Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh

[Rawnei]

46 minutes ago, jimjam.nyc said:

There are a few videos already out there.. From sherman S and Patton. It a small "clunk" when the suspension has minor travel on uneven ground and small bumps. Its very minor. The convo I think started because some people had some small movement in the battery cases with ill fitted battery packs.. So the worry was this clunk was the battery packs bouncing around a little.. Turns out it is not that, and seems to be normal behavior.

Edit: its actually such a small deal that on my stock tire at 23psi I barely noticed it happening. Once I put a stiffer tire on is when I noticed it happening a lot more. It really is a very tiny nit picky thing that was more of a curiosity than an actual bother.

There's a bunch of different sounds not just one, there's some noise when suspension is working which seems normal, sometimes there is top-out sound specially if you have a lot of pre-load and then there are other type of sounds like plastic on plastic and perhaps others.

[Barefooter]

On 8/17/2023 at 2:09 PM, jimjam.nyc said:

Is there alot of play back and forth when you go from going fwd to back? Like if you try to rock the wheel back and forth, do you have alot of play inbetween? if so You may have lose axl/motor bolts. I am not sure if that would make noise like this or not.

Tangent...  What is 'alot of play' in this context.  I've got about 110 miles on mine and it has been a joy.  The only aspect i have a question about is there is a bit of a transition when going fwd/back.  There's a bit of sound but it's more of a feeling when just rocking it back and forth while not on it.  When on it I do not hear or notice it.  My guess is that's the nature of a suspension wheel.  It's different from my V8S which has no such transition feel.

[Critzlez]

On 7/31/2023 at 5:43 PM, Austin said:

I'm not sure the if these are the right size, they were a tiny bit tight, but my screws came out on like the third ride I did and replaced them with these. They've been working great for the last month though.

 

 

On 7/30/2023 at 5:02 PM, unicycle bunny said:

Hey guys, what bolt size do we have on the Patton for the headlight? 

i believe the correct bolt size is M5 diameter as that’s the bolt size for the majority of the bolts

[mrelwood]

On 8/17/2023 at 9:54 PM, carlitos said:

Help! My Patton arrived a few hours ago and I just took it for a spin around the block and there is a noise but I can't figure out where it's coming from.

The video didn’t sound to me as if it were about a rubber touching anything. But if it were, having it repeat only at a short section of the rotation you might be able to fix it by manually centering the tire. Like this:

If that doesn’t affect the sound, you might have to look closer into the valve stem. Maybe remove the valve cap to see if it’s increased clearance removed or changes the sound. If that doesn’t fix it either, you might have a bearing alignment issue.

 

On 8/18/2023 at 6:02 AM, stizl said:

These controller board failures are from the design flaw of sending that 50A into the controller instead of the batteries.

All of the energy would have to go through the controller anyway. What’s the voltage rating on the mosfets?

It would make more sense to me that the issue were not be about the amount of energy stored in the batteries, but the temporary high current and/or voltage that is unavoidably present during regenerative braking.

But the BMS or at least the board should be very aware whether it’s charging from the charging connector or whether it’s riding and braking. On Inmotions (V11 & V12, probably V13 too) it even comes through different cables. I would expect for the over current/voltage protection to be removed only while riding, but not while charging. If they really remove it altogether, the “solution” would sound a bit lazy.

[Critzlez]

16 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

The video didn’t sound to me as if it were about a rubber touching anything. But if it were, having it repeat only at a short section of the rotation you might be able to fix it by manually centering the tire. Like this:

If that doesn’t affect the sound, you might have to look closer into the valve stem. Maybe remove the valve cap to see if it’s increased clearance removed or changes the sound. If that doesn’t fix it either, you might have a bearing alignment issue.

 

All of the energy would have to go through the controller anyway. What’s the voltage rating on the mosfets?

It would make more sense to me that the issue were not be about the amount of energy stored in the batteries, but the temporary high current and/or voltage that is unavoidably present during regenerative braking.

But the BMS or at least the board should be very aware whether it’s charging from the charging connector or whether it’s riding and braking. On Inmotions (V11 & V12, probably V13 too) it even comes through different cables. I would expect for the over current/voltage protection to be removed only while riding, but not while charging. If they really remove it altogether, the “solution” would sound a bit lazy.

