INMOTION V12

[Freeforester]

7 hours ago, techyiam said:

Unfortunately, the pedal bolts on mine was soft, so the threads can get deformed very easily

Wasn’t this also the case with the receiving part of the chassis where the pedal hangers are fixed (ie the series of threaded holes where one may adjust the pedal height position), or were other screws also somewhat ‘soft’? 
 

Edited July 29, 2022 by Freeforester

[techyiam]

On 7/29/2022 at 10:48 AM, Freeforester said:

Wasn’t this also the case with the receiving part of the chassis where the pedal hangers are fixed (ie the series of threaded holes where one may adjust the pedal height position), or were other screws also somewhat ‘soft’? 
 

The only screws that were soft were the four screws on each side that allow pedal height adjustments. On each side, the 6 bolts that secure the hanger to the hub are fine. I didn't find any other screws soft.

The four threaded holes in the hanger that the pedals bolt to could be a touch soft too. But it is hard to say, because the deformed steel screws could have caused the deformity. 

Edited July 31, 2022 by techyiam

[techyiam]

Regarding temperature monitoring, I didn't know Inmotion V12 was so much more comprehensive and accurate than the Kingsong S18 and S22. I can get all those temperature readings on one panel on the onboard display.

[Dani0809]

Hello All,

 

Very new rider here coming from a ninebot e+ (for a month). I just got my v12 HT and was wondering if anyone can explain how the split ride mode works, how does speeding, breaking and even pedal sensitivity effect my ride feel.

Also if there is any suggestions on what I should set it on, OR should I just leave split ride mode off completely and stick to commute for now?

[techyiam]

42 minutes ago, Dani0809 said:

Also if there is any suggestions on what I should set it on, OR should I just leave split ride mode off completely and stick to commute for now?

Welcome to the euc world. 

For now while you are still very new to riding an euc, I would leave the split mode off.

You can set pedal sensitivity to 100% and then 50%. And choose whichever one you like more.

Enjoy your euc journey. 

[Waulnut]

1 hour ago, Dani0809 said:

Also if there is any suggestions on what I should set it on, OR should I just leave split ride mode off completely and stick to commute for now?

 

Pedal sensitivity affects the amount of tilt and power delivery to your wheel. 100% means the pedals stay firm and "hard" so riding input is more instantaneous. 0% means the wheel will be "soft" and pedals tilt more before getting power. It is something to try out yourself and feel it. This affects both forward and backwards equally. 

Split mode lets you choose whether you want firm pedals or soft pedals for acceleration/braking, both independent of each other. Example is, you might like a solid pedal with no tilting during acceleration, but want the wheel to tilt back a bit when you decelerate. Your split mode might be 100% acceleration, 70% braking. 

As you are pretty new, you can ignore split mode until you feel more comfortable. I personally like 75% acceleration and 70% braking. 

[techyiam]

Has anyone experimented with the following :        (WARNING: This simply procedure can make your V12 perform worse and be less stable.)

With the wheel off, press and hold down the power button.  Keep holding down the power button. Eventually (in less than 30 seconds or so), it will beep once and the shell will start to rotate on it's own (the euc stays stationary relative to the ground) . The rotation can be clockwise or anti clockwise, it doesn't matter. Continue to hold down the power button. It will beep two more times. After the 3rd beep, the euc will stay at its rotated orientation, and start to move relative to the ground. Release the power button. If the shell rotated backwards, it will now travel backwards, or vice versa. The euc will travel between 15 to 20 feet on it's own. Then the motor will no longer supply torque to the wheel for motion, but the euc still self-balances, and will returns to it's normal non-rotated orientation. 

[supercurio]

@techyiam could be a built-in controller/motor control self test procedure?

Since it's user accessible, I appreciate they put it behind a warning screen.

Cool find!

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, supercurio said:

@techyiam could be a built-in controller/motor control self test procedure?

Since it's user accessible, I appreciate they put it behind a warning screen.

Cool find!

Thanks.

Actually, there is no warning message given. The warning in my post is actually from me.

I have been experimenting with this procedure since March. I took a lot of risk. But then I was kind of desperate because my V12 was braking so poorly without brake pads. Additionally, I was getting death wobbles.

