okvp

Damn! It was cross sectional not diameter so need to correct the numbers. That 3,5^2mm vs 3^2mm means potentially 12,6% more current. If magnet width is directly proportional to torque 33mm -> 38mm is 15% more 33mm->40mm 21%. Begode Blitz is the first wheel I could replace my current KS22Pro with. I ride mostly on trails, enough travel and the possibility to change Chinese shock for a high-quality one means a lot. In addition, low weight, lower inertia and adequate battery size. 14" rim And if you can fit a Shinko 241 in that... In terms of performance, the wheel looks good. Test drives will tell the truth later.

Four stanchions on the corners also means that the structure which supports the motor have to be quite thin, probably like the s22 motor mount but longer. How good is the lateral support of the motor?

Four stanchions which of two seem to have a damping system. That blue rear handle is probably a trolly. Pedals look odd. Battery boxes seems to be extruded like S16-S22.

Those are not racing boots, those looks like a normal flimsy sport boots. TCX racing line is very similar as others Alpinestars, SIDI etc. Inclined and raised narrow heel, plastic enforced sole. Very good protection and strong plastic hinge which makes possible to move the ankle right way, but also offers good lateral support. But they are also quite uncomfortable to stand on pedals. https://www.tcxboots.com/us/en/road/racing-2/

No, racing (asphalt circuit boots), what i have seen or own Alpinestars Supertech, Sidi etc and Gaerne GP1 (pic), all have quite narrow, bit lifted and inclined rear heel section and smooth slippery sole. Motorcycle is ridden ball of the foot on the track, so heel part is just for safety, sole is contact on very coarse short foot peg, so its durable quite hard plastic. Racing boots are not waterproof, liner just adds weight and prevents ventilation. My Gaernes are laterally very stiff and equipped with a hinge, but so are these new Gianni Avantour 2 and they both weight the same What I don't like racing boots is narrow heel and slippery sole (for trail riding, some times you also have to walk slippery trail section), Inside the shoe bottom insert is hard and quite uncomfortable for a longer ride. My Gaernes have asymmetric and pointy contact points for pads. Giannis are more comfortable flat and bigger from bottom, also the grip is better. Both boots are eu size 43

That chart tells you motorcyclist's average accidents on the average road with average (flimsy) motorcycle boots. Try to ride mx or enduro with normal motorcycle boots and you will notice why mx boots are so stiff and well protected... quite a few euc riders with broken ankles have been seen on social feed, good ankle-supporting shoes could have saved them...

I fractured my ankle (not EUC related), the usual/ easy one weber B type, but it took months to fully recover and now after eight months It still is swollen, so never again! I started look for boots which have true lateral support for ankle, but allows the ankle to move forward and backward and sole to bent. Motorcycle Shoes have many protective features, but lateral support is usually lacking. In practice, good lateral support means a hinge built into the shoe so that the ankle can move forward and backward. Many of the protective boots are also too big for EUC use. Short-shafted shoes do not offer support enough. MX-shoes offer good support and protection, but sole does not flex at all and they are too big on the outside. Enduro shoes also protect well and have a flexy and quite good grippy sole, but they are quite big and bulky. Racing shoes (circuit) provide good support, protection and they are small, but the sole is not grippy enough and it is quite narrow, in addition, the Gaerne racing shoes I own, have an asymmetric shaft, which makes braking and acceleration against the pads uncertain. Adventure shoes are between an enduro and a street shoe. Most of the available adventure shoes have too flimsy shaft and do not offer much lateral support. I found three EU-available adventure boot that have a good lateral support (hinge): Alpinestars Toucan gtx Sidi Adventure 2 GT Gianni Falco Adventure 2 Alpinestars are hinged just on one side, so the lateral support on the other side is weaker. Sidi's are bulky externally. But Gianni Avantour 2 felt good for EUC use. Good support, light and compact, suitable size and grippy enough sole for trail riding. The shaft of the shoe is symmetrical, suitable for pads, and Leatt's guards fit comfortably inside. The shoe is waterproofed with a membrane, which means it is most likely hot in the summer, you can cut the membrane off the shaft, which might give you a little more ventilation. After a couple of test trips, the shoes seems to be good for EUC use, long-sole offroad sneakers would probably have a better riding feel, but they don't protect the ankle. Pic Gianni Avantour 2 Adventure and Gaerne racing shoes