The patton uses mosfet G065N15, rated to 150V/165A. It has another serial which is a2j00ns1a which i believe is the sub model 

Edited August 20, 2023 by Critzlez

[carlitos]

On 8/17/2023 at 8:54 PM, carlitos said:

Help! My Patton arrived a few hours ago and I just took it for a spin around the block and there is a noise but I can't figure out where it's coming from. Can't be heard while free spinning. Only when riding it. The faster I go the more frequent.

It's the 66LB version and I weight about 75Kg last time I checked.

If anybody can give any pointers as to where to check or what to wiggle, that would be awesome.

 

I removed the mudguard completely and went for a test ride and the noise is completely gone.

The guarantee in the booklet that comes with the wheel does not talk about plastic parts but I hope I can get a solution from factory for this problem. I'm in touch with the vendor. Let's see what happens.

Here's the video of the ride from just now

[Freeforester]

 Any obvious signs of anything repeatedly ‘cycling’ on the underside of the mudguard?

[carlitos]

5 minutes ago, Freeforester said:

 Any obvious signs of anything repeatedly ‘cycling’ on the underside of the mudguard?

It's hard to see because it's night time here but there are indeed rubbing signs on the mudguard.

I won't be able to work on the wheel this upcoming weeks but I hope that by reinstalling the mudguard, this time around the noise would be gone. Otherwise maybe a new mudguard would do

[Rawnei]

On 7/21/2023 at 7:05 AM, Al Alcatraz said:

I took the stereo plug together with the cable from the original headlight.

But in case you want to use your own stereo plug I found this instruction useful:

The yellow cable in this example is in the original cable white. It's obviously for the beeper.

Question, I'm building my own light mount and using original cable that I cut but I have problem with the beeper, first it seems beeper only sounds on reverse polarity but even so it doesn't beep as it should, only "half" beep also when using menu with light on light flickers when reverse polarity, something doesn't seem right, beeper works fine tested from 12v power source.

How did you connect everything? Beeper black to? Beeper red to?

[Freeforester]

On 8/20/2023 at 10:02 PM, carlitos said:

It's hard to see because it's night time here but there are indeed rubbing signs on the mudguard.

I won't be able to work on the wheel this upcoming weeks but I hope that by reinstalling the mudguard, this time around the noise would be gone. Otherwise maybe a new mudguard would do

Thanks, I don’t really see anything significant or indicative of a repeating contact on the mudguard; have you inspected the inner casings of the batteries?

[carlitos]

On 8/20/2023 at 10:35 PM, carlitos said:

I removed the mudguard completely and went for a test ride and the noise is completely gone.

The guarantee in the booklet that comes with the wheel does not talk about plastic parts but I hope I can get a solution from factory for this problem. I'm in touch with the vendor. Let's see what happens.

Here's the video of the ride from just now

Good news. I heard back from the factory. The proposed solution worked like a charm. Pull the mudguard over the kickstand's crossbar and leave it to shape for half an hour. Then bring it back to its original place.

I did it like that and now my mudguard looks like @OliG and the noise is completely gone.

I wish I had gotten that instruction before being instructed to remove the mudguard because that would have saved me tons of work. The flip side is that now I am a hell of a lot more confident in gutting the wheel.

I hope this video can be of help for those who might have the same issue.

[carlitos]

11 hours ago, Freeforester said:

Thanks, I don’t really see anything significant or indicative of a repeating contact on the mudguard; have you inspected the inner casings of the batteries?

I did inspect the mudguard and as per the picture (although it's really hard to see), it was the tire that was rubbing on the mudguard. Also if you see the picture posted by @OliG the margin between the mudguard and the tire on his wheel was a hell of a lot bigger than in mine.

[OliG]

5 hours ago, carlitos said:

I did inspect the mudguard and as per the picture (although it's really hard to see), it was the tire that was rubbing on the mudguard. Also if you see the picture posted by @OliG the margin between the mudguard and the tire on his wheel was a hell of a lot bigger than in mine.

Exactly. Happy you solved the issue easily, thanks for sharing the solution 👍🏻

[DjPanJan]

I read is new patton firmware i can tfind more info. I read reddit and not find any important somebody tested it? 

[OliG]

7 hours ago, DjPanJan said:

I read is new patton firmware i can tfind more info. I read reddit and not find any important somebody tested it? 

Hello,

The only information I have regarding a new firmware, is the availability of a patch for some Patton that had a problem with the power button.  On some Patton the power button has a sensitivity problem. When you press it, the wheel doesn't power on, and if you keep pressing it, you switch to transport mode deactivation, even though the wheel is already deactivated. 

