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1 hour ago, Paul A said:

Don't push down with toes, it doesn't do much at all.

If one puts the weight on the toes (standing on them) one has put ones center of gravity as far forward as possible.

1 hour ago, Paul A said:

Just lean forwards as far as possible

Leaning forward is just to compensate wind drag and acceleration. Leaning only creates torque on the wheel if one uses pads. Otherwise one has on the pedal just a "loose" connection which does not transfer any torque by leaning.

Expressed other way round -  leaning without pads is only shifting the weight over ones toes - no difference to standing on ones toes. Just looks a little bit different.

The "extra" lean angle is again just to compensate wind drag and acceleration.

2 hours ago, 2disbetter said:

Is this EUC rider noob issues? 

 

2 hours ago, 2disbetter said:

I mean I had arms forward and was pushing down on my toes, just would not accelerate

If one pushes ones bud backwards while the arm is forward and pushes down on ones toes, one won't generate any significant forward torque.

One always tries to keep ones body balanced to prevent falling - we train this since we are born. So it is "unnatural" to put one in a unbalanced situation and trust some external device - this takes time to train.

Maybe this standing on the toes to accelerate and leaning forward with a _straight_ body (not just the arms) to compensate acceleration and wind drag could prevent the body from trying to balance and move unintentionally the cog back again...

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2 hours ago, Paul A said:

Just lean forwards as far as possible.

Well, that’s a recipe for disaster, like we saw in the V13 overlean about a month ago.

Use your hip. Move your hip forward to accelerate, that way you can’t not accelerate on an EUC.

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1 hour ago, Paul A said:

Yes, accelerate as fast as possible, and crash.

At least video it and earn the YouTube $ per view.

Only thing missing is wheel yelling "do you want a happy ending?"

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10 hours ago, Forwardnbak said:

So far, DBOT won’t connect to my V13

IM app is a bit buggy and I can’t find where to set alarms yet in the new version. 

EUC Word have already basic support for V13, try it out. I personally never ride without 3rd app with alarms and logging on.  It's very easy to get carried away on such powerful and smooth wheels. I'm in no way fast rider, but I found myself recently "gliding" at 42 Km/h without even realizing it  on V12-HT, while normally I ride around 30 - 35 ...

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1 hour ago, Robse said:

Only thing missing is wheel yelling "do you want a happy ending?"

Well, you can always replace the default "Please be careful!" voice warning with it ... 🤣

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1 hour ago, HEC said:

Well, you can always replace the default "Please be careful!" voice warning with it ... 🤣

I haven't yet heard anyone replace theirs with 'Whoa there horsey !' and nor has anyone done Data out of Star Trek doing his 'exceeded normal parameters Captain !'

Lot of scope for creativity there. What about a simple Homer Simpson 'Doh !', which would never get annoying ;)

Edited by Cerbera
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12 hours ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Does anyone know why the power is limited on soft mode? I don't see why having some slack in the pedals needs reduced power.

Because coming back from that slack requires extra juice. 

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18 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

I'm not exactly sure but if i were to guess, that washer is to hold the piston from rotating when you tighten down the screw, without it i would say you may not be able to tighten down the screw without the piston turning on the inside and it may result in the treads being stripped out of the rebound dampener if the screw loosens up during use. Just a guess though, i'm not an engineer.

If you are missing one, it looks like a simple metric lock washer that you could get at most hardware stores.

This is exactly what happened. I put the washers on top of the case instead of inside, and now the threads are stripped and my brand new wheel needs repairs.

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2 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

I just keep turning it and nothing is happening. What do??

20230310_112854.jpg

are you trying to remove the motor? is the nut catching on the tool? tighten your dampener down if the height of it is too high for the tool to catch on the nut.

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1 minute ago, SquallLHeart said:

are you trying to remove the motor? is the nut catching on the tool? tighten your dampener down if the height of it is too high for the tool to catch on the nut.

the suspension is losing air. I need to put that washer in the picture on the other side.

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1 minute ago, A High Roller said:

the suspension is losing air. I need to put that washer in the picture on the other side.

the split washers belong on the dampeners.. but yes.. try what i mentioned.. or is the nut spinning?

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6 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

I just keep turning it and nothing is happening. What do??

Mine was a little stubborn, i had to take the tool and put it in my 1/2" cordless drill and spin it off with that because the shaft kept turning on the inside. Just make sure you don't use the drill to reinstall it or you will easily strip the threads and make sure its not cross threaded.

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11 hours ago, 2disbetter said:

Then I went out, and I just could barely get the wheel beyond 50 kph. I maxed at 60. I mean I had arms forward and was pushing down on my toes, just would not accelerate. But getting to 50 was like a bullet. 

From my experience learning, I hit a wall trying to pass 60kmh. The key for me was getting lower and learning to put the wheel behind you when leaning in. No amount of toe pushing will get you to go faster at those speeds and its more about where you place your body weight. You want to ease it forward until it's basically past the wheel and you'll unlock that 60+kmh speed.

Also make sure your tiltback cap option is unlocked on your v13. My buddy was stuck at 60kmh until he rode over 30km and had to manually unlock it

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I went and bought a drill. The nut holding the suspension in place will not budge. I'm throwing in the towel. I need a wheel technician in AZ to help me out. I am in full panic mode. I am sitting on a $4000 BRICK. DO NOT put your suspension washers in the wrong place. It will break your wheel.

Edited by A High Roller
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14 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

I went and bought a drill. The nut holding the suspension in place will not budge. I'm throwing in the towel. I need a wheel technician in AZ to help me out. I am in full panic mode. I am sitting on a $4000 BRICK. DO NOT put your suspension washers in the wrong place. It will break your wheel.

where in AZ are you? i got a buddy in Queen Creek..

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37 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

I went and bought a drill. The nut holding the suspension in place will not budge

So is the nut spinning or you cant turn it at all? Because if it is spinning you could remove the taillight and reach inside with some needle nose vise grips or some small pliers and hold the piston from turning. You would have to be careful not to crush or mark the tube though.

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11 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

So is the nut spinning or you cant turn it at all? Because if it is spinning you could remove the taillight and reach inside with some needle nose vise grips or some small pliers and hold the piston from turning. You would have to be careful not to crush or mark the tube though.

I'm gonna try it, although it might damage things even more, I need to ride this wheel TODAY. On the right side it's not moving at all, but the left I can hold the piston while turning the nut. I am in Deer Valley in Phoenix. If I can't get it working by next week then I will take it to Neltrek in Tucson.

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