:

From the EX30 thread.

Member Cobaltsaber:

To note, 5 sherman-s suspension forks have started leaking in china. Leaperkim for some reason has a 2 year warranty on battery, motherboard and motor, but only 3 month warranty for the suspension :/

Tbh seeing the amount of striction and weird noises my wheel has, I wouldn't be surprised if I'm next.

[Paul A]

A warranty is time limited.

Having the part(s) replaced for free might be just a temporary fix.

Need a better long term solution.

 

Mystifying reading some posts on other threads, about new models.

People seem to have short memories about first batch wheels.....where unexpected serious flaws might take time to be exposed.

[Rawnei]

Warranty is interesting, from what date does it take effect, from the date you buy it or when you receive it? What's the proof of claim? With these shipping times it would have expired by the time the wheel arrives if it's from buying date.

[Tawpie]

2 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Warranty is interesting, from what date does it take effect, from the date you buy it or when you receive it? What's the proof of claim? With these shipping times it would have expired by the time the wheel arrives if it's from buying date.

At least with KSs and my OG Sherman, the 6 month battery warranty started when the wheel was 'manufactured', so there wasn't much left by the time I got them! Fortunately, no warranty claims have been needed.

[Paul A]

https://www.ewheels.com/returns-and-warranty/

The warranty covers this product for one year from the date of purchase and includes the battery pack.

 

https://www.euco.us/pages/warranty

EUCO LLC warrants to the original consumer purchaser of the Product (“Purchaser”) that it will be free from defects in materials and manufacture on the date of purchase and will remain serviceable for a period of one year after the date of Purchaser’s purchase, subject to the exclusions in the following paragraph.

 

https://alienrides.com/pages/warranty-information

Alien Rides is proud to offer an industry leading two year comprehensive warranty from the date of product arrival.

 

https://eevees.com/pages/warranty

This Limited Warranty covers all defects in material and workmanship of the Product (excluding batteries) arising or occurring as a result of your normal and ordinary use of the Product for a period of one (1) year in Canada and the United States of America. 

This Limited Warranty covers all defects in material and workmanship of the Product's batteries arising or occurring as a result of your normal and ordinary use of the Product for a period of six (6) months in Canada and the United States of America.

 

https://revrides.com/pages/faq

Yes - all vehicles come with a 1-year warranty.

 

https://e-rides.com/return-warranty-policy/

e-Rides warranty obligations for the electric rideable you have just purchased are limited to the terms set forth in this document. e-Rides warrants the product against manufacturer defects for 12 months (1 year) only.

 

https://voltride.com/warranty/

Manufacturer warranty is offered usually for 1 year! As required per EU law, we offer claim coverage for up to 2 years from the purchase date!

 

 

[GHOSTTE]

I didn't realize eWheels and most are only a year, that's not long at all...

[Steve Evans]

fyi... this is the bearing i found in my SS. i have a new set of SKF's being delivered today.

 

[GHOSTTE]

6 hours ago, Paul A said:

Having the part(s) replaced for free might be just a temporary fix.

Need a better long term solution.

Buy a new wheel each year problem solved

[Paul A]

Leaperkim only having three month warranty for the suspension, seems to imply they know it is not robust.

[Clem604]

8 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Warranty is interesting, from what date does it take effect, from the date you buy it or when you receive it? What's the proof of claim? With these shipping times it would have expired by the time the wheel arrives if it's from buying date.

Like others have said I'm sure it's from the date of manufacture which isn't ideal for obvious reasons. A benefit from buying it from a shop is that my warranty starts the day I pick up the wheel.  Another benefit is not having to deal with the manufacturer directly. I'm okay with it as I can speak/write in Chinese  but I know many members here can't and that can make things much more difficult. Even then I prefer to deal with someone in person.

Edited February 11, 2023 by Clem604

[MrMonoWheel]

5 hours ago, Steve Evans said:

fyi... this is the bearing i found in my SS. i have a new set of SKF's being delivered today.

 

I still have to do mine, let me know how it goes! I have the bearing puller set from harbor freight ready to go.

[wstuart]

18 hours ago, Paul A said:

From the EX30 thread.

Member Cobaltsaber:

To note, 5 sherman-s suspension forks have started leaking in china. Leaperkim for some reason has a 2 year warranty on battery, motherboard and motor, but only 3 month warranty for the suspension :/

I think someone posted in Telegram that a 2 Sherman-S's in France had leaky suspensions.  

I'm still dry at 500 miles.  If I can get 2500 miles out of these shocks I'll be happy.  It'll be ~$400 to replace them.  Ewheels will cover it if mine fail in the fiest year...... I think I can hit 2500 miles by next January

[Mango]

There should be a kit made available to service these Fastace shocks, like there is with Rockshox (50 hr maintenance kit) complete with new oil and o-rings.

Don't need an extended warranty for something that is for normal wear and tear.

[Paul A]

How do the other EUC suspensions compare in rate of wear and tear? 

Failure, maintenance etc.

[CrabChampion]

21 hours ago, Paul A said:

From the EX30 thread.