The update process is quite simple and fast:
Turn on wheel on stand
Launch app, find wheel, go to parameters, check update available, start update, roughly 30 seconds, at the end of the process the wheel restart automatically. 

[DjPanJan]

5 hours ago, OliG said:

Hello,

The only information I have regarding a new firmware, is the availability of a patch for some Patton that had a problem with the power button.  On some Patton the power button has a sensitivity problem. When you press it, the wheel doesn't power on, and if you keep pressing it, you switch to transport mode deactivation, even though the wheel is already deactivated. 

The update process is quite simple and fast:
Turn on wheel on stand
Launch app, find wheel, go to parameters, check update available, start update, roughly 30 seconds, at the end of the process the wheel restart automatically. 

Thx for info i keep my FW i no have any of listed problems my power buton work how i expected.

Is FW flash on Paton retrospective like on KS eucs? Can i go back to "old" FW after flashing new one?

If is not reversible i no plan update ever only if lepaerkim add new features or bugfixes what is impoprtant for me.

[OliG]

2 hours ago, DjPanJan said:

 

Is FW flash on Paton retrospective like on KS eucs? Can i go back to "old" FW after flashing new one?

 

No idea but interesting question 😉. Curious too to have the answer. 

[stizl]

On 8/24/2023 at 7:59 AM, DjPanJan said:

Is FW flash on Paton retrospective like on KS eucs? Can i go back to "old" FW after flashing new one?

21 hours ago, OliG said:

No idea but interesting question 😉. Curious too to have the answer. 

I don’t know for sure on the Patton or other Veteran wheels, but most devices that offer over-the-air firmware updates also have the ability to factory reset the device. In case of a faulty firmware update, this would restore the “known-good” firmware that the device shipped with.  
 

Skimming the forums here, this appears possible on at least some other makes/models. 

Edited August 25, 2023 by stizl

[davewood1982]

Hi guys what does this sound like to you, it's like a creaking noise only seems to happen when I accelerate or brake from a stand still, I can also recreate the noise from when I'm not stood on it by just grabbing the handles and rocking it backwards and forwards suddenly.

Iv checked all the screws are tight and secure that I can without taking it apart. Any ideas?

[Paradox]

Something caught it the wheel well? 

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, davewood1982 said:

Hi guys what does this sound like to you, it's like a creaking noise only seems to happen when I accelerate or brake

My guess is that the motor bolts are getting loose. It’s an issue we’ve seen before, several times. I would disassemble the wheel as soon as possible to apply Loctite and tighten the bolts good. If the bolts loosen more, the wheel will start to shake, which can easily snap the bolts. That is a disaster of a job to get them out, so sober you can check them the better.

 Of course, it can be a simpler one as well. Like loose pedals, suspension attachments, etc.

[davewood1982]

42 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

My guess is that the motor bolts are getting loose. It’s an issue we’ve seen before, several times. I would disassemble the wheel as soon as possible to apply Loctite and tighten the bolts good. If the bolts loosen more, the wheel will start to shake, which can easily snap the bolts. That is a disaster of a job to get them out, so sober you can check them the better.

 Of course, it can be a simpler one as well. Like loose pedals, suspension attachments, etc.

Thanks ill open her up in the next couple of days and have a closer inspection 🧐 , what colour loctite is recommended for the motor bolts? 

[Rollin-on-1]

2 hours ago, davewood1982 said:

Thanks ill open her up in the next couple of days and have a closer inspection 🧐 , what colour loctite is recommended for the motor bolts? 

Blue (medium strength).

[CalebKale]

Just had a friend of mine tear down his Patton, all 8 motor screws were loose!!! He decided to check when the whole wheel was shaking when standing still. Check your motor bolts if you haven't already and you have play in your wheel!

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, CalebKale said:

Just had a friend of mine tear down his Patton, all 8 motor screws were loose!!! He decided to check when the whole wheel was shaking when standing still. Check your motor bolts if you haven't already and you have play in your wheel!

That seems to be getting a bit common on the Patton, sadly.

 If the wheel starts to shake due to loose motor bolts, it does so against the bolts creating huge sideways forces. I wouldn’t trust the bolts after that. Besides, a snapped bolt can be a horrible PITA to take out. It’s not like replacements really cost anything either.

 Needless to say, if it starts to shake, turn it off immediately and don’t power it up again until you’ve checked the motor bolts.