Ditch the original pads (which are quite bad ergonomically) from S22/pro and it's 3-4cm narrower. Add L-shape pad extensions on it's sides and you can use aftermarket pads without increasing the wideness. S22/pro is only 2-3kg heavier than s19. It has bigger battery, torque and better suspension. Speakers are the only thing that are better in S19 and it is only 300€ cheaper than s22 pro...

City Grip 2 is actually 2,6kg but it's tubeless, so around 0,2kg weight saving if you go tubeless. Original knobby tyre is 2,1 kg + tube 0,2kg. It's also much wider than the original knobby 87mm vs. 73mm I have S22 pro, the original tire was bad especially in tighter turns, due to the flat profile it 'falls' to the side when turning (compared to Citygrip 2). I changed it to a Michelin City Grip 2 street tire, which is much more predictable in tight turns due to the round street tyre profile and stiff frame. However, I needed more grip on the trails and changed it to a Shinko SR 241 (which many has recommended). It is a so-called dual sport knobby tire (a round profile and a stiffer frame compared to traditional knobby). It has a good grip on the trails! In tighter turns it 'falls' on it's side, but much more predictably (than original flat profile knobby) and the rider learns to compensate it. It is not that sharp on the corners like the street tyre, but easier to corner at higher speeds (turning requires less rider input). It is also less prone to train tracking and not so wobble sensitive that street tyre. In my opinion, Shinko SR241 is the best compromise for a mixed street and trail riding. It also has a sister tire SR244 with larger knobbies. I haven't tried 244 myself.

+ Higher voltage enables a higher top speed and also faster charging. + more Wh 3000 + With curved magnets, the effective distance between the rotor and stator can be slightly shorter. The magnetic force is inversely proportional to the square of the distance, even a small distance may have a significant effect. + functional looking pads and pedals - Higher voltage, taller battery arrangement taller wheel, higher CG and added weight - 'proprietary' Chinese shock, probably because Begode didn't want to make curved linkages (costs???) or enforced mount. Harder switch to a good 'brand' shock

I don't think it's due the current, wires and connectors are beefy. All three wires has the same current going on but only with yellow there has been couple reported faults. The yellow wire is first wire on the row and there are hall sensors connector and wires just next to it, it has to be pressed carefully and firmly in, otherwise it might not get completely in the connector. That can happen especially during high paced wheel assembly process.

That's most likely due poorly made connection which is creating high resistance connection https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_resistance_connection Some one working on the assembly line has had a hangover day...

Ok! then at 10,1C you can draw out 14,4A but when temperature drops huge 0,2 degrees to 9.9 C you can draw only 2,4A errr....

I don't think that temperature/ current recommended limit is actually that small From data sheet in Celsius. -20 … +10°C: 2400 mA (2,4 A) +10 … +25°C: 14400 mA (14,4 A) +25 … +55°C: 7200 mA (7,2 A) If it's 2,4A for -20C/ -4F it must be much more for +10C / 50 F... Those data sheets are quite crappy, I don't know if there is actually a drop when going below freezing point or is that amperage value more linear from -20 (2,4A) to +25 (14,4 A).

Longer suspension travel is not just for the jumpers. With motorcycles, the suspension travel varies quite much. Street bikes, approx. 120mm, Gravel bikes and heavy enduros 250mm, racing enduros and motocross more than 300mm. So it depends lot on the purpose of use. On a more difficult trail the bike stays in control much more easily with a good longer travel suspension. Wasn't the V14 marketed as a trail wheel and it has a 50% shorter suspension travel than competitors... Good thing is that the Chinese damper can be changed to to quality unit and on asphalt and smoother surfaces, travel doesn't matter that much. Also there are aftermarkets kits (not cheap) probably coming at least for Extreme and Master there is a 150mm suspension kit under development.