SuperSport Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Cool Video! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Were you able to carefully remove the glue residue and see what ID code is on the sensors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 6 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Were you able to carefully remove the glue residue and see what ID code is on the sensors? Sorry I did not get back to you on that! I tried all types of solvents: acetone, mineral spirits, goo b gone, but unfortunately the epoxy they used is really stuck on! I thought about slowly grinding away the epoxy this morning. It would be great to know which sensor they used! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electric_vehicle_lover Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 10 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Sorry I did not get back to you on that! I tried all types of solvents: acetone, mineral spirits, goo b gone, but unfortunately the epoxy they used is really stuck on! I thought about slowly grinding away the epoxy this morning. It would be great to know which sensor they used! Let me share pictures of EUC motors: - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor-EUC1 - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor-EUC2 - https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/Motor-MicroWorks-500W-30km-h Isn't possible to use the spare holes?? If please note that the space between the hall sensors should be the same as original. I am not sure on this but I believe hall sensors are just used on very low speeds and for changing direction, after than that, the firmware will switch to an observer and ignore hall sensors signals - there are some advantages, like avoid any possible problem with all sensors when going at high speed, since at very low speed should be not big issue. Unfortunately I do not have any good idea to resolve your current issue, other than what others already told: remove the hall sensor and replace with a new one (like the references talked before). I think they are "kind" of compatible with most of them. If the signals are just use for slow speed, there should be no issue for the firmware to have ones that differs a bit between them. I really love all the information you are sharing!! IMO, the power cables insulation against high heat are the best improvement. About board temperature, at least MicroWorks board reads the temperature and protects the system with it goes high: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/MicroWorks-30B4-30kmh-controller-board-with-bluetooth#Max_temperature_protection Good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 17 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I am learning a lot about Hall Effect Sensors but I have not been able to locate the exact sensor yet. Hopefully tomorrow. A Gotway representative did email me with a quick note for me to contact the seller. Nice! I don't think The Green Fashion Travel Shop will be of much assistance locating the proper sensor but I emailed them anyway. No response yet. I did find out that the sensors used in the GW ACM are considered 'Latched'. I am not sure about other wheels but I assume they would be identical. Here is a nice little video explaining how these sensors work. If you want to live dangerously and maybe do some useless work (in case they don't work correctly), you could try replacing the hall-sensors with the latched US1881's mentioned in the video. Datasheet: https://www.melexis.com/-/media/files/documents/datasheets/us1881-datasheet-melexis.pdf TO-92U US1881EUA in Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=US1881EUA-AAA-000-BU&v=413 ($0.97 per piece, price-break @ 10 or more $0.851 per piece) TO-92U US1881LUA in Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=US1881LUA-AAA-000-BU&v=413 ($0.95 per piece, price-break @ 10 or more $0.84 per piece) At a quick glance on the datasheet, the only difference between the E- and L-models would seem to be the allowed operating temperature, -40...+85 degrees Celcius for the E-model, -40...+150 degrees Celcius for the L-model. Why the higher temperature model is cheaper, I have no idea. Maybe they buy them in bigger bulks and can sell then at a lower price? Anyway, you could get 5 pieces for $4.75 or 10 pieces (at the pricebreak) for $8.40, didn't check how much the shipping is. Probably they're available elsewhere too, at roughly the same prices (I ordered mine from Aliexpress, where they are cheaper, but you probably won't want to wait that long: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-pcs-U18-US1881-OH188-1881-hall-element-sensor-switch-IC/1902951183.html 10 pieces @ $1.50, probably the lower temperature range model or even knockoffs ). I'd still suggest getting at least one spare in case something goes wrong with soldering or miswiring, or gluing or whatever. I have no idea how "standard" the pinout for hall-sensors is, for example in the US1881's and A3144E's I have the pinout is not the same. Luckily, since all the sensors use the same power lines (VCC and GND), it should be relatively easy to see which is which: The red wires bundled together are likely the VCC, and the bundled black wires are GND. Nevermind the 10K resistor in the picture (it's the pullup I mentioned earlier, you won't need that), this shows the sensor pins from the text-side. Judging by this and your photo, it would seem the pinout is the same as the originals (although depending on which way they're inserted in the motor). Just make sure that the signal wires (yellow, green and blue going to the "digital OUT"-pins) are in same order as in the original. For tips on the actual attachment, refer to the PDF that @Hunka Hunka Burning Love posted earlier: https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HubMotorHallSensorReplacement.pdf Do note that you'll likely need to separate the stator and the rotor. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 9 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said: Let me share pictures of EUC motors: Thank you! Really helpful! 9 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said: Isn't possible to use the spare holes?? If please note that the space between the hall sensors should be the same as original. Thanks! The 3 hall sensor holes were marked for appropriate reassembly. 3 hours ago, esaj said: If you want to live dangerously and maybe do some useless work (in case they don't work correctly), you could try replacing the hall-sensors with the latched US1881's mentioned in the video. Live dangerous? Did I mention this will become my wife's wheel? Many thanks for all of the great information! I ordered the US 1881 through SparkFun Electronics but cancelled the order earlier today. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9312 The US1881 meets all of the specs I have been looking for ( i.e., latched, correct operation voltage and temperature range, size , etc) but is not 'Bipolar' which, through my research, is an important part of the switching capabilities. I am still wrapping my head around all of this but here is a video that explains the bipolar functionality. I ordered the Honeywell SS466A sensor. http://www.jameco.com/z/SS466A-Honeywell-Hall-Effect-Sensor-20mA-Bipolar-Latch-5-Volt9-Volt12-Volt15-Volt18-Volt24-Volt-3-Pin-Bag_1915915.html Really hope I made the right choice! The 6 sensors (in case I screw up big time ) will arrive next Tuesday. I purchased high temp epoxy for the install. Many thanks to everyone that has contributed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 21 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Live dangerous? Did I mention this will become my wife's wheel? You, sir, are a brave person indeed Quote Many thanks for all of the great information! I ordered the US 1881 through SparkFun Electronics but cancelled the order earlier today. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9312 The US1881 meets all of the specs I have been looking for ( i.e., latched, correct operation voltage and temperature range, size , etc) but is not 'Bipolar' which, through my research, is an important part of the switching capabilities. I am still wrapping my head around all of this but here is a video that explains the bipolar functionality. Well, I still don't know much about the differences between unipolar vs. bipolar, but in this case, I'm not sure if the 1881's would have been "wrong" (might be?). The problem is this: if you look at the US1881 datasheets, it states: The CMOS technology makes this advanced technique possible and contributes to smaller chip size and lower current consumption than bipolar technology. Except... it's not talking about whether the sensor is unipolar or bipolar, it talks about the transistor technology used (complementary MOS = CMOS vs. bipolar junction transistors = BJTs). As I (so far) understand the term "unipolar" or "bipolar" when it comes to hall-sensors, is that whether it reacts to the north- or south-pole or both, but that could be wrong (I still haven't read much about them). The "latching" action is pretty clear, it means it works like a Schmitt-trigger, meaning there's a "dead zone" between the turning on and turning off to prevent oscillation near the triggering levels... Without Schmitt-triggering, the output will go high/low as the signal passes the Vcenter. With Schmitt-triggering, there are separate Vtrigger high- and low thresholds, so the output won't shoot up and down when the input signal picks up interference etc. from the environment and the output is "clean". 21 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: I ordered the Honeywell SS466A sensor. http://www.jameco.com/z/SS466A-Honeywell-Hall-Effect-Sensor-20mA-Bipolar-Latch-5-Volt9-Volt12-Volt15-Volt18-Volt24-Volt-3-Pin-Bag_1915915.html Really hope I made the right choice! The 6 sensors (in case I screw up big time ) will arrive next Tuesday. I purchased high temp epoxy for the install. Many thanks to everyone that has contributed! It certainly sounds right (bipolar and latch), so probably a better choice than "guessworking" with the US1881's Getting spares is always a good idea. Typically, when I order spares, everything goes well. If I don't order spares, I'll destroy that one single critical connector/IC/whateverpart in the worst possible moment... Guess there's some amendment for Murphy's law for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 12 hours ago, Rehab1 said: Sorry I did not get back to you on that! I tried all types of solvents: acetone, mineral spirits, goo b gone, but unfortunately the epoxy they used is really stuck on! I thought about slowly grinding away the epoxy this morning. It would be great to know which sensor they used! Maybe a little heat will persuade it to get molten enough to be gently removed.... Think CIA/FBI man! What would they do to expose the clue? You probably already know, but maybe be sure to secure the sensors with something easy to remove to allow testing before epoxying. Again if I had a nickel for every time I did a full-on commit and then had to take it all apart, I'd have as many wheels as Marty. Actually, I had to repair my Koss Portapro headphones the other day as the sound was cutting out on one side even thought they sent me a replacement. I ordered a 3.5mm jack off AliEx, followed the Youtube instructions to melt the wires (geez they are getting so cheap these days with no insulators and just coating the frail hairs of wire in some sort of paint insulator), scrape them, and solder to the jack. That was not easy in itself. Sure enough I placed the strain relief coil onto the wire before the jack cover so I had to cut it all off and redo it. The coil is meant to slide into the cover so the cover goes on first. Duh... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 1 hour ago, esaj said: It certainly sounds right (bipolar and latch), so probably a better choice than "guessworking" with the US1881's Getting spares is always a good idea. Typically, when I order spares, everything goes well. If I don't order spares, I'll destroy that one single critical connector/IC/whateverpart in the worst possible moment... Guess there's some amendment for Murphy's law for that. Time will tell if I made the right choice. The little buggers are sure cheap! Anxious me they are being shipped 2 day air which cost 3x the product By the time the wheel is finally back together I will Bipolar Meds anyone? 30 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Maybe a little heat will persuade it to get molten enough to be gently removed.... Think CIA/FBI man! What would they to do expose the clue? Is this enough persuasion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 While you're waiting, I wonder if you can carve a little of the plastic away from the sensor to expose the leads? Maybe you can test for yourself how they behave like in that video you posted to clarify their characteristics. Do you have a breadboard and some magnets? You can maybe verify that it is latching/bipolar/homeopathic/whatever just to be on the safe side? I doubt installing the wrong type of sensor would create an issue for the control board, but the wheel might not function correctly. Do you have any ideas of how you will maybe reinforce and protect the legs of the new sensors, or are you going to directly wire to them a la Gotway style? I wonder if soldering them to a header and securing the header somehow would allow you to solder to the header pins instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 33 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: By the time the wheel is finally back together I will Bipolar Meds anyone? I've never been "officially" diagnosed as bipolar, but the signs are there... x) Always "funny" when reading about electronics, bipolar this and that @Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted 14 minutes ago (edited) · Report post While you're waiting, I wonder if you can carve a little of the plastic away from the sensor to expose the leads? Maybe you can test for yourself how they behave like in that video you posted to clarify their characteristics. Do you have a breadboard and some magnets? You can maybe verify that it is latching/bipolar/homeopathic/whatever just to be on the safe side? Homeopathic... how would that work? I doubt installing the wrong type of sensor would create an issue for the control board, but the wheel might not function correctly. Edited 12 minutes ago by Hunka Hunka Burning Love One of the "worst" scenarios I could think of would be the board reading the sensor wrong and pushing one of the coil-pairs into full duty cycle to get the motor moving. Although, you'd think they'd have some logic to "back off" if the hall-sensors don't start changing states (ie. the wheel isn't turning) yet the current goes through the roof? OTOH, that could just mean that the wheel is stuck in some bump or whatever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 24 minutes ago, esaj said: One of the "worst" scenarios I could think of would be the board reading the sensor wrong and pushing one of the coil-pairs into full duty cycle to get the motor moving. Although, you'd think they'd have some logic to "back off" if the hall-sensors don't start changing states (ie. the wheel isn't turning) yet the current goes through the roof? OTOH, that could just mean that the wheel is stuck in some bump or whatever... Ooohh never thought of that. That could be bad. I wonder if the firmware is smart enough to maybe shut things down like when the wheel is lifted, and it goes to maximum speed? It would be interesting to find out what different hall effect sensors have on the motor function and balancing routines. I just thought maybe it would move the motor erratically like you see with some people's wheels that go a little berserk. Maybe during the boot up routine it does some sort of sensor check? Remember those people reporting problems with their 6 MOSFET ACM's dropping them randomly? People were suggesting they turn their wheels on and check that the balance routine was engaged before moving. I wonder what the source of the problem with that was? Homeopathic Hedgehog Therapy isn't an exact science, but with the right HHTTM sensors we can cure that bipolar condition and convert it into a multipolar condition. For a small fee. But wait, order now, and we'll throw in some Electroboom Shock Therapy treatments for free! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Just now, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Ooohh never thought of that. That could be bad. I wonder if the firmware is smart enough to maybe shut things down like when the wheel is lifted, and it goes to maximum speed? It would be interesting to find out what different hall effect sensors have on the motor function and balancing routines. Going over the maximum speed is (to my knowledge) voltage-related, ie. the back-EMF of the motor goes above the battery voltage or such. High current demand could just mean that the rider is leaning heavily forwards to force high acceleration or the wheel is stuck or just temporarily needs more power to get over a bump or going up steep hill or such. Although it has been mentioned many times in the forums that "the wheel should never shutdown", I believe there are situations (outside of situations like wrong hall-sensors or such ) where the mainboard just should (and with many wheels, does) give up and stop driving the motor. The downside is that the rider faceplants, but I'm talking about situations where the options are more like the rider faceplants or the rider faceplants and the mainboard burns due to too much current. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 1 hour ago, Rehab1 said: Time will tell if I made the right choice. The little buggers are sure cheap! Anxious me they are being shipped 2 day air which cost 3x the product By the time the wheel is finally back together I will Bipolar Meds anyone? Is this enough persuasion? the big red wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 The big red wrench is great for removing glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 12 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: While you're waiting, I wonder if you can carve a little of the plastic away from the sensor to expose the leads? Maybe you can test for yourself how they behave like in that video you posted to clarify their characteristics. Do you have a breadboard and some magnets? You can maybe verify that it is latching/bipolar/homeopathic/whatever just to be on the safe side? Took my darely wife out for dinner and missed a bunch of great dialogue Testing the characteristics of the existing and new hall sensors is a great idea! Carving away the encapsulting brittle material to expose the leads could be an option but may break the shell further. I may try a little abrasive disk on my Dremel. I have not used a breadboard for years. I use to have a Heathkit ET- 3100. Great little kit for experimenting. I loved that company. Per your advice I ordered a breadboard with leads, a variable dc power supply and some other sundry items. If I am going to experiment properly I might as well go all in. I needed the power suppy anyway for evaluating my fan. 12 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: I doubt installing the wrong type of sensor would create an issue for the control board, but the wheel might not function correctly. That's my worry 12 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Do you have any ideas of how you will maybe reinforce and protect the legs of the new sensors, or are you going to directly wire to them a la Gotway style? I wonder if soldering them to a header and securing the header somehow would allow you to solder to the header pins instead? I m hoping the new Honeywell sensors are of a higher quality and the leads are less fragile. I plan to install them GW style. 12 hours ago, esaj said: One of the "worst" scenarios I could think of would be the board reading the sensor wrong and pushing one of the coil-pairs into full duty cycle to get the motor moving. Full Duty 'Burning Rubber' type cycle? Awesome!! 11 hours ago, esaj said: I believe there are situations (outside of situations like wrong hall-sensors or such ) where the mainboard just should (and with many wheels, does) give up and stop driving the motor. The downside is that the rider faceplants, but I'm talking about situations where the options are more like the rider faceplants or the rider faceplants and the mainboard burns due to too much current. UGH! Going shopping for @EUC Extreme protective gear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 20 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Full Duty 'Burning Rubber' type cycle? Awesome!! Unfortunately, no. At least at slow speeds, the hall-sensors are used to detect the motor turning (position), and the mainboard then knows to switch the commutation forwards (ie. energize coils in different phase pair), like so: The problem is, if the motor doesn't start turning (stuck somehow), the same pair of coils stays energized, possibly with the mainboard logics ramping up the duty cycle to get more current going and to get the motor moving. A non-turning (locked/"stuck") motor is more like a short circuit when it comes to driving the same coil (phase) pair for a longer while (AFAIK, the induction of the coils limits the rate at which the current raises, but in the end, it becomes more like a small resistor), and the current will shoot through the roof, possibly burning mosfets or even overheating the coil wiring in the motor and burning the wire insulation. Similar situation happens at start up (when you get going from stand still) and when changing directions when "idling" or turning from going forwards to backwards or vice versa (at the point where the motor stops), except if the motor doesn't start moving one way or the other, something's going to give up (unless the mainboard logics backs off after somehow coming to the conclusion that the motor cannot be turned). That's the theory, but if you've seen how for example @electric_vehicle_lover abuses the motor while testing the firmware, it seems they're pretty hard to break on accident, and I'd expect the commercial versions to have at least some current limiting logic if the motor doesn't start turning (or burning the mosfets before the motor ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electric_vehicle_lover Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 From my experience, the boards protect themselves very well. They measure ba ttery voltage for have safe over and under battery voltages. They also measure motor current and this code should have max priority, meaning they detect early and cut the power to the motor in the case of short circuit or any bad hall sensor signal sequence - the boards I tested do beep when the hall sensors signals are incorrect even if the motor somehow run incorrectly. I think is very unlikely you will burn your board, motor or battery pack if you exchange the motor wires phases or hall sensors wires. I would test the hall sensors like this: power the board and with them connected I would measure the output signal of each one with a voltage multimeter, to make sure the signal changes polarity when getting near a magnet. Please look at my wiki were I have pictures of hall sensors signals. Need to unconnect the motor phases for this test, so the motor don't try to rotate. The board should beep but the power for the hall sensors will be always on. Finally try to put the same sequence of original hall sensors - on the same motor place and the same wire sequence on the board and the motor should rotate as original. Can you please take a picture of the microcontroller, so we can get the reference and compare with other board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 3 hours ago, Rehab1 said: . I have not used a breadboard for years. I use to have a Heathkit ET- 3100. Great little kit for experimenting. I loved that company. "HealthKit ET-3100" - a little Freudian Slip me thinks. I believe you do have a health problem HeathKit - that really brings back memories. I used to devour their catalogs when I was a kid (in the 70's), never being able to afford any of the projects. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 8 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: "HealthKit ET-3100" - a little Freudian Slip me thinks. I believe you do have a health problem HeathKit - that really brings back memories. I used to devour their catalogs when I was a kid (in the 70's), never being able to afford any of the projects. Funny!! YU might be right! What kits did you built? I remember building a Heathkit walkie talkie. I was so excited that I rushed the build and bridged 25% of the solder joints. I also built a shortwave radio and amplifier. Can you believe they were selling organs in a kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer" Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 13 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: "HealthKit ET-3100" - a little Freudian Slip me thinks. I believe you do have a health problem HeathKit - that really brings back memories. I used to devour their catalogs when I was a kid (in the 70's), never being able to afford any of the projects. Used to build heathkit projects who the old man. Do you remember going to test the tubes from the TV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperSport Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Loved the Heathkits, and yes, have done Tube Replacements. ? You guys just reminded me how old I am. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 7 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said: I would test the hall sensors like this: power the board and with them connected I would measure the output signal of each one with a voltage multimeter, to make sure the signal changes polarity when getting near a magnet. Please look at my wiki were I have pictures of hall sensors signals. Need to unconnect the motor phases for this test, so the motor don't try to rotate. The board should beep but the power for the hall sensors will be always on. Just to clarify, when the new sensors arrive connect the 3 legs to the appropriates wires on the harness, disconnect the motor wires (already done), make sure the sensors are oriented in the proper direction and then pass a magnet in front of them? Passing a magnet in front of the sensors should produce a beep on the board? I plan to perform a similar test on a bread board next week but I like your idea using the actual circuitry. Empirically is the ring of motor magnets oriented in the same direction (N or S)? 7 hours ago, electric_vehicle_lover said: Can you please take a picture of the microcontroller, so we can get the reference and compare with other board? These are the best photos I have of the board at the moment. If you need additional photos taken at closer range I can shoot them at work on Monday. Thanks! 4 hours ago, jrkline said: Used to build heathkit projects who the old man. Do you remember going to test the tubes from the TV? Oh yes! Hell I use to program IBM 360s. So glad I continued on with my current career. It. was hard working for my father and I almost quit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 I was curious about the latching specification so I looked up outrunner magnet orientation: With the photos you need to zoom into the tops of the chips to see the ID numbers... likely that larger square chip with the pins on all four sides... I helped assemble one of these which was fun. There are so many components to solder and put together. We didn't have the remote though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
electric_vehicle_lover Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 2 hours ago, Rehab1 said: Just to clarify, when the new sensors arrive connect the 3 legs to the appropriates wires on the harness, disconnect the motor wires (already done), make sure the sensors are oriented in the proper direction and then pass a magnet in front of them? Passing a magnet in front of the sensors should produce a beep on the board? I plan to perform a similar test on a bread board next week but I like your idea using the actual circuitry. Empirically is the ring of motor magnets oriented in the same direction (N or S)? These are the best photos I have of the board at the moment. If you need additional photos taken at closer range I can shoot them at work on Monday. Thanks! Passing a magnet in front of the sensors will make them change their output signals - them you can measure that signal. All this just for you to verify that they are working. If they are working and you connect them to the board, as the originals were, IMO there is high probability that EUC will work again perfectly. Board should beep when detects a problem like motor running incorrectly (over current, motor not running, etc) that should happen when it tries to drive the motor but it does not, when you disconnect the phase wires. You can find the orientation of magnets playing with another magnets and a magnetic compass. That pictures don't show the microcontroller reference. The boards like MicroWorks and others chinese alike, probably also GotWay, (including the hoverboards) use the STM32F103C8T6. Would be great if you could verify in your board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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