First Five Days on Other Wheels: Now On to the V13

[Josiah]

anyone like or dislike this rounded tip style allen for getting to bolts at an angle?  I don’t know if the square tip allens are better to prevent stripping.

 

also looking at these types

 

 

Edited March 11, 2023 by Josiah

[Punxatawneyjoe]

10 minutes ago, Josiah said:

anyone like or dislike this rounded tip style allen for getting to bolts at an angle?  I don’t know if the square tip allens are better to prevent stripping.

Great for angles, yes they strip easier but i usually get the t-handle allens and you and use the T part for breaking them loose and spin them out with the ball end of the t handle.

 

Edited March 11, 2023 by Punxatawneyjoe

[Tawpie]

I have T-handled ball drivers, ultimately useful for things that aren't terribly tight (they'll slip on super tight things). I use a folding set and the bits as well.

[Josiah]

These look cool because there longer!

[Josiah]

Do I need a torque wrench for the motor bolts or can I gauge the tension with a normal socket wrench? Or even use the torque setting on my screw gun?

[Punxatawneyjoe]

3 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Or even use the torque setting on my screw gun?

Definitely don't do that. Yes, to do it properly , get a torque wrench. As far as the long allens are concerned , i wouldn't  use a cordless for any allens, that is what amateurs do for speed. You can easily round out/strip/break stuff.

Edited March 11, 2023 by Punxatawneyjoe

[Tawpie]

5 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Do I need a torque wrench for the motor bolts or can I gauge the tension with a normal socket wrench? Or even use the torque setting on my screw gun?

Torque wrench for sure. I think I saw 18 nm for the motor bolts on V13. You've probably seen where I've gone to VibraTite instead of locktite, mostly because it's undoable without heat, and it's plastic safe so I can use it everywhere.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

1 minute ago, Tawpie said:

I've gone to VibraTite instead of locktite,

the bolts sent already have a dab of locktite

[Tawpie]

4 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

the bolts sent already have a dab of locktite

I've noticed China has switched to pre-dabbed blue stuff—does anyone know what it actually is? It's not the classic branded Loctite because that 'cures' anaerobically after the threads are tightened... seems like it might be more like VibraTite, that product in a liquid needs to cure for 24 hours before assembly. If the blue stuff is just dried out plain Loctite, I don't know how well that works.

Edited March 11, 2023 by Tawpie

[Punxatawneyjoe]

4 minutes ago, Tawpie said:

If the blue stuff is just dried out plain Loctite,

Right, it's probably not "locktite". But it's already on there was my point. I'm not sure what it is and i guess i'm not familiar with VibraTite.

[Funky]

46 minutes ago, Josiah said:

These look cool because there longer!

I heard you like long things. "Wink-Wink" 

45 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Do I need a torque wrench for the motor bolts or can I gauge the tension with a normal socket wrench? Or even use the torque setting on my screw gun?

I haven't used torque wrench once in my life.  Simply "feel" how much force you need.. M4 bolts or so use 2 fingers on simple allen key to tighten them. Pedals screws go little bit ham. But not overboard. Make any screw go in till the end - and at the end one small push to seal the deal. (You can feel when the screw doesn't wanna go tighter/deeper.. Simply add little push after that and you are done.) Bigger screw - bigger strength. 

Haven't broken/stripped any bolt once. Same time nothing has gone "loose" while riding.. Loctite will keep it locked in place anyways..

Edited March 11, 2023 by Funky

[Josiah]

Operating room peeped, patient is sedated.  

Most of my actual tools are at my bathroom job. But I found some lying around the storage area. Went ahead and set up a workstation. Wish me luck.
 

[Josiah]

 

I have a good assistant today.

Edited March 12, 2023 by Josiah

[Josiah]

Big wires look sealed.  Do I need to get new sealant later for re attach? 

Edited March 12, 2023 by Josiah

[Punxatawneyjoe]

31 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Do I need to get new sealant later for re attach? 

I would clean the old silicone off the contact points and re-apply it after they are back on. It's to prevent any sort of corrosion on those terminals. They are your life line. Clear silicone should be fine.

[Tawpie]

Good to see you're making use of the camera... pictures of everything before each step will save the day.

BTW, how are you going to lose any screws if your workstation is that clean, neat and organized? Have you no sense of adventure?

[Josiah]

You guys probably saw this on the main thread that I hijacked today.  But I got pretty far with the wheel, and after all said and done besides the battery rebuild, I went and got the proper tools (for next time).

 

My main oops today was backing out a motor bolt into the shock piston, putting a small bolt head size dent into it.  Looks like that dent is outside the travel area of the inner part, so far it seems smooth.  Won’t know for sure until I ride it again.  God willing. 

 

 

Edited March 12, 2023 by Josiah

[Josiah]

Hard stuff is out of the way now on to the fun stuff @Cerbera’s recommendation.  
 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PMggnOp6fAY

 

[Josiah]

Have one mystery part I found on the floor.  It’s a rubber washer about the size of the lock washers from the suspension.

 

Could it have something to do with this loose dampener adjustment shaft? 
https://m.youtube.com/shorts/z-KjraS_rz0

Right side has up and down play on the shaft, left side is solid. 

Edit never mind that, the shaft firmed up after a few turns by hand.  

Edited March 12, 2023 by Josiah

[Cerbera]

Ah, the old 'something left over' quandary ! Just gotta find the other one ! Fortunately these things usually happen in pairs.

On the Master we have those as suspension stoppers, so I would guess something to do with suspension here too ?

Edited March 12, 2023 by Cerbera

[Josiah]

Kids toys are all over my work space maybe it’s a part to the toys.  Lol 

[Josiah]

 

ahh thanks @Cerbera your right I did find the other ones!  Trolley handle bracket washers.

[mrelwood]

15 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

As far as the long allens are concerned , i wouldn't  use a cordless for any allens, that is what amateurs do for speed. You can easily round out/strip/break stuff.

Professional repair shops don’t have time to unscrew manually. I think you should say instead that “Be careful though, since that is what amateurs use to round out/strip/break stuff.”

I have used power tools for practically all screws in all kinds of repairs for over a decade. Including e-guitar pickguard on wood etc. You just need a tool that has a stepless speed trigger.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

3 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Professional repair shops don’t have time to unscrew manually

They do when it comes to an intricate part with many small screws/bolts. I have been an auto mechanic for over 25 years and back in the day when you were rebuilding a carburetor, you weren't using an impact. people that use impact guns on small intricate screws/bolts do it for speed and in my opinion its "hack" work. But maybe amateur wasn't quite the best term to use. Even the biggest EUC has about 60 screws and i feel it's much smarter to use hand tools on something that small and intricate. Just my opinion though.

[Chocula]

The ball end should only be used when you can't fit a strait one in.  40 years of doing most of my own motorcycle maintence has made me a big fan of torqueing things to the proper spec.  Things vibrate loose much less when torqued properly.  I use a paint marker to draw a small line between the bolt and the surface that creates an easy visual indicator if the bolt ever moves.

There are click type torque wrenches available that are not that expensive and can be be surprisingly accurate, but they should be checked for accuracy and recalibrated if needed.  While not perfect, you can get close enough with a known about of weight, some string/cord, and a tape measure.