As it turns out, this procedure was what allow me to get rid of the death wobbles, and improved my braking. I was very surprised by this, because this does not involve hardware changes.

The reason I gave the warning is because among the many possible outcomes, only one is really good. The rest of the results range from poor to OK.

To get that good result, you have to go through the procedure, many times. Each time you have to assess whether the outcome is the one. If you missed it, you would to go through many times to find it again.

Also, should you do a "Leaning, Forwarding, Turning Calibration", you lose it all.

I didn't want to mention it before because I didn't know what the implications could be in the longer term. Moreover, the new driver board was to come. So I waited.  Now that everything seemed to have settled, and my V12 have never performed better, I didn't think it would as risky should somebody got curious and tried it out. Furthermore, I was curious whether others have been able obtain improvements in their V12 from using this procedure. 

 

[Waulnut]

Finally changed my board myself. Took me 5 hours 😅😅. I labeled most cables and sets of screws. I almost missed two screws for the front piece, but luckily I found where it was missing. 

Putting back on the pad was a bit tricky, but maybe I was just tired. 

The cables were numerous and pulling out the tabs was a bit tricky without yanking out the whole connector. I ended up using wooden toothpicks to unlatch it. The heatsink fin had a bent corner prob from delivery or something. Its a non-issue at least . 

Overall, after 1200 miles and some offroading, the wheel was clean inside and the heatsink was surprisingly clean as well.

Now I got to start testing it again until I feel comfortable it's solid. 

[techyiam]

An update on my V12 with the black driver board and firmware 1.16.9.

I have a few hundred km's on it since the board swap. The wheel continues to run cool. Everything seems to be working properly. No pedal dipping in turns. My settings don't change on its own. Braking is excellent. High speed cornering is intuitively natural, and fun At the hinge of the trolley handle, I can tell the locking mechanism for keeping the handle upright is wearing down. I have a touch over 5000 km's on this wheel. 

I have ventured out from bicycle routes somewhat. At the right time and place, I comfortably cruise between 55 - 65 km/h. This is just a natural occurrence because otherwise it would feel too slow on my V12. (Incidentally, that is the speed range @GoGeorgeGo  rides at on his EX20S.)  My V12 feels stable and planted. However, on windy days, I get knock around by the wind. It feels a bit nervous near 65 km/h with crosswinds. I think I could use a heavier wheel with more headroom above 65 km/h. Also, I think suspension could help with comfort. 

For basic bicycle route sections, with no traffic, and great sightlines, the speeds have gone up to about 40 to 50+ km/h. Travel time have come down significantly. I haven't done any official range test, but I feel range is still pretty good. It has gone down obviously, but it isn't crazy bad.

Without saying, I have put on more motorcycle gear.

Edited August 10, 2022 by techyiam

[vBlitz]

Hello, if a V12 is vibrating (a second) while changing direction (forward/backward) what does it means?

Is this the symptom of a failure somewhere?

I felt it when holding and moving the wheel by the trolley handle, just after getting the board replaced.

Edited August 12, 2022 by vBlitz

[Waulnut]

26 minutes ago, vBlitz said:

Hello, if a V12 is vibrating (a second) while changing direction (forward/backward) what does it means?

Is this the symptom of a failure somewhere?

I felt it when holding and moving the wheel by the trolley handle, just after getting the board replaced.

EUCs tend to have low torque, slow speed rumbling. If its vibrating really bad, it would be the board is loose I think. 

[vBlitz]

24 minutes ago, Waulnut said:

EUCs tend to have low torque, slow speed rumbling. If its vibrating really bad, it would be the board is loose I think. 

Thanks for the reply.

It was not vibrating at all before I got the board replaced, and I got my cutout less than 5km after that.

I'm trying to figure out what happened.

At this point it's either a bad installation or a failing/damaged board I guess.

Edited August 12, 2022 by vBlitz

[JMX]

Try OFFROAD mode if you are not in it - (mine was twitching / hunting / vibrating when seeking neutral at rest until I changed to this mode)

[vBlitz]

28 minutes ago, JMX said:

Try OFFROAD mode if you are not in it - (mine was twitching / hunting / vibrating when seeking neutral at rest until I changed to this mode)

I was in off-road mode already.

I can't try anything anymore since the wheel is dead with probably blown MOSFETs. Can't open it yet since I'm waiting for the insurance.