Member Cobaltsaber:

To note, 5 sherman-s suspension forks have started leaking in china. Leaperkim for some reason has a 2 year warranty on battery, motherboard and motor, but only 3 month warranty for the suspension :/

Hey its me from the ex30 thread. To add, so far its suspected that the leaking suspension is due to people wanting a more "plush" feeling suspension and going with the lighter weight shock. This is likely putting more stress on the fork and causing it to leak when the suspension travel reaches the bottom. Not 100% confirmed however. Attached are images from those riders in china

I still find it weird that leaperkim has a shorter warranty on the suspension specifically compared to the rest of the wheel.

[Steve Evans]

5 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

I still have to do mine, let me know how it goes! I have the bearing puller set from harbor freight ready to go.

the bearing issue i had was not that they failed, but rather they were not seated correctly. this was after more than 360 miles of perfect operation. one day they started making a knocking sound which is indicative of the bearing moving within its housing.

i dropped the motor and removed one of the wheel covers and removed the old bearing from the axle.

installed the new bearing into the wheel cover by smearing loktite-641 on the bearing housing, heated the cover with a gas flame for about 5 mins until the outer rim was too hot to touch and then dropped the new bearing into the housing and tapped it into place using a rubber mallet. it fully seated quickly and easily.

i also cleaned off the old silicone sealant from both the rim of the cover and the motor and will reapply a thin bead to the cover before bolting it back to the motor.

then i'll do the other side of the motor.

then i'll pack a lot of silicone grease into the rubber seals and around axle before reassembly. 

hope this helps,

steve
 

[MrMonoWheel]

35 minutes ago, Steve Evans said:

the bearing issue i had was not that they failed, but rather they were not seated correctly. this was after more than 360 miles of perfect operation. one day they started making a knocking sound which is indicative of the bearing moving within its housing.

i dropped the motor and removed one of the wheel covers and removed the old bearing from the axle.

installed the new bearing into the wheel cover by smearing loktite-641 on the bearing housing, heated the cover with a gas flame for about 5 mins until the outer rim was too hot to touch and then dropped the new bearing into the housing and tapped it into place using a rubber mallet. it fully seated quickly and easily.

i also cleaned off the old silicone sealant from both the rim of the cover and the motor and will reapply a thin bead to the cover before bolting it back to the motor.

then i'll do the other side of the motor.

then i'll pack a lot of silicone grease into the rubber seals and around axle before reassembly. 

hope this helps,

steve
 

Excellent feedback, thank you. That's a good idea with the loctite, I might do something similar. Was the bearing too tight to be pushed into the motor cover hence the heating? Or was that just for good measure making sure it seats all the way down? I have a torch so if it's necessary I will do the same. Or I can use this as an excuse to buy a press 😂

[Steve Evans]

4 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Excellent feedback, thank you. That's a good idea with the loctite, I might do something similar. Was the bearing too tight to be pushed into the motor cover hence the heating? Or was that just for good measure making sure it seats all the way down? I have a torch so if it's necessary I will do the same. Or I can use this as an excuse to buy a press 😂

i did not test bearing tightness before heating the cover (other than trying unsuccessfully pushing in with my hand). i did not want to risk getting bearing partially inserted and then not being able to remove it.

to heat, i held the outer portion of the cover and continued until it started getting difficult to hold due to the heat. the bearing pretty much just popped right into the housing. i gave it a couple of taps with a mallet, but i dont think even that was necessary.

good luck,

steve

 

[MrMonoWheel]

Today I opened up the motor. Heres my post quoted from my ongoing ownership thread

Just now, MrMonoWheel said:

So today I opened up my wheel to change the bearings, and I have discovered some... interesting things. I have 200 miles on the wheel, and its never been submerged or ridden through salt water/rivers. The very most I did was ride it down the dry part of a beach during low tide. The wheel had some sand on it, but it was not wet at all. The inside of the motor housing has a ton of corrosion everywhere. Im not sure what exactly is causing this, but its not what I want to see inside of a $4k wheel. I was planning on swapping the bearings, but now I dont know what I should do. I am in contact with GT King and pretty much at the end of my patience with this wheel. I told them I expect either a new wheel, replacement motor and suspension (due to the clunking and stiction), or a refund. Otherwise I will be getting in contact with Amex to sort this out. I had high hopes for the wheel and remained hopeful throughout all the problems, but it just seems that the build quality and attention to detail is not what I expected. When everything is working well its an amazing wheel to ride, but theres just too many things that could cause it to not work properly.

One other finding, before tearing down the wheel I loosened up the 4 top bolts on either side that connect the battery housing to the motherboard housing, and the suspension moved a lot smoother without issue. This indicates that there is obviously an alignment issue with the way the wheel is designed, putting strain on the stanchions causing the struts to have increase resistance. However, even after taking the struts out and pushing them up and down on the floor I still feel some pretty weird stickiness at the start of the travel and when it changes direction. It makes an audible sound too, almost like an internal element is extra sticky. So while the alignment took away a lot of the stiction, theres still something wrong with the suspension itself.

Note: Before opening up the motor I thoroughly washed it with soap/water and then blasted it with a pressure washer. My idea was that under this worst case scenario I would want to see how much water gets inside the motor (or at least past the bearings) as I will be opening it anyway so I could dry it out. The funny part is there was absolutely no moisture anywhere inside the motor or past the bearings, so nothing I could have done during ownership would have caused this inside the motor.

 

 

 

And in these images, you can see there is rust/corrosion on the laminated core as well as rub marks on the magnets from where they are making contact of some sort.