Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb

[Steve Evans]

18 hours ago, Steve Evans said:

guys,

 

whilst riding today i noticed a knock sound coming from the motor. 

 

seems to happen with each wheel rotation, but not always. manually pushing the wheel in a straight line, the sound seems to happen when the wheel is in a particular position.

 

a have a little over 350 miles on the wheel right now.

 

btw, i am no longer riding the sherman for fear of a cut-out.

 

what do you folks think that sound might be?

 

thanks,

steve

 

here is a link to a video where you can clearly hear the knock: 

 

 

ewheels got back to me after reaching out to leaperkim.

leaperkim are saying the bearings need to be replaced **sigh**

steve

 

[Steve Evans]

36 minutes ago, Steve Evans said:

ewheels got back to me after reaching out to leaperkim.

leaperkim are saying the bearings need to be replaced **sigh**

steve

 

if i have to replace the bearings, maybe i dont want another set of the same (ewheels will provide those to me free). 

does anyone know of higher quality bearings that will fit?

thanks,

steve

 

[Clem604]

52 minutes ago, Steve Evans said:

if i have to replace the bearings, maybe i dont want another set of the same (ewheels will provide those to me free). 

does anyone know of higher quality bearings that will fit?

thanks,

steve

 

Yes, these were posted in the Sherman S disassembly thread courtesy of @MrMonoWheel

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/134344260913?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iVkMgRf7SYS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=GddAj11wRVq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[Steve Evans]

54 minutes ago, Clem604 said:

Yes, these were posted in the Sherman S disassembly thread courtesy of @MrMonoWheel

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/134344260913?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iVkMgRf7SYS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=GddAj11wRVq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

purchased.

thankyou guys

steve

[KiwiMark]

I'm wondering if I should buy a pair of those bearings and keep them handy. My bearings are fine currently, but my wheel is batch 1 and if I did need to replace them it would definitely be handy if I already had them.

[wstuart]

20 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Since that pic I actually raised mine up a bit, the tops of the pads just go over the suspension cover and it's no issue. When I eventually get the perfect positioning I'm gonna trace and cut out the part so they sit flat.

The first picture below is my old setup.  My feet were way to far forward and the pad restricted my lean on the upper part of my leg while offering no support around my ankle.

 

The second picture is my new setup.  It's super locked in around my ankle and foot but gives me tons or room to lean.  Most importantly it centers my foot on the pedal so I actually have leverage and control of the wheel when braking.  This now feels like a completely different wheel.  It's so much more stable.  I wish I had understood this sooner.  

The leaperkim suspension covers help alot with cornering. They give my leg something smooth and uniform to slide against mid corner.  This makes cornering much more comfortable and predictable.  

Edited February 9, 2023 by wstuart

[Clem604]

36 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

I'm wondering if I should buy a pair of those bearings and keep them handy. My bearings are fine currently, but my wheel is batch 1 and if I did need to replace them it would definitely be handy if I already had them.

I did and my wheel isn't even here yet 😅. It's nice to have on hand when/if I eventually need them.

[Tasku]

I recently noticed eevees has this video production. We sure need this kind of services in every city. I would use that if ever in need. Pretty much all the info people been saying here too. Monocat has 3-part serie of winter wheelin. Covers most of the risks involved, seems to me that winter riding is at your own risk, reading between the lines on that eevees video.

In short (if you don't wanna watch): Keeping winter rides short and taking it inside after ride. Don't charge until you warmed-up the wheel several hours inside, those be the key points. There is risks, like water caused problems and bearing problems. Also very nice to see they also recommend storaging voltages to 50%. Watch from 7:12 to get the mechanics best tips.

 

Edited February 9, 2023 by Tasku

[MrMonoWheel]

4 hours ago, KiwiMark said:

I'm wondering if I should buy a pair of those bearings and keep them handy. My bearings are fine currently, but my wheel is batch 1 and if I did need to replace them it would definitely be handy if I already had them.

I didn't order the bearings till mine shat the bed because I figured mine wouldn't go out. It's almost comical how fast it happened. That being said, I still haven't actually changed them due to time constraints and I use my wheel daily for commuting. 

 

4 hours ago, wstuart said:

 

The leaperkim suspension covers help alot with cornering. They give my leg something smooth and uniform to slide against mid corner.  This makes cornering much more comfortable and predictable.  

This is EXACTLY what I was saying in my review of the covers! Having that soft consistent surface transformed the way the wheel handles for me because it gave me a uniform predicable area to contact while turning or carving. I was surprised how much of a difference it made and now I can't imagine going back.