Thanks for the suggestion.

[techyiam]

9 minutes ago, vBlitz said:

Can't open it yet since I'm waiting for the insurance.

Why can't you use the warranty service?

[vBlitz]

12 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Why can't you use the warranty service?

I used the warranty service to get the new board. When I got my second cutout they put the blame on me, or the road and refuse to accept a mechanical/electronic failure.

They are in bad faith, and say I lost control and the MOSFETs blown due to over demand during the fall.

So at the moment I'm with a dead wheel and a broken arm, waiting for the responses from my insurance and my retailer who want to earn nothing for weeks...

[techyiam]

5 minutes ago, vBlitz said:

I used the warranty service to get the new board. When I got my second cutout they put the blame on me, or the road and refuse to accept a mechanical/electronic failure.

They are in bad faith, and say I lost control and the MOSFETs blown due to over demand during the fall.

So at the moment I'm with a dead wheel and a broken arm, waiting for the responses from my insurance and my retailer who want to earn nothing for weeks...

Very sorry to hear that.

Did you install the black driver board yourself?

Also, if you didn’t, are you able to take out the driver board and check for shorts between the mosfets  and the heat sink?

Which dealer did you buy it from?

 

[vBlitz]

3 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Very sorry to hear that.

Did you install the black driver board yourself?

Also, if you didn’t, are you able to take out the driver board and check for shorts between the mosfets  and the heat sink?

Which dealer did you buy it from?

 

Nope, my retailer took me an appointment in Belgium to get the board replaced by a professional.

I had my cutout and got hospitalised over there.

I'm scared to open the wheel and to compromise it in the case my insurance would want to inspect it. And for now I can't use my left arm so I'm physically incapable of doing so, still doing rehab.

I live in northern France and bought the wheel to High'tems through Mobility Urban store.

[techyiam]

2 minutes ago, vBlitz said:

Nope, my retailer took me an appointment in Belgium to get the board replaced by a professional.

I had my cutout and got hospitalised over there.

I'm scared to open the wheel and to compromise it in the case my insurance would want to inspect it. And for now I can't use my left arm so I'm physically incapable of doing so, still doing rehab.

I live in northern France and bought the wheel to High'tems through Mobility Urban store.

I see. In that case, do what you think is best.

Just curious, did you have a chance to look at the new warranty replacement board before it was installed? The new driver board should be black, and the old original board should be blue. 

I hope you have a quick and full recovery. 

 

[vBlitz]

5 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I see. In that case, do what you think is best.

Just curious, did you have a chance to look at the new warranty replacement board before it was installed? The new driver board should be black, and the old original board should be blue. 

I hope you have a quick and full recovery. 

 

Thanks.

 

I saw the board quickly, and all I know it's that it did not came preinstalled on the heat sink like lastest boards. But the retailer assured me it was 130v MOSFETs.

[Denny Paul]

On 8/12/2022 at 11:16 AM, vBlitz said:

Hello, if a V12 is vibrating (a second) while changing direction (forward/backward) what does it means?

Is this the symptom of a failure somewhere?

I felt it when holding and moving the wheel by the trolley handle, just after getting the board replaced.

One of three possible things:

1) loose main axle nut. Most common in my experience. The one that attaches the axle to the motor. Takes a lot disassembly, a LOT of muscle/leverage and some red Loctite to fix properly. For what it’s worth, your situation fits the classic signs of a loose main axle nut. That’s what I’d bet money on.

2) loose motherboard, as someone has mentioned already

3) some other motherboard anomaly. You can start by ensuring your firmware is up to date as this is the easiest and cheapest to do. Then if 1) and 2) are completed and if not resolved still, consider replacing motherboard.

[Jumaxas]

What is the best and most universal tire pressure for inmotion v12ht, my weight is 90-100kg. 70% asphalt, 30% bumpy road... ? 

[techyiam]

50 minutes ago, Jumaxas said:

What is the best and most universal tire pressure for inmotion v12ht, my weight is 90-100kg. 70% asphalt, 30% bumpy road... ? 

I think 30 psi is usually a good starting point. The V12 HT has a 3.00-12 tire. That is a big tire, relatively speaking. Your rim shouldn’t dent, unless it is really bumpy and you are going fast.