[wstuart]

6 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

This is EXACTLY what I was saying in my review of the covers! Having that soft consistent surface transformed the way the wheel handles for me because it gave me a uniform predicable area to contact while turning or carving. I was surprised how much of a difference it made and now I can't imagine going back.

Yeah this actually surprised me.  I thought the pads were going to be about "comfort" but they sort of weren't.  They actually were a performance upgrade.  What's interesting to me is that before I put these pads on, I didn't at all realize how much the bumpy inconsistent surface at the top was catching my leg in corners.

Also I agree with you that Leaperkim should be including these pads as a stock item.  If a product enhances the performance of a wheel this much it shouldn't be an "upgrade".

[tombo]

I read somewhere that the Sherman-S could be turned off while charging. When I plug mine in, the screen comes on and when I press the power button to turn it off, it just toggles the brake light but doesn't turn off the screen/bluetooth, etc. Is there a trick to turning it off while charging?

While I've only charged it all the way once so far, when the wheel indicated it hit the max, the charger would constantly turn off and back on again. I asume thats because the internals of the wheel were draining a bit of that voltage, thus asking the charger for more juice.

[MrMonoWheel]

1 hour ago, tombo said:

I read somewhere that the Sherman-S could be turned off while charging. When I plug mine in, the screen comes on and when I press the power button to turn it off, it just toggles the brake light but doesn't turn off the screen/bluetooth, etc. Is there a trick to turning it off while charging?

While I've only charged it all the way once so far, when the wheel indicated it hit the max, the charger would constantly turn off and back on again. I asume thats because the internals of the wheel were draining a bit of that voltage, thus asking the charger for more juice.

If there's a way to turn it off while charging I'd love to know as well. Mine does the same behavior. The chargers these come with definitely aren't as "smart" as other chargers such as those from inmotion.

[Steve Evans]

1 hour ago, tombo said:

I read somewhere that the Sherman-S could be turned off while charging. When I plug mine in, the screen comes on and when I press the power button to turn it off, it just toggles the brake light but doesn't turn off the screen/bluetooth, etc. Is there a trick to turning it off while charging?

While I've only charged it all the way once so far, when the wheel indicated it hit the max, the charger would constantly turn off and back on again. I asume thats because the internals of the wheel were draining a bit of that voltage, thus asking the charger for more juice.

same for me

[Clem604]

The wait is killing me LOL. So close yet so far......

 

[MrMonoWheel]

So here's a question. When replacing bearings on an EUC, I am assuming you clean the old silicone sealant and replace with fresh. How much do you put, and how do you prevent it from squeezing out into the motor? 

[Tasku]

1 hour ago, MrMonoWheel said:

So here's a question. When replacing bearings on an EUC, I am assuming you clean the old silicone sealant and replace with fresh. How much do you put, and how do you prevent it from squeezing out into the motor? 

Rubber hammer, not metal hammer. Best usages are devices that help you push and insert the bearing(that are designed for bearing change). Guess some use pieces of wood and apply some of that pressure evenly with "tightening tools" that you use to lock items down.. for wood work and such. Some use hot air to get it in and out too, it is obviously risky.
Yes you need to clean it very well to avoid mixturing. The capacity is unique bearing but 30% was the wing it recommend. The last part is that even you buy that "marine grease" that everyone talk about, maybe check the recommend viscosity for the bearing. Like @mrelwood said earlier some lower viscosity ones in that category should be ok. (few posts back) 

I guess cause some others simply "winged it" with any product before.  Even you do it all wrong, you just lose range, mostly. It is not the bearing change that is the highest risk, but the tools or accidents you might have along the way. So be careful!

If in doubt maybe just take the motor (after you disassembled to that point) to shop that takes bearing out and fixes it for you, way cheaper than causing damage to your wheel in some poor choise of tools way.

Edited February 9, 2023 by Tasku

[KiwiMark]

I went for a very pleasant ride today, as you acclimatise to the wheel it becomes very relaxing to ride!

I'd already been to the supermarket at back, then did this ride. I still marvel at how much riding I can get in and still not drop below 50% battery. Supermarket & back followed by a >2hr ride and still 56% battery. I guess some of you guys have already been riding long range wheels, but my other wheels that I'm used to would be down very low in voltage and I'd have to be careful not to over-lean with the reduced available power.

My wheel has now done over 400km and putting on a few hundred km really does help to become comfortable on the wheel. If I finish work at a reasonable time tomorrow, I might go out for a longer ride. The following day I might be able to get a ride in, but then we are supposed to be getting a few days of absolutely horrible weather.

I'm finding the bumps I ride over feel pretty normal, so if I ride one of my other wheels over those same bumps I'll be going "bloody hell, that's nasty!". I think the suspension really does spoil you, it would be so hard to go back to only riding non-suspension wheels.

[MrMonoWheel]

9 hours ago, Tasku said:

Rubber hammer, not metal hammer. Best usages are devices that help you push and insert the bearing(that are designed for bearing change). Guess some use pieces of wood and apply some of that pressure evenly with "tightening tools" that you use to lock items down.. for wood work and such. Some use hot air to get it in and out too, it is obviously risky.
Yes you need to clean it very well to avoid mixturing. The capacity is unique bearing but 30% was the wing it recommend. The last part is that even you buy that "marine grease" that everyone talk about, maybe check the recommend viscosity for the bearing. Like @mrelwood said earlier some lower viscosity ones in that category should be ok. (few posts back) 

I guess cause some others simply "winged it" with any product before.  Even you do it all wrong, you just lose range, mostly. It is not the bearing change that is the highest risk, but the tools or accidents you might have along the way. So be careful!

If in doubt maybe just take the motor (after you disassembled to that point) to shop that takes bearing out and fixes it for you, way cheaper than causing damage to your wheel in some poor choise of tools way.

I'm not sure if my question came across correctly. I'm well versed in disassembling and working on things (been doing it for over a decade), I have all the bearing pullers, cleaning agents, etc that I need. I was just asking if there is supposed to be a silicone seal around the motor housing. 

Also, regarding the grease. Don't these SKF bearings come pre lubricated and ready to go? No one should be opening them up and greasing them.

[techyiam]

9 minutes ago, MrMonoWheel said:

there is supposed to be a silicone seal around the motor housing. 

Are you are referring to the motor side covers, which houses the bearings, where they are fastened to the inner diameter of the rim contact surfaces?

[Tasku]

3 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

I'm not sure if my question came across correctly.

Prolly not then. I live in different timezone. Zzz
 

 

3 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

I'm well versed in disassembling and working on things (been doing it for over a decade), I have all the bearing pullers, cleaning agents, etc that I need. I was just asking if there is supposed to be a silicone seal around the motor housing. 

They use silicone to seal the gaps. You need to redo it everytime the wheel is opened. It is for that extra waterproofing. It is easier to look where they had it before and then clean and redo it. You did open your wheel yourself last time, so you did not use silocone to reseal the gaps? I forget, I assume you did not open motor covers.

In some cases these devices need some air to move around, so some of the extra waterproof might make the device heatbuild quicker. Just to keep in mind, in general.

3 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

Also, regarding the grease. Don't these SKF bearings come pre lubricated and ready to go? No one should be opening them up and greasing them.

When the sizes get rare, you might need to put grease yourself. You should check where you purchased em. If from euc related store, ask there, and they ask their mechanic.

[jmsjms]

Is pedal change to other honeycomb pedals planned for any other batch releases?

[Freeforester]

1 hour ago, jmsjms said:

Is pedal change to other honeycomb pedals planned for any other batch releases?

This might not be too attractive a proposition from Leaperkim’s pov, as they’d come under pressure from those already using the batch 1 wheels to send out some to them to fit, and/or also possibly leave them holding the ‘unloved’ stock pedals, which don’t exactly fit their other models, and are thus a bit less useful to most than say, a chocolate teapot for example, though compared to older Gen unspiked pedals they are more or less ‘adequate”  to get the units out the door... We’d all like great pedals to come as standard (an area where, ironically enough, Begode have been taking notice and doing something about it, to their credit), but that only adds to the bottom line

[Mango]

22 hours ago, Clem604 said:

The wait is killing me LOL. So close yet so far......

 

My Sherman-S shipped across the Pacific Ocean, only then to get shipped across Canada from BC to Ontario, only then to be sent across Canada again to Vancouver. The wait was insane.

[Clem604]

2 minutes ago, Mango said:

My Sherman-S shipped across the Pacific Ocean, only then to get shipped across Canada from BC to Ontario, only then to be sent across Canada again to Vancouver. The wait was insane.

Did you order yours from AliExpress? At least you have it now and the fun can begin!

[Mango]

22 hours ago, MrMonoWheel said:

So here's a question. When replacing bearings on an EUC, I am assuming you clean the old silicone sealant and replace with fresh. How much do you put, and how do you prevent it from squeezing out into the motor? 

If in doubt with the grease type, just clean it out with a submersion in mineral spirits. The general guideline for how much grease is 30% but that's for dry applications of the bearing (fans, belts etc). I personally put in approx. 80-90% grease volume since the bearing housing comes in contact with moisture.